Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Runs Rough With A/C On?
Jul 26, 2009
The car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
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2000 Toyota Camry le v6 .... When I first start my car it runs rough after about 5 to 10 minutes it runs fine. I have no check engine light on. I used sea foam and the problem went away for a couple weeks then it came back. I have about 30k on my spark plugs.
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Reconditioned engine 5,000 miles ago. Last maintenance check at dealer found nothing wrong. 2000 Honda CRV.
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I'm working on a 06' Passat 2.0t and it runs rough only at idle like its misfiring only vag-com says no misfires and no engine codes. MAF looks like it may be a little low on performance but should be ok. I tried swapping out coil packs but no change. I changed the pcv breather and hose, cleaned the carbon off the valves, swapped the throttle body with a known good one, and changed the piston on the fuel pump and still no change. It smooths out when I turn the a/c on but that's the only thing that changes the idle.
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I have recently purchased a 2001 Accent GS which has the 1.6L DOHC engine and have done a big road trip in it which has created a problem. When I fill the fuel tank up it runs really rough, has no power, and stalls at idle unless I keep the revs up. I can also smell petrol very strongly in the car all the time, plus it's running really rich as I can smell fuel on the exhaust and the last symptom is the loss of power down low(due to running rich).
I was on my road trip so had no tools on me and got the local mechanic of a small town to do a few basic things (change spark plugs, leads, and fuel filter) but to no avail. It runs smoothly when it gets below the full line on the fuel level gauge so I just didn't fill it up completely to get the car home but it still runs really rich and doesn't have quite as much power.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
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My V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
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I got 2000 tdi with 270000km on it and have a few issues with it and am looking for some information before i start doing some work to it.
First problem excessive blue smoke on start up also runs ruff tell it warms up.
Second the is a screeching noise on start up some times. happens most of the time when the car is cold.
Third sounds like something is dragging or rattling but i have checked and there is i can see.
Fourth when the clutch is in and the brake is on the car runs ruff at idle. i think it has something to do with vacuum used for the brake booster but not sure.
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I have a 2000 E350 boxtruck with a 5.4 auto. The motor is a new rebuilt with about 4000 mile, coils were replaced with motor, injectors were rebuilt with motor.Today (500 miles from home) the truck died. I was going up a slight hill on an interstate. It will still start, but runs very rough and when I put it in gear and step on the gas it dies.
So I had it towed to a garage. While pushing it into the garage I noticed my gas cap was missing. I know it was on 45 min earlier because I got gas. Did I forget to put in back on? probably.. But I wondering if the missing gas cap could cause the truck to run bad,vary bad?
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2000 F350. Starts great. Idles fine. After it warms up a little, it will run rough and lose power like it is only hitting on a few cylinders. It will eventually stall unless I push the clutch in and bring it back to idle and then it smooths back out. I figured it was starving for fuel but I can rev it with the clutch in with no issue. I ran it up to 2500 rpm and held it there with the clutch in and ran perfect.
I let the clutch out and start rolling....missing again. The check engine light does come on but my scanner says that there are no codes stored. If I idle it, it will smooth out, and the light goes off. All I have done so far was change the fuel filter which was almost plugged shut and the housing was full of rust looking debris which I cleaned out. BINGO! Nope. Same issue.
I am really at a loss as to where to start. I bought this with 120k on it and it now has 170k and I have not had to do anything other than routine maintenance.
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My F150 with 175,000 miles on gave me a the ol' P0305 code indicating misfiring in cylinder #5. I changed the plugs and wires using Motorcraft wires and Motorcraft AGS34FM plugs.
Now the truck idles fine, does not give a OBD code but runs rough at 2,000-2,500 rpm. Tried it out on the highway and it started "bucking" a bit. Not sure what to try next.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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So, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
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This problem has been getting worse over the last 2 years. When the car starts it idles fine at about 1000 RPM. As soon as it warms up, it starts to idle rough, between 500 and 750 RPM. It almost quits running. As soon as you give the car some gas it runs just fine. About 3 weeks ago I got a "Engine Lean" check engine light error. I reset the system and have not gotten the error again. Since then I have: changed the MAF cleaned the EGR (made sure it closes completely and ohm out the coils in the actuator) changed the O2 meter on the exhaust manifold cleaned out the throttle body Ohmed out the air idle controller. What I should check next. I was planning to check the fuel pressure in case it is a fuel system problem. It is a 1999 ....
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Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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I have a 2000 VW Passat with the 1.8L turbo. When I bought it, the timing belt was off 1 notch. After I fixed the timing issue the car still didn't idle well. I was told that the throttle body was causing the problem so I replaced it. The car ran good for about 5 minutes after I replaced the throttle body. After I hooked up a OBD-II scan tool up to it instantly started running rough. The car runs at 1100 rpm at a cold start-up but when the car warms up it idles down to 850 +-75 rpms. I cleaned the MAF sensor, and it still runs rough. Car has 180,000 miles and MPGs are also down.
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I just got a 2000 Passat 1.8T with a bad motor.
Symptoms include: rough idle, oil leakage, coolant light comes on after running for about 2-3 min., I checked the coolant res. and it has what I suspect is oil in it. I know that the PO ran cheep oil and oil filters the last 2 oil changes and this has caused the famous cannibalization of the engine but what I need to know is would this feed oil into the the coolant over flow tank? There also seems to be some oil/coolant seeping from the upper left.
The car only has about 90k on it and most of those are highway miles, other than cheep oil, the car has been very well taken care of.
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basically it runs rough and makes noise when AC is on. While it may not be perfect when off, it certainly is quieter. Check engine light just came on.
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1996 s-10 runs very rough at start-up .. smooths out after it warms up and runs really great. Is it just the plugs and wires or something else??
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I have a 2005 Town Car with 40 K Miles.
Engine runs rough at most slow rpm's .
No codes and I change : new sparks plugs / new Fuel Filter / new air filter /
New oil / new ATF / good MPG , everything good but runs to rough.
Have an 94 LTC and this car runs better.
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I have a 1995 GMC that I have owned since new. It has 212,000 miles on it, a 305 TBI, and a manual five speed. It started running bad all at once. It idles rough, at different speeds and never settles down, (between 900 and 1300 rpm. It smells like raw gas, smokes, and has no power to get started from a stop. I checked the vacuum, it is at 19" at all rpms. The MAP sensor reads 0.3VDC when off, 4.12VDC when idling, and 1.5VDC at WOT. It appears to have 12PSI fuel pressure (after a messy test set up!) on the fuel pump side of the fuel filter (filter replaced 10,000 miles ago). The EGR valve appears to cycle OK when I suck on the vacuum line so I assume it works OK. I found a bad TBI flange gasket and replaced it. It runs slightly better but still smells like raw gas and has no power. When I try to accelerate, it immediately has no power, like a big vacuum leak. The idle is close to normal (900rpm = normal). Do I just start replacing parts?
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