Passat (B5) :: 2000 GLX Keeps Dying - Alternator Is Gone?
Aug 30, 2010
Well, the B5 continues to die when left overnight. Seems the Alternator is gone on this thing (my conception)
As soon as I give it a jump, it starts up right away. If I let it run for about 5-10 minutes and then try to restart it, it gives me no issues. If i come back the next morning it will be dead and will need another jump to get it started.
I am thinking that this is the Alternator. I don't have any warning lights that come on, such as "Alternator Worship". Car runs totally fine once its jumped. The battery is not even a year old.
Also, if it does turn out to be the Alternator, which one does my car take? 90amp or 120amp? The car is a 2000 GLX V6 Auto. What can I expect to have it replaced including labor??, or could this possibly be a DIY job? I'm trying to give it a chance before I throw it in neutral and push it off a cliff.
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My alternator went out last week. I installed a new alternator, battery and serpentine belt. However, the battery is still dying. So far I checked the continuity on the fusible link and it appears to be good. I also checked fuse number 11 which provides power to the voltage regulator. The fuse is not blown. The voltage at the battery while it is running is less than 12 volts and it drops the longer it runs. I also have codes b1318, b1932, c 1226, and c1284.
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2000 Chevrolet 3500, rear wheel drive Fleetwood, 5.7 liter engine. Slightly over 200k miles on it. I bought it used on June 2nd this year. Bought it from a construction company and they take good care of their vehicles. They must have used it a lot on dusty roads. I made sure the air filter and brake fluids are OK.
June 2014, got new rotor and spark plugs, then after the engine quit on the road home, I had a sensor replaced somewhere in the axle, or transmission, an odd place. Now after 2.5 months of smooth operation, the 5 year battery died (it lived almost 6 years). I put in a new 84 month, heavy duty battery yesterday. Got in the truck to start it up and "click." The battery is doing its thing, lights up the dials and lights if necessary. I turn the key and pause a moment, I hear the fuel pump turn on. Then I turn the key and "Click." The engine does not make any effort to turn over. "Click." Nothing. There is a half tank of gas in it.
I suspect maybe a solenoid as part of the starter, maybe the fuel pump, maybe a blown starter fuse, or blown fuel pump fuse. Thing is they are square fuses and I can't see inside of them whether something is worn out.
We live 60 miles from a Chevrolet shop and maybe 50 from a generic shop. Having the truck towed that far will cost a fortune.
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Installed new motor in 2000 celica gt after blown piston on monday the 17th. From monday 17th to thursday night on the 20th the car battery and alarm worked with no issues.
I was installing the touchscreen and sub in the car the night of the 20th and when i pulled the positive terminal from the battery to power the sub, then reinstalled the terminal but the alarm went off and would not disarm via the remote (that has worked for several years before the repair job). I tried replacing the battery but still nothing. i even check voltage on the remote board to verify output voltage when button was pressed.
I called Audiovox and they had me remove the 10 pin connector to disable the alarm and that worked. i drove the car home the night of the 20th. the morning of the 21st the car started fine and the audio system was installed and working.
The afternoon of the 22nd i went to start the car and it was dead. I have tried disconnecting the audio system to check that but the battery still dies overnight.
I used a amp meter to check the draw on the battery on on saw .94 amp with the door open and light on. i saw .14 amp's with the door shut and no light. This just doesn't seem like enough draw to drain the battery but i still have to pop the clutch in the morning to go to work.
I have noticed that my drivers door does not lock using the controls inside the car. I do not know what kind of alarm system is on the car, it has no markings on the case or the board itself. the serial number did not pull a single result in google. I called audiovox because that's who makes the shock sensor on the car, they say its universal.
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My Subaru 2000 Outback is dying occasionally when I come to a stop. It will stutter and die. I can restart it and everything is fine. It does not happen everytime, but happens more when I come to stop quickly, less when I come to a gradual stop. What is this?
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While jumping dead battery , there was horrible noise and smoke -- mechanic replaced alternator and the cooked battery. The 2000 Accord not used much, but after replacements , it was started and run regularly in driveway. But when driven light indicated battery not charging. Alternator replaced again. Car started fine several times, then was dead one morning after having been driven day before. Jumped again. No problem starting and running car for about a month. Drove car uneventfully about 20 miles. Next morning battery was dead again.
This time when car was jumped, it started fine, but after two minutes, same horrible noise and smoke as before. I do not wish to jump car again, but it seems unlikely that there would be two bad alternators in a row. Also it is curious that problem occurs after car has been driven but not when is run while sitting in driveway. What are likely causes for energy drain? Is a "specialist" on electrical circuitry called for? I have used this mechanic before with good results and AAA trusts him.
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B5 passat. Recently she took her car to the shop bc her cel was on. turned out her turbo was blown so she got it replaced with a brand new one along with the oil pump. about 3 days later the check engine light comes back on..idle is very rough and it feels like its misfiring.
First thing i did was check the coilpacks bc it was why my audi would always misfire but it didn't work. So she took it back to the shop and they said that her ecm is dying. Ive never heard of that happening.
The codes that came up from the CEL the second time were p0171, p0172, p0173, p0303
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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima GXE four-door sedan, which I purchased new. In May 2008, at 39,556 miles I had to replace the alternator. In January 2011, at 45,201 miles (+5,645 miles) I had to replace the alternator again. Now, in December 2013 at 49,630 miles (+4,429 miles) I have to replace the alternator for the third time. It just doesn’t make since that the less I drive, the more often I have to replace the alternator. The replacement alternators were remanufactured and not purchased from a Nissan dealer. Do you know what would be causing the alternators to fail? Do you think purchasing a new alternator from Nissan dealer would solve the problem?
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We began to get an intermittent cruise control failure (big exclamation point in the lower left of the MFD and no green "cruise" when the lever was clicked to "on") in my wife's 2007 2.0T Passat several months ago. During the same period she told me that the car occasionally didn't want to crank...although it always started on a second try. Well, to make a long story short, I had the battery replaced at the 60K service a couple weeks ago and the cruise has worked flawlessly ever since.
I put two and two together just before I took it in for service when the car showed failure of the antiskid system in addition to the cruise following a particularly difficult start. Sure enough, the new battery fixed it. Apparently some of the accessory systems go into a failure mode when they don't get enough current on startup.
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My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
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I have a 2000 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L with about 180,000 miles on it. I'm currently in the middle of a road trip, and today my car's been stuttering as I've started it up. After the car sits idle for a while, it stutters as I turn the key ("chug-chug-chug-chug-chu-chu-chu-chu-fail" is about how it goes). When I take the keys out and put them in again for another shot, it manages to start on the second or third try.
It runs OK once the engine gets going, and after I've been driving for a while I can turn it off and on again, without any problem. My main questions are: (1) Is this likely an issue with the starter, alternator, or something completely different? and (2) just how serious is it? If I can get the car running can I make it another ~1500 miles, or should I try to find a dealership before making it back home?
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My toyota will not idle. The last time this happened, it needed a new battery. The idle is controlled by the battery. The alternator doesn't kick in untill 1500 to 2000 rpms. The battery checks out OK this time. It's an 03 4cyl.
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The V10 in my service truck took the long slow ride. I located and am in the middle of replacing said engine. My question is, how difficult would it be to install a second alternator in this truck, considering I have it torn down for replacement?
It a 2000 F350 with a V10. I'm looking for more power as I have mounted on the Knaphiede service body a IMT 1015 crane, 3200 lb capacity. I would like to install a power inverter to be able to run an air compressor in the field.
Am I looking for a new harness? Etc?
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I have a 2000 V6 F150 and replaced my alternator in about five minutes and now have been trying to re-install the serpentine belt for about 6 hours. How do you grab the tensioner pulley?
Also I selected the 130 amp new manufactured alternator at Advanced. Auto thinking the 130 amp might be somewhat of an upgrade to my original Motorcraft Alt and after several hours I also discovered them. pulley on the new alternator is about a quarter inch larger in diameter than the original alternator. I wonder if I should compensate for a half inch longer belt or try to get the same one on.
In any case I cannot find a way to grab and move the belt tensioner to allow me to reinstall the belt around the alternator. Are there any pictures anywhere on how to move the tensioner to create slack when reinstalling the belt?
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I am having an overcharging issue with my 2000 F350 diesel. It first started when I had a garage check the batteries due to poor starting this winter. They found one reading 6V and I had them replace it. After that the battery light came on. So I had them check it out again and they replaced the other battery. I can't remember if it started before or after the second battery but it started overcharging 16-17 volts according to the dash. I replaced the alternator still overcharging. Since then I have run a 4ga ground from one battery to the alternator and a 4ga ground wire from the other battery to the cab. I also checked most of the stock ground wires which all seem fine. Lastly, I also bought a ford alternator pigtail because one of the wires had cracked insulation and some corrosion. Currently it overcharges unless the battery light comes on which once it does the voltmeter in dash reads normal.
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Over the weekend I was driving my 2000 F350 and the alternator died (found out later). The shop said they replaced the alternator but it wasn't charging. They later told me it was because the isolator failed. My 2nd battery WAS a yellow gel battery. Before the battery (in series) was an 50 amp circuit breaker...........that blew apart.........and the battery had a melted off side terminal. It looked like the 'sealed gel battery" had been 'leaking for a while" (as there was funky acid type white corrosion deposits in a few places. Any speculation what happened here?
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I have a 2000 excursion that stopped charging. The battery light is on . I replaced the alternator but it still will not charge. I have checked all the fuses. Not sure where to go from here...
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Trying to change the stupid alternator in my 99 A6, which is the same engine/accessory layout as the B5 Passat.
And I didn't realize what I was in for. Is there any way to get to this puppy without dropping the entire front end? By looking at it (nobody stocks Audi,Bentley) it looks like the front end has to come apart all the way to the radiator support..........
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Happy owner of a TDI - SEL for just over a year. One week shy of my 40K service, the alternator failed. All repairs covered with my extended warranty. Tech said he hadn't seen another alternator go bad and certainly hadn't seen a 1 year old TDI with 40K miles! Any alternator issues? otherwise been quite happy with the car.
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Replacing the alternator on my wifes 2003 v6 passat. Not a mechanic by any means but I have plenty of time and all the tools for the job.
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Looking for Instructions and pictures...
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