Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Not Firing On All Cylinders - EPC Light On
Mar 3, 2013
I bought a 01 passat with a bad turbo I drove it home as I was getting home the STOP low oil pressure light came on and I parked it the engine had a lifter rattle but not knocking I went to start next day and Have no fire on first two cylinders (only two I checked), where to start? I pulled coil pack/plug tube out and hooked a plug in to check fire on first 2 cylinders got no spark....
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97 SL ATX - Not firing on cylinders 3 and 6; no voltage to that coil.
I've checked:
Plugs
Wires
Coils
PTU
ECU
Timing
So I guess the CAS is the next best guess. So where exactly IS the CAS...and how do i test it? Also, where is the timing mark on the crank pulley? Cams are all aligned but I didn't see a mark for the crank and don't know where I should be looking.
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Ok so I'm having weird issues with my big turbo R. I thought I was having misfires in low rpm range. Car was stumbling and just not firing on all cylinders ( just an expression but that's what it felt like) realized it was because of the esp. Ok no the main issue. Vacuum was sitting around 14hg. When I come up to a light or stop sign or just put in neutral while moving it revs it self ad vacuum will go to almost 0hg until I come to a full stop.
The rev is not a big rev only like 100-150 rpm increase. Also the throttle response is not there if I go to rev match down shift. Here's the weird part. If I unplug the Maf it runs super smooth 19-20hg vacuum amazing throttle response clutch chatter almost goes away. There are no cel with or without the Maf plugged in I have logs for both...
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150K 2003 durango 4.7, ran like a top, backed in my driveway to eat lunch. Went to start and it sounded like it was firing on 1 or 2 cylinders give it a little gas and it died. Repeated 3 or 4 times now no fire at all. No check engine light at first now it flashes. About 30 miles with new fuel from a reputable local station tank was on reserve ( 0 miles on the overhead indicator ). All fuses are good . could it be a relay.....
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Is there something that would make the 3 cylinders on the drivers side of a 1990 2.9l not fire? I have spark to the plugs and pressure/fuel at the schrader valve on the fuel rail. The passenger side cylinders are firing fine and the engine runs (roughly) on these 3 cylinders. Truck was running just fine, then all of a sudden, drivers side is dead. Is there a fuse or something that controls these three fuel injectors?
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Al right i have a 94 ranger 4.0 4x4 auto 186k ... The truck has new bosch double plat plugs gaped .054, new wires, MAF, TPS, FPR, O2 sensors, ECTS and I checked the intake air charge sensor and is fine ....
My issue is cylinders 4,5 and 6 dont fire... the coil is sending a spark, i can pull the plugs one at a time and watch them fire (strong blue spark)... All fuel injectors do not leak and spray a perfect cone out of all 4 holes and noid light test is good ...
The truck runs like crap back firing and no power under 4k and i can pull off all 3 wires for bank one and it make no difference and when i unplug the injectors no more back fire....
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i have a 1999 F-150 2x4 witha 5.4 liter v-8 with 151,000 miles. Last week the truck began to run rough when i accelerated (ideled fine)and felt like it wasn't fireing on all cylinders and was puffing white smoke. A few minutes later the battery light came on and the truck lost all power and shut off. I replaced the battery and alternator and everything ran fine for a week. Now the issues have come back but i'm not sure the alternator and batter have gone bad again. What could be going on? Have the coils gone bad?
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Last night when I started my car before heading home from work I noticed that the engine clunked a couple of times, as if it were slowly combustion or back firing in two cylinders. The car started up fine; however, I've never heard the engine do that before. I don't know if it is because it has been cold up here the last few days (-12C (10F) day time highs) or if there's something else wrong. My EGT has just under 60,000km (37,200mi).
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I got my AFS ballast replaced (dealer $480) and now the lights work, so no more worrying bout tickets! But sometimes the light won't turn on. Like 8/10 times it will but then it wont. The light is still blinking on the dash and now the lights won't level!
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I have a 2001 1.8T Passat. I bought it used recently and have had tons of problems. I have been getting a lean air code for some time now and I think I recently resolved that. I had to replace a few vacuum lines, MAF, exhaust flex pipe (it was broken), fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator. The car was still running bad and throwing a lean air code (Bank 1) so I finally changed the O2 sensor and I think that did the trick. Now every time I start the car I get misfires until is warms up. I get misfires on all cylinders along with the multiple misfire code.
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Got a MIL light last night and car started to run like it was on three cylinders. Had a little bit of cam lop to it. LOL Anyways my engine compartment was abit dirty so i just sprayed some water out of the how to get alot of the dirt out.. I think thats where it went wrong? I am assuming everyone else will agree. What is weird there was about 8 hour period between me using the water and this incident. No issue but I did get some new gas.. Are people just thinking coil pack got wet and caused the problem?
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I am getting the dreaded emission workshop.
The codes i am getting are p0301-p0304 and p0171
Which are misfire on 4 cylinders and system to lean (bank 1).
Here is what I have done:
Got the 4 ignition coils replace, replaced the mass air flow, replaced the air filter, replace the plugs.
I just check the L wire and it doesn't have any cracks or holes
I don't know what to do next.
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Bought a fixer upper 2001 v10 and it's definitely not running on all cylinders. Also the check engine light is not on and the PCM is not saying it's on (per my code reader) and it doesn't come on when I turn the key on.
Is it possible the previous owner had a programmer of some sort to disable the CEL? If the bulb were removed my scan tool would still show it on. Trying to get it to tell me which cylinders I am having trouble with.
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Got a 2004 Elantra that ran hot the other day. When it cooled down I added some water and tried to start it but it just spins over and over and is not firing. Had some trouble with it earlier in the day with the engine racing and feeling like it wasn't getting any power to the wheels. Anyway, after running hot it just turns over. First thought it was the timing belt being broke but turns out it isn't. What else could cause this? Have checked the fuses and none are blown. Acts like it has no compression at all.
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Been battling this for several months. Sometimes, the truck will crank but not fire. Several attempts, then apply gas pedal, eventually will start. I have read through and searched much of this forum. Let me start with this, every part I have replaced has been with Motorcraft parts. I have done the following:
1. Replaced IAC. Ports are very clean.
2. Replaced fuel pump & filter.
2. 5 Voltage at pump connector is good AND it lights a heavy bulb. Not losing voltage to pump.
3. Replaced MAF sensor. This changed it. Stopped doing the no start for about one month. Then began doing it again.
4. Replaced MAF connector, soldered in a motorcraft connector. Good for 3 days.
5. Have checked connector pin tension and condition at crank sense. Good.
6. No codes.
7. Always shows RPM on scan tool while condition is present.
8. Once it starts, it never dies, not rich, not lean. Fuel trims are great and runs mint.
9. Technician is now in loony bin.
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I have a misfire on cyl 3, what is the firing sequence, changed plugs which didn't solve problem... so I'm going to try coil pack.
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I went to start my car this morning it cranks and nothing it is not firing at all, and I do not hear the fuel pump when I open the door like I usually do. It just happened all the sudden. Is there a way to check fuel pressure in these in the W8? Also any known problems to make them do this? So irritating...
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I have a 2001 ford escape v6 the engine light is on and when advance pulled a code it came back egr valve is sticking and #2 is not firing.. I have a 2002 v6 parts car that I ran hot I took both parts off and put on my 01 buts its still running the same..
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Lately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.
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2001 f350 7.3 Changed front injector drivers side inspected all 4 glow plugs on this side turned motor over my hand 5 time reinstalled plugs put back together hooked both plugs back up started truck and no of the cylinder on drivers side are firing checked them with temp gun!! what did i not do or do wrong.
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I started the car the other day and it was running really rough and engine light was on. I started pulling the spark plug wires and pulling #3 didn't make any difference in terms of decreasing performance where the others all did.
I've replaced the plug, and distributor cap. I've also confirmed with the plug out of the block that it is firing.
I'm not sure at this point what to look at next. This happened overnight, not gradually over time, and apart from running rough the engine isn't making any noises which based on sound, and how fast it happened doesn't make me think its a scoring/compression issue.
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