Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Boost Decreases To 5 Psi / Oil Cooler Needed?
Apr 22, 2008
I've got a 2000 passat 1.8t (ATW) Tiptronic with a GIAC chip a trubo smart bov and a new performance boost gauge. I've got a problem. My gauge habitually indicates me that i peek to around 15psi to after drop to around 11 but if i drive my car to hard for to long or i get to around 180kph, my boost decreases instantaneously to 5 psi. After, the only way to regain my boost is to let the car cool down on idle for 2min an then turn it off for 2min.
After that, every thing comes back to normal. If I don't do that, the car wont regain boost. You can drive like a grand-mother for 45 min and put your foot down you'll still see the boost go up to 5psi and just stop increasing. It's like it set itself an other max boost limit. I though it could be some sort of a safe mode because the turbo is over heating (it's red hot). I thought a oil cooler could maybe resolve the problem but i don't want to spend 200buck on that if it doesn't do anything.
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Got everything done today. So I thought. Went for a drive. turbo not building boost. I checked the map hose and barb. Clean. Checked connection at ebp and vct, both plugged in. No exhaust leaks. turbo shafts feels good and spins good. made boost fine before repairs. 2006 6.0 f250 .....
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So I was driving for 6 hours yesterday and about 3 hours in my boost completely cut out on the highway. I didn't get any CEL or EPC light or anything. I took a look under the hood and everything looks okay. I also thought maybe the turbo blew but it isn't smoking or anything. What it could be?? Or some way I can diagnose the problem?? I have a 6 hour drive back home and would like some boost! It is a 2000 Passat 1.8T ....
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When lowering your vehicle one side has to be adjusted alot more. I was lowering my vehicle to make the rear even. Notice that the passenger rear had to be lowered more than the driver side.
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For an '04 Passat Wagon with manual transmission. NO 4-motion.
I'm buying liter bottles of gear oil G052911A2 and need to know how many to get for a full fluid change.
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So back in the fall when the clocks needed changing, i changed the clock in the passat, and every so often i'll get in the car and its back an hour. i'll fix it, but then it goes back to being an hour behind. sometimes it takes a few days but it always gets behind an hour. I've tried researching this but found nothing.
When i installed my winter wheels (w/o sensors), the low pressure warning came on, so i disabled TPMS via VAGCOM. everything was fine for a few weeks, but now it says tire pressure too low constantly. I checked with my vagcom and the tpms is still unchecked in can gateway.
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I have a 04 that has 153k on it. 4" cat back exhaust with no cat. SCT tuner running a custom street tune. New FMIC with the extra tune on it. Head gaskets where done at 90k along with ARP studs. EGR cooler, The oil cooler was cleaned, New coolant tank. 1-new head and The cooling system was flushed at 90K. All done by the dealer along with some other items. Installed a bypass coolant filter at least 60k miles ago.
I have been having a no heat issue sometimes at idle this past winter and a mystery loss of coolant. I replaced the cap with a OEM one. I did a vacuum test on the coolant it held at 25 inches for well over a 1/2 hour. Pulled the egr valve it looked somewhat like tar inside not 100% dry. At startup it sometimes blows some white smoke and other times it's black smoke. I've had the scan gauge on for the last week to check my deltas.
Running 65mph the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
Running 70mph the deltas stayed around 14-16 degrees diff.
Yesterday just running around rural roads 55mph and under the deltas stayed around 10 degrees diff.
I have not found a lower pressure gauge to do a coolant pressure test.
It does look as though it has burped the cap. Because of the deltas I'm thinking a plugged oil cooler my be the problem.
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How to replace the oil cooler on a W8 6 spd wagon. Dealer says $1K plus labor. Is it possible to do it with average wrench turning skills? Also, does Bentley cover the W8 in the normal Passat edition?
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I've a 2000 Chevy Monte Carol, 110K miles, 3.4L. How to remove the transmission cooler line that connects to the radiator. Can't seem to break the bolt loose that screws into the radiator. Not sure whether this is a quick connect fitting or not! it definitely doesn't seems like it. Also having problems removing the fan shroud. It doesn't seem to want to come out. Should this be remove prior to removing the cooler line?
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So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
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Not sure whats going on here. Could this be normal and I've just never seen it? I dont see oil ANYWHERE else under there. Just in this 1 spot.
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Does the oil cooler have to be removed to change out the oil pressure switch? If not, any pix or how-to posted around? Done a Google but apart for Jetta 2.0L nothing seems to come up
Believe it's located on top of the oil filter bracket according to ETKA, but that doesn't show what components are around or on top of it
Am fitting a 42DD re-location unit so I can have the switch and a GlowShift oil pressure sender onto it. Car was on a lift yesterday but couldn't see a way to get at it
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Had a small leak on show up in my transmission cooler line at the radiator connection. After replacing the o-ring, which was pinched, I had lost some fluid up to about 3-4 oz. I had stopped by the local VW dealer and picked up a liter of ATF fluid and noticed the colors of the fluid differed from what drained out from the cooler line. Fluid that drained out was a cloudy darker green/grey and the new ATF fluid had a clear yellowish tint. Is this vehicle equipped with a closed loop cooling system or does it use the actual ATF fluid as the cooling medium?
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I have recently bought a 2000 Grand Prix GTP sedan it has the 3.8 series 2 supercharged I believe it's the m90 supercharger when I bought the car I replaced tie rod ends gas tank fuel filter plugs ( AC Delco professionals) and plug wires ( dura last ) plastic elbows for coolant Water pump harmonic balancer and did and ac bypass because it had locked up on me and in doing so ruined the harmonic balancer I run nothing but 93 octane fuel but I'll get to the point when I had bought the car it sat for a year and It had no problems building boost that seemed evident anyways but not when I build boost there is a loss of power like a miss if I go to wot and hold it while it's doing this the SES light will come on and flash at me.
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I have a 2000 Jetta 1.8t. I am having a sudden boost surge problem. It seems no matter what gear I am in if I get on the gas when getting on the highway or whatever to just get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time, the boost just increases like crazy. I do have Gonzo Tune and know I should have a faster response but I have been in higher built mk4's and they don't do this.
I have done the following to try and fix problem and some cause it was just time to replace:
New MAF
New N75
Fixed Leaks
New Plugs
New coil packs
New Fuel Filter
I do have a boost gauge and when cruising my vac is steady. The sudden surge of boost goes to almost 20 psi. I have thought of replacing my wastegate actuator since I have heard that can be a problem?
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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I have a 2010 Camry XLE and just had the AC Evaporator Replaced. After the replacement, I have noticed problems with the AC fan. Specifically, when accelerating, the volume of air coming through the vents decreases. When stopped at traffic lights or when I take my foot off the accelerator, the AC air returns to normal. Even when idling in Park and then press the accelerating, I can feel less air coming out of the vents.
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I have my Prius II 2010 with 3700 miles. The avg MPG was around 52-54. After I installed the fog light, (I installed it myself), the MPG dropped to 42-44. I drive the same way as I drove before. I don't think the fog light would take 10 MPG in order to be turned on. What is going on?
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I love my 2003 Honda CR-V and it works perfectly except for the cruise control. It may work for 5 miles or 200 miles, but at some point while riding along just fine the car bucks, decreases and then increases speed, and then the cruise disengages. Once this happens, it takes a long time for the cruise control to take hold again. This is an intermittent problem and almost impossible for a mechanic to figure out. I'd love to solve this mystery as I plan to keep this car for at least 300,000 miles! I'm only up to 179,000.
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
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Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
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