I have a 00 Passat GLS.
When i accelerate, whether it's hot/cold/wet/dry outside, the car almost stalls. I have not had it stall yet, usually out of pure fear, i drop the pedal to the floor, and i catches up. I have had this happen at very inopportune times, like joining traffic. The car does a sort of stutter step.
I know little about new cars, but i feel like the fuel or air aren't making it through nicely.
My girlfriend has a 2000 Alero 4 door. This car is basically our only mode of transport. I'm disabled and I'm trying to keep the car running as best I can. Just recently the car would stutter at complete stops. Then it went to stalls. This doesn't happen when it's cold only when it's warm and within operating temps.
I replaced the TPS but the stuttering and stalling is still happening. I'm ready to go through the car to find the problem... but I don't know where to go from here. I've cleared the computer to clear any dash lights and hoping it would reset the TPS. This didn't work.
I have a 2000 Passat 1.8T 5spd that today started stalling out. I start it up and it idles fine but when I go to give it gas, it stalls out at around 1600 RPM. My guess is that the Fuel pump may be bad, or i have got bad plugs or coils. It was running fine this morning but it just started doing this around an hour ago.
View 7 RepliesI have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
I just bought a 2000 VW passat GLS 1.8T, and I'm having a very odd problem with it... I have trouble starting it, almost like the starter is going out, then it starts and runs fine, then I'll be driving and the screen on the gauge cluster will say stop and I'll start getting a beep, if I don't stop the car dies, if I do then it just sort of putters for a second and then goes back to normal, when it dies it loses all power completely everything shuts off then it resets. At first I thought it was the starter, then it started doing this.
View 2 RepliesI'm trying to fix a B5 1.8t Passat, it is usually a pretty quick car but recently it has had an issue where it "stutters" when accelerating. Meaning, if you put your foot down, it doesn't "take off" right away (you can't get the wheels to squeal) (not that I would try to do that normally). I know how the car used to feel, so it's not turbo lag or the ABS kicking in. It seems to behave normally after the initial stutter, it's most noticeable in 1st gear. I replaced the gas and air filters for fun, but no dice. No codes on VCDS shareware.
I can think of a few theories based on searches, but am not sure how to proceed;
- Plugged cat: expensive, not sure how to diagnose positively to avoid throwing money.
- Turbo issue? Wanted to hook up a gauge to see if the turbo is boosting correctly. Need to find a place to plug in.
- Clutch? Unlikely as the RPMs don't jump, and in third it doesn't slip. The acceleration makes it feel like something is slipping though
- ABS misbehaving? Light isn't showing up though.
I have a 2000 Echo with just over 200,000 kms on it. The problem I am having is that when the car is started it will idle fine but when put into gear will randomly stutter and sometimes die. After is has run for about 10 mins it won't die but still stutters quite a bit. The problem gets worse the colder it is outside. If it's above 0 deg C it won't die but still stutters. At highway speeds it almost feels like the car gets jerked backwards for a split second every time the engine stutters (misfiring?).
Spark plugs are about 1 year old. Just put in a new air filter and oil change. A friend suggested it might be some water in the tank but fuel line antifreeze and sea foam has made little improvement.
2000 Hyundai Accent GS, 1.5l, 4cyl SOHC...
I have a slight issue. A few weeks ago, I put some "STP" style fuel injector cleaner into my gas tank. Either A) It cleaned everything really well and clogged my injectors, or it turned into gunk and possibly clogged something else up.
Ever since that day, my issue is that the car "stutters" very slightly. When idling, it'll "hiccup." When I'm doing normal driving, 55-60mph at 2k RPM, It'll almost feel like a transmission slip.
I've went and replaced my Fuel pump, filter, and now I've done half a can of seafoam through the brake line power booster (vaccuum) straight into the engine, and the other half into my oil for further cleaning. I also applied Seafoam Deep Creep into my throttle body, just for further maintenance.
Ever since then, everything has been running noticeably better, and I've had a huge increase in gas mileage, but there's still a slight hiccup that occurs during idle and driving.
I change the oil /filter, plugs, wires, air filter on a regular basis.
I also had to change the MAF at one point in time, as it died and the car wouldn't start at all.
Next thing I'm thinking about doing is changing the plugs / wires one more time (it's been about 5 months since my last change) just to see if I bought a faulty plug.
The car was put on a computer and the only error code that came up was one about my check engine light being out.
B5.5 2001. When I am giving her gas you feel her stutter. But its not like a misfire stutter. Its more like a lose of power. Its almost like shes switching from boast to naturally aspirated. These stutters can also last a few seconds at a time. Where to start looking?
View 5 RepliesWhen my car was brand new, in 2004, I had to take it in for its Tiptronic software to be updated. Apparently there was a Tech Service Bulletin on the 2004 V6 Passats where this faulty software caused the car to hesitate and stutter between 1st and 2nd. At the time, the problem was fixed right away at my dealership.
Now my car has 40,000 miles, and has been flawless. I took it in for the 40,000 mile service, and my car came back from being serviced with several problems mostly minor--the AM radio is suddenly static-y, the tires were all underinflated by 18 psi's. But a more serious problem is that the hesitation and stutter that I detected when the car was new 2 years ago is back! I can't believe I brought a perfectly working car in for 40,000 mile checkup, and now have these issues.
I have an 07 6speed MT w/ 82K on the clock. Today it was snowing on the ride home and I noticed a few occasions where the car felt like it was bucking for just a split second. No warning lights came on at any time. The RPMs and speed never changed when it bucked. I was driving between 35 - 55 MPH when it was occurring in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear. No correlation to accelerating, decelerating, or coasting on highway that I could figure out.
Given that the snow was covering even the treated road surfaces, I suspected it might be connected to the ESP, so I turned it off for a while. Still happened.
I didn't notice any abnormal engine noises and it was fine on my ride to work in dry conditions earlier in the day.
I haven't had any work done on it recently and I am getting the 80K service done next week. It has no engine mods done at all. All stock.
Could it have been the tires slipping on wet spots? But happening so quickly the traction light never came on? Or should I look for other issues in the engine?
I purchased a 2014 3.6 SEL from a non VW dealer. They may have put regular gas in the car, I feel like it runs weird, feel a delayed throttle response and a little stutter before acceleration? or is it just me?
View 6 Replies2000 F250 7.3L ZF 6spd 4x4 regular cab long bed 253k
DP F6 chip, 4" exhaust, WW2, EBV delete
I run 5w40 Rotella Synthetic. Oil was changed about 1,000 miles ago. I also added a quart of Hot Shot stiction eliminator. I use Power Service and Stanadyne lubricity in every tank. Fuel filter is new.(motorcraft)
For a month or so its been acting weird. I get a stumble/miss/stutter, at random, but mostly under hard acceleration and high rpm (specifically approx 2500-2800rpm). It will also do it on decel when I lift after accellerating . Recently, I noticed it is also idling roughly. The engine is shaking and it feels like a miss. When it does its "thing" it sounds like a single "knock". Occassionally, it sort of sounds like an injector "buzzing". I've been using the "stock" tune for the last few weeks, to minimize any chance of engine damage, as I have to drive it. Turning up the chip makes the problems more noticeable and happen at a lower rpm. The truck has plenty of power, and pulls hard, except for the "stutter". If I hold my foot in it to "push through" the initial stumble at 2500 or so, it will keep going a few hundred more rpm, and then really start bucking.
There are no meaningful codes. I DO have:
EBV related soft codes - makes sense since its deleted.
Overboost related codes- from turning the chip up - won't happen in stock setting
A soft code for the back pressure SENSOR. I have a new one and will be cleaning the tube when I get a chance. I unplugged the sensor and it made no difference in the miss issue.
I have recently done the following in pursuit of a solution to all this:
New IPR (autozone) valve and pigtail
New ICP (motorcraft) and pigtail ( sensor had oil in it)
New CMP and pigtail. (2 actually. First a standard pc139 for the obs, and currently a Napa echlin correct for '00) No change. Although it initially had the dreaded Ford small head light grey sensor and failed cct for #3 & 8. After the cps change, it passed cct.
Accellerator Pedal Position Sensor. It would not read any higher then 3.95v at wot, and only 0.50v at idle, so I installed a new one. After adjusting it a little, I have 0.76v at idle, and 4.02 at wot. Didn't affect the stumble issue, but it seemed to greatly improve/eliminate my parking lot speed "bucking".
I just did the UVCH's. The passenger side was pretty much unplugged. But they all looked good. No burnt, melted,or chafed wires anywhere. I probably could have just plugged it back in, but I changed both sides with new Motorcraft parts anyway. I did the gaskets and the uvch, but not the engine side harness/pigtail, as they looked ok. I also did the 0.50 mod as a preventative measure. After seeing the unplugged harness, I really thought this would be the end of the problem, but its not. Very frustrated.
As a side note, I was surprised to see that I have 8 AD injectors, and not an AE in cyl 8.
I have an old outdated snapon scanner. Its only good up to '99, but I am able to scan my 2000 as a '99. I think I'm missing some pids though.
I can do cct and buzz test, but no PERDEL readings.
As far as ICP, it idles at about 450psi, at approx 12% IPR dc. On a brief 2nd gear wot run, it will hit (and hold as long as I have road to stay in it) a little over 2900psi, at 41-42% IPR duty cycle. I did notice, during these near instantaneous stumble events, ICP would flutter on the scanner about 75-100psi. Its almost too quick to even see it.
Our 2001 Passat wagon 4cyl turbo automatic has a random idle stutter. When sitting at a stop light the RPM's quickly drop and then regain idle. It happens at random times and only when idling after the engine has warmed up. It doesn't seem to matter if its in drive or park. What sensor could be failing or a possible cause? Over the past year the problem has increased from almost never to a few times at every stop light. My OBDII reader shows no codes. Car has 105K miles and I cleaned the throttle body.
View 2 Replies2001 V6 Passat with 125k miles throwing a P0430 code.
Having trouble on cold starts, takes about 10 minutes to finally get it to turn over. When it does the idle is extremely rough. For the first 1/4 mile the car bucks, stutters, and misfires. After that it runs fine and starts fine when already warm. I am noticing slightly decreased gas mileage but nothing major.
Valve cover gaskets were replaced 2 months ago, but were leaking oil for at least a year before I could afford to have them replaced. I am still noticing some oil leakage, however not as much as before. I have had both O2 sensors replaced twice in the past 5 years. Timing belt was replaced at 98k. What might be causing the starting issues?
I had the transmission filter and fluid changed at the local VW dealership had some issues with that but they straightened that out and its been fine for a while well then about 2 or 3 weeks ago i was trying to mess with an audi and hit the gas (has the 6 speed auto tranny) and the car kinda stuttered and the check engine light flashed probably 4 or 5 times then went off, it did that a few times after that then my wife was driving it and it did that stutter again and the light stayed on, the code said misfire on cylinder 2..
So I replaced the plugs today and it did fine at first but when i got to about 55-60 and went to speed up and it started to miss pretty bad then steadied out and sped up. no check engine light or anything but it was missing.
2009 Passat 2.0 TSI. Purchased new in Nov. 2009. The car is 2 years and 3 months old. It has 28xxx miles. Maintenance regularly performed. (Mobil 1 0W-40 every 4-5 thousand miles...)
I was driving the car yesterday afternoon when about 2 minutes after leaving home the car's check engine light turns on along with the EPC light after a minute. the car started to stutter with light smoke. I drove home immediately to call the dealership. I scanned the car and it had two cylinder related fault codes. I believe 'Cylinder 2...' and 'Cylinder disabled?' Unfortunately I did not write down the codes as I was in a fury.
The dealership tells me to bring the car in as soon as possible 10 minutes later, I turn the car on and relatively heavy white smoke continues with excessive stuttering especially while in park. Additionally, the muffler sounded as if it was sputtering out the white smoke (1920s train in color and noise). I drove the car slowly to the dealership and noticed difficulty accelerating to 15 miles per hour. I did not try to go above that.
I just had the intake manifold replaced 4-5 weeks ago since I had a check engine light related to that.
I have a 2000 hyundai accent. I shut it off in my driveway earlier and went in long enough to use the bathroom and when i came back the car would not start. I squirted gas in the intake and it fired right up. A little later i was in town and it stalled and would not re-start. I had to walk to the store and get some ether to get it started back up. I have noticed since the first time that it will cut out every now and then for just a second and then go again while running down the road at around sixty mph... im at a loss as the local mechanic's computer wont hook up to it and there is no place to check the fuel pressure as i had wondered if maybe that was the problem having had another car do that before. the check engine light is not on either
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
View 1 RepliesAny way, my 2000 Pontiac Sunfire will randomly not accelerate while I am driving. I was initially rolling up to a red light so took my foot of the gas at about 20 mph, then the light turned green so I tried to hit the gas but nothing happened for about 5-7 seconds. So I was just coasting, but then I hit the gas and everything was fine. It did this a second time on the way home. Two days later I went to start my car and it wouldn't start. Nothing was happening--no noises, nothing. So I got my battery tested--Autozone tested it and said it was bad, but after replacing the battery nothing happened still.
Then a "mobile mechanic" came and stuck a screw driver into the starter to short circuit it so it made a sound like it was trying to start, but didn't. Then after a few minutes he looked and my radio was on and it started with the key. Since then it has not started only one time when I used a screw driver to start it myself, but when I was on a steep incline last night it kept not accelerating if I made it work too hard. I would be at ~65 mph and it would just quit so I'd pull off the side of the road and it would drop to ~40 mph for ~5-7 seconds, then I'd hit the gas again and it would go just fine. It did this about 3-4 times. One time all the lights on the dashboard flashed on when it wouldn't go. One time it just completely stalled on me when I was driving. I pulled off the side of the road and started it again and it was fine.
I have an automatic 2000 Accent.. It stalls after a short distance. I changed the wires, spark plugs, and today I changed the fuel filter and put some injector cleaner but no change.. right after the filter change, it seemed to be OK but I drove about 10 minutes on highway and it stalled again.
If I wait about 10 minutes it starts again but not for long.. According to this, what else can it be?