Passat (B5) :: 2001 - What Is The Safe Maximum RPM
Jun 25, 2006
I am new to tuning vdubs i just got chipped and i am wondering what the max safe rpm is i am just curious cause when driving hard i keep it below the factory tachs redline (6000 or 6500 rpm i think) and i'd like to know how hard i can push her. I want to go with some friends to a drag strip so i can time in and have something to compare to for when i am done dropping cash into my car..
'01 Passat 1.8t 5 speed manual APR 91 octane chip
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What is the maximum safe tire pressure with 19" wheels? I don't mean cold pressure. I mean maximum pressure. My rears showed 50psi on the TPMS after 20 min of driving. When I got home and measured them, they were 50.5/50psi. It's been roughly 110 degrees over the past week. It is impossible to get a true cold tire reading because it doesn't go below 85 degrees these days. So... am I well inside a safe zone at 50?
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I got a 99 B.5 Passat..
a couple days ago.. I put water into the car cause the light came on. The next day the check engine light appeared. I drove the car and parked it for a few hours..
When I went back into the car the check engine light still appeared.. And not only that it went into SAFE MODE with all lights highlighted... PRND432..
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OK, I have another question. How do I safely remove the steering wheel from my '99 Passat? I have never removed a wheel with an airbag and wouldn't like to experience one blowing up in my face. I have a steering wheel removal kit that works on most cars. Hopefully I won't need and proprietary VW tools for this. I need to replace my turn-signal arm and steering column cover.
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I unhooked the battery for about an hour. I hooked it back up. I started the car put the selector into drive. CLUNK. Disengaged the parking brake. Drove. It turns out when I shifted to D it went straight to third and stayed there. I turned off the car, restarted it. Still stuck in third. Drove a few miles. Restarted it. No more issues. My guess the tranny went into safe mode, but why?
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got in the car this morning, it revved a little high and now sounds like an air pump is constantly going. You don't hear it as much when you drive but when stopped and especially when you open the hood, its like a compressor is going. It seems to be coming from the back end of the air intake tubing...on the passenger side, not near the intake itself.
[URL]
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2001 Accent, 1.5L Automatic with OD, 263,000 km
Transmission goes into Fail Safe Mode but the CEL does not light up and code reader shows no codes. Shifts fine in town,1-2-3-4...4-3-2-1, but on highway when going up inclines (steep), transmission downshifts from Overdrive into 3rd,as i press the accelerator it will downshift into 2nd (as normal), until i reach the top of the incline (3500-4000 rpm) but then as the car levels out on the highway, it will shift back and forth between overdrive and 3rd, (jerky shifting) then finally goes into Fail safe mode, 3000 rpm at 80-90 km/h. Once I shut the car off for a few minutes, the transmission is fine and shifts normally. Fluid levels are good. Why the CEL is not giving code?
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As part of writing up [URL] ....., can a Gen 3 owner w/some means of monitoring ICE RPM (e.g. ScanGauge II, Torque app, tach, etc.) What's the max speed you can travel at and still have ICE RPM at 0? I'm not asking about the max speed for EV mode.
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The dash brightness dimmer pot. The roller doesn't have much tactile feedback or resistance, so when I rolled it just beyond maximum brightness, the dash lights flickered and went out. [Of course this could also be a feature I'm not aware of... ] Fortunately, dash lights came back on when reducing from max. Best to just find a comfortable setting below max brightness and leave it alone. - IMHO.
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I had the opportunity to test my mother's 2012 non-GT Elantra automatic. In auto mode when I floored it, it shifted from 1st to 2nd at around 6,000RPM so it shifted too soon. I didn't try it in manual mode.
I have a feeling in manual mode, if I have it set to '1' and I continue to floor it , it won't reduce power at some point (say 6100RPM), but rather will automatically shift up for me?
What are the RPM points that it'll shift from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd when flooring it both in manual and auto mode? I hope there is a way for it to not shift until it reaches it's peak HP at 6,500RPM, if not the 6,750RPM redline at each gear change.
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There might have been an inch of travel left in the rear suspension. This was approximately 1,300 pounds, including me.
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I just did my 60k km service at dealer. And in the next morning, I found out that they pour too much G12 coolant into the reservoir. It is way more above the maximum line. I have booked another service appointment on next monday, but I am just wondering if the car still safe to drive?
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We got rid of our run flats and bought new tires recommended here. We have a 2003 SC430 and the tires say max pressure 51lbs... It's been a while for us so we are not sure what level to fill them at. Do we do the recommended max? Or is there a better option? We used to live in New England and we now reside in Atlanta so we didn't know if the climate difference would be a factor.
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Vehicle has 53000 miles. Check engine light all of sudden came on and the car reduced to 40ish miles per hour and would not exceed it. when parked the vehicle will only go to 3500RPM and then the needle will drop back down. No visible signs of fluids anywhere or any smoke. No sure where to start to see what the issue is.
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My sis drove the Phaeton yesterday and we had to go through some nerve-wrecking parking. The gaps were only a few milimetres across but luckily we made it through the lot in the end. Anyway, we had to do a lot of full steering turns (that is, when the wheel is turned to its maximum) and there's a worrying clicking sound that goes on until the steering is turned back from its maximum radius. Is it a problem or just a minor thing?
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