A buddy of mine has a late 2000 passat 2.8. He recently developed a bad knocking at higher RPM's. I took a look at it and it is coming from the bottom end of the motor (rod bearing, crank bearing?) He has no loss of power and the knock is not there at idle.
View 2 RepliesMy Infiniti I30, 2000 model, has been great for so many years. I got 245,000 miles on it and seems that it will go for another 245000. But, since last 15 days, I can feel a distinct knock from the bottom of the car ( it feels so). This happens after about 30 minutes of driving and I can feel and hear the knock when the car is stopped at a light or stop sign. The sound comes like every few seconds at uneven pace. I cannot hear it when car is moving. My mechanic changed the Air intake sensor ( pretty expensive) but the problem still persists. I put super unleaded and also STP engine treatment. The problem continues. Car is working fine otherwise.
View 6 RepliesI've got a 97 truck, broke the crank, swapped in a motor from an 07. Heads down is 07, intake up is 97. had heads planed and a valve job with new seals done. Left it alone from the rings down. Got it in this weekend, running today. Ran it in the driveway with no load for about 30 minutes, top end was noisy for about 5 minutes till the top end got good and oily (I'm assuming). Purred like a kitten, sounded real smooth. Took it for a drive around the block, heard the clatter in the video below. It's almost always there when driving. Brought it back, turned it off to check oil, it was a quart low. Added oil, startup was VERY labored with a real hard knock in the bottom end. Ran like poo till I gave it some throttle for a couple seconds, then it cleaned up and idled well. Let it run for a couple minutes, turned off and let it sit for a couple minutes then started back up, same thing. Very labored with hard knocking.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
I have a knock on the passenger side front of my 2001 passat 2.8L 5speed. It knocks whenever i give it gas, whether its while im letting the clutch out or not. It has been getting worse. At first i thought it could be a tranny mount but the one underneath the car on the passenger side looks perfectly fine.
View 4 Replies2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
View 5 RepliesEarlier this week, noticed that my car was surging on its own; basically, if I came to a stop, I could still feel the engine, like it wanted to just take off. And if I would have taken my foot off the pedal, it would have done just that. Also, I knew the car had gas, but sometimes, when starting the car it would not start at all. I would have to wait about 5 minutes or so and add major gas to it with the pedal and then finally it would engage. And then the last thing was that when I would get to my destination and put it in Park, the RPMs would go up to about 1500 or so, maybe a bit higher and then stay there and go back down to about 1000, without me pressing on the gas pedal at all. So anyway, thought it was the throttle position sensor, so I had my Dad install a new one on the car. It was a pretty easy process and thought that took care of the problem.
The surging part basically stopped, so the new TPS took care of that, but then it still had problems with starting. Took it to a car repair place the next day and they changed out the spark plugs, said that they were causing a misfire in the engine. Also changed ignition wires and a new gasket. So after they were done, drove away and all seemed to be fine, but then went to the dentist and Parked and then the RPMs went up again. Tried to start it immediately afterwards and it wouldn't start again. Tried a few minutes later, added gas with the pedal and it did start. Took it back to the car repair place, they drove it around, inspected everything and everything checked out fine. (Yeah, of course!) Ok, so just thought maybe the repairs were taking a bit to take effect. But later in the day, wouldn't start again.
So next morning, took it to the Hyundai dealer. They looked at everything for about 2 hrs, and said that there was a vacuum hose that was leaking, so they put on a new clamp but everything else checked out okay. Ok, so now it starts fine every time, but today it did that high RPM thing again when I put it into Park. It doesn't do it every time, but the RPM will just go up randomly then go back down and go back to normal. Should I clean the IAC with some type of carb cleaner to get out any carbon deposits? Or could it be a bad MAF sensor? Not sure what the symptoms are of that. Everything else seems to be okay now except for the random high RPMs when in Park and sometimes at startup too.
It's a 2 WD, V6 engine.
So last weekend I pulled off my OEM Rev D DV, and replaced it with the OEM Rev G that came with the car. While doing that I lost one of the bolts. Had a nice BoV sound for a day (sarcasm) took it to the dealer to buy the bolt, they suggested warranty work (CPO) and they reattached the DV.
Since then, at high RPMs only, there is a loud whine...concerned and planning to pull the dv off tomorrow to look...and recheck my BSH intake.
This noise is totally new. Just wondering on what else it could be...also slightly friday night liquid lights...
2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
Three months ago I acquired a car from my brother. It was a 2001 hyundia accent gsi. The car had sat unused for 10 months and because of this I had to put some work into it. It has a new battery, new starter and new engine belts because one snapped upon start up the first times. I have also had the oil changed.
For some reason it is reving really high. At about 100km/hr it revs at about 4000rpm. I have talked to my brother and he said it did not do this before. It is changing gears because I can hear it and watch the rpm's drop before going back up. In 3rd gear at 60 km/hr it revs at about 2100 rpm's.
My friend was having trouble with her 2001 elantra. Her idle was erratic and her RPMs were constantly high. we checked every where for a vacuum leak but could not find one in any of the lines. We went on to switch out the idle air control valve, the throttle position sensor, and even cleaned out her throttle body. we threw up our hands and sent it to a shop. Come to find out there WAS a vacuum leak. apparently in the air idle control valve sensor there is a gasket that seemed to be missing. I of course didn't think about replacing a gasket when I replaced the sensor because I never saw one there.
View 1 Replies2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
I had my Honda Odyssey transmission replaced 2 years ago. The past few months, in the first mile that I drive the car on streets in our neighborhood, the car goes into high RPMs (about 3000) before it seems to drop into gear. It does this 2 or 3 times then works fine after that. The "Check engine" light is now on all the time. Sometimes, the car does one other weird thing--the high RPMs end with the drive/D4 light flashing on and off like a blinker (even if I change gears to D3. When this happens, if I turn the ignition off it comes back on and seems to function fine. I have had it back to the shop that did the work about 4-5 times to get it right. I like the guys but each time they return it to me, the problem remains. I took a 2000 mile trip with it and with the exception of this persistent problem, the van worked fine.
View 2 RepliesIt looks like, I have the problem with my 2009 Prius, but i was wondering : don't you need any purge of the cooling system after this work is done ? Is there any chance that some air might come into the cooling system during the "clamp" session?
View 2 Replies2002 F-350SD V10 Automatic. Running down the road with no load or with load. First gauges bottom out, next overspeed light starts flashing, engine goes to 3000 RPM on it's own. Stays that way until I shut off then restart. Sometimes it does this several times in one mile.
Second trick, again driving along, all gauges stay up but engine just stops. Got to set dead for 5 minutes before it will start. The shop says on the first problem this happens: Voltage goes way low then goes way high then everything starts failing. We changed battery but no luck. Got to be down line from battery.
2003 jetta gls 1.8t 5spd - gts stage 1 tune(gonzo stage 2)
tt 2-1/2" downpipe with high flow cat
turbo smart splitter valve(set to divert only)
turbo inlet pipe
homemade intake with k&n filter
stock n75 valve (f)
So in first through 3rd gear my car gets 20psi of boost then at 3,500 ish rpm smoothly starts to lower down to 15psi. but in forth and 5th gear the boost drops faster, enough so the diverter valve actually opens. then the boost will bounce up and down, around 15psi. the car still accelerates but with obvious power loss.
Is my diverter valve not "firm" enough? it is adjustable, so I've tightened it as much as it can. it doesn't seem to change anything. it came with spring spacers to make it tighter, but I haven't tried that yet.
Is it something with the tune? not enough fuel, need bigger injectors? The problem is only at about 100mph, so its not a big deal. I would like to get it straightened out if possible.
09 Ford Fusion, 5-sd manual, 37k. For the past week or so I've noticed after exiting the highway and stopping at the bottom of the ramp the engine will idle high. When I shift into neutral to wait at the light it idles at about 1,500 - 1,800 rpm. I will slowly drop to about 1,000 rpm and quickly drop from that to 750 rpm which is the normal idle. When getting off the ramp yesterday I put it in neutral while coasting and not touching the gas pedal, clutch or anything, the idle went from 1,500 to 2,000 rpm. Driving around town it seems normal, and the car drives normally with no issues on the highway up until I stop. What could be causing the weird idle issue?
View 11 RepliesI was cruising at around 80 mph and the epc and check engine light flashed for a second, and I felt a slight loss of power for a second then it was normal after that. When I pulled over and check out the engine, it was making this noise (video) when I got home, I scanned it with my vagcom and got P0333 knock sensor signal too high, maf sensor signal low, and a clutch pedal switch I've replaced the bushings on the intake rod with the gruven bushings and the sound is still there.
View 11 RepliesMy buddy just bought a vr6 2001 and it has a problem! the previous owner said it had an oil leak and didn't notice it until it started ticking! ok not a big deal! we changed what was left of the oil with semi synthetic 5w20, and put a new filter on it! figured out that the oil was leaking out of the filter gasket , how he didn't notice is beyond me! now the ticking has gotten quiet BUT now it idles high! there is now CEL and the previous owner said it did not do it before the ticking! so my question is how did running low on oil, and POSSIBLY messing up a lifter or two cause it to be idling high? It only idles high in park between 1 and 2000 rpm!
View 1 RepliesJust picked up my car from the shop last night. Had a full tune up, air filter replaced, radiator upper hose replaced (was leaking), transmission service and an oil change. When I picked up the car at night I heard that it sounded a little off when starting but I was so excited to have it back that I drove it home. Once I was on the freeway, no weird noises and it drove perfectly fine. This morning when I started it up again the sound was there again. I can only explain it as a sort of high pitched humming. I pulled away from the curb and it made more noise - I heard that sound once when I needed power steering fluid. I put the car in park and popped the hood. Power steering fluid was full. My mom suggested I restart the car so she could hear the sound. This time when I started the car it sounded fine. Typical.
I drove it to work and it drove fine and never made that noise again.
(car is a VW Passat 01')
I just changed the oil in the 04 GLS. It looks like the intercooler is leaking at the bottom hose. It does leave marks on the garage floor. Also I may have rear main seal leak too.
The car has 45K on it