Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Transmission Jump / Harsh Shifting
Jan 5, 2010
I have the 2000 passat 1.8L 4 cylinder with the tiptronic shifting. The car has been shifting less smoothly both upshifting and down. I have noticed that if you are going fast and slow suddenly, say for a light and the downshifting does not go smoothly the vehicle can lurch/jump even if the brakes are firmly applied.
What may be causing this issue. I recently sold my MKIV which was a great car and we are now starting to have small problems with this passat with 104,000 miles on it. It does not intuitively feel that the tranny is worked over yet, but I would like to avoid any expensive repairs/replacement. I have done everything from suspension, door replacement, clutches and timing belts on other vw's. So I am hoping to tackle this myself.
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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I have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
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Vehicle: '99 E350, V10
Symptoms: speedometer bouncing, O/D flashing, harsh shifts. Symptoms do not present until the van has been driven at highway speeds for about 20 miles. Then, the speedometer starts to bounce a little. Then, after another 5 - 10 miles, the O/D light starts to flash. Then, with a few more miles, the harsh shifting begins.
Parts replaced: neutral safety switch, rear ABS/speed sensor (twice), instrument cluster.
Each time after I replaced a part, when I drove the van, all was fine until it had been driven at highway speeds for about 20 - 25 miles, regardless of whether the engine was warm or cold. Where to go next with it?
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16 se. When driving slowly, I feel my car shift into second gear, not very smooth, to other gears, it's butter smooth. I mean it's not bad at all but little harsh for a new car. I only have 700 miles on it. Is this kinda normal !?
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I have a 2000 F150 with the 4.6L engine and I have a question about the transmission. When shifting from 1st to 2nd gear there is sometimes a little hard jump when shifting. All the other shifting through out the range is buttery smooth. The issue has been around for a long time and has never gotten worse. Is there anything simple I can do to fix this. Do those tranny additives work at all? Otherwise, I will just continue to live with it.
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I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
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What may be causing my car to harshly shift fron 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd the 3rd. One solution some one had was to replace the:
"TPS (throttle position sensor). The other reason for hard shift is a worn Boost valve and will need to be replaced, or a faulty transmission fluid EPC (electronic pressures control valve). Both Boost valve and EPC are located in the Valve Body and can be replaced with out dropping the valve body, but have to drop the transmission pan".
I did just recently top off the tranny fluid because it was running a bit low but there is no leak....
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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I am having a few issues with my 2001 accent. I bought this car for around 500 bucks after my friend hit 3 deer with it. At 101,000 miles the transmission went on it and he had it replace with a new one. At about 113k he hit his third deer and parked it. I bought it off him a few years later and its been running great. It died on me one time and it was the crank position sensor. Now I have about a 156k mile on it and it will not go into overdrive.
I have gotten mis fire codes, I know it needs new O2 sensors, and also P0733 Gear 3 Incorrect ratio. The button on the shifter does nothing, If i press it on or off the light does not come on on my dash. I noticed it was not going into OD this last winter if i dropped it into low and shifted to drive it would no longer go into overdrive until i placed it in park and then drive again. Ive been searching everywhere for an answer I was reading one post that it could be the TPS sensor causing issues but i haven't had time to check the voltage.
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I come today for a apparently transmission problem. I have an automatic VW Jetta 2000 2.0 that i bought a few months ago, the car is great, has 250K miles.
The problem is in the morning when car is still cold, the transmission isn't shifting gear until 3K RPM (For 1-2 is about 2.5K RPM, and 2-3 is about 3K RPM). After 5 minutes of driving all back to normality and transmission shift gear about 2.2K to 2.3K RPM.
The question is: this is normal?, what could be wrong?.
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My 2000 Hyundai Accent, and it has started shifting gears when not traveling at the right speeds to do so.
I'll try to describe it the best I can, When driving I will be going whatever speed limit and all of the sudden it will make a winding noise (like when jumping on highway and pressing hard on gas peddle) and the RPMs will stall. It is like when shifting up, the car drives as normal but then it will shift down and pulls back (making a winding sound)
I am not sure what to do, I was told it seems like it may be the transmission is shot(I had the fluid flushed previously) and that it could cost over $1000 to get it replaced.
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I have a 2001 hyundai accent GL the transmission has started shifting hard when it shifts into drive. It shifts fine and smooth from first to second but when it shifts into drive it hits drive hard and sometimes it acts like it doesn't want to shift and if you let up on the gas it will go ahead and shift, but when it shifts to overdrive it seems fine but hits hard when it down shifts back to drive. Also I have noticed a couple times when it goes to shift into drive the engine seems like it revs up some but when you let off the gas it goes ahead and shifts.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 XLT with a 5R55E automatic transmission.
Coming out of a stop the truck jolts at about 20 mph as it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. It feels like it revs too high in 2nd gear, up to about 2400 rpm, and then shifts hard into third. It feels like the truck gets a gentle hit from behind.
Earlier in the week, the O/D light flashed. I took it immediately to an independent tranny shop who pulled the code for me: P7033, incorrect ratio in 3rd gear.
They cleared the code for me. In limited city and highway driving (less than 15 miles each trip) the O/D light has not flashed again. But the problem remains. I plan to take it back to the shop later next week.
What might cause this so that I might have a more informed conversation with the tranny mechanic?
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I have a 2000 V10 2WD Excursion with 104,000 miles. Last week it started shifting hard between first and second, but only when I am between 1500-2k RPMs. If I rev the engine higher, it shifts smooth. I checked the fluid and it is fine. I rarely tow anything except my little trailer to the dump every few months. I have a few questions:
1. Should I drop the pan and change the tranny filter?
2. Should/Can I check the rear diff fluid? (haven't noticed any leaks)
3. Could an inline flush and fill work?
4. I saw a post about a speed sensor in the rear diff. Could this be the issue?
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I have a question for everyone out there with any insight of the harsh shifting with these trucks. I have a 2003 f250 super duty with the 5.4l and 126,000 miles on it. The problem I'm having is some weird shifting that has been going on over the last six months and I feel like I am just throwing money at this problem. My truck shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and from 3rd to 4th with the most violent shifts being from 3rd to 4th! Between shifts is where it Is sluggish I mean if I am not on the throttle from those shift points I switch from driving a truck to a geo metro it is night and day with the felling of loss of power!
I have had it scanned at my local ford dealership and had a full diagnostics done and all I got was "it's since truck and a nice bill to come with it" they couldn't find a thing. So far I have all new motorcraft plugs, cops, changed fuel filter, had my catalytic converter checked if it was clogged,run on two different power balance tests! Still nothing! So now I'm lost I have heard things about these trannys and the lock up but I was told this only had to do with overdrive and it wouldn't happen at other gear changes. I still drive it everyday I have just figured out ways to calm it down if I stay off the gas when it's about to shift for a couple seconds then get back on the gas it is like it never happened.
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I bought the car about a week ago, whenever the auto tranny shifts gears there is a slight jerk that old honda autos are known for, my wife's car is a 01 celica gt which I bought 2 months ago and went through castrol import ATF 3x drain n refill method suggested by honda for their auto trany, I attempted the same thing in the gts and the shift jerk went down a little but not by much, the gt auto tranny is so smooth I can't even tell whenever it shifts up or down other then high rpm engine noise when it gets there. Is it the engine being much more powerful then the gt to cause that jerk? Should I try a different fluid? Need to know if theirs is smooth across all gears in any rpm range.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent with 120,000 miles on it. Up until a few months ago, its been a great little car. The transmission started acting funny by shifting irregularly and then getting stuck in 3rd gear occasionally. I took it to the dealer and they told me that the tranny is shot. The estimate for the repair is $2000.00.
I just can't see putting that much money into this car. It needs Struts, Shocks and a timing belt. Basically what it needs is what its worth if it were running well.
How hard it is to replace the transmission in this car? I have the 1.6L DOHC with the Automatic transmission.
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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New truck 11000kms ago thats done medium amount of work but nothing heavy or sustained for long periods of time. I get the feeling of clutches slipping especially when truck is cold but also when normal temps. Doesnt make any weird noises or anything. I can really notice the difference in torque if in manual mode being much better, but still not perfect if i stomp on the gas pedal and go through the gears in manual mode will still slip. Also is really harsh shift if i come to a halt in 3rd manual mode with the brake pedal depressed push minus button the truck makes very loud clunk noise into gear 2 then 1. Took it to ford they couldnt find anything ? Thinking of trying another dealer.
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I've been getting a spinning/whirring noise from the transmission when shifting from 1st to 2nd. It only lasts a few seconds, and seems to occur between 1st and 2nd. Since the transmission is still covered under warranty, I went to a dealer. I knew I needed a new clutch, so I had to let the dealer do the clutch replacement in order to get to the transmission. Once inside, they found my release bearing in several pieces, as well as "damaged gears." VW agreed to replace the transmission, but I still have the spinning noise. The car has 96K miles.
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