CEL light stays on for a few days, then will go off for a few, and vise versa. car doesn't run rough, but sometimes doesn't want to crank. can the purge valve cause that, and could it cause a misfire code? and how can i disconnect it, or what can i do to see if it will make a difference without the purge valve connected and working? BTW, what is a purge valve?
View 1 RepliesMy 97 Passats CEL stays on all the time. The shop I took it to told me that the computer was bad. I bought a new one and now the engine won't turn over. What could be a possible issue?
View 13 Repliesi have a b.5.5 V6 4motion and My check engine stays on the majority of the time. I've had a tech check the code and he tells me its my Evap system. The same tech told me that it was actually pretty useless to repair the problem unless the check engine light bothers me..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
View 2 RepliesIs this normal, even when the car is locked ? I'm asking the question because I got a dead left battery, and noticed (once it was charged again) that the display between the speedometer and the rev counter stayed on all the time...
View 14 RepliesRight turn signal stays on all the time. What's up?
View 2 RepliesI have a 93 Buick Lesabre and the ABS light was coming on and off for about three weeks.Now it stays on all the time. Just recently I had the brakes completely lock up on me. In my car you have to apply pressure to the brakes to even get the car to shift into gear. The car will drive for about a mile and then all of a sudden the brake pedal is completely hard and the car will not roll forward. It does it completely fine in reverse. My calipers are good and there is no sound of them locking up. The pads are in good condition.Then after this happened to me twice in a two mile drive, struggling to get it home... now a light in the dash flashes SECURITY. It is strange and I know my brakes are in good condition and there is no abnormal wear and tear.
View 4 RepliesMy 2008 Prius battery stays blue all the time and my MPG went 43 from 51MPG. Two days ago I drove almost 600 miles but battery sign didn't go to green. I dont know if is there any problem with my car? NO CIL.
View 17 RepliesMy E-brake light stays on all of the time. I have cleaned the sensor and adjusted the pads on the drum. Any reason why the light stays on? Its driving me crazy.
View 14 RepliesThe gas gauge on my 2008 does not seem accurate. I had three bars left the other day and when I filled up it took 6.5 gallons. Normally with three bars it only takes 5.5 gallons. Also, it stays on "full" (all bars) a long time.
View 4 Replies04 Explorer XLT, 4dr. 4wd, 4.0 engine - after replacing front rotors and pads the "4X4 High" indicator light flashes then pauses then flashes again. Did I brake something, what is the cause and how do I fix it. ABS light stays on all the time.
View 1 RepliesStays open all the time. I'm guessing there is a spring somewhere that closes it. Is there a parts breakdown I can look at? I've looked around some but haven't found anything that looks related to this. 1997 F150....
View 1 RepliesThe headlight beam height can be adjusted from inside the car. But even when not fiddling with the dial, I hear an electric motor sounding noise from them time to time, just a short <1s whirring sound. I listen with the bonnet open and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the headlights. Is this normal? is there any way I can stop it?
View 3 Repliesmy 2003 f-250 4x4 6.0 engine service light stays on all the time (for about 2 weeks now) it has 33,323 miles on it. it is running fine-no problems yet. no codes are showing up on a diagnostic test. What is going on?
View 10 RepliesHere are some signs of the problem.
*Key fob does not work - battery is good.
*Interior overhead light works only on manual.
*Driver's auto door lock (with driver door open) will lock all four doors but the driver's door will automatically open back. To secure the truck I manually lock the driver's door.
*I replaced the driver's door 'ajar switch' with no results. The old switch was good after testing - normally closed until the ball is depressed then it goes to open.
*No codes.
*I just checked all the mini-fuses with a VOM and they are good.
*Could one of the relays be part of the problem?
I am curious if there is a scanner that can identify the bad door ajar switch if any?
From what I have read so far it appears the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) may be bad as a many of these 2002's complain of this problem and the VSM generally solves the issues. Are there folks other than the dealerships that can program the module if I purchase a new one and remove the old OEM one? Other than the inconvenience the truck runs fine other wise.
So ive had a starting issue in the R32 for quite some time now. With waterfest approaching and the new S3 going into production that i ordered, it has come time to finally fix it. I have taken in to many dealerships and very talented techs, and no one has any idea. The car seems to crank for a very long time or start right up and then just completely stall and die. The second time i start it, it starts completely fine like nothing ever happened. This only happens when the car sits for a few hours. It has never done it if the car has sit overnight or during the cold months. It has to be warm and sit for a specific amount of time. Its like it catches the car transferring into a cold start but not fully cold yet, if that makes sense. Also i am now noticing a small squeak each time it starts, like a belt. I have replaced the fuel pump/spark plugs/coil packs. Nothing has changed. We thought maybe a stuck injector but were doubtful as its not constant. Im debating a cam position sensor just to see if thats the issue. There is no CEL or any codes.
View 12 RepliesRandom issue that has progressively been getting worse. I'm assuming it's one of those Sonata quirks that we all deal with.
When you turn the key the starter doesn't try to crank the engine. AC stuff all works properly. I just keep turning and eventually it will turn on.
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I have a 2006 Sonata GLS with the 3.3L V6 and close to 230,000 miles. A few months ago I noticed that my crank time at starting was longer than typically - it has steadily gotten worse.
Now the crank time is close to 8 - 10 seconds. (Which might not seem like much but trust me, it is).
I suspected that the fuel pump was faulty, however, once started - it runs great.
I put a pressure gauge on the fuel pump outlet and found that it only kicks the pump on when the car is cranking, the fuel pump does not kick on when the key is in the "on" position. Once the vehicle starts, it seems to be drawing fuel.
The pump has all sorts of pressure, I am not worried about that.
I decided to change the Fuel pressure regulator valve thinking that maybe it wasn't holding pressure - That didn't seem to do anything.
Do I need to change the entire Fuel Pump Assembly?
I purchased my 2012 SE in October, and since that time, I've noticed that after it has sat for a few hours between starts (first thing in the morning, leaving work, etc.) it takes longer than other times for it to crank-over and start. At other times, it starts right away. I know that the fuel pump kicks in when you open the door initially, and perhaps I am trying to start it too soon. This is my first VW, so, before I worry that something needs to be checked out (due for the "courtesy check" anyway) I wanted to make sure this was not a common thing, or something I am doing wrong (didn't think I could mess up starting the thing...)
View 1 Replies1996 GMC Jimmy SLS. I've looked at the "starting issue" threads in this forum but none are quite the same as mine. When you initially try to start the Jimmy (cold or warm), it seems to just crank for 20-30 seconds before it even tries to fire. New plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Battery is 2 months old, and so is the alternator. What about the relays or starter. It's not an intermittent problem either. This happens EVERY time you start the vehicle. The jimmy sat for a good while before we bought it, but would that cause the starting issue? It seems to run fine after it starts, but hesitates (stumbles)a little coming up off idle when its warm.
View 5 RepliesI own 2013 Mk6 GTI. I am having to over crank the engine for a period of 8 seconds or so before the car starts, especially after it has been sitting for a few hours. My thought was a faulty check valve in the fuel pump. I have heard that our fuel filter has a built in pressure regulator that may get stuck open for whatever reason and that may also cause a long crank time.
View 9 Replies