Passat (B5) :: 2001 VR6 - Low Oil Level Now High Idle
Jun 26, 2011
My buddy just bought a vr6 2001 and it has a problem! the previous owner said it had an oil leak and didn't notice it until it started ticking! ok not a big deal! we changed what was left of the oil with semi synthetic 5w20, and put a new filter on it! figured out that the oil was leaking out of the filter gasket , how he didn't notice is beyond me! now the ticking has gotten quiet BUT now it idles high! there is now CEL and the previous owner said it did not do it before the ticking! so my question is how did running low on oil, and POSSIBLY messing up a lifter or two cause it to be idling high? It only idles high in park between 1 and 2000 rpm!
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I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
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I have a saturn sc1 2001 and the idle is pretty high (2000rpm) what could be the problem ? i already cleaned the IAC ...
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Even on a warm day, when I "cold start" the car....the revs hang high for a long time....at least a good minute or two. This is my first PZEV(VW) engine though--CPRA--so I'm assuming it's for the emissions? With the intake & exhaust I have on...it's obviously A LOT more noticable.
For the first 10-15 seconds, there is a HUGE sucking sound for the SAI pump and then that shuts off....but then it still screams along at 1,200-1,500 RPM's for another minute or two until it'll FINALLY settle down to idle.
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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2002 Elantra idles high, 2.5 rpm, just when I start it up in the morning. The second I put brake on and put it into gear, it settles down and doesn't do it again until the next morning.
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My 2001 Suburban, 1500, 5.3L, 2WD with 164k miles, has a problem with high idle and delayed shifting. The high idle occurs when the vehicle has been driven around for awhile. When I start it up, even when already warm, idle is normal (~600 rpm). After some time, however, it idles at 900 to 1100 rpm. The delayed shifting happens right away--almost like I have the tow/haul mode turned on.
I have cleaned out the idle air port, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the idle air control valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the engine temperature sensor, and unhooked the battery to reset things. It still idles high.
I first noticed this a few weeks ago when the battery died. After I put in the new battery, the idle was very low. So I cleaned out the idle air port and valve. Then it was high. I drove it around for a few days like that and then started replacing stuff, to no avail--still high. I also cleaned around the throttle plate.
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Came to a stop at a loooooooong light the other afternoon. I popped the AT into neutral, and the engine idle rose to around 2000 RPM, dropped to about 1500, then started cycling in that range. CEL also showed up.
Now, whenever the transmission is in either P or N, if I blip the throttle to bring the RPMs into that range (1500-2000), it stays in that range and cycles up to 2000, drops to 1500, wash, rinse, repeat. Blipping the throttle above 2000 does not change this behavior... as soon as the RPMs drop back to 1500, zoom it goes, right back to 2000.
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I bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
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The other day when it was raining out my car started idling below 1,000RPM/running rough. I was thinking it might be the coils, so I changed those, cleaned out my TB (Throttle Body), did a TB alignment (with VAG-COM) and now my car is idling at 1,200RPM and jumping up to about 1,600-1,800RPM, like I'm constantly revving it. I even swapped out my whole TB from my A4 and it still does it! If I disconnect the throttle position sensor it seems to idle normal.
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When I start my car now, it will idle up to about 1900 rpm, then idle down from there (even when engine is warm!). Also, I drove about 30 minutes, and a guy in a lancer decided he wanted to race me, but it seemed like I wasn't getting all the power I should! I tested this theory in an empty parking lot, where I found that my tires wouldn't brake free even at high RPM with stage1. This has never happened before, and I am a little worried at this point. My mod list is in my cig below in case your wondering, of if that makes a difference. What should I look for.
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2004 2.4l engine has high idle speed aprrox. 1000rpm.
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My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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The notorious 3.6 high idle has haunted me for over a year now. When it first started happening, I thought it was a temporary thing. It has been happening for a year now and the stealership has not been able to diagnose it. It has started happening more frequently now, no matter the weather. The idle overall is just rough. I place the car in neutral sometimes at a red light because the vibration and idel is so rough. The transmission is sluggish, and as i come to a stop sometimes, i can feel the rough downshifts it makes from gear to gear. And just today, after I picked up the car from the dealership from a failed diagnosis of the high rev problem, my parking sensors stopped working. When the system turns on(car in Reverse), there is a steady beep even while there is nothing behind me. Even as the car is moving(below 10mph) the car makes three beeps, every five seconds or so. I do not know what to do. I have a feeling that even if I take it to a different stealership, I will get the same results.
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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I have replaced a head gasket on my 2001 civic LX recently. I have drain the coolant and put it back on again. Now I have idle issues, the car starts fine with high RPM (because it is cold) about 5 min latter the RPM changes, it revs low and high (about 2000 rpm) when it should be idling normally. I have taken the radiator cap (before i start the engine) and run it a while with the cap off to purge any air pockets, no luck. Another thing I have realized that there is a pressure build up in the upper and lower radiator hoses when it is running with the radiator cap on. How to fix this problem?
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I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
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I just changed my fuel filter and now I am having issues with the idle/accelator. When I get the car going to a speed of 40mph for example, I let off the gas and the speed barely drops. Then when I went down a side street about 20 mph, I let off the gas and the car just kept going. The idle was initally high, but then dropped down to it's normal 800rpm.
The only thing I touched under the hood was releasing the pressure from the fuel pressure regulator before the fuel filter change. I just removed the idle control unit and cleaned it but that didn't work.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix GT/3.8L
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My '01 recently seized up and a buddy determined it was the AC pump. Replaced the belt with the bypass version. A month later, I moved across the state to Iowa. A couple weeks into living here I turned the truck on and it was idling really high (about 2500-3000) but would settle down to around 1100 when put in gear. However, shifting into gear is causing a progressively worse "jump" into gear. Hadn't really had the money or the time to take it in so I let it mostly sit unless I absolutely needed the truck.
Today, the idle is still high and does seem to cycle a bit in that it will rev up close to 3000 then settle back down around 2200 or so and then rev back up again and so on. I backed it down the drive into the sun for a little warmth and it darn near jumped a foot when I shifted. I turned the heater on defrost so I could clear the windshield and absolutely nothing came out.
I can't get into a garage for a few days to get it hooked up for diagnostics. So I thought I'd try here. My research leads me to think part of my problem may be a vacuum leak and/or maybe a sensor somewhere.
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A buddy of mine has a late 2000 passat 2.8. He recently developed a bad knocking at higher RPM's. I took a look at it and it is coming from the bottom end of the motor (rod bearing, crank bearing?) He has no loss of power and the knock is not there at idle.
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