Idles ok in park and neutral. Gets worse while in gear. Car has high miles around 160.000. Fuel injection flush? Fuel Filter? Vacuum leak, and where to look first? No check engine light, no misfire codes just a rough idle when in gear.
View 3 RepliesStarts fine. Runs fine till warmed up. Then dies at idle and runs rough on gear till 1000 rpm. Has only coded iac when unplugged. But would idle with it unplugged. I replaced it. Also got crank can code once while checking it ...
2001 dodge ram 1500 318 engine ....
I have a 2001 VW Passat Wagon 1.8t AUG. A couple of months ago, I took it into my shop for a check engine light. The did the following work on the vehicle:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced broken oil level sensor
Replaced outer CV boots
Resealed my transmission pan (it was leaking)
Replaced bad vacuum hoses
When I got the car back, it was idling really rough, and one time it even stalled. Just after starting it, when I hit the gas it wouldn't respond immediately and sputtered for a little while. Once I got going it was usually OK, unless I was going uphill...where it wouldn't perform as well and the engine noise kinda wavered. I also noticed that my gas mileage wasn't nearly as good as it used to be. (I never experienced any problems like this before they did this work) So I took it back to the shop and they replaced both the front and rear 02 sensors. I still had the same problem, so I took it back, and they replaced the fuel filter. Still has the same problem.
The light came on after a month, so I took it back and it was the random cylinder misfire code...and they said that didn't really know what to do about it. So I decided to take matters into my own hands. I cleaned the MAF sensor they installed (took it out and sprayed it with cleaner) nothing. I replaced the spark plugs and while doing so found that one of my ignition coils was bad, and I replaced that as well. Turns out the AutoLite plugs that a local parts store sold me are crap for this engine (actually caused misfires) so I went and got Denso double platinum plugs the next day and put those in. And finally I changed my air filter. Still having problems.
The 2001 Passat 1.8lT has an engine warning light on and feels like it is running on less than all four cylinders.( very rough idle) This is the first time we have seen this particular warning light and the manual suggests that it has a problem with the catalytic convertor.( 170K miles on the car) The car had no symptoms until the light came on today and the car was serviced last week. ( oil change and new tires) It seems that every time I take the car in for service something goes haywire shortly afterward.
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2009 Camry LE (4 cylinder) about a week ago. It's only got 10K miles on it. Ever since I got the car, I've noticed a very slight vibration when stopped and in gear. It does this when the engine is cold and warm. It only does this when I am in gear with my foot on the brake and stopped. I still have warranty, should I bring it in to the dealer? Is there a simple fix for this? Or is this normal?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundia Sonata. I idles really bad like you pulled 5 of the six plug wires off when you put it in gear. Once you start moving a couple miles an hour it is fine. It is also perfect in park or neutral, not a hint of a problem. Put it in drive or reverse and it almost stalls.
View 13 RepliesI can not resolve a rough idle in gear when engine is warm problem. I've replaced plugs, wires, mounts, isc, o2 sensor, ecu, have no codes.
View 17 Replies2007 Sonata V6 with 72K miles.
The car has developed a rough idle while in gear (i.e. when stopped at a stop light) and park (i.e. after I start the car).
It's starting to get a little annoying since I'm used to a very smooth idle.
I think this issue started within the last 2-3k miles.
Plugs were allegedly changed at 30k. A full tuneup was done at that time.
Wires are still original.
So this morning when I started my car to warm up everything was fine. I went inside to make some coffee and I heard my idle change slightly and didn't think to much about it but when I got in I could feel my car shaking a little bit then when I pulled off my road there was a little hesitation in first gear taking off and when I would shift I would get a little rev hang between gears. So I've realized when idling its slightly fluctuating between 6-7 hundred rpm. I have no loss of power and it has not hesitated since the first take off. I'm thinking its something to deal with air. I checked my airbox and realized the bolt closest to the battery wasn't threaded so I fixed that and tried looking for any leaks but haven't found anything.
View 4 Replies2006 Sonata V6 with 98K miles. The car has developed a rough idle, sputter/lurch while in gear, but not park or neutral. No CEL/codes. Have already replaced the spark plugs (OE), throttle body/FI cleaned, MAF cleaned, new air filter, coil packs OK... Mechanic said no vac leaks, FI spray pattern good, good fuel pressure, etc. Vibration dampener looks ok, no separation or wobble. Another post mentioned a power steering pressure sensor, which I will have checked, but the mechanic is at a loss.
View 7 RepliesThis is a little odd. Over the last two years or so the van had developed a rough idle issue. When left to idle in Park or Neutral the roughness would usually lead to the engine stalling after a few minutes.This happened both in and out of gear but only when the engine was still cold, idle returned to normal once normal op temp had been reached. Cleaning the IAC got rid of the problem... sort of. Now it idles fine in Park or Neutral but when in gear and engine/tranny still cold it is still very rough.
When waiting at a traffic light with my foot on the brakes the van shudders as it tries to lurch forward, the shaking is very noticeable even to those outside the van. This has become so bad I shift it into Neutral every time I need to stop at a traffic light, and it instantly settles into steady smooth idle at 800 rpm. However once the engine is warm everything returns to normal. Another thing I noticed is that when in gear and cold the roughness only occurs with brakes applied. Feels like whenever the roughness in the engine occurs the transmission attempts to override the brakes, which causes the lurching.
While the problem only lasts 5 to 10 minutes until op temp is reached it is nevertheless very annoying and driving me nuts. My main concern is that it may eventually cause damage to the transmission to be tugged at and jerked around in such a way. I am running out of reasonable explanations as tho what may be causing this and have begun elaborating more esoteric theories. My latest one is that since this only happens when the brakes are applied then the tiny voltage required to activate the brake lights is somehow causing some other electric part to fail, and that the rough idle is somewhat related to this. Shows you just how desperate I'm getting.
2006 Sonata 2.4 (4-cyl)? My Sonnata has rough idle while stopped and in gear feels like it wants to lurch while holding the brake down, runs great at running speed. I did have the problem with it stalling while stopped but cleaning the throttle body remedied that problem. I've changed the spark plugs and one coil,the pcv valve, the front O2 sensor (with a universal spliced in sensor), and the air filter has been changed as well. I keep getting P0304 (cyl. 4 missfire) and P0032 (O2 sensor), I've swapped out both the coil and spark plug with another cylinder and the code still shows for cylinder 4. I've also checked for vacuum leaks and I can't find any.
View 4 RepliesI was driving on the highway today, and when I turned onto the exit ramp and put the car in neutral I noticed my gear shifter shaking back and forth pretty violently. I looked down at the tachometer and saw it idling at less than 200 rpm's in neutral. I got to the light and my car stalled. I turned it back on and I had to feather the gas pedal just to keep the car running. I was able to make it to my local car mechanic with one foot on the gas pedal and my hand on the e-brake. It runs a little rough when in gear but at least it keeps the rpm's up enough to stay running. The check engine light never came on. My guy said that he didn't have the appropriate diagnostic machine, but he's afraid I might need a new throttle body and a new computer which may cost 1000's of dollars. I think the code he told me that he found was P0506. He sent me to a guy that deals only with Japanese cars, but they won't be able to look at my car until Monday.
Any thoughts? Hopefully something that doesn't cost 1000's of dollars. And if I replace the throttle body does that mean I have to replace the computer too? Is there something that I did or that I didn't do that I should have been doing that could have caused this to break?
I just bought an 2006 f150 4x4 with a 5.4l 3valve, and this morning when I pulled into work it was idling Rough as I let off the gas and rolled into my parking spot. No check engine light or nothing, just when it's in gear Rpm is at 600-700 and vibrating. When I shifted it into neutral or park it went away and the engine ran smooth. According to the oil pressure gauge I've got good flow. I was told from the dealer that they replaced the cam phasers, timing chain and put new spark plugs in it. What the issue is here?
View 1 Replies1992 S10 Blazer, 4.3L, 4x4, TBI "Z"
When I start the truck, it idles rough, like it's idling too low, and even feels like it's missing during idle. Sometimes when I put it in gear (reverse or drive), it shuts off. No codes are being thrown. It has no problems driving around town or on the highway. It's just that initial start and idle.
I've checked all the following with a shop manual:
Ignition Control Mod.- Orig and 2nd one from junk yard. Both tested good at store. Even the testing in the shop manual with an ohm meter and battery tested good.
Ignition coil- tested good using shop manual testing
TPS- Scan shows .2-.7 at idle.
Plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are good.
Vacuum is good.
Haven't checked IAC, EGR
I recently moved cross country, and about halfway through, I broke down. Engine would turn over, fuel relay would click, injectors would work, but no fuel. Pulled it in to a truck shop, and after all my testing and theirs, we determined it was the fuel pump. After they had to fix a pinched hose, it ran. I made it to Texas. I didn't have the idle issues prior to the trip. Just had the tranny rebuilt and everything was great.
I thought, at first, the ignition control mod was the problem because it got a bit warm pulling the trailer, and I know those things don't like too much heat. No dice. So, what controls idle at Park and in gear but at idle? EGR, IAC?
I did a WinALDL scan. IAC at Park/Idle ranges from 18-55. The engine never runs in Open Loop. I would say the engine runs mostly rich according to the scan. I've attached a manageable version of the WinALDL data.
Also, I need to check the thermostat or temp sensor. Scan reads the engine never getting higher than 180.
My 2000 Echo (auto) developed a rough idle especially while in gear and with the AC running. It's a pretty rough vibration that seems to come from the left side (belt side) of the motor. When at a stop light with the AC off it is less pronounced.
Last year I had the belts and motor mounts replaced. Well let me rephrase.. I paid to have them replaced, not sure if they actually were. But the car ran great all year until the other day. The belts might be due for a replacement. They sometimes squeal in the morning as I accelerate from a stopped position while running the defrost. Also there is no CEL.
1994 Buick LeSabre Custom 3.8 Litre V6 with 103277 miles.
It runs smooth when idling in Park, rough when I put it in gear when I am stopped (either drive or reverse) has hesitation when accelerating, it smooths out again when driving then it starts to drive rough at about 55 MPH.
Mechanic told me it was the plug wires. I replaced those and the plugs. This fixed the hesitation when accelerating issue, but the other issues remain (now even seem a little worse) I thought the plugs and/or wires were bad, so I rechecked the gauge on the plugs and traced to make sure I had the wires hooked up right. Everything seems in order.
I have added fuel injector cleaner, and changed the oil, oil filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, air filter, flushed the radiator, and changed the thermostat. (For a tune up since it has admittedly been a while)....
I've just had my 2006 B6 fixed last monday....something with throttle body , fuel pressure sensor and transmission "flashed" since it was downshifting rough from 5th to 4th. Today while cruising on the highway at first "open gas cap" showed up so i pulled over turned engine off then back on, light was gone, then on may way from work engine light came ON out of nowhere so i have another appointment to have them look at it this coming sat.
View 4 Replies2001 windstar rough idle at warm up, start drive the van with cold engine for about 3-4 ml s, come to a light, stop, van starts rough idling, if I don't put it in neutral and hit the gas it will die ... after that , no problem .
View 13 RepliesI have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
View 12 RepliesMy 2001 Santa Fe is having some major issues with rough idling, and there is a fairly significant oil leak. The check engine light is not on. In the past year it has had a new fuel pump, fuel filter, valve gasket covers, spark plugs, spark plug cables, and transmission.
View 2 Replies