Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Sway Bar Leaking?
Jan 18, 2010
2001 B5 wagon 4 motion V6, I have an engine oil leak dripping from the left side sway bar link, seriously I can't see were it comes from, I cleaned the sway bar and link with brake cleaner yesterday and today once again this drop on the edge of the link?? There is no oil any where else from above? I think my rear cam tensioners are leaking also since the oil in burning on the exhaust and it smells inside but i don't see any leak in the back.
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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I took it to the stealership to get the alternator and some vac. lines replaced all under an extended warranty. They informed me that both valve cover gaskets and right side cam adjuster gaskets are leaking. By no means am I a mechanic or close to but I am trying to get this stuff done as cheap as possible so I am going to try to tackle this myself.
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Another month and another problem to be resolved. Here goes: The 2001 Passat 1.8T has had a hard life in the past year. The specifics are listed in previous posts. Most recently, the radiator was replaced because the engine was overheating again. The car has been leaking fluid ever since but it is not radiator fluid. Yesterday, I took a look at the oil and found tan gunk mixed in with the oil. I must admit that I had concerns after the fact about the shop that did the last oil change. Is it possible for mechanic to screw up the head gasket while replacing the radiator? It was fine before the repair. Is there another source to look for the seepage into the oil? Basically, the question is - Is the car destined for the graveyard because of this?
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I did change my motor mounts this weekend but when I tried to remove the sway bar,one of the nuts jammed on the bolt. Let me explain:The nut unscrewed well until the lasts mm, and then, the bolt head came loose, so it was spining freely with no way to remove it but cutting it, the bolt seems to be BUILT IN the alum. bracket that supports the engine mount. Question: can I change this bolt or is it really built in the bracket? I searched on ETKA but it just shows the nut and I can't find the bolt that I need.
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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I have a friend with an 01 f250 super duty who needs to replace sway bar bushings.
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I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
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what does the front and rear sway bars do? how about the front lower tie bars? are they worth getting? i saw them on sale and i wasn't sure exactly what they did.
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Mighty afraid evaporator is leaking. Is it a much difficult to replace as all other vehicles? Does dash have to come out to fix?
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I have a 01 classic for 1yr My 01 looks new at 154000 miles lots of parts replaced before purchased and after I replaced 12 volt and inverter pump. Looks like evaporator core leak.
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I have a 2001 silverado 5.3, I have a stream of transmission fluid leaking down from the top of my transmission, I cant see the top of the tranny so I don't know if its a hose or what, but oil is everywhere, what was the diagnosis. It was fine yesterday no problem, and now once i start it up about couple mins fluid just leaking.
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Not sure whats going on with it, but just today i checked my oil and it was bone dry so i put some in, then I noticed it leaking off the oil pan. I don't know if its coming from the oi pan or if from somewhere else. Also I've lost power had a lot of codes for too lean of air and misfires in 3 cylinders. When I accelerate I hear what sounds like a lot of air either being sucked in or let out. Also I replaced the maf cause, I saw that a lot of people fixed similar issues by changing or cleaning the maf.
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My 2004 Santa Fe seems to be leaking oil only when I turn on the vehicle. I don't see any oil under the vehicle, however, I see white smoke coming out mostly from under the vehicle on the passenger side and I can smell the oil inside the cabin. I haven't experienced any power loss. How to better diagnose the problem?
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I just upgraded to Unitronic stage 2, and added 3" downpipe. I'm getting oil leaking in the engine bay (of course burning as well). could this be a bad pcv or dv? Anyway to tell which one this might be? No warning lights and car is running fine. trying to decide whether to return to tuner or go to dealership.
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I had an engine oil leak, took it to dealer and was told filter housing is broken, I bought a new housing (part#06D115408B) replaced it but the oil is still leaking from the housing. I feel like it might be the part where the housing fits in the engine.
Also whenever I buy filter it comes with a gasket and an o-ring. I only replace the gasket in the housing and have never used the o-ring. Is the leak because of that? if the o-ring should be used, where does it go?
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So i have a 01 LS and i love it so much. Ive only had it for 5months and since the 3rd month ive been having some overheating problems. Ive replaced the coolant reservoir it drove fine for about 3weeks then started to run hot again and leak coolant out the reservoir cap so i replaced that. Still ran hot.. so my brother got some air pockets out of the system but, it still ran hot. So i replaced the t-stat. After replacing that it did fine for a few days then started to run hot again. This time it seem to run hot one day and not the next until one day it ran hot constantly and steam would come from the reservoir and coolant would leak from under the car (behind front drivers side wheel.).
So when it leak i would check the overflow tank sometimes it will be full and sometimes not. When it wasn't full I would refill it until i ran ran out of antifreeze. Well i parked it after it leaked out the last of antifreeze that was in tank. So a few days later i got some antifreeze that was given to me by my brother which was red/orange all purpose antifreeze. I filled the tank up as it was dry and had leaked out all the green antifreeze. I started the car and let it run. It ran for about 20min without getting hot quickly like it usually do, air worked great but hea not so great.
Then I started seeing steam come from reservoir tank which was full of red coolant then its started leaking GREEN coolant instead of the red i filled the tank up with. Also the temp gauge never went to H while it did all of this. And the antifreeze drip from like 4 or 5 different places behind my left front wheel. Its a v8 3.9 engine.
I know one day i checked my coolant after it ran hot one day and it was low so i filled it up with water and forgot to put cap back on and i hopped on freeway. Soon as i got off it started smoking really bad i pull over and the coolant was boiling which i also forgot to mention. Thats another thing it has been doing. But the smoke came from the coolant boiling in tank and since i forgot to put cap on the smoke came out freely from tank. Could this have caused a problem. Although my car was running hot with coolant boiling in reservoir way before i did that and even after.
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I have had my 2001 Alero since it was brand new off the lot. It has been a strong running car. It has had done work on it, most recently the mechanic I'm using has replaced the intake gasket, thermostat, hoses, and coolant reservoir because of the coolant leaking. After all that still having problems with the coolant leaking (but apparently not mixing in to the oil)....I've just been putting water in and I have to stop after driving about 10 minutes to refill the reservoir.
The mechanic was going to replace the cooling fans because he said they weren't working but then he hooked up a sensor machine and there were no issues, so he ended up replacing the radiator because he thought there might be a blockage causing the water to boil back up into the reservoir, and the car overheating. The car drives great, but after about 10 minutes there is a type of sputtering. The mechanic is saying that he has replaced everything that can be replaced in the cooling system and that he thinks the head gaskets are bad.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE with 160,000 miles. I took my car in for an overheating problem yesterday after I noticed the coolant was leaking out of my car. I needed a simple hose repair to fix the leak problem, but now they want to replace the temperature gauge because they say that it is still running hot due to: "temperature gauge is stuck and not letting the cold water in." He said that he fixed the hose and it is blowing the cool air to the motor, so the only problem could be the temperature gauge.
Within the past year, I replaced the radiator and hoses. He is saying the temperature gauge + labor would amount to around $300. The car is probably worth around $2250 for a dealer trade-in. I am planning on trading-in the Pathfinder towards the purchase of new one once I am able to present it to the dealer in workable condition. What to do?
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Ford Windstar 2001. Auto transmission oil leaking
What I have done : Refill and observed what happen, leaking still. I changed the gasket & filter. The leaking persists.
I found bulletin service about water entering, causing ECM to give wrong measuring stick level. I fixed, according to bulletin TSB 14-06-10. It is leaking still.
There is another bulletin about the same problem: TBS 05-14-5. This bulletin is about the transaxle vent being obstructed.It is leaking a lot of oil.
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a rear sliding window. This is an extended cab. Whenever it rains, there are a couple of leaks from the top of the window leaking onto the rear bench. I just purchased the truck. So do I have any repair tips? May be worn out weatherstripping?
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