Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Fuel Door Opener Is Sporadic
Nov 3, 2011
2001 Wagon : My fuel door opener is sporadic. I put a meter on the plug at the solenoid and I get 12V(ish) when I push the fuel door button. I took the solenoid off and connected it straight to a battery and it moves.
So I am thinking that it is just not getting enough power (current). I wanted to jump the switch, but it has four wires and I have no manual or anything like that. What the four wires do at the switch? There is only two at the solenoid....
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I have a 2003 passat and i would like to use the garage door opener to open a gate. I can't get it to work.
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We just traded in our 91 passat for a 2004 passat. I am trying to program the factory garage door opener that is on the drivers side sun visor. I have read the manaul and cannot get it to program to my door. I tried holding down buttons 1&3 untill it flashes, Then hold down #1 Button and then the "learn" button on the opener (at the same time) then the remote will flah slow then fast when it has the code. Is it possable it will not work with a 6 year old Chraftsman opener?
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Should the garage door opener buttons (1 through 3) light up at night with the headlights, etc. on...? I
'm thinking they should and I'm missing a "turn on" somewhere.
They are very hard to see in the dark.
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I realize this is probably really easy but I don't have my owner's manual.
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Gen 3 2011, rear view mirror grarage door opener light has a constant dim blink. The second light which indicates reflective repression will not turn on or off. That light should be on at night all the time.
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A few years ago, my 2010 Elantra started sporadic chiming when I opened the driver's door. Dealers explanation was that there is a microswitch (sensor) that detects if a key is in the ignition switch. Seems that the switch/sensor thought the key was still in the ignition and when the door was opened, it chimed to remind you that the key hadn't been removed.
Well, the dealer replaced the microswitch, and after a month or so, the problem returned. They lubed the switch, and once again the problem eventually returned. This happened several times. I eventually learned to tap the steering column, which vibrates the switch/sensor and the chiming stops. The dealer said that if a fix were to become known, they would fix it for me, for free.
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2003 Prius - 213 K miles on it.
Problem: Sporadic heat this winter and sporadic a/c in last summer. (Freezing to death)
I've taken it to two mechanics and they both stated that it is a electrical issue and the a/c clutch was check and it was good. It does have code 22. Where the A/C relays and the Heater relays are?
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2009 Ford Focus. Six months ago got in car returning from 60 mile trip. Turned ignition key heard fuel pump hum but no juice to ignition. (Not anti-theft lockout--security light behaved normally.) Would not take jump. Ford Roadside assistance tried everything else possible. Nothing. Towed to nearest Ford dealer. On arrival, car started immediately. Took to local Ford dealer who found absolutely no problems but ran TSB 10-21-8 reprogram PCM--test OK. Had no further problems with car until a week-and-a-half ago--same thing happened. Car towed to dealer again. Started immediately at dealer! Picked up from dealer, that night same thing happened. Did not phone roadside assistance--after 45 minutes car inexplicably started. That was a week ago. No problems since then. Feeling a little panicky w/car that may fail at any time--winter coming.
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The car run ok maybe a little worse economy and has a shudder very sporadically? What's my next step? new MAF?
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I have a 09 w/ DSG and 64K miles. Love it. Never had one mechanical problem until Monday. Driving back from SC on I77 N, my check engine light came on and I stopped at an Autozone in Statesville NC to find that a P2015 fault was to blame. Apparently it is:
DTC Description:
P2015 (2968) Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Range/Performance Sporadic
Technical Background:
- Intake manifold tumble flaps sporadically stick.
- Engine performance is not affected.
At any rate, I drove to the bank this afternoon 2 mi +/- and upon parking at the ATM, the idle went way low (under 1000) and then started creeping higher to about 3K. I raced the engine a couple times then it began starting at 1200, going to about 2000 and then back to 1200. Over and over. It's hard for me not to think these two things were related, except the check engine light was off from Tuesday to today. When the idle was roughest today (almost stalling) - the check engine light began to blink. Then it was steady for the 2 mile drive back and under normal driving, I can't tell anything's wrong.
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I have a 2006 VW Passat 2.0T 6spd and it has the electronic rear parking brake with auto-hold. Recently needed rear brake pads, but hadnt had the 3 updates for the system, so i could not retract the e-brake through the computer. Got the update done, got the car back with two codes that i cannot get cleared:
53 - Parking Brake
02433: Supply voltage for right parking brake motor (sporadic) - V283
01087: Basic setting not carried out (sporadic)
Every time the codes are cleared, they come back immediately, therefore the scanner will not allow me to operate the system and do the brake job. I am using the Launch x-431 scanner with a vag-com emulator, so there should be no equipment problems if there is anything i can do. Is there an adaptation or relearn that needs to be carried out for the caliper?
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So, last night I buy this 1998 Passat; good deal high miles but in great shape. I look around the car today and noticed that the carpet in the trunk on the side of the fuel door is disheveled. I don't think much of it until I try to access the fuel cap, then I reach in my hand and manually pop the door - so for those that want a manual way to release the door, there you have it, don't resort to screw drivers and such.
Now, I take the release mechanism off and test it with a 12volt battery - works fine. OK, so test the power going to the trunk - 4.4 volts, hmmm? I then check the switch itself and the leads going in are 4.6 volts, again.
So the questions are these:
1. What voltage should I be getting to the switch?
2. Is there a fuse associated with this switch?
3. Where does the voltage originate from?
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New MY2013 SE w/Appearance Package purchased Oct. 2012. Earlier this year the fuel filler door would sometimes stick closed; progressively got worse to where it would not open. Replaced under warranty.
Now starting to stick again and I expect it to worsen. Going back in this week for a warranty replacement fuel filler door.
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So a friend just got a 99 Passat 1.8t and I'm trying to assist them with some issues they're having. First of all the fuel door wont open with the electronic button. I searched around and found people mentioning the fuse, but the fuse box in the dash doesn't have a fuse for the fuel door. Is it part of central convenience? The drivers window switch doesn't control the other windows and the doors don't automatically unlock, they must be unlocked individually.Is this all related? I just want to rule this out before pulling up the carpet to check the wiring.
Also when replacing the drivers turn signal the tab that connects to the spring clip snapped off. Replace only these or is a whole new assembly required?
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2002 Passat Wagon. My fuel door wouldn't open last week. Did some reading here, and found that I could manually push in the plunger to pop my door open. Great! Now I could fuel the car. I'm a bit bummed that there's no cable or some other way to manually actuate the motor. Maybe I missed it? I had to open the right cargo door and reach in and around a plastic tray to pull open the door.
Anyway, I grabbed the multi-meter, and tested the harness, while I had a buddy pull the switch. I'm getting 12v when the switch is pulled. OK, so that means the actuator is bad.
I need to remove and reinstall a new actuator. I'm not quite sure how to get enough access to get at the mounting bolts for the actuator. I assume I need to remove interior trim and molding to get at it, but I'm not sure how to do that.
The access door on the right side of the cargo bay allowed me to get my hands in there to pull the door open, and to unplug the harness, but I'm going to need to pull apart interior stuff to get at the motor.
Any pictures or directions on how to disassemble the interior trim to get at this motor?
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Ok, wifey went to pull out of garage the other day (Tues.) and after putting car in gear, boom it went dead. She started it again and after 2 seconds of sputtering boom dead again. Tried it when I got home and spun over fine, but no fire. screamed fuel pump to me, but I did all the little things first, Fuses #7 and #26 or 28 or something like that, both were good. So I proceeded to check voltage at the pump (It is NOT under the back seat as alot of people told me..) it is under the passengers side mat in the back.
I checked the voltages when my wife was cranking the engine and it was 12.5 volts. When the key is just "on" the volts were 3.5... I went ahead and pulled the pump, not hard - just I had never done it / pumped 12 gallons of gas out.... Tested the pump connected straight to a battery with jumpers (6'+), and nada the pump didn't do any thing. reversed the polarity and it clicked, reversed it again and clicked again, after the 4th time it went to buzzing. I put it back in and nada.
Pump would work sometimes when it was laying on its side. Good enough for me, new pump ordered. New pump installed and cranked it over, nada. Cranked it over again and sputter sputter - vrooooom! Yea! fixed. Well sorta... Read on. Car started up immediately after shutting it off when testing - turned car over to wifey (after flushing brakes and replacing front pads with those niffty green ones...)
OK here is the point to this diatribe: Car's fuel pump isn't firing with the switch "on". it is pumping when the key is switched to "start", and it runs when the car is started. So you have to crank the engine to "prime" the fuel rail. The second time you crank it, it fires right up. Car accelerates well after started but the double cranking cannot be good on the engine's starter. The fuel drain happens sometime after the car has sat for 15+ minutes. If you shut the car off, then wait up to 15 minutes (all I have had time to sit still and check) the car will fire right off. I just don't know what to check now. Could the relay be bad?
I do not hear any humming from the back when the door is opened. What triggers the pump when the door is opened the CCM? It didn't do this before the car quit, always started with a second or two of cranking...
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I took off the door panel of the passenger side door because i needed the serial number for my speaker which is going out, well once iI got everything i needed i replaced the door panel back on it was actually quite simple and took less that 10 mins I didn't even unplug ANYTHING, but then when i get into my car to start it up and go to my mom's house it wont start, nor will it unlock with the key, the lights and everything come on but the engine wont start!
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I have an 01 B5 Passat and the interior cloth covering surrounding the front door frames keeps coming off the rubber gasket. I have tried many different types of glue and contact cement but nothing seems to last longer than a few months.
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I have a different trunk issue...... have a custom trunk lid encloser and it may be too heavy so the lid when the auto opener is engaged opens but when fully open it stops and slams down and closes. Is there an adjustment to allow for the additional weight so it stays open? I've searched but cannot find anything on the topic.
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About 4 months ago I was at the gas station and when I tried opening my fuel door, the switch wasn't working. I went home, took the door trim off, and then removed the switch in order to clean it. Once I cleaned it, it worked but about every 3rd time that I clicked it. However, yesterday it finally gave out as I was at the gas station. So I came home and now I'm stuck because I don't want to break the fuel door.
I ran through the fuses in the fuse box but on the diagram none seem to be for the fuel door. The weird thing is that yesterday as the fuel door switch gave out, so did the interior door lock switch. Now I have to insert the key from the outside in order to enter the car. But the key cannot unlock the passenger door.
When I hit the interior door lock switch, I hear a click noise under the dash. I took a look under there and it seems to be a bunch of relays. It's very tough to tell which one is the one clicking.
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