Passat (B5) :: 2000 V6 - Temp Gauge Sporadically Works
Apr 4, 2008
In my 2000 V6 Passat...I noticed that my temp gauge sporadically works...more often not. Is there a fuse or something that controls it?
View 4 RepliesIn my 2000 V6 Passat...I noticed that my temp gauge sporadically works...more often not. Is there a fuse or something that controls it?
View 4 RepliesMy climatronic has been goofy since I bought my 2000 v6 4mo. In the winter my heat never got really hot and now in the summer my A/C work sporadically. I had the thermostat changed along with the full timing belt service. I'm hoping I'll get full heat come september. My A/C, however works less and less often. The tech who did the timing belt change etc. said that there was a lot of pressure at the condenser, but that he thought a flap may have been stuck. he checked those and they are fine. The last two things he said should be checked are the external temp gauge(which is way off, reads 22'F when its like 85 out) or possibly I need a new climatronic head unit.
My questions are esentially these; Does the climatronic use the outside temp gauge to determine cabin temp? Do head units fail often? Are there temp sensors in the cabin other than those built into the climatronic head unit?
This is my 2000 passat V6. 87k miles. Over all I love the car. It is starting to make a groaning noise in the front suspension when I go over bumps. Seems to only happen when it's about 40 degrees or warmer out side. It's kinda loud. Smooth roads it's nice and quite. But even little bumps make it happen.
2nd. The temp Gauge on the instrument panel only works every once and a while. I like the car. I can pull almost 31 mpg out on the high way. Needs some better suspension. Buts pretty damn solid for 87k miles. My jette around this time frame was crap compared to this.
2006 Passat 2.0t. With the engine cold, the a/c will blow warm until the engine gets up to operating temp and the rad fan kicks on. After that, it will stay on and blow cold all day. I would think the rad fan should kick on as soon as I turn on the a/c to get air flow moving across the condenser as in every other car I have ever owned.
Does rad fan kick on as soon as you turn on the a/c? I'm thinking that i might have a problem with a relay that suppose to kick the rad fan on. I used my VAG.com software and its showing no faults.
I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5x, and I've been struggling with the air conditioner for over a year.
The AC works amazingly when the car has been shaded / in a garage (even if the garage is not air conditioned - so the garage temp is probably still 90 degrees). The problem is when I've parked the car outside in a sunny area. Then, it takes about 25 minutes for the AC to blow cold air consistently. In this case, the fan w blow hot air with tiny spurts of cool-ish air, but nothing that meaningfully cools my car. I live in Texas, so the car is HOT; I'm not expecting instantaneous cooling, but after 3-5 minutes of driving, I would hope it would be getting cooler in the car.
I park in full sun at work, and then drive to pick my kids up from daycare. The car is hot and stays hot until we are home. Of course, I roll down the windows, but I'm always pulling the kids out of the car sweaty and overheated. Lately, it's turned super-warm, so this is getting more miserable and dangerous for the kids.
Coolant was replaced seven months ago with little effect. What could be causing this, although I suspect it's something related to overheating / a sensor or thermostat since it only happens when the car has been parked in the sun. Internet sleuthing reveals everything from o-rings, compressor, compressor clutch, oiling the bearings or clutch plate, cylinder head gasket, etc.
My Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2000 Accent GL with the 1.3
I was driving home with a known overheating problem, when the temp gauge pegged and a heard a distinct rattling. I knew right away what happened. as I pulled over the engine stopped turning. I opened up the hood, and my suspicions were confirmed. I blew a headgasket. I went back into the car to call AAA, and I heard a loud POP!! the radiator blew from the heat and pressure.
after it got home and cooled down I tried cranking it over and it has NO comression. it just spins.
should I take the time and money to replace the headgasket, or should I just get a junkyard motor?
I know I need a new MAF. I had a "multiplicative fuel system running lean" code for a LONG time. I regrettably assume this is what caused the failure in the first place.
2004, 3 door Accent, 150K miles. This has been going on for many summers now (had an idea when driving from work). Well when I got home from work, gauge still read E, turned the car off, then back to ACC, still read E.
Opened the fuel cap, didn't hear any hissing noise or any indication that there was alot of pressure build up, put cap back on, turned to ACC, and gauge read normal.
So after a long story my question is this, is there a pressure regulator that when it over pressures, lets it vent, and what is it called and where is it located? I am thinking that regulator might be stuck closed.
Today was drive my x 2000 v10 limited 4x4 114k miles). It was 90 degrees Out and was driving in light traffic going 40 and noticed my temp gauge almost up to h then dropped fast. So shut the ac off and it continue to rise and drop fast I went few more miles to where I was going checked everything could see no problems it sat for about 30mins then left on my drive back home 36 miles and had ac on and no problems stayed where it normally is. I am thinking of just replacing the belt cause I never have. No weeping from water pump. Or any smell.
View 6 RepliesMy high mount break light works sporadically. When I break, sometimes you can see it as bright as it can be, other times it is dim, and then sometimes no light comes on. The dealership could not even figure out how to get to the led unit.
View 8 RepliesMy outside temp gauge will go down to -33 degrees cutting off the A/C. A little later it will go back to normal and the A/C comes back on. Could this be a sensor etc...
View 1 RepliesMy temperature gauge on my car sometimes ill notice is being a little over the middle and sometimes till be a little under the middle is this normal for it to do that or should it stay in the middle ?
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased an 03 GLX wagon 4 motion from a dealer as is. It had 84,000 on it when I got it and needed a timing belt. The work was performed by a VW dealer and all has been well until today. I was on the highway, had been working the car pretty well for about an hour and i noticed that the temp gauge which is at 190 religiously is now dropped down as low as 120- 130.
I continued to drive, thinking maybe just a bad sensor/gauge considering I had no check engine light yet. I still have good heat but when I got home I noticed that the coolant reservoir was bubbling pretty fierce. Couldn't tell if it was boiling or if it was compression coming back in from perhaps a head gasket failure.
I have a 2000 monte carlo ss. A few months ago the check engine light came on, the temp gauge stopped working, and after shutting the car off you can hear the fan running for about 10-15mins after i shut it off. I assumed it was the thermostat, so that was the first thing i changed. For the first few weeks everything seemed fine. No check engine light, temp gauge worked...then today suddenly it all started happening again. What could be causing it if the thermostat has already been changed? what should i try next?
View 2 RepliesHave a 2000 subaru outback 2.5l, automatic, with about 245k, I replaced the thermostat,water pump, the radiator and the car is still overheating. both fans are working. no leaking coolant. Maybe this is related- over heats mostly when driving on the highway. But if a shift the gear to neutral and coast for a minute the shift back to drive the temperature gauge goes down. Whats wrong, running out money fixing the car, but love it driving it in the snow.
View 2 RepliesDoes the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
View 11 RepliesI've notice sometimes when i first start the car the outside temp gauge blinks. What does that mean?
View 6 RepliesAlright so noticed the other day that my temp gauge was staying pinned at cold. every once in a while it will jump up to the normal range but not for more than a few seconds to a minute before it drops back to cold. I just bought the car so I've still got a warranty from the dealer and im fairly convinced that I don't have to bee too concerned with it over heating because when the gauge DOES register its saying normal. just thought id ask here before i drive the 2 hours back to where i bought the car.
View 11 RepliesMy 01 passat is telling me to check my coolant when it's working fine and its not overheating I think it might just be a sensor because my check engine light is on and it's reading thermostat.
View 6 RepliesThis past Saturday afternoon I'm out driving on the highway when the temperature gauge on dash maxes-out and the overheat warning light comes on. I get off at the next exit and stop at the nearest repair shop. (Which happened to be not too far from the exit.) During these moments of driving the car is not behaving as if it were overheating. No steam/vapor coming from the engine, it's performing okay, A/C runs cold, running heater on full-blast seems to do nothing to ease the gauge and the temperature in the engine bay feels about "normal."
So, since this is a Saturday at almost 5PM most of the repair shops are closing (it's a known fact cars don't break down past 5 o'clock on Saturdays.) So they say the'll look at it on Sunday.
I get a call on Sunday and I'm told that as near as they can tell the car is not overheating, the overheat light or check-engine lights weren't coming on and the car is behaving normally. The thermostat is "gunked up" and they recommend new coolant or a coolant flush." I just opt for new coolant, forgoing the flush, as I didn't really have the funds for it, an additional $100 or so. They say there are no codes in the system.
They do it and end up having to keep the car overnight so that the... air bubbles will work out of it? (?!)
I pick it up this past Monday evening and on the drive home the temp-gauge does as it was doing when this process began. It started creeping "hotter and hotter" meanwhile the car is behaving otherwise fine. (No overheat light this time.) Get home, open the hood, no vapor, no excess heat. Nothing.
They spend quite a bit of time running it, hooking it up to a diagnostic machine, etc. While the temp-gauge is sort of "floating around" between normal and "hot" it doesn't reach an "overheat" and the diagnostic machine registers normal temperatures. This time they find a code in the system, though the check-engine light has never come on. They recommend, again, the coolant flush so I go ahead and do it (they give me a discount), and drive the car home, again the temp-gauge "floats" around the dial, never quite getting to "overheating."
I drive to work just fine Thursday (today) morning with no real trouble with the gauge. (Though, FWIW, I had to tap on the dash to get the dash-light on that side of the console to come on.) This brings us to Thursday afternoon.
I make a couple of errands and as I'm stopped at a pharmacy drive-thru the temp-gauge is "floating." Driving home on the highway it reaches "overheating", turning the light on (again, car is not behaving in an overheating manner. A/C still cold, running heat doesn't ease gauge, no vapor from engine compartment.) When I pull in my parking spot the A/C and the car starts to "stall" some and NOW the check-engine light comes on. I shut the car off and I see vapors coming from under the hood.
I open the hood and the engine is covered in the anti-freeze/coolant and the coolant reservoir is empty. The various hoses and such that are clipped on to parts of the front engine cowling are loose (the plastic screw/"snaps" came out of their holes) and pushing on the upper-radiator some and it seems awfully loose. (Like the upper mounts aren't properly seated or something.)
Call the shop ask them what they are doing to me, they say they'll have another look at it and pay for the tow to get the car back to their shop. Awaiting word on what is going on, likely sometime tomorrow.
All of this strikes me as very, very odd and all seems to pile up quickly from taking it to this shop. With a replaced thermostat and flushed coolant I have a hard time understanding how the engine could genuinely overheat. All of the hoses and such seemed fine, and running the engine for a while at the shop the other day generated no problems to the techs working on the car. Yet, they're the only ones who have messed with it. Assumptions on their part Tuesday afternoon were something to do with the water pump (replaced at 100,000 miles with timing belt. Car is now at 145,000 miles.) Or a faulty temperature sensor (or what passes for it on the car) sending false readings to the gauge.
Car is a 2000 Ford Focus ZTS with a 4-Cyl, 16V, 2.0 Liter engine. It has 145,000 miles on it, timing belt and water-pump were replaced at 100,000 miles have had regular oil-changes on (more or less) every 5,000 miles or so. I will admit to not getting coolant changes/flushes as often as one should but the car never really had an overheating issues or problems starting in the winter.
I am at work and dont have access to my manual. I was driving into work today and the outside temp gauge dropped from 40 to 39 then chimed and flashed as if to say "he it dropped below 40 outside" then it showed a little snowflake picture next to the temp. I have only had the car since summer-so why was it telling me it dropped to 39?
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