Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Idling At Certain RPM Usually Fluctuate Between 900 And 1100
Jul 20, 2013
I recently bought a 2000 passat 2.8 v6, and ive noticed that there is a dead spot in the rpms. It also will randomly have problems idling at a certain rpm usually will fluctuate between 900 and 1100 and i have to give it gas in order for it to stop. Also when you give it gas and try to hold it at a steady rpm it keeps going up and down and wont stay at one rpm speed. I thought it would either be the tps or idle control valve but cant quite seem to find it. planning on cleaning the TB soon and replacing some hoses to see if it clears it up.
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Inherited a 2000 Saturn SL1 from my daughter. I has an issue of idling high. It idles about 1100 rpm in park, but when I put it in gear that jumps up to about 2000 or so. I can hit 35mph w/o hitting the gas. There's also a noticeable suffer type smell from the car.
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i got a problem with my 96' 2.4 auto cavalier. It idles really rough at idle. I've replaced alternator, battery, idle air control valve, intake, plugs, and the fuel pump in the last year and a half. I've noticed that the rpms will fluctuate between about 625-675 when it's idling rough. About once every 11 seconds the car will rev up for a moment and will idle smooth but then it idle rough again. Every one in a while it will throw trouble code p0200 random multiple cylinder misfire.
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My girlfriend has a 03 celica gt with around 126k on it. most resent it has had a problem of high idle its sits anywhere from 1100rpm to 2000rpm. I replaced the the tps sensor figuring it was the problems it seemed to get more consistent with the new tps it now sits at 1100 but it may still be high I don't drive it a lot. And I forgot to mention no engine lite. I've herd its not common with toyota. I also looked for vacuum leaks as well but found nothing.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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VW Passat b5 1.9 TDi AVF engine ... When I start my car in cold the idle keep moving from 800 to 1100 rpm. and sometimes when i start the engine in hot it revs till 2000 rpm. I never scanned with vag com? I think G62 sensor problem???
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Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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While going a steady speed, my speedometer will fluctuate up and down around 3 miles per hour. It will happen at any speed.
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I recently noticed my 93 accord idling between 1,000 and 2,000 going up then down up and down when the car is in park but when i shift it into gear the car idle goes down to 700 but after driving i shift the car back into park the idle goes back up 1,800 rpm levels off than comes down to 1,000 rpm and i know this idle is too high because it cause my fans to come on sooner and more frequent its like im on the gas when I am not.
I did some research and came back fit fast idle thermo valve so I changed this valve twice and it still does the same thing i have no coolant leaks and no intake work was done so I don't think its a vacuum leak cause it only does erratic idle in park but in gear its fine so this is a puzzling one also I changed thermostat and flushed cooling system followed by a bleed of all the air out of the cooling system now on youtube they call this a hunting idle and is very notorious on 90-93 accords also when I drive down the road and let off the gas it lets of this high pitched whining noise sounds like a valve is getting stuck open.
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My accent had been sitting neglected for a few years. I decided as a side project I would get it in working order before winter and do more to it next spring. The car had a rough idle when started but I had ran it nearly all day a few months ago.
Last week I changed spark plugs and a few other minor things. The undercarriage was wire wheeled and coated with POR 15. This weekend I added gas (with gas cans, car is off road currently) and added techron fuel treatment. The car took two tries to start (always two) so I changed the fuel filter and that problem went away. However, I noticed that when the car idles it begins stalling when it reaches temperature. Thermostat says car is not overheating.
After 15 or so minutes of idling the car just cuts out and SOMETIMES will start but usually it just cranks and cranks. If I wait a bit it will start up again but will die more quickly and this will keep happening until I let it cool. I am also noticing a fairly loud clicking sound from behind fuel injectors. Not the injectors themselves but somewhere behind the fuel injector rail. I am unsure if this had been going on previously or if it is a symptom of the stalling problem.
I cleaned throttle body, IAC, crank and cam sensors though no error codes to speak of. Rough idle takes a few minutes as at first the engine is smooth.
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I have a 2000 Hyundai accent. Bought the car used at a lien sale over 3 years ago, with about 120k miles on it... it now has over 197k miles on it. I have changed the oil and filter religiously since I bought it, using Castrol GTX High mileage 5w30 synthetic motor oil. I have also (in the last year) replaced the plugs with platinum plugs, the plug wires, and the air filter. A the car has always made a tapping sound when idling since I bought it, but recently (in the last week), it makes little shoemaker sounds when I accelerate. I used to associate this with detonation and adjust timing (back in the day when you could put a timing light on a car and turn the distributor to set timing). Since timing is now controlled by the computer in the car, am I right in assuming that I need to replace the timing belt?
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What happened was, the car was not starting (its a manual, so I can push start). I replaced battery but accidentally put it in with the neg connected to pos post and pos. connected to negative.
The car was off when i did it so as far as i know I only blew a couple fuses. So I replaced the fuses and now the car is idling really high. So I cleaned the throttle body, still idling high.
Now, the car wont start unless pushed and I have no ac/heat (the fan has no power).
I have checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I have also tested the Throttle Position Sensor, it is fine.
Could it be the diodes, relays???
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My 2000 Honda CRV with 200K miles has a repetitious knock only when idling with the AC on, apparently the compressor clutch engaging and disengaging. The AC is cooling OK. I've had the compressor, dryer, and expansion valve replaced - twice - and the same knock continues.
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Recently, my car has been having issues starting. It will start if I get a boost, but will be dead if I turn it off again. Also, while I'm driving, the airbag, ABS, and traction lifts all come on, and eventually my radio will shut off, but after a few minutes the radio will come back on and the warning lights will go off. When i first start the car it idles as it should but if I rev it will idle at about 1100 RPM. What might be causing all of this? Battery? Alternator? Or EPC?
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I have a 2000 Ls 3.9 V8 125,000 miles that started idling rough.I checked for codes and got p0171 (bank 1 lean), p0175 (bank 2 rich) and p0307(cylinder 7 misfire). I swapped cop and sparkplug from cylinder 7 to cylinder 5 and erased the codes.I ran the engine for a while and rechecked the codes to see if the misfire followed the cop and plug. They did not. I still get p0171,p0175 and p0307 (cylinder 7 misfire).
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I have an intermittent knock under the hood, only when idling at a light etc. One mechanic replaced the AC compressor, expansion valve, etc - still a knock. They put in a second new compressor - still knocking. A second mechanic replaced the expansion valve - still knocking. Air conditioner has worked fine from the start.
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I have an '89 Jeep Cherokee and it idles way to high. In park it idles at from 1500-3000 after being warmed up. In drive it idles at 1300-1500. It idles at 2000 at 35 mph. We've replaced the O2 censor, the throttle positioning censor, the coolant temperature sensor, and a few other parts. None of this worked.
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Last week I got back from a two week trip and came to turn on my car (95k miles) and I quickly noted a flat. Put the car in park to check it, and all of the sudden the engine is revving--1500rpm up to about 3500rpm and back down, over and over again. Put on my spare and headed to the shop. The whole way there, about four miles or so one-way, the car could hit 40mph without me on the gas. I turned the car on/off about five times, still having the same issue. In total, I drove about 25 miles with this issue, then, all of the sudden it seemed to be solved.
My mechanic seemed troubled by it when he took a look. No one could diagnose the issue, just had the air leak that caused the flat on a Saturday afternoon fixed, but I haven't taken it back to them because the issue isn't happening anymore.
This comes on the heels of taking it in and having the fuel relay fixed because of the well-documented issue with this car stalling on start with warm temperatures. That fix was supposed to take care of things, but the issue still persisted following the fix.
2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe....
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Lately, my 1990 Integra has been idling VERY low. Some mornings, while idling at a stop, the rpms fluctuate up and down to the point where it almost dies. Is it just cold? I live in coastal San Diego, so it's not freezing here. This morning, had to keep my foot on the gas to keep the car from stalling before getting home from dropping son off at school. It died in the driveway. Started up just fine right afterwards, but idled down to nothing. Now it idles okay, but at a pretty low rpms, like usual. NOW, the battery, a SEARS Diehard Silver, is near the end of its usable life. Prorated 84,000 mile replacement warranty, but I have had it for 8.5 years and have 1 82,000 miles on it. YES! I have been meaning to replace it, as it is leaking some nasty stuff at the terminals, but wonder if the weird idling is a symptom of something else, since the car still turns over.
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What would make the oil pressure gauge fluctuate and go to zero? I already replaced the oil sending unit, and changed the oil and filter, whats left? maybe a bad gauge?
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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