Passat (B5) :: 2000 V6 Idles Very Low And Dies - Code P1131
Sep 25, 2012
I've got a 2000 passat v6 and lately it started running pretty poorly. Now it takes a good 15-20 minutes just to get it started and idles very low and dies until after awhile it will run fine. I plugged in an obdII scanner and got the codes p1131, p1423, and p1411. I am pretty sure the last 2 codes are just emissions codes I've had ever since i bought the car. I haven't been able to find a solid answer on what this code is. I imagine it has to be something along the lines of a mass airflow sensor or o2 sensor. I'd rather not go throwing all that money at my car if I don't have to yet.
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I have a 2003 hyundai accent gt 1.6v runs great other than when I get gas. As soon as I fill my tank the car doesn't want to start. It cranks turns over idles very low and then dies. I have to try to start it about 3 times before it will stay running. Starts perfectly fine in hot or cold weather only has problems right after filling gas tank. Started about a week ago. What could be the problem?
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My car has lost power. The engine seems bogged down and it has a significant sputter when accelerating and acts like it wants to die when idle. I am getting error code P1131. AutoZone did not give me any info on the code. I have changed the plugs and wires. I have been told this might be o2 sensors but after reading other stuff here, it looks like maybe a vacuum leak? I am not sure where to start at diagnosing this issue.
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I have a 1999 Ford f150 4.6L automatic. My check engine light had been on for awhile so I dug out my DTC code reader erased it, came back on 10-15 minutes later. I got the code P1131 sensor indicates lean which you would think is the O2 sensor a week later it won't start. Then randomly a couple days later it starts then that night it didn't. Hear is the parts that confused me. I don't believe an oxygen sensor would cause it not to start, it's cranking nice just won't turn over. And when you get the code P1131 I believe it bay 1 where the readings are off Well here's my readings.
Fuel system 1 CL-FaultCalc load 34.1%ECT 201.2 FSTFT B1 -1.6%LTFT B1 0.0 %STFT B2 -1.6%LEFT B2 0.0%ENG RPM 1101VEH SPEED 27 MPH
It looks like to me bay 1 and 2 are off? I'm not mechanically challenged, but not a mechanic either, I do most my own work on my vehicles..
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I'm getting the p1131 error on my 2000 xlt f150 5.4l. I know it's usually a vacuum leak on the pcv hosing, which I did have at the back and replaced as well as other softer joining sections(3 to be exact lol), but I'm still getting this error. Changed out my plugs and cops(as they needed it) and the back two plugs on both bank 1 and 2(plugs 4&8) were both white! Since this is an obvious indication of a lean burning cylinder can I make the assumption my most likely problem is dirty fuel injectors on those cylinders?
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Ok I've been plagued with this very random misfire/power loss/hesitation problem going on a couple of months. You could drive the truck anywhere from 50-300 miles without having an encounter of this problem. It seems to do it now mostly on contiguous long trips over like 30 miles. It one time threw up a P1131 code which quickly went away on it's own. This is a list of stuff that has been recently changed: plugs, wires, coil packs, air filter, pcv valve, fuel injectors, tps, idle air valve, MAF cleaned, fuel filter, and egr valve.
I sprayed with brake cleaner for vacuum leaks around the intake tonight after driving a continuous 50 mile round trip it messed a few times on the way back. When I sprayed the EGR valve mounting area it idled rough when it was hit with brake clean and idled up. So there's a leak there. Or is it stuck? It will be driving normal and usually when you come to a stop the engine will start missing really bad and then when you take off there's no power at all. You keep your foot on the gas and eventually it will feel like all the power is just turned on.
If it does it while you're driving highway speeds it will feel like you've lost a cylinder but it's not as dramatic as when you come to a stop and it starts missing. I can't be 100% but I don't think the EGR wasn't leaking before I replaced it and it was still doing the same thing. I'm wondering why the Check Engine Light won't pick up an obvious misfire when you can you actually feel it. And why if it was the vacuum leak would it only start doing it after many miles of driving?
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I have a 98 ford ranger with a 3.0 v6 it has 228,000miles standard tranny but I keep the truck running great. I did the plugs and wires about two weeks ago and it was running fine, actually great. This morning I got into the truck to start it this morning and it barely started. It fired up but barely stayed idling. I would get into the petal and it wouldn't raise rpms. I had to get to school so I headed out. I couldn't get any speed in gear the truck wouldn't gain speed. It would sputter and pop and then all of a sudden it would go ok but then start popping again. I took it to a buddy shop and his scanner showed p1131 and p1151 both codes. I don't know what to do?
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I have a 2001 Exrursion 5.4L V8. The code P1131 comes up and it says "Lack of upstream heated oxygen sensor switch - sensor indicates lean - bank #1". I hear it could be the sensor that is bad or there is a vacuum leak. It runs like a champ, no spitting, no sputtering, no missing, no ruff idle. What do I need to do to fix it or where do I need to start looking?
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I recently acquired a family car and have been experiencing some strange symptoms while driving. The car starts no matter how cold it was in Chicago this winter BUT after a few miles/10 minutes of driving the issue starts. As I approach or stop it begins to idol/rev up a few times and then die UNLESS I throw it into neutral. When I first start driving this is not an issue but without failure it starts to act up. Parking in the city = guaranteed to die at least twice in the process. This 1994 Topaz did sit unused or started most of the past 5 years.
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I'm new to the passat side of vw vortex. i just bought a passat 1.8t. the car seems to have some kind of sensor problem. When i step on the gas to about 2000 rpm the car reaches the 2000 but dies out?? when they scanned the car on a scanner it said it needed a GPS sensor. the sensor doesn't come separate so I bought the entire throttle body which comes with a new sensor. and yet it still does the same thing. what could be the problem??
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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
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Iv got this escort from my sister, i assume it has been hardly maintained considering the... state. I bought it because she was tired of dealing with the problem... driving, it will turn off. She said it got to the point where she just stopped driving it, although it only happened twice. It began when first time it shuttered then died. Took air filter off and it only ran it like that to get it home. Now it doesn't run but for a few seconds even without air filter, so Its the best choice to leave in.
Anyway, I've replaced:
-PCV Valve
-Fuel Filter
-Some dry-rotted hoses
-I didn't replace it, but i cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor in the intake.
I've tested alternator and batter, both are good. I tried fuel treatment. Being honest this is the extent of my.. automotive understanding. But Im fairly certain it is a fuel system problem.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
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I have an 02 X, and it's been giving us trouble for almost 2 years now. We've babied it along, but it is acting so crazy now. Here's the current weirdness...
Truck idles, ABS light comes on, within 15 seconds engine dies. Battery is DEAD, must have a jump to restart. Otherwise, if we catch the ABS light and Rev the engine to 2500 rpm and hold it for a few seconds until the ABS light goes out, then it is fine and does not die.
We have replaced the alternator with a stock Ford brand (whatever their brand is from the dealer) because we were told the ones from the auto part stores didn't have a strong enough or steady enough current. (This thing had already eaten 3 auto parts store brand alternators in 2 years.)
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A minor but persistent (year-long) rough idle on my 1991 240 has quickly turned into a Cold Start Nightmare over the past month:
SITTING HOURS OVERNIGHT (50 to 60-degree temp. overnight) - When I attempt to start in the morning, the engine idles high for 3-5 seconds and then immediately dies. To successfully start, I must keep pressing the accelerator pedal at least half-way down for 2-3 minutes. The engine sputters, almost backfires, shakes, lopes, almost dies, etc. After 2-3 minutes, everything runs just fine.
WARM ENGINE SITTING - Once the engine is warmed up, it will consistently start without problems. Still a slightly rough idle, but OK. The car does not die.
I have changed the battery, coolant temp. sensor, and spark plug wires.
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I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
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we just picked up a 2000 passat wagon and we were out driving it around and the CEL came on, looked up the codes and it came back with P0421. it still runs great. I am just woundering what the problem is. 2.8 v6 with 159,000 mile's.
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Check engine light is on... Then about 2 mins into driving Emissions Workshop comes across the dash.. i Ran the code it says
P1176 Oxygen sensor correction limit attained (bank 1)
What exactly does that mean in other words. also what is bank 1? im not sure what oxygen sensor it is out of the 4 of them.
i have a 2000 30v 4motion.
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I have a 00 1.8t that won't start...
It gives me P1517 fault code and is the only code I'm getting. Replaced starter. I've looked all over and find very little information about this. Some place I read about said relay 377 is the main electrical relay but I can't find where it is.
Is there a missing relay next to 370?
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I have a 2000 1.8L that's great. I have seen a reference to Vacuum leak diagnosis. I have a check engine light on and it has been for a while. the car still runs well and gets fine gas mileage. Coed is 1136. Is there a specific hose I should check?
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