The light engine is on - I understand that the O2 sensor on bank one is gone, the car hesitates and I would like to understand what is wrong. Maybe other sensors or perhaps the turbo. The car has 62,000 miles. Will the car recup power by replacing the bad O2 sensor?
View 2 RepliesSo i JUST got my timing belt replaced on my 2001 B5 Passat 4motion, took it in and got it done. Now when the tech was working on it he said that the car was slow cranking one day, and I have intermittantly seen the same thing before, but i have known for a while that I need a new battery, its old, and randomly have little power, but it has always worked once the car is started.
As soon as i picked the car up yesterday I got the "alternator workshop warning" and quickly the car started to act funny as systems lost enough power to not function correctly (abs light, brake light, etc). Now is there ANYTHING else this could be beside the alternator? fuses, wires, other faults, etc, etc.
Check engine light came on and stayed on today. Engine lost almost all power so I guess I was in "limp home mode". CEL ODB-II code was P2138 according to AutoZone.
Accelerator position sensor malfunction
Probable causes:
1. Open or short circuit condition
2. Poor electrical connection
3. Failed APS.
After turning off the vehicle, it seems fine at least in town but the check engine light is still on. This is the first "problem" with the vehicle and it's at about 98K.
So yesterday I was driving from a stoplight and for the second time in as many links, the car did something I've never experience and any of my vehicles before. It rev'd through 1-2-3 and on the 3-4 shift the rpms just held at 3k and it almost seemed the engine had lost all power or maybe I guess come to think of it seemed like the transmission was slipping. I know it had the TSB for the hard shifts which was for 1-2 and 3-4 if I remember right. I'm going to take it to the dealer but I know them by now that if I give them a general problem that isn't happening at that moment, then they'll say everything is working properly. Like I mentioned before, this is only the second time over the life of the car (45k miles) that this has been experience when I was in the car.
View 1 RepliesThe engine light in my 2001 Passat all of a sudden started blinking when I started it this afternoon - for no apparent reason. It feels like it's going to stall and is idling kind of loud.
View 3 RepliesToday on the way to work at a red light I'm stopped light turns green I try and go and no power in fact when I hit the gas my rpms go lower first thing I think is I fried the clutch but it idles fine an when I hit the gas rpms go down and the at wants to bog out. Then after I get it towed home I try and crank it over it doesn't start. My thinking then is fuel. So I go to check the fuses everything is fine when I try and crank the car to start it you can hear the fuel pump kick on and then when I go to turn it over I only have crank so could it be the fuel line is clogged? I thought that if it was an injector it would start and just smoke bad. It's a 1.8t Aeb engine and yes I change my oil every 3 k miles and do all the work myself.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 prius jap import. On a trip it beeped and up came the triangle, check engine light and car with !. The car lost all power and the engine stalled when I pulled over. I plugged in my obd2 scanner and no codes except 3000. Took it to our local toyota dealer who confirmed that code. Had the battery swapped out and still it does the same except now no codes. The car has below normal pickup speed and I can hear the engine rev a little but it does not seem to make any difference. Seems all the power comes from the battery. It will stall when all the error lights come on.
View 4 RepliesMy friend's Jetta was running fine. One day about to drive out of the driveway it started doing 2 things:
1. Felt like it lost power braking, just stopping by manual effort by pushing down pedal hard.
2. Engine stalling unless you keep the gas pedal depressed and holding the engine to about 3,000.
Car currently sidelined until this is fixed... Having the brakes go like that at the same time is strange so where to start. Brake fluid level is fine.
My problem is on wed I was driving my car,when I suddenly lost acceleration power, after pulling over to the side of the road I turned off the car and restarted it. However I still had the same problem with acceleration. After a while of trying to get the car to start I called a tow truck and got it towed to the dealer. When I got there they told me it was likely and issue with with a sensor on the gas pedal and the engine. At the dealership I started the car to show them the problem however the car drove perfectly and no engine light came on.
They told me it was most like what they said over the phone the sensors. However on xmas eve they called me and left a voicemail saying the rear cat had went out and taken out both rear exhaust manifolds and it would coast $3000 to fix. My question is how can all that happen without the checking engine light coming on in the car and the car showing no problems while i was driving it and how did they miss it when I had took the car in two weeks earlier for regular maintenance and to correct a drive belt issue due to it walking after I purchased a new drive belt and pulley.
I am new the forum but I wanted to get some information about the apparent turbo failure problem the 2012-2014 TDIs seem to be having. On other forums I have read numerous premature turbo failures. Also how long did it take to get the new parts and complete the repair. My car at this point will be in the shop for over a week. At the point when the car broke down I did not really know what was going on. The glow plug light was blinking and I immediately lost a significant amount of power. Do I need to worry about any internal engine damage from a blown turbo? I was able to get the car to the dealer at a very slow speed in a very short amount of time but this is my first diesel and first turbo so I could use some information.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Solara V-6. I was driving down the street with no indication of what was about to happen. All of the sudden my check engine light came on and the car lost all power. I had the car towed home and had a mechanic look at it he put his scanner on it and I'm not sure what codes if any came up but he decided it was the ECM so he found a used one with a warranty and ordered it, he put it in and it did the same thing it turns over but wont start. What could it be ?
View 13 RepliesI went for a drive in my new truck and hadn't put the pedal down until now. its really cold here (5f, or -15c). Anyways so i waited for the engine to get warm and then i put my foot down until i got to about 100km (60 mph). Everything was fine, I was on a gravel road so i turned around and did it again, this time i totally lost power once i hit around 60kmh. the check engine light flashed a few times, i tried again, same thing, this time the check engine light came on and stayed on.
I eased off the gas a bit, then came to a full stop a little ways down the road. I tried again and this time i had full power, though i didn't take it to 100kms because there were icy patches all over the road and the truck went a little sidways. The check engine light was off, and i tried one more time after that and got up to 100 and everything was fine and the check engine light never came back.
I'm worried, my first real truck here, what happened?? Also when i stopped the truck i had a listen to the engine, everything seemed normal, but I've noticed before there seems to be a clacking sound almost, not sure if this is normal with a 5.4? I had a 2.2 litre sonoma before this so I'm new to all this.
I have a 2011 f250 with the 6.2 liter gas engine. Lost power and the check engine light came on. I pulled the codes and it is a camshaft position sensor and 4 other codes for misfire on all cylinder for that bank. I can't find any info on where the sensor is located or how to replace it.
View 2 RepliesDriving along, suddenly lost gears, engine revved a slight bit then lost power and stalled, the engine turns over but will not start but when it turns its in a lower key sound, the timing belt is in place but has recently been changed, would you think it has slipped? Seems a total lack of combustion in the top of the engine, would a slipped timing belt cause this?
View 4 RepliesI have had a check engine light on in my car for a while now. I am pretty sure that it deals with the disconnection of the vacuum servo that controls the intake manifold's flaps that designate which track the air takes through the manifold. It has been running fine like this for a while under the assumption that because the performance of the vehicle hasn't changed, there is no need for immediate repair.
Here is my new problem which I am trying to determine if it has to do with the above issue. Over the past few days my car has been giving me EPC and ASR lights along with switching to back-up power. I have been on expressways driving 80, i have been going around corners doing less than 20, and it has happened everywhere in between. Keep in mind that when it happens i slip my car into neutral, pull over, and reboot. After that everything is fine for a short while. I stopped at Auto Zone to get a diagnostic, and for some reason, which i did not feel like questioning due to the way the autozone employee was mentally equipped, they did not give me codes, but descriptions.
(1) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 1
(2) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 2
(3) PCM Processor Fault
(4) Running too lean on Bank 1
(5) Running too lean on bank 2.
These are the descriptions for the 5 fault codes. I am planning on stopping back today and getting the proper codes. But would like to get some opinions in the mean time. I've check fuses and relays pertaining to this issue and all have tested ok. Nothing is leaking from my engine and nothing is visibly damaged, except for the vacuum servo arm which is broken (see above paragraph). I feel like the issue is with the ECM (PCM, PCM, ECU, whatever).
Another interesting thing is that when i operate my car using the cruise control, there are no issues what so ever. Possibly an issue with the throttle or its many components?
Recently had battery problem on the Passat. I had to have the car jumped and the stereo was on. Now I have no power at all to the stereo, everything else seems to work fine. I checked fuse panel, no blown fuses. Is there a separate fuse or breaker for the Monsoon system.
View 2 RepliesI think I have a busted dv. The car has lost all power feels like I have no turbo. One code when looked up says it could be a possible busted dv but can the other 2 problems be caused by this?? Also if I drive it very easy until the part comes Monday can I damage my car??
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.3
Data version: 20101206
Friday,15,April,2011,16:33:40:16973
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 25 37 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWEK73C76P109439 Mileage: 83400km/51822miles
[Code] .....
I currently own a 07 Toyota Camry Hybrid & the check "VSC" light came on and I lost power to my brakes. What does the light have to do with the power to brakes?
View 3 RepliesI purchased my 2001 Nissan Sentra about 4 weeks ago and the check engine light came on about a week into owning it. I scheduled an appointment to get it checked, but continued to drive it without issue until one day I started it and as soon as I began driving it lost power. The more gas I gave it, the worse it got. It just wouldn't let me go anywhere. So I parked the car and let it sit for about an hour. Then when I went back to show someone else the problem, the car started and drove again like nothing was wrong. Since then, this has been happening frequently. I will start the car, it will spit and sputter and lose power, I will turn the car off and wait a while, it will start up again no problem.
My local mechanic told me the computer was throwing a bunch of different codes, including the one for the catalytic converters. They also told me that since the problem seems electrical (the car seems to reset itself when I turn it off) it could be that the computer is going and that’s what needs to be replaced. I've taken the car back to the dealership where I bought it, they replaced the oxygen sensors, thinking that would fix the problem. I just got the car back yesterday and drove it for about 60 miles without any problems, then that check engine light came back on and the same old problem is back. My question is, how do I know if the problem is mechanical or electrical? What if I replace the catalytic converters when it’s actually the computer that was the problem all along or vice versa?
2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
View 1 RepliesI bought my van in 2011 from my dad's former employer. It was a fleet vehicle and wasn't in the greatest of condition when I bought it. In 2012 I was told that I had a leak in my oil pan from a mechanic. I never ended up getting it fixed for various reasons. A few months ago, I lost power steering in my van and have been driving since without it. My dad wanted to see if anything could be done to fix it and found out the van is completely rusted underneath and ended up puncturing a hole in the bottom when he tried to jack the thing up. I am really hoping to get a (new) used car but don't have the money right now. I was wondering though how long would you expect I could "survive" with my car like this?
View 16 Replies