Passat (B5) :: 2001 V6 Clutch Doesn't Start To Grab Until Almost All The Way Up
Jan 8, 2007
2001 V6 passat. the clutch doesn't start to grab until it is almost all the way up. there is maybe 1/2 inch of pedal travel where the clutch is actually grabbing. how much travel should there be when the clutch is actually grabbing?
This is a hydraulic clutch setup, right? so i was thinking best case scenario, it needs fluid or to be bled for air, worst is a new slave cylinder. 100K miles on it, engine ran strong and the clutch didn't slip at all.
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My truck doesn't want to go grab parking!! The shifter has a lot of play, Every time I go to park my truck I have to forcefully hold the shifter up into parking so it can grab. I had times when the shifter its in parking and it will still move, like I've gotten out and pushed it and it moves.
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Here's my problem, when I'm on a hill and I engage first and let go of the clutch the car revs but the clutch doesn't grip tight. It's slow to engage but during regular driving my clutch is fine. My only problem is on hills.
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I recently got new brake pads put on (front and back) and while they work ok there is no grab in the brakes like there used to be when they were new. They are quieter than the old ones. Do they have to break-in? Should I have gotten the rotors replaced too?
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2.4L. Starter cranks but engine doesn't start. Per other forums I have changed the crank sensor and cam sensor, spark plugs. No change. I went back and did Volt meter test on the new sensors: Crank sensor showed 13 volt on red wire, 0 and 5 volt while cranking on blue wire. Cam sensor had 13 volt on red wire and 13 volt on signal wire while cranking. Was expecting alternating 0-5 volt. Could I have a bad ECM?
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I bought a new battery for my passat 2001 1.8t, installed it last night car turned on fine. Today turned on fine again I took a ride to the store when I came back the car did not turn on. I go a jump nothing, but the battery had plenty of juice. Lights, radio everything turns on. When I turn the key it doesn't crank at all, and all the dash lights come on. I noticed the alarm does not sound when I manually lock the door. I bought a battery for my keyless remote and noticed the alarm doesn't turn on that way either, nor do the locks function with the remote. Could it possibly have to do with the alarm being deactivated?
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My 2002 Elantra GLS seems to have some sort of heat related problem.
I live in Arizona, where temperatures routinely reach well over 100. In the morning my car will start fine, after driving it for some time and parking somewhere, if I try and start the car within a couple hours of driving it, it will crank but not start. Lifting the hood to cool it seems to expedite this to get it started.
I had a mechanic friend of mine hook up his OBD computer at his shop, nothing out of the ordinary. He suspected either a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. No check engine light, nothing out of the ordinary on his computer check. I removed spark plug wires for cylinders 1 and 4 and I have spark while cranking when it fails to start. My mechanic friend said the spark would rule out a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold, and it has no effect. The battery has been replaced within the last two months, connectors are new as well.
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I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
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My '07 Passat 3.6L with 107k miles.
It's a short story luckily haha. Every single time I refuel the car, I have to hold the key in the start position for about 10 seconds before the car actually starts running. This ONLY happens when the car has just been refueled. It does manage to start every time but only after the starter has been cranking for about 10 seconds.
I'm thinking of ordering a new fuel filter at the same time I order some maintenance parts for my .:R32 but I don't think the fuel filter is the issue. I'm also going to order new spark plugs soon but unfortunately they're not available from the place I'm ordering the other parts from.
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Ok, quick info on my car, 2006 2.0t, 76k miles. I'm all caught up on recalls, and just replaced the ignition coils and spark plugs last week.
Anyway this has been happening for a few months now. Whenever I add fuel to the car (1 gal or a full tank and everything in between) It won't start immediately after. It almost acts flooded at first, just chugs a few times, I have to attempt to start it 2 or 3 times then it'll run rough for 3-4 seconds and then be all fine. No other issues till the next time I fuel up. I do have a light on throwing a code about my cooling system but I need to get someone with a vag con to read it..
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Need to replace the clutch on my wife's 2001 AWM. Its for her, no mod's, driven daily to work etc. I just want a stock style replacement that will last as long as the original (165k). Should I go with the stock replacement from Sachs or go with one of the Valeo style dual mass conversions? Does my car even have a dual mass? Can the OEM flywheels be resurfaced/turned?
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I have a 1999 4DR V6 Passat and today was not my day. I got to work around 8am this morning, and parked. Forgot my window was down, so I turned the ignition on to roll up the driver's side window like normal, and the window does not go up. In fact, no window will go up or down. I have full power, from what I can tell. All lights work, radio works, AC works, etc... Door locks and my alarm doesn't work either.
This also boggled my mind; the car wont start?!? The car won't even crank. It doesn't even want to try to start. This all happened at the same time. What could have happened? The battery has 12.8 volts and the car drove fine on the 1 hour commute. I disconnected the battery and reconnected hoping to reset anything that may have happened. But that didn't work.
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Multi function goes off and ready light doesn't come on when turn key to start.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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2001 6.8 Ex wouldn't start again today Get a loud click but starter doesn't turn over. Yesterday jumped it, took it to Advance where they checked battery and alternator; both checked out great. To start it this morning I ran my negative jumper from battery to engine block and it fired up It's about 12 degrees out and was same yesterday. Thinking dirty/bad ground somewhere ? Do I just start following the negative cable everywhere it goes or am I missing something here No garage and it is chilly.
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What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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I recently purchased a used 2001 Chevy Blazer with a manual transmission. In order to start it, I have to push very hard on the clutch, almost through the floor. Is there some type of adjustment to make starting a little easier? Also, when I push on the parking brake, it also goes right to the floor and seems like it barely engages.
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My wife and I drove our 1998 BMW Z3 from Kapoho, the easternmost point of the big island of Hawaii to volcanoes national Park. This is about a 30 mile drive and you're going from sea level to 4000 feet. We were going up there to meet some friends driving over from Kona to tour the national Park. By the way these friends are from Boston and the husband and I went to school together at Michigan Tech in the 60s. Anyway we meet them in their jeep and tour around the park with them because our car is only two seater. When we're done we are going to drive back down to our house and spend the night. I purposely left the gas go way down in the tank of the Z3 in order to fill it up with ethanol free gas because we don't drive this car much and it sits a lot.
I asked my wife if she would like to drive the Z3 with the other couples wife while I drove their jeep with my friend her husband. We had agreed to stop at a glassblowing shop on the way down the hill called 2400°F. When we stopped there my wife explained that she had a really hard time shifting is the Z3 and when I drive it the rest of the way home, I had a hard time shifting, it felt like I couldn't really disengage the clutch completely and it was hard to get into first and reverse gear. All the time the low gaslight is now on. I get to the only station that sells ethanol free gas and fill it up. Of course the gas light warning light is off now but now it now shifts perfectly?????. It drives home fine all the rest of the way. What is going? How or why does the gas warning light being on make it hard to disengage the clutch?
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My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
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AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
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On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
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