Passat (B5) :: 2001 - Car Starting In EPC Mode After Like 8 Seconds On The Ignition
Jan 16, 2008
I have a 1.8T 2001.5 Passat, Tiptronic with an Upsolute chip. I recently had the turbo replaced (under warranty for the same stock one). After the turbo reinstall, the car did this after driving it a while: I ran it hard and spooled up the turbo good a few times, and then parked the car. I would wait 45-60 minutes. When I tried to start the car it wouldn't start for like 8 seconds on the ignition, and then it would start but in EPC mode!
The first time this happened I panicked, drove it home (just to make sure I got home.) I then tried again and it started fine and no more EPC. Also, if I wait much longer like 3 or 4 hours, it never happens. Since the first time, this has happened like 10 times or more. But now, I just turn it off right after it starts in EPC, turn it again, and it works fine.
The first time it happened I got some kind of codes, but I didn't save them and cleared them. I figured since it happened again, I would get the codes again, but they're not there. I took it to the dealer, and of course, they can't duplicate it. The codes where like speed implausible or not there or something but I can't remember now.
The master mechanic told me to vapor lock was not possible because I had no carb, but I seem to remember that my '83 fuel injects 280ZX turbo had a special cooler fan to cool down the injectors in the event of vapor lock after the car shut down so I'm pretty sure this is possible with injectors. I mean, the explanation for that fan was so that if the remaining fuel in the injectors would get so hot after car shut down that it would vaporize the fuel and the pressure would lock up the injectors.
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When I start the ignition, the horn goes off for about 1 or 2 seconds. While engine is on the horn is not operational (I press and nothing).
2006 Passat 2.0T
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just wondering what are the problems typically associated with a long start up. it took about 8-10 seconds from the time i put in the key fob to ignition. it was especially cold and windy today, so i know the cold had something to do with it.
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Our check engine light came on earlier this summer. A local mechanic who supposedly specializes in German autos said there was a vapor lock leak in the fuel system. He replace our gas cap and reset the warning light. A few weeks later the light came back on. This time he replaced fuel pump and reset the warning light. This created a new problem: when you turn on the ignition it now takes 20-30 seconds before the car ignites/starts. The engine turns over but takes that long to start. If you turn the ignition on and then quickly turn if off and then on again it starts immediately.
A few weeks went by and the check engine light came on again. I took it to a new mechanic. He said the fuel pump appeared to be fine and replaced a fuel line sensor. This didn't work at all as far as I can tell.
Now the check engine light is back on and we still have the prolonged starting problem. Now that the temps are cold the starting issue does seem a little better.
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A few months back, I posted a problem with my '01 prius: engine knocking for @30 sec when first starting up. Does NOT happen on first start of day, only on subsequent ones. Random misfires not corrected by changing coils/plug. It's been in the shop for awhile, and no diagnosis. I'm ready to sell the thing, unless there is a quick fix. New hybrid battery 20# miles ago; used transaxle 10# miles ago (with 1.5 yrs left on 2 yr warranty); new tires 10 miles ago. Has 185,000 miles.
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2001 Prius. Within 15 seconds of starting the engine, I captured the screeching sound from the engine bay. Noise went away after about 20 seconds. New serpentine belt and new 12v battery installed. Pass dealer 27-point check. Transmission fluid, inverter fluid, high voltage battery were replaced about 18,000 miles ago. Current mileage 174,000.
Noise is not from the serpentine belt. I attached a mp3 file of the sound. "2001 Prius Noise.MP3" ..... Which component is making this noise?
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The key in my 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe is rotating freely without starting the car. The Accessories are always on and I had to disconnect the battery to prevent drainage. I removed the lock cylinder and found a small camshaft like part that seems to be loose and broken, one piece of it seems to be broken in the switch. Is there anywhere I can get this camshaft like part? I searched but can only find either the lock cylinder or the switch. See the attached pic for the part I am talking about.
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Yesterday I started the car, backed out of the driveway, and as I was starting out in first I heard a screech-like sound for about 3 seconds, then it disappeared. It sounded like a belt or pulley might be slipping. There was no smell and the car ran fine and quiet after that.
I'm beginning to get worried with this car. I have a check engine light on, the suspension is clanking again, and I saw an abs light for about 5 minutes one day a couple of months ago. My wife claims to have heard a grinding sound in second, but I haven't heard it yet. I'm at 6 years, 3 months of ownership, with 85 K on the ODO. It seems like these cars are designed to drive worry free for about 80K. After that, things just start falling apart. I really wanted to make it past 100K, but now I'm not so sure...
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I have an '01 Prius, 185,000 miles. A few years ago, it developed an engine (?) knock immediately after starting; disappears after 30 sec. It has gotten progressively louder and now runs very rough during those 30 sec. After that, just hums along.
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Pretty soon this thing's gonna have ALL new parts and STILL running rough! The Jeep has about 40K on a Jasper motor, 175K on everything else. I was experiencing starting issues (crank for 20-30 seconds), and noticed a P0171 code on my odometer (O2 sensor?) so off to my mechanic. He replaced two O2 sensors, no change. New code read MAP sensor, replaced, no change.
Finally, changed Fuel Pump in tank (Fuel filter was changed 2 months ago), still no change. I tried starting it tonight by turning the key 5-10 sec. to prime gas, started but still rough at idle. Runs strong above idle 1500-2000RPM. Mechanic can't check fuel pressure at rails? for some reason. My next thoughts were spark plugs and vacuum lines...
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My daughter drives a 2005 Passat station wagon, has a small child and one on the way. She has had intermittent problems with the car just not wanting to crank. After sitting 15-20 minutes it will crank. But the wait and not knowing if it will crank is taxing me and her. Especially since she has another one on the way. She has taken it to a reputable mechanic. They kept it for 3 days, cranking it on and off without a problem, and told her they couldn't find anything.
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My AC always defaults to Recirculation mode the first time I use it after starting the car even though Auto mode is off.
Can I change this to default to fresh air mode?
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Couldn't find what it's called in the OM, it turns on my gauges and my low battery, epc, and CEL was on. But when I start the car, no codes are shown. Previously my Epc and CEL were on, not sure about battery.
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Sometimes while cruising at moderate to highway speed I'll go full throttle (to pass, merge, etc.), but the car just revs for about three seconds then catches a gear. It has happened in D and S mode. I've taken it in to the dealer and they checked for any codes, but there weren't any.
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Last night, I was cruising at 35mph and the car suddenly stalled. All the lights popped up (red triangle, CEL and PROBLEM on the the center display) and I pulled over to a stop. I tried restarting it immediately, but the car would not go into ignition mode. The car was driving fine up to that point. No maintenance or work was performed on the car recently. When in accessory mode, all the lights, radio, etc. worked. I disconnected the 12v battery for 5 minutes but it had no affect. I searched the forum, but did not find a thread about this occurrence. I rented a OBDII scanner but it needs to get into the IGN mode to read the codes! What is the problem? A simple faulty switch or relay?
Video : [URL] ....
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I parked my 2011 Sonata yesterday and turned it off.
This morning, I tried turning the car on, but there is no ignition. I can put in the key, turn it to accessory mode (the dash lights up), but once I turn the key further to ignition nothing happens (no noise). I don't think I have a dead battery.
My brother had this problem once before. It has something to do with the fact that the gear is not in 'P'. He managed to start it after he called roadside assistance, but I don't know what he did. The gear is currently at 'P'. I was supposed to go and get my range switch replaced today to fix this but I can't get it out of the driveway.
What I need to do to get it to start?
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I have a 2011 Gen3. It's driving perfectly. Its charging when being driven by the ICE as normal. Its also charging by regen braking. However, when the car is 'stationary' with full EV battery- and when it looses its charge with lights, fans etc, it cuts out. When the battery indicator drops to the normal 2 bars, the engine falls back to 'ignition on' mode (i.e the dash lights illuminate and the steering goes heavy)
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My passenger side HL occasionally doesn't come alive at ignition when the light control dial/switch is set on Auto mode. My dealer cannot duplicate the problem.
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This morning when I sit in my prius, engaged brake and pressed ON, I was surprised that the car was not starting. In fact in was in a status between OFF and IG-ON mode. The cabin lights were on, so as the head lights. The dash was lighted, but weird: the fuel indicator shown empty, though it was filled two days ago and the central screen was not lighted, so it was not the IG-ON mode in which the central screen should be lighted.
I cannot switch from the P mode, and I don't remember whether I saw the "ready" on the dash. I turned the system OFF and repeated the procedure but it was on the same situation. I was a bit panic, looking at the manual and after few minuets I decided to try again. And surprisingly it backed to normal. I drove it all the way to work and didn't notice anything wrong.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 189K on it and noticed that it takes several seconds (4 to 5 seconds) of cranking before the car starts. When the car was newer, it used to crank quicker.
Here is what I have done so far:
- Changed all spark plugs @ dealer using iridium type
- Always used Premium Fuel (Petro Canada 91 grade)
- Put in a bottle of injector cleaner (Redline Complete Fuel System Cleaner)
- Throttle Body has been cleaned about 20K ago
- Oil changes are Mobil 1 5W30 year round with Denso Filter
- Battery was replaced last year with an Optima Red Top and was tested a few months back to be in excellent working order.
What I have observed is that when the weather is VERY cold outside (i.e. -20), it seems to crank quicker, but if I keep my car parked in my garage overnight and start it, it takes several seconds. I have never had the car not start on me so that's a good thing.
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I recently purchased a 2006 Avalon XLS, 120,000 miles. About 25% of the time, it will crank for several seconds without starting. Turn off the key momentarily and try again, it fires right up every time. This tends to happen when setting for an hour or more, but can also happen after just a few minutes. My first thought is fuel pressure, but can't find a good spot to attach a pressure gauge.
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