I have "new to me" 2000 VW Passat GLX (station wagon). Intermittently at @ 30 mph it will make a thunk and momentarily "brake" as if it just hit a pot hole. I assume its transmission related, but what am I looking at to repair it?
View 3 Replies2000 passat GLX, tip, 2.8L v6... new brake pads and freshly turned rotors, but both the "ABS" light and the "BRAKE" lights come on intermittently whilst driving. It doesn't happen every time it's driven, just maybe 1/3-1/2 of the time, and it is only on for a bit before it turns off, but it will usually turn on again later for a short stint as well.
View 3 RepliesA question for you 3.6 owners. I have a 2006 3.6 Sport that I love, but I have this throttle thunking that drives me nuts. What happens is, when I'm going about 25- 30 miles per hour at around 2000 rpms and let of the gas for a second or two, then just lightly punch the pedal, I get this slappy thunky noise that I hear and feel.
I've had it to two different dealers and both told me they can't find anything wrong and it's normal. They acknowledge that they hear and feel it, but again tell me it's normal.
I've driven a lot of cars and never felt this sensation, so to me, it's abnormal. Since I've never driven another 3.6 I have nothing to compare it to and of course both the dealers didn't have a V6 on the lot for me to drive to verify that it is indeed "normal".
I own a 2005 Hyundai Accent 1.3 SOHC and a while ago the front right wheel started to make a grinding noise, problem was related to the brake system..
So far I've tried replacing the rotor (disc), repaired the caliper (using a rebuild kit), replaced hoses (both), and event the master cylinder.... and the problem persists, it actually came to the point that after driving a while the front wheels will get stuck.
I've followed all the directions from the service manual and it still got the problem...
From the first day i bought this car i had a strange noise coming under the hood. Every time i leave my car for at least 2 hours parked and then started, when i do a few meters i hear a noise like a hydraulic valve comes in place and my brake pedal does a small movement. After that everything is normal.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 with 95K, never had brake pads...at 90K they said it was fine. Lately on wet road when I brake it will momentarily flash the dashboard traction warning. Is this a sign I'm finally needing a brake job or maybe a suspension shock strut/issue. It's usually accompanied by a very brief feel of acceleration, but more like a "slippage" in the engine braking than true tire slippage.
View 7 Replies2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500... When slowing down for stop, when almost stopped, sometimes the brake pedal pushes back momentarily, makes a bit of a (errrr) noise, and for two or three seconds during the push back the brakes do not work. Mechanic has cleaned ABS wheel sensors. All brake pads are good. The truck computer shows all systems okay. All brake lines are new or one year old.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F-150 5.4. The lights will dim very momentarily and brighten right back up when driving under 2000 rpm. It is barely noticeable except on the small back roads at night. It is actual the most noticeable on the dome light. I replaced a failing alternator probably a month or so ago and I don't remember it before I replaced the alternator. What could be involved with the new part to cause the flicker. Could it be bad ground connection or what? I don't have any voltage readouts or anything. I can get those tomorrow.
View 5 RepliesI recently purchased a 2000 1.8T passat that had the engine rebuilt apprx. 16K mi. ago (didn't find out until after I bought the car). After doing an oil change, they day I brought it home, and using a synthetic (Mobil-1 5w-30) the oil light started to come on intermittently. I took it to the shop and had the oil pump replaced, and a couple of day's later it came on again. I took it back to the shop and had the oil pressure sending unit replaced and a day later it came on again. When the light comes on it only stays on for about 5 seconds and goes out. I feel like I'm chasing a ghost. The engine is not making any noise and seems to run o.k.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2003 GLX (V6) atx fwd wagon has almost endless CEL issues. On one occasion it momentarily went into the blinking mode, which did not recur after shutting the car off and restarting. Problems have been all over the map, or so says the dealer (Martens VW in Washington DC), e.g. crankcase ventilation, temp sensor and so on. Car has always run fine but every time we take it into get the CEL fixed, it comes back in about 2 days. BTW, I just bought an extended warranty (before the mfg version expired).
View 5 RepliesQuick background. 1+ years ago I'd sometimes get the "moo" when in reverse. It was intermittent and never enough or a persistent issue to address. Recently, no moo, but I noticed when I'd release the parking brake and move forward there'd be a minor hesitation and an audible thunk, not too pronounced, then it'd roll freely from then forward.
Replaced rear brakes a few weeks ago, noticed the right side parking brake arm doesn't reset as far free as the left. Pushing it 'home' by hand made a little thunk in the cable house up near where it bends towards the vehicle's midline. Brakes installed, and it spun freely by hand with perhaps only a very small amount of 'hiss' but not consistent for a full revolution, only periodically. Lubed both cables from the center console.
Last night installed parking brake return springs, set and released the parking brake a few times to see how it felt. Right side looks like it still does not return home 100% (maybe, 2-3mm away, same as before). Today, made a run to Napa. Got there fine, when leaving, drop the parking brake, and as I'm grabbing reverse I get a yellow dash light and a "check brake pads" warning. I drove about a block, pulled over, shut off engine, got underneath (no parking brake set) and the arm seemed to sit about where it should. I drove a few miles at low speed, pulled over (left engine running, set parking brake), checked temp of all rotors (both sides) with my finger, nothing noticeable. Drove a few more, repeated the above (engine running, brake set) and temps were still cool.
Got home, replaced fans. Started up to test fans, and the error isn't there now.
If it was going to throw an error I'd more likely expect it when leaving home, where I had cycled the parking brake handle multiple times. No error there, or en route to Napa. Leaving Napa, parking brake engaged only once, I got the error. Powering off and restarting, it was still there. Successive stops did not have the engine shut off. Once home, it cleared.
I was stopped, turning my steering wheel to do a hard turn to get out of my parked position, as I turned my wheel I heard a THUNK.Then I reversed, got out of park, then went into drive and proceeded to drive to work. I noticed at every light, when I was stopped with my foot on the break, there was a new RATTLE in the vicinity of the front right tire, where I had heard the thunk. The rattle only occurs when the break is applied.
What could this be? The car is still under warranty, do I need to head straight to the dealership and "not pass Go"?
The Honda Jazz (Fit is the name in the US) is a 2010.
I've recently replaced all my brake pads front and back. After doing so, the Break Fault warning would come on intermittently (This warning would come on prior to replacing the pads on long hard right turns very sporadically). I tried bleeding the front breaks again, but after doing so the brake fault warning stays on continuously.
View 4 RepliesI have a 00 Passat 1.8T and the blower fan for A/C and heat has been intermittently squealing. I can sometimes get it to go away by changing the speed of the fan but I was wondering if there is any way to lubricate it up. Or should I just be looking for a new fan.
View 3 RepliesHad a small brake fluid leak from my right-rear wheel, so I took it into a local place called Wheel Works. They said the right-rear caliper needed to be replaced, so I told them to go ahead.
Two days after I pick up the car, the ABS light and brake warning lights start flashing intermittently. They'd come on at random times, and then turn back off. After about 2 weeks of this, the warning lights are now on all the time.
I've read elsewhere on these forums that the ABS module on our cars can go bad and might need to be rebuilt. But is it possible that the mechanic caused this problem when he was working on the brakes to replace my caliper? Could it be something more minor than the ABS module? I now have reason to believe this mechanic is shady, so I'm hesitant to bring it back there.
I recently bought a 2006 Ranger with supposedly 110000 miles... I don't think I made a good deal... because I found the stabilizer end link in terrible shape which seems suspicious for this mileage in my personal opinion!? But this isn't the reason I am posting today... I have a serious breaking issue and I couldn't find explanation yet.
My ABS Light is on. When I slowly brake at low speed and when the brake is almost completely depressed... I hear a low humming sound, and the brake pedal seems to momentarily drop back just slightly. This also happens when I'm going down hill and breaking. For the most part, the car breaks, and it's only every 8th or 10th time braking that I experience this issue.
My guess is this is linked to the ABS... but I can't afford expensive service and need to resolve this on my own.
After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
So on the 16th I had my Koni FSD kit installed with a set of Driver Gear springs (30mm drop) and used the ECS Tuning install kit for both front and rear.
The issue I'm trying to troubleshoot is a 'thunk' noise coming from the rear but only when going over speed bumps or any other major bumps/dips.
Sometimes it happens at slow speeds too but it's so random that I know it will never do it at the dealer. I can't say "When I take off fast or stop hard it makes a weird sound" it's a lease and they will probably blame me for whatever is wrong. Sometimes the tranny doesn't feel right either. I had a Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD that made a similar sound and it was bushings but this car has only 4,000 miles on it. What should I do?
View 2 RepliesMy 2012 diesel frequently stalls momentarily after I touch the brake. This is very annoying as I drive in heavy traffic and often have to touch the brake then accelerate to merge into freeway traffic. The dealer service department said this was a 'feature' and not a flaw. Is there any way to eliminate this issue?
View 5 RepliesOn a 2000 Passat I have I could not get the brake pad wear icon to go away. I jumpered the wires at the plugs up near the wheel well behind the grommet and that did nothing. I can't imagine that the wires behind the body are broken/frayed as they are not exposed to anything that would cause them to break/fray.
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