The air conditioning of my 2000 Passat wagon cuts out when the car is not in motion. It works great when the car is in motion but not at all when stuck in traffic or at a stop light.
View 11 RepliesMy a/c has been cutting out (warm air coming through) intermittently. If I turn it off for a few minutes, it generally comes through nice and cold again; sometimes the cold lasts for a while and sometimes not. It can happen after just 10 minutes of driving 45 mph, or after 1 hour of driving 70 mph.My mechanic drained the system and re-charged it, but that hasn't worked - although he is a terrific diagnostic mechanic, he is puzzled.
View 3 RepliesI've had this problem now for 3 months basically when the car is sitting on idle it can just cut out, it can be restarted straight away no problems then might cut out again or might run fine for 40 minutes before it does it again, there is no real pattern to the problem it can happen whenever. It also happens when driving the car the car will cut out then as you are moving it will bump start itself i.e., restart no problems and you can carry on driving as normal until the next time it does it again there is no pattern to the problem. Ive taken it into 2 garages and they don't know what it could be as all sensors are running fine as they should do, and in the process I've also changed,
TPS sensor
MAP sensor
Idle control valve
Crankshaft position sensor
both of my batteries ( car has two because of audio system)
done ful service ie spark plugs, oil filter, oil, fuel filter,
fuel pump relay
had ecu checked
changed main ecu power relay
had a totally new alarm fitted
Just dont know what could be causing this issue....
Been having a fair bit of trouble with my accent, at first my car sometimes would hesitate on acceleration in 1st gear. Now it has a rough idle and the engine just completely cuts out at random. It does however start straight back up. It makes an odd noise whilst idling almost like a misfire from the exhaust. On start up it blows a lot of white smoke. And when you do get driving it is really jerky. It's been serviced every 5000ks. I've changed spark plugs, map sensor and throttle body sensor, put a fuel injector cleaner through and still no improvements. It's been booked into the mechanics for next Tuesday.
View 1 RepliesI had just picked my car up from the shop after getting a new 3" downpipe installed (welded to stock cat) and attached to stock catback exhaust. I mention this because I never had this problem before and have already had installed a TIP, boost hose kit, DV, larger intercooler, and breather hose kit, all for a Unitronic Stage 2 tune.
So I go to turn on the A/C and the idle drops to about 400 rpm, almost stalls, interior shudders, vacuum jumps from about 20 to 10 as the engine revs itself a bit, and then it settles back out and the car runs fine (awesome with the new tune) and A/c works great. I have used the A/C a bit since getting all other upgrades done and never had a problem, or I didn't notice, but I'm wondering why a new downpipe would make a difference. I tried turning it on and off a few more times and the same things happened at idle, but after that initial dip and near-stall the engine was just fine around town and on the highway.
Friend of mine said that the air conditioning on her 2001 Ford Explorer only works when her car is in idle. She said that when she steps on the gas the fan continues to work but doesn't blow cold air. If she stops at a stop sign it works... and so on.
She has taken it to a shop that specializes in air conditioning and he checked and cleaned off a few connections (whatever that means) and thought that would do it but it didn't. She is going to go back this weekend.
I told her that I would think that a specialist would see the idle/drive issue as a good clue as to what the problem is.
Okay I am having a problem with my A/C in my Blazer I've had my compressor replaced finally got all of my leaks fixed and replaced all the visible vacuum hoses and still without by passing my heater core I have no Air Conditioning. It just keeps blowing out hot air. Why my Air Conditioner is working. I really like my blazer but after having invested a little over 600.00 into just getting the A/C up and going with no luck is just getting frustrating. I am considering selling it and getting a truck. I would like to keep it if I can get the A/C up and going but I don't want to have to invest a whole lot more money into it.
View 1 Replies2002 Honda Civic LX
Maybe a year ago I started having problems with air conditioning. The hot air part works fine, no problem whatsoever. But the cold air thing doesn't work as it used to. It's not the fan - the fan blows enough air for a little storm, it's just not cold enough.
First time I noticed, it just stopped making cold air for maybe 15 minutes. Air was coming in at ambient temperature, not even a degree cooler than that. Then it started working again. Ever since then I've had intermittent failures like this, and then it would start working again. It's not a change in flow, it's a change in temperature.
Second symptom - even when it does work, it seems inconstant. Before, I could just set it and forget. Now sometimes it seems more fidgety, and I have to keep turning the button when it starts acting up.
Third symptom - it doesn't seem to make any cold air at all when the engine is idle. The engine must run at normal cruise speed to get any cold air out of it. Before, it was slow to make cold air when idle, I had to wait a while, but eventually it would start to make cold air. Nowadays, if I'm coasting downhill, there's no cold air at all.
I'm worried that one day it will stop working altogether. Plus, it's not fun when it's hot outside and this thing decides to take a vacation. I didn't care about it in winter, because the hot air works fine, but now that summer is knocking at the door, this is suddenly a problem.
What might have gone wrong? Is it something that's easy to fix at home, or should I take it to the mechanic?
My A/C takes 10 minutes to kick in after turning on and then only works if the car is running at a stoplight or otherwise stationary. I've tried adding coolant and changing the cabin air filters.
View 1 RepliesAir Conditioning issues, vents 'hiss' when the A/C is on ... So we just bought an 04 B5.5V TDI and when we were test driving the car, I didn't actually notice this issue since we didn't do extensive driving and I wasn't listening for this problem specifically.
So basically what I found after the purchase is that the a/c is not very strong at all... even full bore and the vents have a hiss, hissing, whine, moan coming from them.
The minimal troubleshooting I have done was just to try to determine, while at idle from inside the car... when the noise was happening. What I have come up with is this.
If the AC switch is off, I can turn the fan on to any speed and the noise will not present itself.
If the AC switch is on, going from fan stopped to speed 1, about 70% of the time the hissing will not present.
If the AC switch is on, going to any of the faster fan speeds (2+) and center vents begin to hiss at me.
Once the hissing is happening, turning the fan speed back 1 will not stop the hissing.
The hissing slows and stops when the fan is turned off or the AC switch is turned off.
The hissing does not sound like a fan rubbing. Its not quite a mechanical sound like a bad bearing or debris hitting the fan.
The hissing sounds a little bit like someone blowing through a straw. However, the fan seems to move up and down the speed range just as expected and the air output seems to match the speed... so its not like the air movement is low.
Is there something I need to do to get the ac to come out of the vents in the back of the arm rest for passengers in the rear like my 1 year old? I looked in the manual briefly and didn't see anything. Am I screwed without climatronic?
View 24 RepliesJust picked up the 2.0T, komfort package. Loving it everyday. But noticed the air conditioning not getting really cold until after about 10-15 minutes of driving? It just blows warm air out and then suddenly the artic blast kicks in.
View 24 RepliesI have a 95 Silverado 1500 with the 5.7 V8 that cuts out when the pedal is held just above idle. If I am just driving normally as in pulling up to a stop sign and leaving with moderate acceleration it is fine and I don't notice any problems at all. The time I really notice it is when I am backing a trailer up and have to hold the pedal just above idle. It acts like the fuel is just being shut off to all cylinders. When I let off the gas it will sound like it is going to die and then it will come back to idle and idle perfectly. I was told it was probibly the PCV valve and I figured that for a few bucks I didn't have much to loose but that didn't work. I am thinking it has to be a sensor but I may be wrong.
View 2 RepliesMy wife drives a 2000 Saturn sw2 with 175K. I am out of town currently. Last night she called me and said that the car was cutting out on the interstate. The problem only occurred at almost 3000 rpm while the car was at speeds above 70 mph. Below that it was fine. Then today she called now she said that she could barely get it to 55mph. I am returning home tomorrow and am going to try to fix this in 5 hours before she needs it again. I am going to test drive it first to see if the above statements are correct. If so I am thinking it could be a failing fuel pump. I am not sure it autozone rents a tool that can measure the pressure on the fuel rail. I am thinking that this is a fuel rather than an ignition problem. Any quick diagnosis processes that could narrow down this problem quickly?
View 13 RepliesMy 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
View 6 RepliesDriving a 2008 Ranger XLT 3.0. Starts runs and drives fine, how ever it seems to have a tinny ruff idle.
What I noticed is when in park or neutral when I idle it up @ 3000 RPMs it seems like it runs on 3 cylinders and sort of cuts in and out very quickly. Is this a protection thing on the ranger.
Running on the road it kicks down and runs thru all the gears normally from idle all the way up to 5000 RPMs. Just would like to make sure this is normal.
I have a 2000 VW Passat with the 1.8L turbo. When I bought it, the timing belt was off 1 notch. After I fixed the timing issue the car still didn't idle well. I was told that the throttle body was causing the problem so I replaced it. The car ran good for about 5 minutes after I replaced the throttle body. After I hooked up a OBD-II scan tool up to it instantly started running rough. The car runs at 1100 rpm at a cold start-up but when the car warms up it idles down to 850 +-75 rpms. I cleaned the MAF sensor, and it still runs rough. Car has 180,000 miles and MPGs are also down.
View 2 Repliesi have done mechanic work most of my life and can't figure out whats happening with this car. it'll idle fine but when u give it fuel it's like it cuts out. have changed fuel pump,timing,and checked most sensors?! 2000 chevy prizm twin cam toyota motor same as corolla.
View 2 RepliesIt is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
View 4 RepliesOn my 2004 Accent GL 1.3, the digital clock in the center facia panel seems to always reset itself. At first, I thought it was random, but now I notice that when it does cut out, I have just started to press the brake pedal. It doesn't cut out every time I brake, but it only cuts out when I brake. It comes back at its leisure, sometimes immediately after releasing the brake pedal, and other times much later, seemingly randomly.
The wire harness going into the digital clock has 4 contacts (2 of which have two wires each). I can find no mention of this wire harness in the Body Electrical manual on hmaservice.com, so I'm not sure where the wires come from. The wire harness itself looks fine.
I would imagine that the problem is caused by a short between the +12V (actually, I'm not sure how many volts) wire going to the digital clock and the braking circuit somewhere, but I don't know.
Since it's "auto repair season" in my driveway, I was working on my daughter's car (2001 Accent, 1.6 GSi) and noticed that the air conditioning compressor makes a noise (like a cross between a burble and a shriek) when it cuts out. I'm assuming it's the head unloader and was wondering if it's supposed to make a noise that's quite that loud or if maybe it's getting low on refrigerant - the compressor runs quietly when it's turning and the clutch doesn't make any strange noises.
View 3 Replies