Passat (B5) :: 2000 VW Randomly Stalls And Hard To Start
Apr 29, 2008
I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
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I own a 2000 nissan altima GXE, and recently i have had a lot of problems, it would stall out randomly and OBD2 scanners said knock senor, EGR, and thermostat. I changed the knock sensor, cleaned the EGR valve and the EGR valve gasket, and haven't touched the thermostat. I changed other things like the crankshaft sensor, fuel filter, fuel pump is fine, alternator, valve cover gasket, and spark plugs. It started stalling all the time after I changed the rotor in the distributor cap, it stalled before but less than after we changed the rotor.
The car would stall randomly when the RPMs would go below 1000. I took it to my friends dad who is a mechanic and he was the one who changed the PCV valve and the EGR valve gasket and cleaned the EGR, he also cleaned the intake and changed the knock sensor. The SES light finally went away but the car would stutter when i would be stopped with the A/C on and i go to press on the gas. once the RPM hit 1000 it would stutter. It didn't stall until a week and a half later. I was told it could MAYBE be throttle position sensor, computer, thermostat, oil loss from valve cover gasket, and idle speed control.
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My 2000 Volvo S70 just started stalling while driving: it completely dies while in motion. This has happened 4 times in the past week, both times (oddly) in the morning on my way home from the gym. Both times, it's happened we have had very damp weather, and it's the second start-up of the morning. It has happened at slow speeds, and it feels as though it is out of gas, but it is not.
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2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
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have had many problems with my 2003 Accent. I am not a mechanic, but I suspect the problems are related. My engine sometimes stalls when I sit at a red light. I drive about twenty miles to work. On a good day it will just sputter occasionally. On a bad day it will stall as many as three times. It also frequently "skips" a little while driving. It's like a split second hiccup in engine power.
I also used to have a really hard time filling the gas tank. It would take about fifteen minutes when close to empty. I have had it worked on three times over the past three weeks. First they replaced the timing belt (which I already knew needed to be replaced). Then they replaced something called a charcoal canister and blew out all the vapor vents(?) ( Again, I am not a mechanic). After that the car ran ok for about two days, and I can now fill the tank in about two minutes. But, it began stalling again, just as bad as before. So, they replaced something called a MAP sensor (MAFF?).
It has been a couple of days and the car hasn't stalled . . . yet. However, it still skips occasionally while driving, and my engine light has come on again. The mechanic says the code has something to do with a barometric pressure problem. what might be wrong with it?
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My car runs great, no problems at all. I go for a drive then turn the car off, come back, fuel pump DOES prime when i open the door. Go to start it back up and it starts right up for about 2 seconds, chugs, then stalls out. I try turning the car back on and it just turns over not getting any fuel. wait 5 minutes(once i hear the fuel pump prime again), starts right up.
I replaced my crankshaft positioning sensor and the stalling went away completely... for one week. Today I come out of class, start the car, stalls out and wouldn't start for over an hour. drove it around the rest of the day no problem turning it off and on. its completely random. No check engine light..? fuel relay?
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I own a 2000 V6 Passat with 68K miles. For the last 3 months, I have had check engine & emissions workshop lights. During the last month, the car will not start at random times (although never first thing in the morning, only after it has been recently driven); this will happen 1 or 2 times a day. After waiting 1-2 minutes, the car will usually start on the 2nd try; it has always started by the 3rd try. Once started, the car runs fine, although there is initially a strong gas smell. I took the car to a local mechanic, who changed the air mass meter, which had no effect. The mechanic now wants to change the O2 sensors. Unfortunately, I do not know the codes. By the way, the car had an emissions workshop light in 12/04: the light went off when the dealer did work under a "WE recall", which I believe means that it replaced the secondary air vacuum line.
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My daughter's 2008 Elantra starts fine and seems to be idling okay. But recently at seemingly random times the car will stall within a few yards after she starts driving from a cold start. She will start the car, start to drive and then all of the dash lights come on and the engine shuts off. So far she has been able to turn the key and immediately restart the car and then it is fine after that. The problem always seems to occur after she has driven somewhere, let the car sit for a couple hours and then tries to drive again. We took to our mechanic and they said there are no diagnostic codes and the fuel pressure seems good. They did identify some kind of voltage drop/issue with the mass airflow sensor and replaced it. But a day later the problem occurred again. Mechanic seems stumped. I'm very worried about my teenage daughter driving a car that randomly stalls.
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I just got a 2000 passat wagon with a 1.8t and tiptronic transmission. The questions is when it is cold the transmission has a hard time to start driving. But as soon as it is warm it drives great. It is throwing a check engine code havent checked it yet.
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2001 Excursion 7.3 - stalls randomly, sometimes will not start. After the IPR was replaced it was rough for about 4 miles (I thought maybe air in the system), next 40 miles was flawless with 3 stops and restarts. Then it sat for a few hours and I went to leave again and the problem was off and on again for another 5 mile drive. Now it won't start in the driveway. It will start if I disconnect the ICP but the idle is still a little rough.
I replaced the normal culprits after a lot of searching on here:
CPS - replaced with autozone part, thought maybe it was bad new so went to ford and replaced with official part from the dealer
ICP - had oil in the plug and it would idle better removed so I replaced the plug and as much wire as I could - soldered, heat shrunk, good connections - both the pigtail and sensor came from Ford dealer
IPR - replaced with part from the Ford Dealer (FYI - 1 1/8" 1/2" drive craftsman deep socket from sears fit in the ratchet and on the part).
Grounds - found somewhere that the ground on the firewall for the windshield wipers can interfere with the CPS so I pulled it, clean the connections and made sure it was tight and secure.
No check engine light now - I received a few through the process, but did not clear them and there are no codes at this time (self cleared on the 40 mile drive)
I'm thinking it may be some electrical issue/short or a fuel issue at this point, bowl is full and the filter is fairly new (few thousand miles). I haven't done the Hutch mod, but have over 1/2 a tank.
I'm trying to get this going as quick as I can so I don't want to waste too much time, but I also don't want to miss a critical troubleshooting step to take.
Below are my thoughts on the next steps.
Research and test fuel pressure
Tow it somewhere to test each injector - I only have Torque pro to read codes and engine status
If fuel delivery checks out ok, start testing wire by wire on all of the above parts.
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Well this just started a couple of days ago and has gotten worse would start just fine and idle fine put in gear and I have little to no throttle if you give it to much would stall out but would start right up now it s hard as can be to start like 15-20 minutes to start others starting fluid and will idle great but same thing go to drive little to no throttle I can hear fuel pump priming it was changed over summer as filter and have replaced so many parts ...
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Just started doing it last week some time and only happens when I am launching it from stop or grabbing gears hard.
This is a little idea on whats happening.. At stop light next to some random ricer.. maintaining 2500 rpms on tach
drop (stage 4) clutch on green
Car squeaks and dies out like a stall and dash lights flash as well as lights on controll/radio area (around abs light) radio shuts off like a stall.
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Our new '64 Corvair Turbo car had been running pretty smooth, but occasionally stalls and can be hard to start. There has been noticeable flooding out of the carb bowl (single barrel Carter going into turbo). It has an electric choke that seems to be working correctly. The choke butterfly is closed when cold and opens as it gets warm.
Friday we drove to next town and it ran perfectly smooth but stalled when we got there, was very hard to start and ran super rough all the way home. It would not idle, had to hand brake at stops to keep from dying. It was normal temprature (400 degrees). Choke was wide open.
The next morning I started it easy, choke on (closed), but when it got warm it stalled and died. Then flooded fuel out of bowl.
I am only guessing... but seem like carb is tuned to run cold with choke on and is either running terribly lean or rich once it is at temperature.
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T 5spd that today started stalling out. I start it up and it idles fine but when I go to give it gas, it stalls out at around 1600 RPM. My guess is that the Fuel pump may be bad, or i have got bad plugs or coils. It was running fine this morning but it just started doing this around an hour ago.
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I have a 00 Passat GLS.
When i accelerate, whether it's hot/cold/wet/dry outside, the car almost stalls. I have not had it stall yet, usually out of pure fear, i drop the pedal to the floor, and i catches up. I have had this happen at very inopportune times, like joining traffic. The car does a sort of stutter step.
I know little about new cars, but i feel like the fuel or air aren't making it through nicely.
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As a follow up to my problem of intermittent stall and hard start, it is getting more pronounced. Now, every once in a while, it will start. Mostly it will not start.
This morning I connected an OBD2 meter with the key on and engine off. It told me that there are no DTC's. As I was attempting to run enhanced DTC's the code reader lost link with the computer. The connection icon was on but it lost the link. At one point, after several tries, I got the link back but it didn't last too long before it was lost again.
This is the same symptom that I have with running the engine. It will run and then shut off. After a hard start, it will start and run just fine and then shut off again.
My question is this. Can I still have power to the PCM and loose power to the processor? Is there a fuse or relay that could be causing this problem? If not, could the problem be a faulty PCM.
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2001 Ranger Edge 3.0. Like the title says, when I start my ranger it idles really rough. If I give it gas it shudders like it's gonna die. After about 2-3 minutes it smooths out. If I'm on the interstate and down shift to pass someone, while accelerating it feels like I have a misfire (no CEL given) not all the time though. I've changed plugs and wires and it stopped doing it so I thought I had it but, it continued a few days later. Then I changed the fuel filter and it stopped again for a few days. Well it's back again. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump but I wanted to check here before I take my truck bed off. I also checked for vac leaks and I'm all good there.
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2003 passat turn blinker on then off still clicks randomly after ur turn it off already replaces hazard button and still does it what other thing could cause this to happen getting annoying
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I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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Car is a 2000 Passat, 1.8t, APR, Forge Splitter, DV relocated, lowered.
Recently, the interior lights would randomly work and then not work when ANY door would open. Now all interior lights work at all, but the dash lights DO WORK as well as all the lights in the dash. It appears that the issue is isolated to just the map/reading lights. So no map and reading lights whether ANY door is open or if the switch is placed in the on position, this goes for the front, rear upper side lights, and the trunk light. The glove box and under door lights don't work as well. Consequently my drivers side window stopped working as well but I am thinking that may be a separate issue seeing as how the window kind of had a mind of its own before this all happened.
Things that I have checked:
1) I first thought that the microswitch in the drivers door was toast but the door alarm still works when the drivers door is open, the power locks still work, and the headlight alarm works when they are on and drivers door is open.
2) I checked the two main fuses for the 'Comfort Control' Systems. They were both fine.
3) I check for continuity across both of those circuits at the fuse block, the circuit is complete.
4) I checked the continuity of the fuses, they were fine.
The only thing I haven't physically checked is the CCM itself. I want to believe that this isn't the issue since I am religious about cleaning out my drains in the battery tray and door jambs.
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