Passat (B5) :: 2000 VW GLX No Longer Starts
Apr 9, 2012
I have a 2000 VW Passat GLX with the Monsoon system. 3 weeks ago I had a Kenwood x 696 installed by Car Toys and everything is great.
That is until I turn my car off for over 24 hours.. at that point it no longer starts. When I had my stock radio in there were times that I would leave my car off 2 to 4 days at a time and never had any issues.
I had the battery tested and there are no issues. Then I got all of the electronics checked out and it was determined that the Monsoon amp was staying on when the car is turned off.
On Saturday I took the car back to Car Toys and they told me that it was not the stereo. They found something that told them to reset the amp by pulling the fuse and that most likely that would fix the issue. This was Saturday and my car didn't start today.
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I have a 2000 Passat and one day the the alarm remote just stopped working. I bought new batteries for it but it didn't work. Shortly after that my A/C started taking about a 1/2 hour to start working. What is the reason for both of these to start acting up?
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ok i have a 1.8T atw passat 2000. when boost 18 psi my car starts to buck and then my psi goes down to 10 really quickly like something is being cut off. i also have a p0301 misfire in cylinder 1. I switched my ignition coils around and replaced one and i also changed my spark plugs(not the cheap autoparts store kind). i checked my vacuum hoses and no tears. i put fuel injector cleaner in my tank when i filled up ( two bottles). it might be my fuel injectors but that would be too easy to fix. So I am thinking its something mechanical. I want to know what could be wrong mechanically. My friend thinks could it be a blown head gasket. is this true?
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Lately it seems that my 6.0 cranks over longer before it starts. it used to turn over quick and start not it turns over at least 5-8 seconds maybe more. .
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I have a 2004 Dodge Dakota 2WD manual trans with 160K racked up. In the morning it does not like to start right away. I put the clutch down, key in the ignition, turn it to engage the electricity, say a prayer and turn. When it doesn't start nothing happens. No sounds. Nothing. If I hold the key fully turned and wait, sometimes much longer than 60 seconds, it starts and sounds just fine. Once it is running for some time I can turn it off and turn it back on again without hesitation. In colder weather it takes much longer to start.
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Toyota Camry 2000 , 195,000 miles
Last couple of months or so, my vehicle would intermittently stop accelerating, especially when climbing hills. A couple of days ago, the vehicle is completely unresponsive when pressing down on the gas. The vehicle revs, but won't go forward. It will only go in reverse. Everything else is working in the vehicle.
I went ahead and put about a half quart of transmission fluid. Still nothing.
Other information: the vehicle has been leaking engine oil and transmission fluid for the last several months.
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2003 accent. I had an intermittent starting issue, nothing serious. Then one day dead in the water. Had it in my garage so i changed all belts, Crank position sensor, starter and solenoid. It seemed to start different, a little longer than usual to start, but started. Drove it for about a week and dead again. Dont know if it was chance or not but as weather got colder, seemed to take a little longer to start. Cranks but does not fire. I can hear fuel pump priming. I took the spark plug wire and held it next to frame and did not see a spark. To double check i tried ether and still would not turn over. Assuming fuel is not an issue at this point. How ever i did get an evap code p0441 but it went away. I am stumped at this point. I am not very good at electrical on vehicles. I want to check coils, and work my way back but not sure if I am doing it correctly. Most vehicle videos don't have the same parts.
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Accent. The press button inside the car no longer works so the A/C has been stuck ON for some time now. I don't live in a hot area so going without A/C wouldn't bother me too much. Is there an easy (read cheap) way to simply turn off the A/C from under the hood? My brother says he wants to remove the A/C belt but his knowledge of cars is often dicey. Might fix the problem, might blow up the car.
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Shifts slowly or stays in shifting mode longer than necessary. Must stop accelerating and wait a few seconds until the shifting is complete. Does something need adjusting?
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I blew a fuse yesterday replacing wiring on my door, and my car wouldn't start, the alarm light blinked but never sounded, and my trunk no longer latches. i replaced the fuse, and all of my problems were fixed, minus the trunk latch. it's clearly electrical, it's not recognizing that it needs to latch closed when being shut. I'm about to blindly just double check for the possibility of another blown fuse, but after that, I'm stuck.
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02 Ranger 2.3 4cyl 5 spd 115K.... My A/C seems to take longer and longer to start cooling/ When it does start cooling it seems that is is actually colder than it has ever been (original owner) and the control is more sensitive to the touch when moved. Being a 4 cyl it's easy to detect when the compressor kicks in and it seems each time it is taking longer to do so. If I stop the motor, it goes thru the same cycle of time or longer before cooling (compressor kicking in) again. No codes, No unusual noises.
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Recently removed a plow and wiring harness from my 00 F550 and now my headlights no longer work. The headlight plugs have an adapter that the plow harness plugged in to and it now appears I need some type of end plug on each one to complete the circuit. The problem is the dealer doesn't understand what I need and doesn't think there is such a part out there. Perhaps my thinking is all wrong.
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My 2013 Passat SEL TDI has 40,000 miles on the clock and in the past few months I've noticed it's taking longer to start blowing cold air. I've had several summers already so I'm already used to it's performance in the hot summer months but this summer has been different. The A/C will not blow any cold air at all before the car gets going under load (it didn't need engine load before) and sometimes it just won't blow cold at all but just barely "cool" air. I'll sometimes be driving for a half hour and never get the A/C to really blow cold.
Other times, it'll blow just fine. It's the hit and miss performance that has me confused. I then bought one of those refrigerant bottles from an auto parts store that comes with a gauge to see if maybe I have lost refrigerant or it's low but when I checked the gauge the pressure was exactly where it needed to be. I just came off that dreaded 40K service at the dealership and am trying to avoid going back there at all costs...
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Question for the group. I've searched on this and found a few others had the issue but didn't see a definitive cause listed. Both front doors no longer can be unlocked from the outside of the car (interior handles still work). It started with the driver's side and then an hour later "spread" to the passenger side front door. What would seem to be specific cause. I don't know much about the mechanisms that control the electronic locks (or even where they are housed) so need to know the cause and remedy for this.
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Yesterday we had the first hot day this year. Until now, we had up to ~20C, but yesterday it reached 35C (~95F). I have noticed that the car seems.....a bit more lazy. The shifting seems to take longer (higher rpm) and the power seems a bit down compared to a colder day. Is this normal?
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I have an 03 passat and some of the floor mat posts/snaps/fasteners are no longer intact, the thing they snap on to is, but the other ones aren't.
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My hatch no longer holds itself up, it sags then slowly starts to close, I guess I need to replace the arms or shocks, not sure what they are called, what options do I have on these apart from the dealer?
unrelated question, do you ever need to change the Transmission fluid on a 2007 passat 2.0T Auto? Dealer says no, making sure.
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Last night I filled up my gas tank and got back in the car, started it up and the top section of the computer screen on the dash that displays the radio information/volume, etc was off. The steering wheel volume controls no longer work either. However, the cruise control on the other side works as well as the rest of the computer to the left of the speedometer. The radio also works just fine as well. What the problem is? Is it something that I could have somehow turned off and can turn right back on (hopefully)?
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A few weeks back I had problems getting the hatch to close on my wagon w/ the power button, then it started working again. Today, tried to close the hatch w/ the button and nothing happened. It opens fine from the buttons on the key fob, driver's door and hatch, it just won't close. Is it most likely the button that needs to be replaced or something else?
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