I have a 00 Passat 1.8T and the blower fan for A/C and heat has been intermittently squealing. I can sometimes get it to go away by changing the speed of the fan but I was wondering if there is any way to lubricate it up. Or should I just be looking for a new fan.
View 3 RepliesAll was fine with it until a month or so ago. Now, after the car is first turned on and the AC is turned on, it makes a terrible squealing sound. The moment the AC is turned off it stops. If the AC is left on, it will generally make the noise for a good 20 seconds, stop, and then repeat that a couple more times(and the noise will cease for as long as the car is on).
I popped the hood and took a look (I'm assuming the compressor is on the lower left), and when the AC is off it spins fine. However, when the AC is turned on, the fan starts up, then it visibly stops spinning and really struggles to spin, causing the noise. Do I need a new compressor?
I have a 2000 b5 wagon with a 2.8 5spd with 200k on it .... Its slammed on coils and i get this squealing in reverse i dont know what it is i just rebuilt the front end ie control arms... also have a nasty vibration from 1000rpms to 3000 rpms could that be engine mounts/snub mount?
View 7 RepliesSo, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
I recently purchased a 2000 1.8T passat that had the engine rebuilt apprx. 16K mi. ago (didn't find out until after I bought the car). After doing an oil change, they day I brought it home, and using a synthetic (Mobil-1 5w-30) the oil light started to come on intermittently. I took it to the shop and had the oil pump replaced, and a couple of day's later it came on again. I took it back to the shop and had the oil pressure sending unit replaced and a day later it came on again. When the light comes on it only stays on for about 5 seconds and goes out. I feel like I'm chasing a ghost. The engine is not making any noise and seems to run o.k.
View 1 RepliesI have "new to me" 2000 VW Passat GLX (station wagon). Intermittently at @ 30 mph it will make a thunk and momentarily "brake" as if it just hit a pot hole. I assume its transmission related, but what am I looking at to repair it?
View 3 Replies2000 passat GLX, tip, 2.8L v6... new brake pads and freshly turned rotors, but both the "ABS" light and the "BRAKE" lights come on intermittently whilst driving. It doesn't happen every time it's driven, just maybe 1/3-1/2 of the time, and it is only on for a bit before it turns off, but it will usually turn on again later for a short stint as well.
View 3 RepliesKnow that squealing sound a belt makes when it's loose and needs to be replaced? Well what is it when you hear that sound, but you know it's not a belt? It happens intermittently, usually when the car is cold...and it's been happening more and more lately...like whatever the problem is, is getting worse
View 8 RepliesThe AC/power steering belt in my 2004 Santa Fe, 2.4L has intermittently squealed for some time, but lately the squeal has gotten louder. Initially it only happened when the compressor was on, but now it happens when the compressor is off. I have not experienced a loss in steering power but I did notice that the power steering fluid appears to be discolored. I have replaced the belt and re-tensioned it several times hoping this would solve the issue, but it hasn't. I intend to take the belt off again and see if the pulleys all spin freely. When I replaced the belt initially, everything did spin freely. My guess is that the power steering pump may be shot and is putting excessive load on the belt, however, there is no PS pump "whine" and again, no loss of power steering. It looks like I should also check for separated pulleys.
View 3 RepliesI am trying some troubleshooting based on various things I found for my 2010 Toyota Highlander blower motor. The issue is that my blower motor operates intermittently. Here are the symptoms and what I've done so far:
-Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. It seems to be dependent on weather (in the sun for awhile and doesn't seem to like that), although lately it doesn't really seem to matter. Had it in my garage yesterday and it just works some times and not other.
-If it works, all speeds work (full range). That makes me think it doesn't have to do with the resistors, although I can't find the electrical schematics for the car.
-All fuses are fine
-I have jiggled all wires and can never get it to work (if not working at the time) or to not work (if working at the time), so I don't think loose wires are the issue.
-I put a multimeter across the leads going to the motor and always get voltage. When the car is on, it's about 13-14V, and when it's not running just above 12V.
-The rear blower motor works perfectly, 100% of the time
-Light physical agitation of the motor doesn't make it come on or go off
My main question is what is the 3rd lead going to the motor? The two bigger leads are the voltage, but that seems to always be there, even with the car off. I'm guessing the 3rd lead is some control signal for the motor but not sure. I can't ever get a voltage on that lead, but I'm not sure I'm even supposed to. When the motor was supposed to be on and it was working, I unplugged it and checked the voltages, but got the same readings as when it wasn't working.
I've got a 2005 with almost 300,000 miles and just recently the A/C blower has intermittently failed to start up. However, if I give the console a smack on the driver's side of the nav screen the unit usually starts up.
Now, I am assuming it is the start of an electric motor failure in the A/C Blower unit, however, the blower is apparently located under the passenger side glove box. So I am wondering if that is whee the blower is why does smaking the driver side of the nav screen start up the motor?
I have had this car for about a year now, no problems other than the check engine light has come on and after a code check found out its the Cat converter *yay*.
Most recently the A/C blower is working rather intermittent, can start off blowing just fine and then the blower seems to decrease while the screen still shows it on high. AC temp is just fine, just the blower is having issues. Sometimes it will turn off all together and not come back on at all for several hours. I am thinking it might be the fan motor, but I don't know enough about these cars to say for certain.
Fan blower will only run on high speed intermittently.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
Front Blower Motor does not work. 2005 Honda Odyssey, EX-L130,000 miles and I expect at least 170,000 miles more.
History – Over the past four years, the front blower motor has operated intermittently. I noticed that when the weather went through large changes (warm/humid to cold/dry or vice versa), the fbm would not run. The system behaved in the manner described by Honda owners in many of the forums online. After a period of time passed, the blower would function properly again until the next weather change.
About two months ago, the blower stopped working again and it has not returned to form since. The system again displays all the usual symptoms reported on-line. The rear blower works fine.
The controls on the dash seem to be fine (display changes appropriately as I select settings, vents open and close for heat or A/C or which vents I want open). Air flows through the vents selected when I am driving – I have a passive windshield defroster!
Here are the steps that I have taken during the past week:
1.Bought a new transistor/resistor module, OEM Honda Part #79330-SDG-W41 (I checked with a local dealer for the correct part number). I installed it but there is no change in the system.
2.I found information on-line to test the T/R. I checked the old one – Thermal Cut Out is intact and the resistance between posts 3 & 4 (lower pair when installed) is 1,500 ohms. I checked the new transistor and it read out the same.
3.Fuses, relays, power to the blower, blower, ground beyond the transistor are all fine.
4.I reconnected the T/R and fbm and let the fbm lay on the car floor. I started the car with the fan on. Each time I start the car (or turned the ignition ‘On’) the fbm tries to run, but stops in an instant.
The Rat is cornered – it's in the the T/R and the control signal from the control panel to the T/R corner. If I bypass these elements, the fbm goes on and off as I select the fan On/Off from the control panel.
My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
So for a few months now, my car has been making a subtle clicking noise whenever I have the ac or heat on, kind of similar to the noise spokes on a bike would make when children put a card in them. The noise increases/decreases in speed as I adjust the ac/heater speed.
Recently though, it's gotten to a point where sometimes, the blower motor would completely stop working. I can still feel heat and cold coming through the vents when I turn the AC on, but the it doesn't always blow air. I've noticed that sometimes when I hit a bump in the road, it starts working again. It works at all settings and all temperatures perfectly (when it's working that is).
How should I proceed? I don't know much about cars, but from what I've seen on the internet, it doesn't seem too difficult to replace the blower motor. I just want to be sure that the blower motor is indeed the cause, because I don't want to install a new one to be disappointed when I turn it on and still have the same issue. And winter is just around the corner so I would love to get this taken care of.
My wife has a 06 Sonata with the Manual AC controls. The blower motor works intermittently. Sometimes it works, other times it does not. It does not matter which setting the HVAC is in. Yesterday while driving it, we went over a bump in the road and the motor started running again. Since the motor runs, I want to discount the fuse and relay.
View 9 RepliesAround 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on low speed but not high and this blows never). What it could be?
View 4 RepliesMy 2004 camry LE (235K miles) has had a noise associated with the blower for several months. The blower worked fine on all settings but had a subtle noise that was between a purr and a click. It's constant, fast-paced, rhythmic and rises in pitch as the blower setting is changed. Hot or cold settings don't make a difference. The closest I can approximate is the sound made when kids put (or used to put) playing cards in the spokes of their bikes.
However in the last couple months the blower has stopped working intermittently. Sometimes it will come back on if I went over some railroad tracks or a hard bump. If I turn the car off the blower may not work when it's restarted. The last couple days it's stopped doing even that, and since there's snow on the ground it has become an issue! The fan setting doesn't make a difference, high or low.
Around 8 months ago my blower fan started intermittently blowing and eventually quit. The chain shop near my house told me no question it was the blower motor gone bad. Last night I replaced the blower motor (pretty cheap part) and still nothing. I can feel the engine change idle when I turn the cooler on but nothing blows. My regular mechanic told me he thought it was the resistor based on my description (though I had assumed with a resistor issue it would tend to blow on high speed but not low and this blows never).
The diagnostic fee if it isn't the resistor is $60 an hour so I have a feeling it will be cheaper to just swap out all the parts. I have a feeling it is the relay but I am worried that since I can tell the engine changes idle when I turn the AC on it isn't, though I do not know for sure. Also if it is the relay there are three relays against the firewall and I am not sure which it is as the cases on them all appear to the untrained eye to be identical. Included is a picture. Which relay is the blower relay.