Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Got Alternator Workshop Warning - Electrical Systems Lost Power
Apr 7, 2011
So i JUST got my timing belt replaced on my 2001 B5 Passat 4motion, took it in and got it done. Now when the tech was working on it he said that the car was slow cranking one day, and I have intermittantly seen the same thing before, but i have known for a while that I need a new battery, its old, and randomly have little power, but it has always worked once the car is started.
As soon as i picked the car up yesterday I got the "alternator workshop warning" and quickly the car started to act funny as systems lost enough power to not function correctly (abs light, brake light, etc). Now is there ANYTHING else this could be beside the alternator? fuses, wires, other faults, etc, etc.
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I have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0L Crew Cab Lariat 4x4 signal rear wheels Ford tow package. After market options Bully dog power put and outlook controller.
Next the problems When they started and order pleas stay with me.
I purchased a goose neck horse trailer and after hooking it up, plugin in the tight and break round plug I found that the trailer lights did not work. I inspected the plug on my truck I found that the wires were cut next to the plug so I purchased a after market plug and swapped the two out and the lights worked. Excepted the right turn signal did not work.
I thought I was good and then the problems started during the six hour trip home at night my turn lights and break lights ceased to work on my truck and trailer the running lights and head lights work on both. After I returned home I looked for shorts and bad fuses I never found any.
After that I started to accumulate problems.
The Outlook controller would occasionally loose signal and turn off and on and the door ajar is on all the time. After that the I had the oil filter fail and pieces of it went through the IPR screen causing the IPR to fail I know its unrelated but it is. After having a no start condition and replacing the IPR all my gauges would go peg to peg when trying to start. I put a long hard charge on the batteries and got them to a full charge of 12.6CV and had no problem starting any more. I did find at the time I hooked up the charger is that one of the batteries blew off one of the cell covers.
But what happened next.
The truck lost full electrical systems as in the 4x4 switch quit working, the power locks quit working, door chimes quit, the transmission would not shift into overdrive and the tow light flash and now the Outlook Controller flashes on and off so bad I can hardly get the codes off it. The auto headlight quit.
Most of the things I could reset by un plugging fuses and relays to get them to work.
OK the now, I changed the batteries today with new ones and found out the old ones were only at 75% and that fixed some of the problems. The problems I still have is the transmission, turn signals, break lights and Outlook flashing on and off. By the way the Outlook is plugged in the systems plug under the dash.
These are my codes
P0360 ignition coil j primary (I do not know what this is or where I can find it.)
P0401 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient (Is this the EGR cooler I did a EGR Delete by puting freeze plugs in both ends)
P0603 Powertrain Control Module Keep Alive Memory (KAM) Error ( I have no clue about this, this started when I lost the IPR durring all that cranking.)
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I've got the the alternator workshop on my screen and the battery light, again. I've replaced the battery (it was bad) and it drove fine for about 15 min then it came back again. Now it comes back under load (accelerating, revving). The car starts fine now but after a lil but of driving, the car idles high (1k rpm) instead of the 500-700 rpm. I turn the car off and it will go back to the normal idle. I've obviously read about a poss bad alternator but I've read about loose alternator belts. Fixing this issue with tightening the belt or has everyone just replaced the alternator?
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A few weeks ago my alternator workshop and battery light came on while i was driving. I made it home and the next day my battery was dead so logically figured my alternator went. I replaced the alternator and the lights went out, but as I drive it will flash on and off real quick and sometimes it comes on at higher rpms and sometimes it doesn't even come on. I've been looking around for an answer but I cant seem to find one. I've read that it could be the belt or the tensioner.
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My 2004 Elantra is having electrical problems. I left the keys in the ignition one night, and now systems within the car do not work. The car no longer responds to remote controls (lock/unlock). The lights in the cabin do not work. The digital clock and radio displays are blank. The gauges are also reading incorrectly when I start the car (all of them move up and freeze for a few seconds at 4000 RPMs, 70 mph, Hot Engine, then come back down to correct readings).
The car starts fine, and I have checked all fuses. I tried letting the car run to charge the battery, and also tried a jump start from another car to recharge the battery.
Remember, this all started when I left the keys in the ignition over night
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I have a B5 Passat that came in with the alternator workshop light on. Upon a few tests i determined the alternator was bad. I removed the alternator and installed a remand one that was correct for the vehicle. amps and all. After getting it all back together i started it and the car ran fine. I drove it around and shut the car off. Customer took the vehicle and after 15 minutes the car was back for the alternator workshop message being on and battery light again.
I restarted the car and it was off. I restarted it again and it came back on. Replaced the Alternator again with another and took it for a more extensive drive. The lights stayed off this time. I parked the vehicle and shut it down. Waited a few moments and restarted it just to be safe, the lights had came back on again..... After testing it more I've come to find that when the lights are off the alternator is charging the vehicle as it should and when there on the vehicle is not charging. I don't know what it could be at this point but I am absolutely sure its not the alternator.... I honestly don't think this many are bad in a row.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler (Mitsubishi) Sebring Lxi Coupe with the 3.0-liter V6 engine and (in)famous Chrysler A-604 4-speed automatic transmission. Mileage is approx. 115,000. Several days ago, I was on the highway doing 60 mph when the car suddenly, and without making any noise, lost power, as if the engine had quit. When I gave it more gas, the rpm on the tach shot up quickly to 3500, but the car was still losing speed. The Check Engine Light never comes on. Long story short, I pulled over to the side of the road and got the car flat-bedded home. The engine starts and run normally, but the car will not move in any forward gears (drive, first or second) nor in reverse.
The OBD II module is not throwing any codes that are related to a transmission problem. The transmission fluid is not discolored and does not smell or look "burnt". The fluid level is at the full mark on the dip stick. Up to this point, the transmission has performed and shifted flawlessly. I have serviced the transmission regularly every 30,000 miles since buying the car with 60,000 miles on it. I have been reading that this transmission was one of the first to be designed with electronically activated shifting, and has been installed in many models of Chrysler cars, vans, and pickups starting in 1989. Any way to check whether this may be an electrical/electronic problem first before getting a tow to a transmission shop for diagnosis of an internal mechanical failure requiring overhaul or a new trans?
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I have intermittent power problems with the drivers side rear door. The lock, window and even the light under the door stop working. I know that it is a connection problem but wanted locating where connectors are. If I jiggle the wires going through the door it seems to sometimes connect and work. It seems that the connection problem is not in the door itself but somewhere in the car. Is there any connectors in the pillar or somewhere else and what is the best way to get it apart to work on the connections.
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I have a 99 passat 1.8t that as I was driving down the road just lost all power with no warning. I got to side of the road I shut the car off and tried to restart it with no success. Called a local vw shop and they said sounds like a camshaft or crankshaft sensor, so replaced them both with no new success. Why it would lose all power and after replacing those parts and new plugs still no fire to turn it over.
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I have a 2004 B5 130BHP and the display occasionally reads Emissions Workshop.
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I have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
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My 1999 Ford Ranger XLT, 6 cylinder, auto trans, with 134K miles has an electric problem. When I turn the key to the 'on' position, all dash lights show normal, headlights work, radio plays, etc. But when I turn the key to the 'start' position, all electric power is lost. The power remains lost until I disconnect and reconnect the battery ground wire. After reconnecting, I again have power until the key is turned to the 'start' position. I was able to jump start the truck, so I assumed I needed a new battery. I bought one a week ago, and was back to normal until today. The truck started, I drove 4 miles to the grocery store, and then I found myself back to square 1 (i.e., the no-start situation).
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Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
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On Sunday the high-pitched beep went off while driving, followed by the orange engine light to the left of the speedo needle and EMISSIONS WORKSHOP coming up on the computer.
Everything is normal. Revs are fine, temp is fine, no other lights come on. I checked the coolant and that is fine too. This happened about two months ago, but it stopped after a couple of days.
Could this be something like an O2 censor?
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I Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.
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Two weeks ago, my husband and I drove about 90 minutes to a nearby mountain for some snowshoeing. Everything with the car was fine, until we stopped (for about 5 minutes), after which the car BARELY started. When it was time to go home, the same thing happen, and the battery light was on (not the hybrid battery, but just the regular battery). Since the car was running, mostly, and it was Saturday afternoon, we decided to try to make it home. Since the battery wasn't charging, one by one, all the electrical systems shut down, starting with the wipers and ending with the fuel pump. We drifted to a stop on the side of the road.
AAA came and jumped us, which not only got us going but seemed to have solved the problem. The battery tested fine, and Honda ran tests on the car for 3 hours and couldn't find anything wrong. However, we're clearly nervous about taking the car out of town. There was a similar incident a couple months ago, but not nearly as severe - the batter started charging again on it's own after just a couple minutes.
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Since it rained here in Socal today...i got the dreaded "Alternator Workshop" message on my console...It showed up for a split sec just enough time for me to read it. I had just finish installing my Evoms Vflow intake so I started my car and rev'd a few times before the message showed up. It quickly disappeared right after it showed up. I've been reading that the belt could be wet from the rain causing this message or definitely my alternator is bad.
What should I be checking to make sure everything is ok? My car only has 41k miles and it has been sitting for almost 2 weeks.
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2002 Santa Fe V6
Ran the AC yesterday for the first time after a long cold winter. Seemed fine for about 15 miles but then I came to a stop and all of the sudden smelled burning plastic/electrical... white smoke started blowing out of the vents. Pulled over, popped the hood. The smoke appeared to be coming from the passenger/rear side of the engine.
Drove it another 15 miles home (had to) but with no AC or even fan on... made it and noticed the smell and smoke but only very little.
This morning I started it up .. got under the hood and clearly can smell it coming from the same area. That is the alternator at the back of the engine passenger side right? Voltages read fine... seems to be charging ok as well.
The only indicator that it is going bad is of course the smell and smoke... I can feel it is getting very hot.. too hot to touch after only a few minutes running. Spun bearings in it maybe? Just thought I'd put that out there before I start tearing it apart.
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Don't know know the cause of this message. From what I've been able to find, it sounds like a serpentine belt.
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The light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
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Exhaust systems warning symbol that comes on if there is a Exhaust system problem. Yesterday when headed to lunch the warning symbol came on and it startled me as its a picture of an engine block. It was a solid symbol vs flashing. The Phaeton seems to be running well and the book does say get it in to be checked.
Mileage is 69,000
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