Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Intermittent Check Brakes Signal?
Aug 20, 2011
2000 B5: new front rotors & pads 3000 miles previous. Now on sharp turns L or R the dash signal 'check discs' appears. Always resets upon restarts. Can be triggered by reversing the vehicle and bumps. Turns less than 90 degrees are usually not a problem. Both front wheels were pulled; no apparent wiring or connector problems. Any quick fixes? How to disconnect this electronic aide? and avoid the irritating "beep". I drive very low miles / year and know how to monitor brake wear.
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I have a problem with the Bold-Sport camera, but am not sure if it is the radio, the camera, or even possibly a fuse. I get a fault code with vcds that says the rvc control module intermittent/no signal. Once I clear the code, and put my car in reverse with the headlights on, the camera does not work, or works for a second, and shuts off. If i turn the exterior lights off, the camera seems to function normally. As soon as I turn exterior lights back on, camera no longer displays again. I have been having some problems with the rns-510, so am assuming it could be the radio, but am not too sure. The problem I have with the radio is that sometimes not all the interior light hard buttons light up. I will post up a pic as soon as I can.
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I have a 72 F250. When I put the left turn signal on and apply the brakes, the signal stops blinking. I checked the bulb and it was fine. What is the likely cause?
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Mine Door controller started out minor - randomly it would try to roll up the window multiple times when it was already closed, and I'd get "intermittent signal" errors from vagcom. I told the dealer about this, and they didn't want to fix it, and they tried to blame my C2 ECU flash for the door controller problem, possibly because there wasn't anything obvious wrong with it other than the VCDS errors.
Now it has decided to wig out totally - when I open the driver's door, a good 50-70% of the time the car thinks the door isn't open. The MFD doesn't light up, dome light stays off, fuel pump doesn't prime. Open the passenger door and the MFD does display and dome light turns on, but the driver's door will still show "closed" even though it is standing wide open.
If I don't start the car quick enough and I have no passenger, it will re-lock (since it thinks nobody ever opened the door). Weirder still, if I pull the interior handle with the door open, it will usually light up the MFD and show the door open, but only briefly - when I let go of it the door shows closed again. However, sometimes after pulling it a few times it "fixes" and the MFD will show open correctly and the door is fine, for a while...
It has not yet gotten stuck in an "open" position, as that would mean I couldn't lock the car.
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Alright so my mothers car is a 2000 passat 30v v6 5 speed and the check engine light will come on and off at random times. I had the codes checked yesterday and one was for the Mass air flow sensor and the other was for the "heated" oxygen sensor but what confuses me is that the light will shut off then turn back on a day later. I have to get this car through emissions for her and cant with the CEL
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Need to diagnose issue with LT signal operation? Recently started experiencing intermittent loss of directional signal when signalling left only. Right seems to be fine. Replaced CB at fuse panel, but no apparent improvement.
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I have an '07 Azera and the turn signal sound is intermittent. The signals flash normally, but sometime I hear the flasher sound inside the car and sometime it is dead silent. Cannot seem to correlate it to temperature or other factors. Any way, I assume as the lights flash with no sound that either the flash or the sound is electronically generated, but cannot be like an old school mechanical flasher. What makes the flasher sound in the Azera and where is it located?
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I have installed switchback led signal lights. The right side only turn signal lights will hyper flash until I have driven 10-15mins. and then they operate normally. The guys who installed the system went to a better resistor and nothing changed. My installer says he has never seen this issue before. The driver's side functions properly. both sides have always had resistors.
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The left turn signal blinker on Toyota works sometimes and not others. It is weird, it seems when the weather is cold, it works, warm weather it works sometimes.
The car is: 2002 Toyota 4-Runner, limited....
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How do I re-set CEL without a scanner ? I've heard about battery disconnect , but concerned about causing other issues . 2000 Passat V6 GLS wagon 4motion Tiptronic .
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It's a UK VW Passat year 2000 with 1.8i longitudinal engine layout. Car has ABS
I discovered that the brakes are not releasing quickly after application. Examples where this has been noticed:
When braking and accelerating at the same time to dry brakes after puddles. Noticeable lack of power to re-accelerate when you release the brake pedal, presumably due to continued braking. Noticeable continuation of braking when trailbraking into a corner (ok sometimes I'm a bit of a racer in a family car).
What concerns me is when the snow, ice or heavy rain comes back that I might find sudden instability if the brakes aren't releasing after slowing for a corner or that worse still I'm destined for total brake servo failure.
There are no ABS related error codes although in the ice and snow I did find that the ABS fired until the pedal raised stiff and all 4 wheels just locked up (that was a fun junction crossing).
I have noticed that the drainage ducts in the bulkhead are blocked but I've never had water enter the car so I don't think it's water in the brake servo although this could have happened prior to me owning it I guess.
Working theories:
Due to slave cylinder corrosion and calipers are releasing slowly
Due to brake servo fault - either water ingress of vacuum leak
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I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
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I have a 2002 Toyota Highlander. The rear right turn signal and break light don't work when I apply the brakes. When I use the turn signal or brakes while driving or parked there is no problem, but once I apply the break the back right side does not work. The light bulbs also burn out faster on that side.
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Buddy has a problem on his '03 F-450 cab and chassis. When he turns on a turn signal, everything is OK...but it goes out when he applies the brakes. Also, the brake failure light is lit up on the dash, despite the brakes being fine. These problems happened at the same time. I'm think a ground, but not sure where to look.
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I just received a check headlight signal on the dash. I did a visual check and it was the passenger high discharge lamp. I thought i saw a post on here one time at how to trouble shoot this or even change the lamp.
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My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
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99 Ranger XLT 4.0 4WD Automatic. With the turn signal blinking and I depress the brake the turn signal stops blinking until I release the brake. Where to start.
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A couple of days ago, my "Check Lights" warning came on as I used the right turn signal. After inspecting all of the lights on the outside of the car, I could see that the red led rear turn signal group was out (although it has sporadically come on a couple of times since then).
Just to be sure, I checked all of the related fuses in the front and rear fuse blocks, but they were all fine. It seems to me that this may either be a lose fitting or (since the tail lights are installed as one unit) I may have to have the right rear entire tail light group replaced.
Before I drop the car off at the dealer, looking for instructions as to how I could investigate further (open up the tail light and look for a lose wire) ?
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2006 Camry, intermittently the brake pedal sinks by going a inch or so further than normal. Car still stops and I don't think it is all the way at the floor. It is not very frequent, maybe 5% of the time. When it does occur it always happens on a second pump while slowing to a stop or turn, so the car is always going below 10 mph when it occurs.
Mechanic can find nothing wrong with the brakes themselves or any air in the lines. The fluid level is stable. I am guessing it is either the master cylinder or booster. Is there a way to diagnose which one it might be? Could it be a vacuum leak due to only showing up at low speed?
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Had an error come up on my dash. Check left turn signal. when i turned it on it was blinking fast so i figured the bulb was about to go. went to autozone changed the bulb. signal worked fine for a few days then got same error message again. Changed bulb again. same thing. went to ford and bought the bulb changed it again for the same problem. i used to gloved top install the bulb each time. Could it be i need a new socket. Truck only has 30K on it and was just at ford for service.
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2005 Lexus RX330. 98K miles. 2 year intermittent problem. When apply brakes the front end shimmies until car completely stopped then go again & all is well until at some future time it happens again. Dealer checked twice & private repair checked also. Nothing found. Tires re-balanced & rotated several times. Newer tires with no issues. This is an INTERMITTENT problem. The rotors have been, new pads & spring installed.
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