Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Pedal Is Buzzing At Feet When Braking From Slow Speeds
Feb 12, 2007
I'm experiencing a weird problem with my Passat (2000 TDi 110), where the brake pedal is buzzing at my feet when braking from slow speeds. If I am doing around 5-10mph and lightly apply the brakes, it sometimes buzzes in the peddle and I can't apply full pressure (this can be tricky when behind another car!), but if I take my foot off the pedal or wait around 3 seconds, the buzz and pressure restriction goes and then I end up braking quite sharp as the pressure releases. The buzz is quite audiable and can be heard by others in the car and sounds quite electronic. Pads and Discs are fine, they will need replacing soon, but this issue has been going on for a while, so I don't think it's related to them.
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When braking at very slow speeds(less than 5 mph), my ABS system engages. It can be startling and the truck keeps rolling forward unless I pump the brakes to get it to stop. The truck is drivable, I just have to be careful when pulling into our garage or slowing behind someone at a traffic stop. What could be causing this?
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My passat is making a strange noise every time I accelerate and it seems to stop when i brake or let go of the gas.. It sounds likes it buzzing and its coming from the engine/dash??
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2011 infiniti. new rear rotors/pads 6k miles ago. now there is a rhythmic sound with very slow speed braking. like a bad spot on 1 rotor. you hear a grind, stop, grind, stop. its not a constant grind sound. i looked at both rear rotors thru rim slots. rotors look perfect. very smooth. i have not pulled wheels to check. i am thinking rotors making sound vs pads making sound. but why would a rotor have an odd spot or rough patch? there is no ridge at all on rotors. cant see the pads rubbing on some rust ridge? there is none....
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Your breaks yet? Mine are starting to get really annoying, that high pitch noise at slow speeds with just a slight touch on the break peddle. To give an idea of loud, I have hearing loss from my job in the military and they are starting to bother me.
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I have a 99 VW Passat, it is making a loud buzzing noise as I accelerate to speeds above 20-25mph. The noise sounds like a baseball card in your bike spokes (or a room fan) does. The noise disappears when I push the clutch in. Here's the really weird part: when revving the engine as it's parked in neutral, there's no sound. What the heck is going on?
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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I drive a 2002 4-dr 1.6 L Accent and there is a strange, high-pitched squeaking that comes about from somewhere under the car at very slow speeds (30 mph or below). If I hit the brakes, the noise continues sometimes as the car slows. (The noise isn't the brakes, though, I know that), but if I hit the gas pedal slowly, the noise stops. Whatever is vibrating underneath doesn't seem to be causing a problem at high speeds. Or I just can't hear it.
Secondly, I am going to try to do some tune-ups for the summer for lack of better things to do, mostly, I can pretty much do anything (intake/exhaust, engine, electrical) as long as I can find detailed instructions.
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I have a 00 expedition 4wheel drive eddie bauer. 100k miles. New tires, recent alignment, new upper ball joints and tie rod ends, recent suspension change over to passive system with new shocks. Also must note I have "newer" front wheel bearings but they were from advance auto and not the suggested Moog ones.
I have a loud clicking noise at slow speeds. def sounds like its coming from the front area. Speeds up and slows down with acceleration. brakes do not change noise other than slow it down with tires. The truck also vibrates on the highway. I notice the tires are wearing (cupping)
Is it the cheap wheel bearings? what is the best way to test for bad wheel bearings? i think they are under warranty if I can find the receipt. Anything else i should test? can it be c/v joints or something?
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I drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
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I have a 2000 Suburban with about 170,000 miles on it. I'm getting an audible clicking sound at slow speeds which increases as the vehicle speeds up and also a fairly severe vibration which becomes noticeable at about 20 mph and becomes worse as the speed increases. I thought maybe driveshaft but things seem fairly tight. Also, this has gotten gradually worse over time.
Ok I figured out where the vibration was coming from...U joints in the front driveshaft are shot. Now I have another problem...I've removed the fwd u joint straps and according to the book, the driveshaft should simply slide to the rear into the transfer case so I can lower the fwd u joint but the problem is that the part of the shaft (which slides into and out of the transfer case) seems to be frozen/stuck. Do I simply beat on it with a hammer to break it loose or am I doing something wrong?
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I have started to hear a slight (but getting louder) squeal from my brakes when I am braking from moderate speeds (20 mph and under). I know that the car had new stock brakes put on it less than a year ago. What I should do about it?
Stock 1.8T 5spd 2001 discs all around.
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My 2006 3.6 awd has developed a propensity to roughly downshift when braking at higher speeds particularly on inclines. The VW shop cannot replicate the problem, but a tech is driving the car for a few days. What might be the cause of this?
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When driving at slow speeds and when I go over a bump in the road, I'll hear something like the metal part of the wheel scraping something as its turning. Only comes from the front drivers side wheel. It's audible enough that people usually turn to look when I'm in a parking lot.
Took it to the dealer, they 'test drove' it. Said they couldn't hear anything. Then said that whatever I'm hearing is 'normal suspension noise'. So after leaving it a full day at the dealer, nothing has changed. Since when is ANY suspension noise normal? But I don't think its the suspension. What to do? Take it back? Take it to another dealer?
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Ever since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
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Brake pedal being very sensitive at low speeds (neighborhood speeds about 25 mph or lower). At higher speeds its not as sensitive but IMHO it is quite a bit touchy. So this issue started a few months ago, after the crankshaft key fell out and the timing belt/chain slipped. The engine needed to be torn apart to replace a few items internally.
After that I was visiting my parents, and I wanted to give the car a test drive to make sure that all seemed to be ok. I was pulling out of the driveway and I went to stop so that I could put the car into "D", I barely pushed down on the pedal and it went down pretty fast and the car stop suddenly, I thought it was a fluke. This took place a few months ago after they freshly gotten the vehicle back.
Fast forward to last night, my parents were up visiting and I went and took their Passat to the gas station to fill it up for them. And the pedal was still pretty darn sensitive. I'm not too savvy with this kind of trouble shooting.
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I just got my car back from discount tire. Every time I accelerate above about 45 mph the traction light goes off Also, There is a shimmy in the brake pedal under braking.
NOW: there is ONE tire that is SMALLER than the rest that they put on or something. It is a different tire, same company, but obviously a bit smaller. Now, they told me it would be fine, despite my better judgement that It would preform weird as well as look slightly gimp. the tire went from driver rear to passenger front, and I'm willing to bet that is the cause of both problems. What should I do?
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I have a k04 turbo on the passat. (2000 b5) been having problems with it for longest time. however one night i was cruisn around and suddenly when car boosted the turbo went from the typical whistle to a whistle with a distinct buzzing noise (no to loud but very noticeable) almost like a bery dull sounding supercharger.
Ripped inlet hose off found that where the clamp is to hold on to turbo inlet was slit all the way through got new inlet hose hooked it up nothing happened. checked all turbo charge pipes and lines am going to double check again tomorrow. does this sound like a turbo issue or a leak issue. There is no loss in boost car was fixed and now runs great ... but this buzzing sound is annoying and kinda worrying me at the same time.
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I have a 2000 F-350,7.3, 6 speed. Just the other day I made a turn and my passenger got her feet wet. It had been raining and I also had the ac on. A couple of days later the same thing happened, but it had not rained, just the ac on. What is causing this. I do see condensate discharging under the truck.
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When I run the heater on high to be directed through the dash and foot areas here in Wisconsin, I receive wonderful heat from the dash, but ice-cold air to the feet. What is going on? Do I have a clogged heater core or line? Or could this be an easy fix I could do myself?
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I just got a 2000 1.8T Manual Passat last year. had about 98,000K miles on it when i got it. Engine light came on this year and now it has about 132,000K miles on it. time for a tuneup. what should I replace or do to it. Leaks oil a little from up under the engine somewhere, and the car shakes a bit at high speeds (120Miles/h). engine up front is kind of loud, sounds like air is leaking out up front somewhere when its running. I figured I could replace the air filter,valve cover, spark plugs, pcv valve, fuel filter, oil filter and change oil, and a good engine greasing. what else should I do? what else could I do. what else should i really do, I love the car, second one i have had of that year. first one was a automatic and the tranny went out.
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