Passat (B5) :: 2000 - Alarm Started Going Off Suddenly
Sep 22, 2010
I just pick up a 2000 VW Passat and the next day the alarm started going off. Non-stop honking, doors locking, etc. Pulled back the carpet near module box and there was a ton of water. Water in the box. Board in the box needs replaced and I would like to look for it online vs buying thru the dealership. Also, I'm trying to find out the part # or exact name of the part so I can look it up. I hate dealing with the dealership so I'm trying to find out what I can online before spending half my day on the phone being transferred and put on hold over and over.
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I have a 2000 Passat and one day the the alarm remote just stopped working. I bought new batteries for it but it didn't work. Shortly after that my A/C started taking about a 1/2 hour to start working. What is the reason for both of these to start acting up?
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Sister have problems with her 2000 Passat. She bought the car new and has dumped way too much money into this thing since then, just keeping it going. First off, some valet broke her glove box so i would like to know if there is anywhere to buy parts at a good price, a trusted place. Secondly, when she starts the car up an alarm goes off on the display and says "STOP: Brake Fault" but apparently a tech that she trusts says her brakes are fine minus the fact that the FP brake is missing a "pin", claimed to be fixed at the dealer but wasn't.
As well as she throws a cel pertaining to a?Secondary airflow valve? Lastly, she has been holding onto some little plastic piece that fell off somewhere on the inside. It looks like half of a smurf hat or a comma if that makes it easier to visualize. Part numbers on the back are 3B085854801C Donnelly 423 1919. I do all the work on my own car but have a bit of a time working on things on this VW. They really don't like people working on these outside the dealer, but she is looking to get this stuff repaired along with a rear window off track, and that's insane.
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Recently, I have had 3 instances where my car alarm suddenly goes off. All times, my car was parked in my garage, unlocked. The keys were sitting on the table and had not been touched.
The only thing is that I think the battery in my remote is started to get low I think but I don't really see how that would cause this issue.
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How good the alarm on a B6 is. I mean, it goes off when the doors are opened and the alarm is on...but how easy is it to steal a Passat.
I wanna put a navi in and do a few things...but I just don't feel ok doing them and knowing I don't have a GREAT alarm.
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My alarm went off for no explainable reason today. My car is parked in front of my house and all of a sudden I hear an alarm going off. Now, I've never heard my own alarm so I wasn't even aware it was mine until it kept going and I realized it might be mine. So I went to look out the window and I couldn't decipher where the sound was coming from because there's a lot of cars around here
So for the heck of it, I grabbed my fob and kept pressing buttons to see if it would go off. I was so flustered and nothing went off so I thought it wasn't mine. Then I held down the red button and it finally went off.
Does it mean someone tried to open my door? What warnings should I look for on the dash when I go in there for the first time after shutting off the alarm?
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Apparently while I car was at the stealership for it's 45k service, the car alarm was going off crazy and wouldn't stop, so their techs disconnected the horns.
First time they delivered my car back, the horns wouldn't work- sent it back.
Second time around, porter turns off car, closes the driver door, and car alarm starts blaring, other techs and customers starting and closing their ears..
Not sure what could be going on.
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Alarm went off when my wife started the car. Horn and lights started going on & off. My wife disconnected the fuse to the horn & then the battery was disconnected. That stopped the alarm; we hooked the battery back up & the horn fuse was reinstalled. We tried to start the car, but it only turns over. It won't run.
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My 2004 Hyundai Elantra GLS has an alarm that won't go off until the car is started and running or the negative battery cable is disconnected. The technician at the Hyundai dealership is baffled on this one. If I press the panic alarm button on the key chain, the alarm gets very loud. When the panic alarm is turned off, the alarm is quieter. The keyless entry won't work at all now.
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I just purchased a 99 GA SE, 130K, 3.4L and when we test drove it the horn did not work. Salesman said previous owner disconnected it because it "had a mind of its own". Dealer reconnected horn, I brought it home, parked it in the garage and was startled out of my sleep at 4:30 am by the distinct sound of a car horn...full blast and steady.
After a short and panicked look for the horn (couldn't locate it) I opened the driver's door and smacked, hard, the center of steering wheel. Horn stopped immediately. So, I quickly disconnected the battery to avoid further embarrassment and early morning wake-ups, and that's where I'm at.
I noticed when I tried the horn after picking up the vehicle it didn't take much pressure to activate the horn.
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Coming home from the coast last night, my car started to hiccup and lose power. I had to pull over to the side of the road as no matter how much throttle I applied the car kept losing speed. The car was acting like it wasn't getting any fuel. Once stopped on the side of the road I revved the engine for about a minute and it picked back up. I drove the remaining forty miles home without further incident. Went out today to drive to the car and my car won't start. It will turn over, but will not start... again feels like it's not getting any fuel.
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The battery light (but not the ! warning light) suddenly started flashing a week ago, and then a day later the car wouldn't start so I took it in for repair. Was told the battery needed to be replaced, but that it was drained because the alternator was defective. So both replaced. Within one day of driving it home, the battery and various other lights started flashing anew (which had happened last after it was jumped and while I was driving it into the mechanic the first time). Car then went dead again after turning off ignition. Wouldn't start.What's wrong with the car? BTW, mechanic has car (which we towed in) and now can't get problem to recur despite his having driven it around several times, for shorter and longer trips! My sixth sense tells me as soon as I pick the car up and drive home, I'll get the loss of battery/power experience and it going dead yet again! He says he checked for short wires and belt issues.
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My 2003 Avalanche (5.3L) suddenly started losing oil, 2 quarts since my last oil change (3,000 mi). There is no evidence of it leaking and no apparent smoking, so when I went to get my oil changed today I was telling my mechanic about it. They couldn't find any evidence of a leak either. Then when the pulled the fill plug on the transfer case fluid poured out, a lot of fluid. They are the only ones that service this vehicle so we were puzzled as to how it could be overfilled, especially by so much. Then I got to thinking, the engine has lost about two quarts of oil and the transfer case has mysteriously gained a bunch, possibly two quarts. So the question is, is it possible that the engine oil is somehow moving into the transfer case?
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It seems like the rear camera has suddenly started to point down more that it used to. We have three Prius's and none of the older one are like this.
The dealer tells me he hears this problem all day long and there is nothing he can do about it.
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My son bought a 2008 Fit new. At about 16K miles, the clutch suddenly started slipping. He barely made it to a dealer and it was replaced at no charge. Recently, the clutch suddenly started slipping again at ~32K miles. Before you say he's hard on a clutch, he drive a 95 Civic with no clutch troubles for over 140K before selling it to buy the Fit. He took the Fit to another dealer (he's in a different state now) and was told the clutch is OK, they drained some fluid out. Would excess fluid cause a problem -- after 16K miles?
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Last night I backed my truck up to allow another family member to leave, and the back-up sensor alarm started beeping, like it does when the tail-gate is down and backing up.
The truck had not been driven on Christmas day, but it had rained and snowed lightly (dusting), then the temp dropped to 20 degrees.
Can a light dusting/ice cause the sensor to react the same as a close object. I think it does, just trying to confirm.
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My alarm started going off by itself and my truck would not start so we unhooked the horn but the alarm was still trying to go off making a ticking noise when the horn should have been honking. so we also unhooked the alarm. And it started right up. I've been driving it with those things off with no problem. But today it wouldn't start again and its making a ticking noise like the horn is trying to honk.
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I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Prius with ~250,000 miles. Yesterday I was driving and the vehicle started to "stutter" and the warning lights came on. My ScanGauge indicated code P3125. I drove normally for 2-3 miles and parked for a bit. When I returned, I was able to start up and drive home with no problems (about 20 miles of highway and stop & go traffic), and drove most of this morning, but around noon it happened again and this time the vehicle would hardly move at all. It had no reverse and I had to push it out of the parking spot. I managed to limp home and park it.
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I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
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I have a 2001 mk4 golf 1.8T, tonight I was driving and all of the sudden the gear changes started clunking really rough ( it's an automatic) and then it would pulse for power only give it to me at random not when I gave it gas, coming to the next stop sign I pushed the accelerator to go and for the first 3 seconds nothing happened until it jumped in revs spinning tires and shooting me forward, so I shut off all the electronics in my car which seemed to work with the not getting power issue but when I finally got to where I was going it now won't turn over, you turn the key you hear the starter try but that's it it just won't turn over, there's no check engine light and I already have a call into my mechanic.
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