Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Auto Transmission Refuses To Upshift Sometimes
Oct 10, 2011
I have a 2000 Passat Wagon with a V6 and automatic.
When in "D", the transmission refuses to upshift sometimes. Moving to the tiptronic gate and manually upshifting works, so I think it's a control issue and not something mechanical with the transmission.
It also downshifts inappropriately on occasion. For example, when lifting off the throttle and coasting down just to lose a little speed, it downshifts and I get engine braking. I'm not looking forward to this in the snow. Once again, I can manually upshift just fine when this happens.
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So my daughter's '04 Jetta SW 2.0 will not upshift and has the engine light on. After having it read by the local shop I have the following codes:
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Electrical Malfunction
P0811 Excessive Clutch Slippage
So what to do? I read a lot about issues about the alleged poorly designed/manufactured stock "Auto Trans Valve Body" and how that seems to be a culprit of shifting issues above 150K.
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My dad has an 09 Fwd tsi with a tiptronic that will on occasion refuse to upshift. The EPC light will come on and it will not shift into 2nd gear. Manual upshifting is possible. Usually the next time he starts the car it works fine. Recently had the throttle body replaced to no avail. Sometimes the engine light will come on as well and the engine speed will not climb above 2k making it impossible to upshift.
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Accent 1.6L GLS with auto transmission.
Recently, I've noticed a hard "tump" in the mornings when it auto shifts from first to second gear. It is loud and VERY noticeable. Aftera bout 7-10 minutes when the car warms completely up, it runs fine with not thump.
I've searched the forums for this and have found no answer.
It still runs fine but the morning "thump" scares the crap out of me and startles me every time.
I purchased the vehicle used a few months ago, it has 175,000 km on it. I don't know the history of the transmission but the car seems to be in really good shape otherwise...
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I have a 2001 Accent with a auto-transmission. The engine is a 1.6 and the car has about 100,000 miles on it. I had it since about 5 years with about 48,000 miles.
While driving cross country a couple years the car developed a whining noise at about 25 mph. As speed is increased, the whining became louder. I have driven it like this ever since, moderately, never pushing it. Starting a couple months ago, the noise has become louder at 40 to 45 mph and there is considerable vibration.
I know the tranny in this car is known for many different problems. I'm just wonder what the thoughts are of others more familiar with this transmission as to what could be the issues ( a certain bearing going bad between gears?, maybe not a tranny issues ...just random ideas on my part ).
BTW, I have never had an error code develop for this transmission.
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I have a 2000 Ford Ranger 4X4 XLT with a 5R55E automatic transmission.
Coming out of a stop the truck jolts at about 20 mph as it shifts from 2nd to 3rd gear. It feels like it revs too high in 2nd gear, up to about 2400 rpm, and then shifts hard into third. It feels like the truck gets a gentle hit from behind.
Earlier in the week, the O/D light flashed. I took it immediately to an independent tranny shop who pulled the code for me: P7033, incorrect ratio in 3rd gear.
They cleared the code for me. In limited city and highway driving (less than 15 miles each trip) the O/D light has not flashed again. But the problem remains. I plan to take it back to the shop later next week.
What might cause this so that I might have a more informed conversation with the tranny mechanic?
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I am having an issue with my 1998 5.4l Expedition, e4od. It will not up-shift from 2-3... It feels almost like it's in a 4x4LOW shift schedule.
I've done a lot of research, I was really hoping the fault was inside the valve body and a stuck spring or valve. I went ahead and scanned the computer and I have no codes. The O/D light does not blink. I can toggle it off and on via the button on the end of the shifter.
I watched the gear data correlate with the shifting to eliminate the cable. The reverse lights come on when in reverse, manual 1 works, reverse works, and I can get it to upshift to 2nd with manual two. In {D}, 1st gear runs until the engine is @ apprx 4,000rpm and if i let the throttle go a bit, it'll upshift to 2nd. Speed will keep increasing until the engine is screaming at 5500rpm.
It does not ever neutral out. It just wont upshift..
I pulled the TRS harness off to inspect, and I checked for codes whilst it was unplugged just to be sure I can read TCM codes. The TRS code showed up.
I tested the TPS sensor and it checks out good.
My speedo works fine and as well as my Tach.
The fluid was not low on initial check with the onset of symptoms. So, I went ahead after doing my tests, drained the pan and dropped it. I pulled the accumulator body and as well as the valve body. I could not get the solenoid off today. I will tomorrow and I will ohm it out. I inspected the valve body and accumulator body and to be honest, I do not know what a stuck valve or accumulator looks like or what it would feel like.
The pan magnet had grey material on it. I pressed it between my fingertips and it did not feel like metal. The one third to the right didnt like right at first, but I can feel a little movement when pressing it in. My camera basically washed out, but without disassembling the individual valves, they look intact via the spaces. The last one on the right is stationary..
I cannot tell if these look right (they are unaltered)
The one on the left felt like it was catching when being pressed in
What else could cause no upshift and no codes?
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This is the first car I've ever owned with an automatic transmission. When the car is stopped and in gear, I can feel a slight vibration and hear some accompanying noise. Shifting to neutral gets rid of the noise and vibration. Is this normal? Car has 9500 miles.
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Daughter bought 05' Santa Fe 4wd 3.5L, from original owner ,car has 47,000 miles on it, was maintained by dealer, and was obvious that car was well taken car of.
So first issue was throttle hesitation, which was mostly corrected by software update.
Now, transmission is acting goofy. If you step on gas heavily, it's as if the front wheels - or tranny -slip, then catch. Almost like a limited slip, then as it up shifts, you get a clunk. If it starts out in 2nd (I dont understand this ) then it's clunking going into 3rd.
If you are gently taking off, tranny acts normal. If you're cruising and punch it, it upshifts well, car goes nice.
Daughter called dealer who said update to throttle programming should have corrected any shift issues
So tech takes it out for ride, is able to get it to act up and states : issue in internal, and we need new tranny. 47,000 miles and need new tranny. Nice
I'm wondering if a fluid change and battery disconnect would work. Seems to me the the tech did a quick and dirty diagnosis.
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About 1500 miles on my GTI and I have been noticing on upshifts, just as I release the clutch, I get a short grunt from the transmission. It's very brief, but consistent in lower gears. it's not terribly loud (may not hear it with the radio on but definitely will with the radio off).
It doesn't seem to impact the drive at all so I'm not stressing about it but I will want it looked at if it poses a risk to the drivetrain... Never had anything like it with my last stick ('02 e46).
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I recently acquired a 99 1.8 t passat and i am having trouble with the transmission. when I start the car all of the gears are lit up on the console, like it is unsure what gear it is in. It does shift and go in reverse and drive. When the shifter is put in the tiptronic position, it does not respond and acts like it's still in drive, and shifts on its own. Gears seem to shift at the correct speed/rpm but once cruising speed is attained, it won't shift into OD. Also, it has an extreme lurch when I get below 10 MPH. Is my tranny shot, or is it just a sensor that has to be replaced? I am almost positive that it is my tcu.
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Transmission (V-6) is slow on the upshift; and jerky on the downshift. Going uphill, the transmission does not want to downshift into a lower gear unless the accelerator is heavily depressed. So, 6th gear at like 45 mph uphill, then finally downshift into 4th with jerk downshift.
As car comes to a stop, right about 2 or 3 mph, the rpm's drop from idle to about 400; sometimes once sometimes twice. It feels like it's going to stall. Have had all the software updates.
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Issue on 2000 Passat where the auto door locks lock when you start to drive, then out of the blue, one or more will pop back up. Sometimes one will just pop back up at the next stop sign when stopping, then go back down again when starting.
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i have a 94 vw passat vr6 that wont shift. when you start off in drive it takes a second for it to start to move. if you shift it manually from first on up it shifts okay but sometimes it slips in between 2nd and 3rd. the only time the car will shift is after driving it a few miles at about 65-70 it will shift itself into second gear and not come out you have to shut the car off and wait a few minutes to "reset" itself. after driving it on the highway it kicked itself into second gear, i pulled over and the fan was on and it looked as if there was some fluid on top of the transmission but cant recall if it had been there earlier. i checked the ATF and there was no shortage of fluid. could the fan be on due to the transmission over heating? what could be the cause of it not shifting?
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On occasion my 2001 Monte Carlo SS will sometimes upshift all the way to 4th gear when leaving a stop sign. Then it will lug & vibrate obviously from being in high gear at a low speed. I can pull over & shut car off for a minute then start it again & it will shift just fine like normal. Then randomly out of the blue it will do it again without any sort of pattern. I replaced the main computer but that didnt work.
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Late January started having transmission problems. Car would not upshift correctly. Sometimes it would not shift out of 4th unless I used either the paddle or the sport shift. Even when it would up shift to the proper gear the torque converter would not lock/unlock correctly. When at speed and I would lift off throttle trans would not free wheel/coast. It would act like you downshifted to engine brake. Sometimes when doing 60+mph rpm would be about 3000 and would get a 'roaring' noise from trans and would require more peddle than normal to accelerate. It was like the trans had selected two gears and they were fighting each other. Sometimes when this happened would smell acrid clutch burning odor when stopped.
I live near Cape Cod so you have been watching the weather you know we have been getting slammed with snow. Because of the snow I didn't get to the dealer until Feb. Tech took car for test drive with me riding shotgun, luckily transmission did everything listed in first paragraph which made the tech a believer. He did some diagnostics and called Hyundai Tech Service. They requested additional diagnostics which would more time and they wanted car earlier in the week since this was a Friday. The technician did reset the transmission adaptive and returned car to me.
OK now comes much more snow. I put more miles on my snow blower than my car. The adaptive reset made some improvements but proper up shifts were not there but trans growling and odor still there.
Finally got back to dealer today. Additional diagnostics done and the Regional Hyundai rep who was at the dealership agreed to replace transmission under Warranty.
I am original owner. Car is a 2012 2.0 SE with 61600 miles purchased Dec. 2011.
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I bought this truck with a stock automatic transmission and 260k miles back in October expecting the transmission to be the first thing to go. Recently I had a transmission code, OD OFF light flashing, for the bad speed sensor which i got replaced. Then the OD OFF light started flashing after some hard driving when I would put into neutral or park so I took it back to the mechanic, Hanahan Truck and Auto in Sc. They looked into it and there wasn't any different code in the system but they noticed when you lay into it driving it slips some between 2nd and 3rd gears so that could cause the computer to put in a code.
They said usually a rebuild runs from $2k-2.5k and they also recommended a Jasper reman for roughly $2.8k which comes with a 100k mile 3yr warranty. So I figure replacing the transmission is probably the way to go. Any recommendations for a replacement. I've heard ATS and Sun Coast are decent options that I could build one. I'm looking to stay close to $3k. My truck is a 2000 F250 lariat 4x4 with 268k miles. I'm installing an S&B intake, 4" MBRP exhaust, and DP-Tuner's F6 chip when I get the transmission work done.
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I have a 91 Celica that has a strange transmission problem. She hates the cold weather. No joke, she drives GREAT in the warm weather. But when its cold, she refuses to change into the highest gear until she feels like she's warmed up enough. But even then, she will randomly downshift again (all other things like speed, elevation, etc. constant.) When that happens, the RPMs (obviously) jump up. I always try to slow down when that happens, and eventually (5-7 minutes later) she shifts back into the appropriate gear.
I've owned it less than two years and have done A LOT of work on it. I am hoping to upgrade with a vehicle from a family member, and actually have the Celica for sale (and I hate selling cars......I don't think $1400 is too much for her!) Only 133,000 miles as she sat for a LONG time before I got her. I got all the kinks worked out except this transmission issue. Everyone I've talked to is stumped. And other than the "cold" issue, she shifts beautifully. I've been told to NOT flush or change the fluid at this point, so I haven't done that, but it's full.
I don't know if it's related, but the temperature gauge very rarely makes it off the 'C' mark. Sometimes when I'm idling it will climb to a whopping 15-20%, but generally it lives at or below the 'C.' I have never seen it at or above 50%.
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My check engine light has recently turned on in my 2004 hyundai elantra, and since it has come on my car will kick and sound like its going to stall, works but the automatic transmission refuses to shift. This inconsistent because it sometimes works fine with the light on and sometimes the light won't even turn on and everything is ok. What's wrong?
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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Everything was fine, running PHP 200X tune, switched to PHP 65 tow and took the 5er toy hauler on vacation last month. Pulled a lot of mountains,etc. While camping, took the truck unloaded to get fuel. Engaged tow/haul going down a mountain to utilize engine braking and the tunes "exhaust brake" and the trans slammed HARD into first gear. This happened twice. I refrained from using tow/haul. Heading home 450 miles with the 5er, I utilized tow/haul again (had it on the whole time, just like on the way down) and the truck and trans were flawless. Get home, switch back to 200X, and I'd say within a week or so, began having trans issues. Loaded stock tune, reset KAM with SCT, disconnected batteries with headlight switch on for a couple days, reloaded 200X and drove it for a couple days. No change.
It felt like the trans was slipping, not "going" like it should when on the throttle, and would sometimes not want to upshift. It would just act "weird". This would usually occur under 40 - 70% throttle (I rarely ever get on it more than that), but sometimes less. Never got any check engine light or tow/haul flashing.
So today I finally did what I should have weeks ago, took off work and ran the truck to a shop.
- First the tech hooked it up to the scanner. No codes.
- Test drove it. He said it drove fine for him. It was fine for me as well, driving it from my house to the shop (I didn't "get on" the throttle though).
- He monitored the voltage from the trans temp sensor. He said the voltage was fine, didn't spike or do anything crazy. He didn't seem 100% positive on this but, said it starts out at 5V cold and voltage should drop as the temp increases, which it did. However, the temp started out at 300 and then dropped to 200 as he was driving. #1 the temp isn't (shouldn't be) that high, and #2 it should increase while driving not drop. The temp shown on my Torque Pro app hit 149 on the way to the shop and 168 on the way home (90 degrees outside). So he seemed to think there was something screwy there.
- While driving it, his scanner showed a trans overheat (over temp/high temp, whatever) code, but no check engine light or tow/haul flash.
- Drove it home. Trans was fine until I got on it a bit and then it acted funny again. But just driving normal with light throttle it is fine.
* Thinking about trying a new temp sensor.
* Could it be in limp mode which is why it feels like it is slipping, i.e. doesn't have the normal power I'm used to?
* When the tow/haul light flashes, is it the tow/haul light on the instrument cluster? That's the only thing that lights up when I'm in T/H. Where you push the button never lights up. Assumed it was just white lettering and not a light.
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