The engine light in my 2001 Passat all of a sudden started blinking when I started it this afternoon - for no apparent reason. It feels like it's going to stall and is idling kind of loud.
View 3 RepliesSo I am on my way to the store this morning and the check engine light starts blinking. After I get out of the store I try to start the car so I can drive the mile back home and then have it towed to the dealer. The car is only able to drive at like 1-3mph. I changed the cam follower 6k ago and the car only has 43k.
I'm thinking this seems like a fuel delivery/cam follower type of issue. At the moment my plan is to have AAA tow the car home so I can see if its a follower issue. If it is I think I'm going to have to take off my downpipe and put the stock one back on. When I put the car in neutral and step on the throttle I get no revs at all.
2002 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 98K miles.
Was driving home tonight and nearly didn't make it. A few miles down the road I hit the gas hard going up a hill but the Passat kind of lunged a little and lost a lot of power and the engine emblem starting blinking. Coasted down a hill and it stopped and all was well again. From here on I am going careful up hills and not accelerating too fast.
I drive about 30 miles, 10 miles to go and I have to pull a tall hill. Going up this hill the light starts blinking again and I lose most of my power, engine feels like its not hitting on all cylinders and the turbo must be out. Barely make it home going about 40 mph. My check engine light has been on for quite some time, in fact I have had reset about 6-8 times with replacing sensors, air mass meters, etc. Could this be the timing belt?
A few weeks ago while driving to work, my gas light came on and then started randomly blinking and dinging. At the same time, my headlights and dash illumination lights started blinking.
I filled my gas tank and the gas light turned off, but the headlight blinking still remains. When they blink, I can hear a relay? clicking to the left of the steering column.
It seems to take about ten minutes of driving for the problem to develop and then the lights blink every few seconds.
Haven't posted in a long while because...on the coldest day of winter this year (it was around 5 degrees) I took off for work early one morning and before I made it to the highway, my oil light started blinking...I kind of ignored it for a moment because I have a small leak that requires I add about a quart a week (ok maybe this was a good leak already) in any event I had just topped off the oil that morning so I knew I should be alright and since it was so cold I reasoned that it was just an electrical fluke that was gonna clear up once we got warmed up.
Shortly after that I noticed I wasn't really accelerating as quickly as would be normal...so I kinda thought about the blinking light for a second and ended up shutting her down. When I hopped out to look under the hood there was oil everywhere...as well as a trail leading all the way back to my spot in the driveway. I ended up towing her home and she has been sitting since.
Today was the first nice day and I couldn't wait to see what was up so I filled her up with oil again and waited for the leak...nothing. So I put her on the charger and figured it would have to be fairly obvious where the leak was coming from if I fired her up for a second.
I have to say she sounded awful...valves clambering away...but the oil leak revealed itself and I shut her down immediately. I am really hoping that I didn't do that much internal damage and that all the valve noise is primarily from it not being started for so long...but I guess I will have to wait and see on that.
The leak is coming from just to the right of and slightly above the oil filter casing. Its definitely not the casing itself or anything to do with the oil filter...it appears to be just above this thing, what it is but it has a large bolt holding it on (large like the 36mm on the oil filter itself).
I have a 1996 chevy caprice wit a 4.3 v-8 one day i was driving and the car started acting funny and the check engine lite started blinking i had the codes read and 0p300 came up saying multiple misfire so I changed the plug wires they all connect in the front around the harmonic balancer well that didn't work its still saying multi misfire so I took a spark plug wire off of the electric dis block and no change in motor now I don't know what to do...
View 5 RepliesMy check engine light started blinking on my 2000 grandam se last night and it was missing bad and now it wont start what is it.
View 13 RepliesSo my OD light started blinking on the way to work today. The fact that my truck dropped out of cruise control and then started downshifting out of OD on the freeway and back into OD started this ordeal. A quick scan of the dash made it easy to notice the OD light strobe, especially in the dark.
I've read some posts in the past in the event it happened to me since my truck is far from new. I had it in the back of my mind that I would attack the VSS sensor with some contact cleaner then replace if that didn't fix the problem. Doing a search revealed a far greater spectrum of culprits. In addition to the VSS potential I have read about transmission handles, chafed wiring in the steering column, and even the transmission itself. Instead of re-inventing the wheel I'm looking for those that have more knowledge on this issue than I do. Here are my symptoms:
1. Drove 5 miles from my house to the freeway with no issues.
2. Shortly after getting on the freeway I set my cruise control at 65mph.
3. Shortly after that my cruise control 'dropped out' and the truck started to slow down (obviously).
4. When I got back up to speed the cruise would not work which is when the out of OD and right back into OD started. It did that all the way to work (it would go out of OD and back in every couple of minutes or so).
5. Transmission hunted on surface streets too (25mph).
6. Turned the truck off, waited a couple of minutes, then started it back up. OD light is off and truck drives fine.
A couple of things to note. This is the first time anything like this has ever happened with the truck. Also, I have Torque Pro and my instantaneous MPG meter was at 0.0 the entire time this was happening. When I turned the truck off and back on, the MPG was displaying again normally. This is what made me thing something with the VSS connector.
I decided to search the issue and confirm my suspicions then found out that this could be a lot more difficult to pinpoint. Since it cleared up when I cycled the key I am ruling out a transmission issue (for now).
I plan on cleaning the VSS connector (that's the plug on top of the rear axle right?) and then pulling the cover off the steering column to see if I can see any chafed wires. Is there anything else to check out while I'm rooting around? I will add that my transmission handle has always been loose (I think the original owner used to drive with his right hand resting on the handle).
I have a 96 Grand Voyager that had had sat for a year undriven or started due to being out of state. It ran like a champ when I parked it. Now I charged the battery and went for a drive on the freeway and my check engine light came on and started blinking. I had the code read it came back with 2 codes a P0306 and a P0300. I noticed that the cylinder 6 spark plug wire was arcing on the core support. So I replaced all the plug wires and spark plugs with Champion platinum spark plugs. I cleared the codes and took it on a test drive and the P0300 code came back. Is there anyway the old gas is causing the random misfire? or what else could it be?
View 1 RepliesI've got a 1992 Ford Ranger 2.3L with about 240,000 miles on it. The check engine light started blinking on and off pretty regularly so I pulled the OBD1 continuous memory codes and came up with this.
327 - EVP/EPT circuit below minimum voltage
328 - EGR closed valve voltage lower than expected
334 - EGR closed valve voltage high
I can't say these codes mean a whole lot to me besides I've got issues with my EGR valve and possibly the EGR valve position sensor. I was thinking I'd start by replacing the EGR valve.
About a week ago I was driving my Pontiac 2003 Grand Am V6 and it began to violently shake and the "check engine light" came on and started blinking. I then immediately took it to the mechanic It has been with the mechanic for 6 days and they were unable to locate the problem. They called me today and I was told that I have no compression in one of the cylinders (I have done business with them before and felt comfortable in that I wasn't being taken advantage of). Also, is there any problems in the future with getting a cylinder replaced i.e. other parts of the engine that might correlate?
View 17 RepliesTraded in my 2006 mustang gt for a 2006 2.0T passat last week. As I was driving the car to work today the check engine light started blinking and the car started to vibrate as if it were about to shut off. The light eventually stayed on, I took it the the dealer and there not sure what the problem is, they say they've never seen this before.
View 15 RepliesOK, truck is 2000 F350. I am heading on a 2000 mile roadtrip to Yellowstone for my wife's 40th birthday in two days. What was our rock of a vehicle is now causing me severe anxiety.
Over the last few days the truck has been difficult to start - almost stops turning over as if the batteries were low. So I ignored it because if I plug it in, it starts fine and if I drive it and it gets hot - it starts fine.
Tonight while driving - I noticed a high idle and then it went to normal - I thought it was weird and a few miles later at a stop sign it struggled at idle, sort of loping but not romping very high and the over drive light started blinking. When I got home when I went from drive to neutral it goes to high idle and then the overdrive light blinks. The first time it blinked it went off when I pressed the OD button - but now it continues to blink.
Would low batteries be the root cause of this? I will continue my search for blinking OD light but I thought I would get this in the queue in case this is bigger than I can handle. I have 48 hours to resolve this issue - leaving Wednesday early morning.
My Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
My check engine lights been on forever, like every VW, but now it's blinking fast, and the car isn't running right. It's messed up AGAIN, it's running really bad, like misfiring and not making power. It's shaky feeling in the throttle and power, almost like it's going to stall but it doesn't. What the problem is?
View 5 RepliesTwice now (and maybe a third time once I start my van again) we've had problems with the van chugging and then the service engine light blinking. Both times it happened in the past, we took it to a mechanic who said it needed a tune-up - new spark plugs, wires, etc. I'm curious as to why this keeps happening. Mileage is around 105K. It first happened last summer, second time was in December. Now it's March. What could cause this problem to repeat?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2001 ford escape. Today it starts to miss and the engine lights starts flashing. It is never the same amount of flashes. Sometimes its 8 or 10 flashes. I counted up to 25 flashes one or twice It just shakes bad and that's when the flashing starts. When it starts to miss and vibrate, I can accelerate in passing gear and it smooths out. When you hold it at a constant speed it starts missing again. Cannot get a code with my reader. Someone told me a flashing light indicates a misfire. What may be causing this problem?
View 2 RepliesThe light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
View 2 Replies'99 Passat GLS - 79,000 miles - no mods ... Solid Check Engine Light was on for about 2 weeks...last time it was on, it was a fuel cap issue so I took my time with it. Well, all of the sudden on 4/14/03, on my way to work, (less than 5 minutes after starting the car) the car starts to ride hard (like going over grated pavement)...check engine light starts to blink! I pulled over. Eventually the light went back to solid.
Tonight (on 4th ignition sequence since picking up the car this AM) - the solid Check Engine Light came on again.
I had a friend who went through this with a 2000 Passat GLS - different dealer claimed it was the MAF, then the O2 sensors, then....she eventually took it to carmax to unload it.
So last Thursday I started my car up in the blistering cold and it ran fine for about a minute and started to misfire so I shut it off. It hasn't ran since. When that happened the check engine light was blinking because of the misfire. I didn't have a code reader at the time to read it. now that I got a code reader the damn thing isn't throwing any codes. it spits and sputters sometimes. I've had no previous problems with the car. Thinking It might be a weak fuel pump or bad coils and in not sure how to test them.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Windstar Sports SE with 155K miles. I did a tune-up eight months ago. With the tune up I had to replace the fuel pump because it was defective. Later, I found that there were misfires occurring since I was getting slow acceleration. I had the spark plugs on the guilty cylinders replaced again and the spark plug wires.
Periodically, I have had to return to the shop to have the vehicle checked. I sometimes get a blinking check engine light while trying to accelerate, which now occurs only while it is raining or I am exiting the car wash. The shop is at a loss as to what it is (spark plugs and wires are fine, no lose connections noticed). I am wondering if I should take it to someone else. Of course, taking it somewhere else will cost me $100 to check on someone's else work.
The shop replaced the ignition coil. Distributor cap is fine. They keep saying that the engine is running fine while in the shop and do not get any codes. I had them drive it while it was raining and they discovered that cylinder 4 is misfiring. They worked on the cylinder. The vehicle runs well, until it rains or I wash it.
My questions to the group, "If everything is OK, how come it is misfiring? What are they missing? What is the connection to the moisture?"