Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Resonant Vibration At Speed Noticeable At 80km/h And Above
Jan 15, 2012
I have an 01 passat and when I was coming home one night my car has gone over a pot hole or hit something. I checked the car immediately but couldn't see anything wrong. But as I been driving it there is a resonant vibration in the car that becomes noticeable at 80km/h and above. At low speeds it feels normal. But once I get up to speed I get this vibration and its not a side to side vibration just a constant shaking. Sort if like if I were going over a a road that had very very small bumps. My friend had a look at it and thinks that one of the tires are done. But he's not really sure. What may be causing it?
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I have an 01 passat and when I was coming home one night my car has gone over a pot hole or hit something. I checked the car immediately but couldn't see anything wrong. But as I been driving it there is a resonant vibration in the car that becomes noticeable at 80km/h and above. At low speeds it feels normal. But once I get up to speed I get this vibration and its not a side to side vibration just a constant shaking. Sort if like if I were going over a a road that had very very small bumps. My friend had a look at it and thinks that one of the tires are done. But he's not really sure. What may be causing it?
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So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
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I'm not sure if this is a general FWD car problem or a Prius problem but a week ago I noticed a loud, and reasonably pure, tone that seems to be coming from the front of my '05 Prius at highway speed I don't believe it is tire, alignment, or road noise The car knows that something is wrong because it occationally throws some error lights but refuses to reveal the specific code My current thought is drive shaft, axle, CV joint, or similar but I don't know if that can turn on the error lights Any thoughts? Could I have two independent issues?
The car has 157k miles and was in two minor accidents before I got it One required a rear bumper replacement, the other they had to pop out a dent from the front driver's side quarter panel The records do not indicate that any other parts were damaged I have owned the car for 25k miles
Error lights: A few days after the noise started and 30 minutes into my morning commute while driving at highway speed up a hill (20kW from the ICE) I got the big red triangle of doom, ((!)), VSC, and the mark on the red car on the MFD. Aside from the lights the car appeared to drive normally I checked the voltage on the MFD less than a minute after the lights came on and it showed 14.1V The MIL light was not lit, and the Torque app on my android was not able to pull a DTC but was able to clear the error and consequently turn off the warning lights
The next day the same warning lights popped up again and at the end of the commute I used a paperclip to connect pin 4 and 13 on the OBD port in an attempt to read the code When I turned the car on with the two pins shorted the red triangle lit but the ABS, ((!)), and VSC lights all blinked at 2 Hz indicating their systems were normal After turning the car on and off four times the red triangle went away
The error lights have now popped up four times, each time after more than 30 minutes of driving I have also had several trips longer than an hour where the lights did not come on
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I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
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Vibration in my 2014 Prius v (lowercase for the Prius v wagon, not an uppercase) Three. It happens at all speeds but is most noticeable between 68-72 mph. It is felt throughout the car. I am about to go to arbitration with the state (Florida). I had a Lemon Law arbitration hearing with the Toyota sponsored program (NCDS), and the claim was denied. He said he could feel the vibration but it was normal vibration for highway speed. It was quite obvious he knew the Toyota reps too.
Toyota's solution to the issue at the "final fix" attempt was to install new Michelin tires and Road Force them. After getting the car back, I also found they had lowered the PSI in the tires to dampen the vibration but can't prove it. I put the PSI up to what is printed on the door and the vibration came back and got much worse after the tires were rotated.
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When the car is idling or running in low speed when i power up or down the windows the car begins to vibrate. Mazda 626 year 2001.....
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I bought a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L AWD about 5-6 months ago. It has close to 120,000 miles and has a terrible vibration at highway speeds. It starts around 55-60mph and gets increasingly worse as speed increases. The steering wheel originally vibrated quite violently, but after changing the "front axles" it resolved only the vibration in the steering wheel
I took it to a local shop we trust, they changed the "front axles", all spark plugs, ignition coils, timing belt, transmission fluid change, and a o2 sensor.
I changed out a serpentine belt, tensioner, and idler pulley (due to a squeak), another o2 sensor, and tried to change the transfer case + rear differentials fluid. I couldn't change them because the fill plug was very stuck... we used a propane torch and a large socket wrench.
Anyways, after the front axles were replaced, the steering wheel got significantly better, there is however some vibration through it. After they were replaced it did not fix the vibration shaking the whole car. I've noticed that when you let your foot off the accelerator all the way, the vibration stops. When you step on the accelerator again it starts shaking very bad, and then begins to get slightly better. The vibration has a rhythmic timing to it. It seems like it pulsates stronger, then softer every 1/2 second or so
Also I have had the wheels balanced 3 times. I doubt it's the tires, unless a tire is out of round. My rotors also do not seem to be warped. When I brake, there is no shaking/shimmying. I was wondering if it could be the engine mounts? This vibration is very annoying, since I have to drive long trips sometimes. Other than this problem I like this car and would love to see it fixed.
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The other day while putting on some highway miles on a smooth road I experienced some new vibrations. Not good vibrations, unfortunately. She is an 02 Leg Wagon with 115,000 miles. The vibration was low amplitude and relatively high frequency and was most noticeable at 65 mph or above. Although pronounced at the steering column, the vibration seemed to be throughout the car. Struts? Motor mounts? Imagination? I cant handle the truth?
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Have a 1997 2wd F-150 XLT auto trans with 305,000 miles that has developed at vibration that is most noticeable at 55-60mph. It seems to start at about 35, but at 55 you can feel it in your seat. When it's vibrating shifting into neutral doesn't change anything.
Drive shaft u-joints: two rear replaced not too long ago (5+ years?), front joint by transmission seems to move freely, but isn't excessively sloppy, carrier bearing okay. Have done the following with no improvement:
Re-balanced all tires, no problems noticed during the balance;
Replaced first right and then left rotor and wheel bearings, no change.
Several mechanics have driven it and made different pronouncements, it's not: transmission, rear-end, tires, u-joints or carrier bearing. One mechanic ran it while up on his lift and didn't see a driveshaft balance problem. Last suggestion was that the left wheel bearing were "on their way out", so they were the most recent change. It's drivable, but not fun and it produces a lot of noise in the cab.
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I have a 2004 2.7L V6 GLS Hyundai Santa Fe AWD that I purchased about a year ago. The car has about 114,000 miles on it I believe. My problem is that I have an annoying vibration at idle and at highway speeds of 60-65 mph. The vibration decreases somewhat towards 70 mph. The vibration at idle is usually present, but sometimes vanishes for no apparent reason. The car is very smooth below 55 mph, but when around 60-65 mph becomes quite violent at times. The side view mirrors shake very badly and the vibration can become tiresome.
Originally the shop believed that the front axles were the culprit and replaced them – this mitigated some vibration felt through the steering wheel, but not much of the vibration throughout the cabin. The wheels have been balanced 3 times, alignment checked, and wheels do not seem to be bent/dented. (The tires were road force balanced)
In addition I have also had the following work done:
-2 oxygen sensors replaced (both post-catalytic converter)
- 2 Catalytic converters (replaced to pass emissions)
-Timing Belt Replaced
-Serpentine Belt Replaced
-Idler Pulley and Auto-Tensioner Replaced
-Ignition Coils Replaced
-Spark Plugs Replaced
-Transmission Fluid Change
-Oil Changes
-1 Tire Replaced (Sidewall Blew Out) (Michelin LTX M/S2 Tire)
-Air Filter Changed
-Crankshaft Position Sensor Replaced (It was Corroded Away)
Why the car is vibrating so that the mechanics can check it out. One idea I have could be the engine mounts – this would explain the vibration at idle (in park). I drive about 10 hours a week on the highway at the speeds that cause this vibration.
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At high speeds 70mph + there is a vibration with my 2006 Passat. You can definitely feel it at your feet, and slighty at the body. It is snowy and cold up here, I tried a few different roads, no change.
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We went to an out of town zoo over the weekend and the exit is going up a short but steep incline. When going up I get this very noticable shutter, vibration coming from underneath but thats the only time it does it. This is the 3rd weekend in a row weve been there and its done it everytime. Is there anything I could check? Normal driving is non issue, and going up this incline were only going like 5 mph or so. Im stumped.
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I have been reading about some folks are having those vibration at certain speeds... Recently I also started noticing some strange vibrations... It happens when I am accelrating and driving on curved road at speed 100KM and up... I still cannot detect the source of these vibration as sometime it feels from steeing column or front suspension frame... All I can say its really annoying. Also, mechtronics valve body soon will be replaced as it is driving my DSG really insane.
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I wanted to believe I had rid the car of the steering wheel vibration when I lowered the Psi in the tires from 46-50Psi to the 35Psi it should have. However, the car still has a vibration in the steering wheel when going highway speeds accelerating up gradual hills or when accelerating out of a sweeping turn at highway speeds. It is very noticeable, you can see the hands on the wheel shake. Passengers don't notice it. I had my brother in law drive it without mentioning to him and he noticed it as well.
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I bought 2012 Prius ii around 6 weeks ago. From day one I started noticing vibrations in the steering wheel most noticeable at highway speeds. I can describe this as high frequency vibrations that become very very annoying especially if you drive to work for an hour every day. This car has OEM Bridgestone Ecopia EP 20 tires. I took the car to the dealership twice already, they balanced the tires twice and road force tested it twice. They replaced front tires for me because based on the test results one tire was at 16 lb the other one at 19 lbs.
The new tires are at 8 and 10. They keep on telling me that this is by design and is a characteristic of the vehicle. However the Prius I test drove when I was buying it did not have this problem, otherwise I would never buy it. This vibration happens in any mode and I can even feel it at lower speed now though it is not as noticeable. I had a few people including Prius owners drive my car and everyone feels the vibration. With so many Prius models sold I highly doubt that everyone just accepts it as a feature.
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Just got my 2014 SCREW 6.5bed with eco boost. Truck has a high frequency vibration very noticeable at 45-55 MPH. So bad the rear view mirror is blurry. Took it to the dealer and they said the e-brake was dragging and fixed that and said the vibration was gone. Not gone. Did some searches and found a number people reporting vibration issues possibly related to drive shaft issues.
Took this video of the slip yoke at the T-case idling in first gear, sent it to the dealer and they said that's normal. I don't think that looks normal. Does that looks normal?
Slip Yoke at T-Case ...
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2008 SE V6 Convertible : I have noticed that the road noise has gotten significantly worse. I don't think it's the tires as they have been well inflated and still have about 80% tread left. The noise gets very noticeable starting at 30 mph and gets louder with speed, (by the time I reach 70MPH / 2.5K RPM its already VERY LOUD) and you can even feel the "grinding" vibration in the accelerator pedal and steering wheel. It seems to from the front. A kind of cycling hum (not constant; but broken like the tip of a helicopter blades). The noise does not change in turns; and it's not a loud clunking noise.
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This is probably always present but I hear it most at low speed if I am off the gas and brake. Slightly accelerating or lightly touching the brakes seems to reduce or stop the noise. It is a knocking noise coming from the right front and the rate is related to car speed. I am guessing CV joint. What is it?
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Wanted to query the collective wisdom here: last few days, been getting a strong grinding/vibration rolling along, but only under steady speed or slowing down. Early in any trip its barely noticeable, but after an hour on the highway it can resonate pretty strongly. Gets worse with speed. Goes away completely under acceleration.
Doesn't get better or worse with brake application, stays exactly the same if I pop the tranny into neutral and roll along.
2008 B6 Sedan (trendline in Canada) - 103000 km (roughly 60000 miles)
Couple of possibly related observations: tires are down to their last 1/3 of life (but fairly even wear across all 4), brakes do need attention (bit of a pulse on application), and when I was switching from snows to summers I noticed a small splash of grease on the driver side CV boot - couldn't see a split but I don't think it should have been there.
My thoughts: possibly CV joint going, or really need new rotors...
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I just purchased my brand new 2014 F150 4x4 STX 5.0L single cab short box about a month ago. I noticed when I drove it off the lot that it had a slight vibration at low RPMs. I boiled it down to brand new stuff working out all the kinks and running around for the first time, bought a brand new jeep in 2005 and it made interesting noises and had funny vibrations for a while, but this is starting to get annoying. I have a very noticeable vibration at low RPMs both in park and while driving, more noticeable at speeds between 35-45 with RPMs anywhere from idle to 1500 or so.
I have not had it at the dealer yet, I want to be armed with a little bit of knowledge when I go in an talk to them if possible. I know how stealerships work and since it seems similar problems are somewhat common in these newer F150s, I don't want to get the "oh it's common in these trucks and perfectly normal". In my opinion a brand new truck should run smoother than melted butter on hot flapjacks, especially one that only has 1400 miles on it.
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