Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Unknown Vibration After Front Axle Replacement?
Oct 16, 2012
I have a 2001 b5.5 passat sedan i recently picked up for cheap. The car was on cut springs and blown struts. I just installed JOM blue Line coilovers on it to solve the suspension problem. While i was doing this i realized both the cv boots were torn and needed replacing. I replaced the axles. The passat is a 1.8t with tip tronic trans. After i did the axles when i put the car in drive and let it idle i get a fairly noticeable vibration through out the car. It does not happen while driving or while in neutral. This did not happen before i did the axles. It doesnt make much sense to me?
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2002 Subaru-Passenger side axle replaced due to leak. Afterwards, car in drive, pulling up to a stop car vibrates, BUT if I let the car roll forward a bit it usually stops. My mechanic has played with the idle but doesn't seem to be fixing the problem.
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I just put a sbc (small block chevy) in my 91 s10. i am now getting a vibration while im in park. You dont feel it until you push the gas. i just replaced the flexplate and it got a little better but it still vibrates.
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I have an 04 Limited, 6.0 PSD, 4x4 which I need to replace the front inner axle seals, the right side is leaking out the shaft. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on how it is done but would like to get some first hand knowledge and recommendations.
First, how important is it to check the backlash before beginning the removal of the gear assembly? Do I need to remove the pinion gear as well or just the gear assembly?
How difficult is it to get everything back on place once the seals are replaced? I have not done this type of repair before and am concerned I might miss something.
I am planning to replace all the ball joints at this time also, this was the primary reason for this maintenance in the first place.
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My 2013 Passat 2.5L auto transmission needs to have the right (passenger) CV Axle Shaft replaced. It has 76k miles and has developed a clicking noise when making sharpish left hand turns. I listen to the stereo a little louder these days, but in the back of my mind, I know it's got to be fixed.
I did a search on this forum, but didn't see any direct detailed info on DYI replacement. It seems pretty simple, but the previous Passat models used bolts for the axle-transmission connection. The B7 uses a splined shaft into the tranny with no bolts. Any tricks for removing it from the tranny or fitting back into the tranny?
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Recent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
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I had my passenger side cv axle replaced two months ago 2002 camry xle 110k miles for the ABS broken ring. After that start to here a shuddering intermittent noise from the front of the car more clear on turning the steering wheel, sometimes I here a metal on metal noise on bumps, axle was a brand new one and a press garage pressed the bracket on it..
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MK4/3 having axle binding problems. I installed coilovers on my wagon and when i went for a test drive i heard clunk and the car vibrates under load. Now I know the engine mount and trans mount are shot so there's a big possibility that it's causing the axle to bind.
There's no load and the car was of the ground so it doesn't vibrate that much, but if you take a close look at the boots you can see that it's not rotating evenly.
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I own a 1999 F250 super duty and have the front end apart to service the u joints , I noticed that i have bad axle stub needle bearings on one side. I was wondering what is involved in taking those out and replacing them, it looks like they are held in place with some type of spanner nut. My next question :Would it be worth the cost just to replace the whole bearing hub assembly? The truck has 134000 miles on it.
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I thought that my front wheel bearing was bad but I removed it and it seems fine. The issue that I'm having is a continous vibration (noise) in the left front that gets worse with speed.The half shaft makes a noise at the point where the half shaft meets the steering knuckle and when I turn the shaft at the outer splines, the grinding noise is present. My question is, is the entire half shaft supposed to turn, even the outer diameter of it that would enter the steering knuckle, or is the shaft supposed to turn inside of that outer diameter? I hope I was able to explain my problem clearly/
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I just put my steel wheels on for the winter and noticed that my '07 Passat doesn't have dust caps over the driveshaft bolt on the front wheels. Is this normal? Looks kind of funny with the bolt exposed. The rears did have a dust cap on them.
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I just bought a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS, yesterday. 167k. Some faded paint on top areas, dead battery & in need of driver's front CV joint axle i believe, clicks when going around corners. Starts without hesitation, no smoke, no ticking, very clean and has only had 1 owner.
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I had a ripped drivers side CV boot and had my indy replace the axle with a new Raxle. ~200 miles after the replacement the wheel bearing on that side went south. I shugged it off and had it replaced. Well, after 200 miles on the new bearing, it has also failed (100 miles from home). I gotta believe the 2 bearing fails are related to the new axle, but I don't understand how!
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2001 F150 SCAB with 74,000 miles. There seems to be a whistling noise coming from the front axle. It is definately a rolling noise. I can shift into neutral and put it in 4H and still have the noise. Brakes are good, tires are fair... I just rotated my tires (criss-crossed front to back) also sprayed all of my boots with silicone spray. Still has a whistling metal to metal bearing sound. When I have the front jacked up and spin the wheels, there seems to be a decent drag turning by hand. I don't remember having much of a drag before.
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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I have a 2001 f250 7.3 4x4 today I locked the hubs, put it in 4 low and got threw some mud to go hunting fine. got back out of the woods and took it out of 4x4 unlocked hubs and went in reverse 30 yards.. Now when i drive it makes a weird sound like a rubbing sound near the front axle. What this is?
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We were using my 2001 7.3 4x4 (automatic, manual lock outs) in 4 low yesterday on dry pavement in an attempt to pull out the remainder of a 6x6 post in concrete. We were working her pretty hard alternating directions of pulling. At one point we heard a loud bang (see also: thud; pop; etc). It seemed at that point that the front axle was no longer functioning in 4wd. We still had the low gearing feel, but at one point I noticed my rear tires trying to slip on the driveway, but fronts didn't appear to be pulling anymore.
Long story short, came in, went to bed, went out this morning and thought I'd jack up the front end and roll the tires in both 'free' and 'lock' to see if the universal joints (yokes?) behind each wheel were spinning or not, depending on whether free or locked in. I noticed on the passenger side a few drops of a clear/light colored fluid that had dripped from behind the dust cover that isn't functioning any longer. The joints worked as they should, based on if it was locked in or not.
I decided to go ahead and put the back axle on jackstands as well and see how it was working when "driving". When in 2wd, rear worked, front was stationary, as it should be. when in 4high, rear spun, front driver spun erratically, nothing from passenger front (where I had seen drip). 4low was same thing - erratic on driver side, at best.
So I know I have front axle/transfer case issues. The question is, with the drip (smells like grease, so I'm assuming its gear oil?) would I be safe to drive it a few days with hubs in free position? I don't want all of the fluid leaking out when I'm driving down the road. I use the truck for work and wouldn't be able to be without it until later in the week or next week. But I also don't want to drive it if it will just make my predicament worse.
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I have a '01 F250 with a frozen u-joint in the driver side front axle. My question is can I put it together without the axle and drive it?
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One of my Parking lights, the orange ones in the corner of the headlights burnt out, I want to get rid of the other orange one and just put clear lights in there, i dont like the look of the orange. How to access those lights so i can change them out??
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Need to replace the front parking light? Can't figure out how to get to it or how it comes out.
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Just picked up an 01 4x4 v10 a few weeks ago. I have a severe vibration that occurs when I hit a bump at highway speeds. The vibration cannot be felt in the steering, and I must come to a complete stop to cure it. There is a rattle, consistent with rotation coming from the passenger front tire. It seems to get louder the longer the I drive it, Going away and starting over after the truck has sat for a few minutes. I have had the truck on a lift and there is no play in ball joints or tie rods. I have recently replaced the sway bar end links. When this started I had the front tires balanced to make sure that's not the issue.
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