Passat (B5) :: 2000 V6 - Rough Starting And Sputter
Oct 1, 2006
Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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I have a Hyundai-Accent 1.5 GL, Auto, year 2000 car. I bought this 4 months ago and ever since it has been giving the check engine signal. However, running conditions of the car has been normal and therefore, I didn't worry about the check engine signal. Now, the engine is rough idling for few seconds when I start the car in the morning, and then it comes back to normal.
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I don't know what is wrong with this car, I have put in new titanium plugs, new plug wires, new fuel filter, new air filter, changed the oil, I burn mid-grade gas. The car starts right up when cold, however once it warms up it idles on a non regular number, dies when driving and is very hard to start. I get lousy mileage and it smells like it is either not getting enough gas or not getting enough air. I don't know what else to do. I had it analyzed with an electric analyzer, no codes were found. When the plugs were put in the air flow sensor had either gas or oil on it. It does not use any oil.
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So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
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Anything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
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I own a 2000 f-150 7700 series with a 4in body lift. recently Ive had a problem starting (I believe it is from the shifter not recognizing im in park) but now my theft light flashes at me and there is a weird sound that sounds like a relay from under my steering column when i roll my windows down, move shifter around or turn on 4x4. also my radio stays one every once in a while after the key is turned all the way back to off, and windows wont roll down after i hear the relay sound. Ive read to tighten shifter linkage and will do that tomorrow to see if that fixes it.
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My car has three codes P0102 - MAF or VAF Low Circuit Input, P0030 & P0050 which are signaling O2 sensor issues.
Car symptoms are a hiccup type sputter when accelerating for the first few times after starting the vehicle. The RPMs will drop down under 1000rpm and it will come back without taking my foot off the gas. The power comes back faster if I flutter the pedal. The last few times it stalled while taking off.
After the car is warm, it runs better smoother. I'm also noticing slightly poor fuel economy. The exhaust smells rich to me.
I'm wondering if there is a fuse that could cause all three codes? Seems like a power problem? Where is the fuse for these sensors?
Should I replace MAF? Can I use the MAF from a 2004 2.4L engine that's at the junk yard? How to proceed.
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So the Ex is starting to behave badly again in the morning! From time to time, when starting first thing in the AM cold the Ex will spit sputter and die all while puffing black smoke. Total time is under 3 seconds.
Start it again and it is fine. I have not had this issue before. There are absolutely no codes what so ever! And since it is such a short time sputtering nothing really shows up on the ScanGauge 2.....
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2006 Sonata V6 with 98K miles. The car has developed a rough idle, sputter/lurch while in gear, but not park or neutral. No CEL/codes. Have already replaced the spark plugs (OE), throttle body/FI cleaned, MAF cleaned, new air filter, coil packs OK... Mechanic said no vac leaks, FI spray pattern good, good fuel pressure, etc. Vibration dampener looks ok, no separation or wobble. Another post mentioned a power steering pressure sensor, which I will have checked, but the mechanic is at a loss.
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Was having some issues with my 2000 Passat not starting after only being turned off for a short period of time (long periods of time no problem). My check engine light came was on along with the Emissions Workshop message in the display. I took it in and had it serviced at my local repair shop. They said it was something with a temperature gauge or something to that effect that was causing it to lose a temp reading. Anyways, after the repair the car starts fine, runs great, the check engine light went off and so did the Emissions Workshop display. Then a few days later it came back on...still not having any issues with it starting but what's going on??
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I drive a 1992 Mazda Protege. Recently had an oil change and put in new air filter. Recently the check engine light has been coming on. Sometimes it will run rough and sputter a bit when the light flips on and then runs normal after the light flips off, sometimes it seems to run fine when the light comes on, but the light does go off and the car runs fine after it has been running for a few minutes. Shortly before I had my air filter and oil changed I did have an incident at a stop light where the car died and did not restart for a full five minutes, at which point it sputtered for a bit and then got me home.
I took into the local mazda service center and dealer (they were the only ones who had the right kind of connector to pull the error of a car this old), and they said the only code coming up was a p69 which indicated a bad thermoswitch. I have already paid for it but the parts won't be in until Saturday. I have until then to cancel the repair and just pay restock and the original diagnostic fees. Should I go through with this repair, or do the symptoms described indicate something else?
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I have a 2002 4.6L FX4. When I run the A/C for an extended period (say 15-20+ minutes), it will start to cough and sputter and eventually just die. It will restart but run rough and cough, sputter, die.
If I turn off A/C and let it set a while, it runs fine. No check engine light. Possible EGR problem????
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The car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
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I have a 2005 Accent Manual, and my check engine light came on a little while ago. So far since then, my car has started to hesitate, and sputter at times. It just doesn't run like it used to. I have owned this car for four years, and it now has 117000 miles on it. I went in to one of the automotive stores in my area, and after telling the gentleman that works there about my car, he sold me some spark plugs, and spark plug wires, because I have never replaced them for as long as I have owned the vehicle. I did and it still sputters and what not. So I went back in and they hooked up their machine to my car and printed off these codes:
P2401
P2419
P2405
P0036
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My accent 2000 is having problems. It will turn over and run for about ten seconds then will sputter out and die. I replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pump, all that is working well. (by the way, crazy you have to rip out the back seat to get to both the filter and pump) The battery is brand new, the alternator has been tested, i also just took the plugs out and cleaned them and re-gapped them. checked the wires to make sure they are sparking (plugs and wires are less then a yr old) I am not sure where to go from there.......
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I have a 2000 acura tl with almost 200,000 miles on it. When I drive it for more than an hour, park to run errands then get back in after say 15 minutes the car will spit and sputter and die. In order to leave I have to hold my foot on the gas and break to force it to stay running. I run premium gas and in the winter I use seafoam additive with every fill up but it doesn't seem to work. This problem is more prevalent during the winter months; my mechanic is telling me the fix will cost 1200 for a full ecu reflash to fix it.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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2000 GTI GLS 2.0L ... I understand I need to replace the Ignition Coil Pack on my car. I have looked on ECS Tuning to find the coil pack, but from all the pictures I see of other people coil packs they look nothing like what mine do. So I'm wondering if they are different for my specific car? So the issue that I have is my engine sputters sometimes, but more so when is wet outside. Its only cylinder 2 misfiring currently, and I replaced my Fuel Filter and Fuel Pump already in the past 4 or 5 months. Also a local shop had done some work recently and I know they had replaced the spark plugs. So I'm just wondering what coil packs I need for my car, and how I would go about replacing them. From what I saw online with other 2.0L (They weren't GTIs tho) was that the coild pack was behind the SIA pump or something like that, and they are a small black box. It looks to me that my coil packs are inline above the spark plugs and cylinders?
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I have a 2000 VW Passat with the 1.8L turbo. When I bought it, the timing belt was off 1 notch. After I fixed the timing issue the car still didn't idle well. I was told that the throttle body was causing the problem so I replaced it. The car ran good for about 5 minutes after I replaced the throttle body. After I hooked up a OBD-II scan tool up to it instantly started running rough. The car runs at 1100 rpm at a cold start-up but when the car warms up it idles down to 850 +-75 rpms. I cleaned the MAF sensor, and it still runs rough. Car has 180,000 miles and MPGs are also down.
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i have a 1998 passat 1.8t and in the past week my car started a slight sputter when i get on the gas and it gradually got worse the car starts up fine and idles perfect i did a compression check all 4 cylinders are exactly 150 psi now the problem just got worse when i go to leave a light or when im cruising down the highway and grt on it it sputters or and like pops or backfires outta the exhaust i just replaced the fuel filter and i still have the problem im stumped
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
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