Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Missing Fan On Engine?
Dec 22, 2006
It is missing a fan in the engine compartment but it doesn't seem to overheat. The fan is not the radiator fan and I am wondering if it is a problem. If I sit at a light the smell of burnt oil also starts coming into the car through the heater. I am just wondering, what kind of oil recommended for a passat with that kind of mileage?
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Our Hyundai Elantra starts up and idols like a dream, but when you put it in gear the engine misses so bad it doesn't want to go. What could be the problem that is causing it to do this?
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Changed the oil in the car today, I added 4.5 liters and went to start it and it was misfiring. I thought what the hell did I do to the car to run so rough..I shut it down and checked the level and topped it up. Started the car and it was fine ..
I am thinking that because the oil filler cap was removed and started that the computer detected something changed in the engine . This is the first time an engine has done this to me, these things are fine tuned..Must be something to do with the pvc valve system.
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I was on my way home yesterday when my 99 Passat 1.8T suddenly became much louder than usual and seemed to lose a lot of power. I limped home, and now poking around the engine with my flashlight, I see that the metal pipe that comes off the left side of the engine is no longer attached, and is hanging free, with no obvious way to attach it.
I'm (obviously) not much of a car DIY-er, but looking at how close the two pipes are to one another, how similar they are in size, and how they don't actually come close enough to one another to actually connect, I'm wondering what the missing piece is that connects them, and whether or not it's similar to the sort of Fernco connector you use in plumbing when you have to join two pipes that otherwise won't meet.
[URL] .....
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I noticed this past weekend that when I stopped at a stop light for a long period of time, the engine would misfire for a split second, random, just miss for a moment, then do the same after 15 or so, sometimes less. Other times, no issue.
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Lets start at the beginning. About two weeks ago my girlfriend got a check engine light and the car started missing( 98 Passat 1.8T, 5 speed). Checked obvious things like fuel delivery-good. Pulled coil packs and had no spark on #2 cyl. Investigated more and found one of the pins on the ign. control module was shorted. Felt pretty sure that was the problem since everything else checked out. Ordered a Huco installed it and that fixed the problem except the car seemed slow reprogramming to the new part. I disconnected the battery to clear the memory and that seemed to do the trick.
About 2 weeks later my GF is coming home and fortunately it died in front of the apartment. Checked everything again. Getting fuel, no wires shorted on ign. or fuel harness plus they all get power just no signal when checking with an LED tester. Ign. module was good also. Checked speed sensor for resistance per the book it was good. Tried a new Camshaft Pos. Sensor hoping that was the problem, no luck. I believe it must be the computer. I'm trying to get one from a salvage yard. I don't know if the old computer can be reprogrammed or not. Also was wondering if the dealer(where I really do not want to go) can test the computer somehow and tell me if it is bad or not(don't know if I would trust them anyway), just wanted to include that option.
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1.8 had recent coil pack problems? I recently had a coil pack fail in very hot weather 2 weeks ago. This week during another heat wave I believe the coil was again causing the engine to start missing. I know about VW's past reliability problems concerning coil packs and am now concerned that this may be surfacing again.
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I have a 2003 prius that is missing the relay that goes in "ABS Sol" spot in the fuse box closest to the windshield but under the hood. I think the last mechanic who worked on it took it out to test and never put it back...
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS that has two issues that may be related. The first one the engine will shut off for no apparent reason. Doesn't matter how fast, or if the a/c is on or not. I used to be able to start it right up after I pulled over, now I have to wait about 15 seconds. Starts up fine and runs like nothing happened. There is no particular time frame when it will shut down. Maybe once a month, then happen twice in a week.
Second issue is when I have to stop at a red light and have the a/c on, it seems to have an intermittent miss, meaning after it does miss it idles fine for a while and then misses again. It seems like a miss to me, feels like the car almost shuts down but catches itself and will idle fine until next miss. If I turn off the a/c I do not feel it miss. If I have the a/c on and put it into neutral, it does not appear to miss near as much.
The check engine light has come on twice for a day or so and then goes out. Car runs fine when it does. Below is what I have done since I purchased the car used at 104,000 miles. current mileage - 117,000
* changed timing belt, transmission fluid, brake fluid, changed oil at 104,000 miles when bought.
* installed new radiator recently
* installed crankshaft sensor (due to error code when checked)
Other than that, car runs great, accelerates good, idles good
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My 2004 4 cyl Santa Fe the check engine light came on now it jerks in all gears kinda like its missing.
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I just acquired a 01 wolfsburg jetta 1.8t and first time vw owner.
I just got the car and found that all the pcv ventilation hoses were crumbling and broken down. I replaced everything under the intake up to the y at the valve cover. All was in stock at the dealer was the oil cooler elbow, tee and pcv valve. From there, i made my own hoses using 3/4 hose and couplers.
Before this, it ran fine but sometimes at idle the idle would jump up and down but not die. I also had a couple codes, can't remember what the number was. One was O2 bank 1 sensor 1 lean and i think the other was O2 related.
Now, after trying to fix the leaks. CE light went out but idle still does the same but my boost improved from like 5psi to like 9psi wot. That's not an issue but coming home tonight when i went to second, it felt like it was dragging or not wanting to accelerate or accelerate and like stall for a second. If you blip the throttle it back fires while in second when its doing this.
Only mod on the car i know of is it has a forge DV/blowoff i guess is the correct name. It can be used as a dv or both.
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This problem started out about a month and a half ago. It started missing slightly. Then I noticed my gas was going down very fast. So I started watching it, A five mile trip used a eighth tank of gas. It keeps getting worse. My husband popped the hood and was looking to see if he could spot anything.( Couldn't smell any gas) He noticed the purge control solenoid wasn't making the noise it normally does. He took it off, cleaned it and put it back on and it started working again. ( NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON AT ANY TIME ) It did it again.
So we called the dealer, made an appointment, took it in, The dealer service guy said he Scanned for codes PO443 Performed Diagnosis Found EVAP PURGE SOLENOID Sticking Open. He said everything else checked out good. He ordered the part, called said it was in, went back, installed it. Amazingly IT"S STILL NOT WORKING. Now, I Do Not TRUST the dealership. It Stalls and misses and spits and sputters when it is in park and you give it the gas. There's times when I am at a parking lot waiting to get out and I start to pull out it trys to die on me.
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I have a 2001 ranger 2wd with a 2.3. It has a miss when acceleration. There is no check engine light. I have changed: fuel filter. Plugs, wires, crank position. Sensor, cleaned mass air flow sensor. Ran 2 bottles of injector cleaner in it. Still missing???? It runs and idles great. Just has a miss in the lower RPM's 1000-2000 then goes away. I really don't wanna take it to a shop. What do you all think??
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Just finished changing my oil and noticed that the dipstick was cracked. Upon further inspection I noticed the end which mates with the plastic tube was cracked and there were missing chips. I can only imagine where they ended up, in the oil. My question is, what to do? Since this is a plastic component, I assume that it will not harm the interior engine parts, but not 100% sure.
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Recently my B5.5 V6 has been acting funny when I start it after it has sat for a while (several hours). It doesn't want to start, and when it does, it seems to be missing. Clears out pretty quickly, but it's got me scratching my head. Only does this when it's been sitting for a while (>5-6 hours or so). I'm thinking fuel pressure accumulator.
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I have just bought the Passat 2002 TDI AVF engine. When I open the fuse box cover and look at the scheme, I can conclude that some fuses are missing. Probably I don't understand the symbols' meanings. For example the fuse 41 is missing, but my ABS works. But I have the ESP so though that is the same device probably the fuse 42 is for ABS too. Then, the fuse 9 is missing, and my car has the mirror heat function. How can I test do they work? Does the little symbol on the heat switch become yellow when they work? Fuse 10 is missing if I understood the symbol was for CD. My car has Charger in the back and it works.
The last thing is fuse 1. What is this fuse for? Is it for headlight washer, and if is, what is the fuse 3 for? I disregarded the possibility that some cars may have the washing water heater and it is may be for that. My car doesn't have either headlights washer or water heater. The fuse 18 is for long beam and signal lamp, it is obvious.
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My father owns a 2003 Santa Fe GLS with the 2WD 2.7L V6 engine.
Recently it has been having lots of power loss issues. It vibrates/misses when idling, if you put your foot down on the gas pedal, whether under load or not, it sometimes stalls or just sits there. We took it to Hyundai, and they had no error codes. They charged us $150 to tell us nothing is wrong with it, when clearly something is. The car has become downright dangerous to drive because it cannot make it up hills without stalling/losing power.
The most recent thing we had done to it was the wires/spark plugs changed, which I think was at 65k on the odometer?
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My problem is my 2001 Santa Fe petrol 2.7 L its done over 300,000 km one day it sounded like a click when driving, then when I started it cold in the morning it was missing [not running right] and had no power until it warmed up the spark leads are not that old anyway I put new spark plugs in it it seem to run a lot better but seems to be down on power on hills I think coils are ok? the motor not smokey but burn little bit of oil.
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2001 Ford Escape or later and having problems with missing, low power and shaking when going up an incline. I have had problems with my escape for the last two years missing and missing and more missing. Have replaced Coil packs and spark plugs several of them. Well back in June I let the Mechanic have it for almost 3 months. All 6 coil packs were changed, spark plugs included, all vacuum hoses, belts, water pump, front CAT already had new radiator replaced last year. Had two broken wires leading from the PCM to the fuel injectors 1 and 5, he re did the wiring harness there and checked the fuel injectors.
After all done that could be done, I took my car back and it was purring like a kitten, on a flat surface that is............after driving it for several days, headed to another city and had several small inclines to go up, not bad ones, and between 45 and 50 mph, my escape started to shake, miss, and make noise, not a loud noise, but enough to get my attention, and the check engine light started going on and off. Today I took it back to my mechanic, he went on a test drive with me, (me driving) and it duplicated the problem. Went back to his shop, put the code machine on it, and no codes, I asked him if he had serviced my transmission like I asked, and he checked with his other mechanics and they said no, that the transmission fluid seemed okay, figured it didn't need it. Well guess what it did. So if ya'll are till having problems after you have replaced the coil packs, check for electrical issue around fuel injectors, and your front CAT, mine was full of fuel, then make sure you service the transmission, and you'll have the best little ride ever!!!
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Looking at figuring out why my a/c isn't working. Has a full charge but just doesn't come on. Trying to check the relay (384), but my car seems to be missing it (2000 V6 fwd w/ climatronic). It appears I have two slots open, although I think one of the slots is where I took the DRL relay from. I have a slot open on top next to relay 267 or one on the bottom row next to relay 370. Or because of the climatronic, is it a different relay?
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This is my first B6, but my sixth VW so no stranger to them....
Bought this one a few weeks ago and just noticed it is missing the Duct Cover on the intake, so there is a large opening on the top of the intake pipe. Just wondering if this would cause a reduction in power or MPG?
The cover & Air Inlet Duct, which is cracked and the reason the cover probably fell off, are on order, but was curious if I should see any difference in the way it runs once these are replaced.
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