Passat (B5) :: 2000 1.8T Starts To Buck And Then PSI Goes Down To 10 Really Quickly
Apr 17, 2011
ok i have a 1.8T atw passat 2000. when boost 18 psi my car starts to buck and then my psi goes down to 10 really quickly like something is being cut off. i also have a p0301 misfire in cylinder 1. I switched my ignition coils around and replaced one and i also changed my spark plugs(not the cheap autoparts store kind). i checked my vacuum hoses and no tears. i put fuel injector cleaner in my tank when i filled up ( two bottles). it might be my fuel injectors but that would be too easy to fix. So I am thinking its something mechanical. I want to know what could be wrong mechanically. My friend thinks could it be a blown head gasket. is this true?
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I have a 04 grand caravan 3.8 liter. after filling up with gas & only after filling up i have a prob with the way the van runs. it will start and idle fine but once i shift in to gear and try to drive it starts to buck. if i take my foot off the gas it wants to stall. if i shift in to N or park the RPMs are around 400/500. if i rev the motor in N or park it will smooth out and idle fine and drive fine until the next fill up, then it starts all over again.
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Just had the tires rotated , then shop tech backs the X out of the shop, parks it and then hands me the keys. I hop in and turn the key , the truck turns over , but starts to shudder and buck, and fuel pressure gauge reads 0.
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Since the summer started, our hybrid battery has been acting different - when the AC is on (even on low), the battery starts to go down quickly! It happens when we are not driving, but standing in traffic or parked. We just changed our 12V battery and I though it would work, but it didn't work much. In order for it to charge up, we have to keep driving. Is that normal? If not, what can be the problem? What can happen when the hybrid battery will loose charge?
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My wife's 2007 Buick Lucerne's directional signal is acting odd... When you turn it to the left-hand blinker, the pace is not the normal factory pace. After two or three cycle it then starts blinking on and off VERY quickly, like those blinkers you see on junkers periodically. The right blinker is normal pace as are the hazards lights. I am looking for potential causes before I bring it in for repair. I can't say anything trigger it, other than I noticed it after a car wash. Electrical problems are not my thing.
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I have a 2000 VW Passat GLX with the Monsoon system. 3 weeks ago I had a Kenwood x 696 installed by Car Toys and everything is great.
That is until I turn my car off for over 24 hours.. at that point it no longer starts. When I had my stock radio in there were times that I would leave my car off 2 to 4 days at a time and never had any issues.
I had the battery tested and there are no issues. Then I got all of the electronics checked out and it was determined that the Monsoon amp was staying on when the car is turned off.
On Saturday I took the car back to Car Toys and they told me that it was not the stereo. They found something that told them to reset the amp by pulling the fuse and that most likely that would fix the issue. This was Saturday and my car didn't start today.
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I have a 2002 hyundai accent gl, 1.6l dohc engine. The issue is in the cold weather, the car will turn over, and then buck and stall right out. After a while, she will finally catch and idle really rough, until the car warms up, and the temp gauge goes to halfway, and then it all goes away, and the car runs perfectly fine. Its only in the winter it does it, and when the car is really cold.
I just put a new battery in today, the alternator is newer, fuel pump is newer, new plugs and wires. I am leaning towards the coolant temp sensor gone faulty. I was wondering, where it is located to on the engine so I can change it out.
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If I just touch the starter and quickly release the switch, the engine continues to turn over until it starts. Does 2010 F-150 with a 5.4 do this?
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My fiance is having issues with her car. It seems under acceleration to buck and lose power. I know more about 1.8t's but hers is the v6.
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I've got an 03 Passat with 110,000mi on the 2.8L 30v and 01V. I've had this intermittent problem for a while. Occasionally while cruising on the freeway, the car would start to buck, feeling like the trans was slipping in and out of gear, but rpms would stay constant as far as I remember. Also, the ASR light would come on and flash. The car would continue bucking until I pulled over and shut the car off. When I restart, all is fine again.
The dealer pulled codes and only found a EVAP canister purge valve code. They fixed that and said that should take care of the aformentioned problem. I didn't think the code was related to my problem and sure enough, it wasn't. My car still does it, but now there seems to be more related to this problem.
I was driving the other day on the freeway again, this time with my cruise control on. Everything seemed fine until the accelerator pedal dropped to the floor and the car began to accelerate on its own. I quickly switched off the cruise and braked to slow the car down to my original speed, and then the car continued bucking as it always had, now with the ASR light fully on. Pulled over again to restart, problem gone again. What gives? Went to have codes read again and nothing is found.
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My 2004 1.6 L accent does the following, no matter how much gasoline is or is not in the tank: Whenever I remove and replace the gas cap [which is brand new], as i drive away, the engine light flashes quickly about 20-25 times; rests for about 15 seconds and flashes again about 20-25 times. Thereafter it goes out for the rest of the drive. while it is flashing, the car idles roughly. This happens even if i only remove the cap to add some water absorbent or some injector cleaner. it also happens when i fill up the tank. by the way, i NEVER TOP UP. I always quit filling with gasoline when the pump goes "thunk." this has me completely stumped.
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My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
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So after the passat has tried to eat its own gearbox i've been having more troubles with the EGR but only on a long run so i've left it alone.
At 6:30 this morning i just got off the motorway and the motor stopped and started again quickly. After the lights it went dead and i rolled to a stop in the middle of the road. The car would not start so i pushed it to the side and started to try and get it going. The dash was reporting parking brake error and ESC error but it would not turn over at all. I tried loads of time and left it for 5 mins but nothing. Its been recovered to the garage again now.
I ran it through VCDS and got a bunch of errors, the common one coming up was 01314 - Engine control Module (004 - no signal/communication) and two other under parking brake ECM and 03182 - Clutch Position Sensor (G476) (010 open or short to Plus)
I've done some googling and been back to check the fuses (which there is no map for!) and found nothing.
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I recently bought a '99 Passat, 3.0l, that is lowered with 19" wheels and low profile tires. The front tires are a little lower profile than the rear ones, if that matters??? I noticed that when I cruise around a corner, slightly quicker then normal, the ASR light comes on and seems to cut the motor. The dealer says that its because of the oversized tires and wheels. Does that make sense? Any way to adjust that or fix this issue? This car will go to my daughter, so I don't want to cause her to get into an accident.
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Having an intermittent problem when starting the car.
The car quickly shutting off right after starting while still in Park.
It does not do it all the time, but about every 3rd of 4th start attempt it will do this. If I step on the accelerator, I can avoid the car from shutting off.
The car has 62k miles and spark plugs were replaced at 50k.
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Ok, I just started to notice that when Im driving at night, the display for my ac/heater panel almost quickly turns off and then back on. It is fast enough that I thought it was me. Last night I sat and watched it for a few min and it stopped "glowing" for a split second then went back to normal.
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My car has about 37k on it; and while the front pads look to be about 50% worn; the rears look like they are closer to 90%. Is this normal? The car is also sluggish while braking especially when the engine is being auto-revved to keep the system voltage up (a known problem). It also seems that the car will step into ABS lock-up mode too soon in a panic stop situation; which might also indicate that the brake system is biasing too much power to the rears; too little to the fronts.
I've never had a car wear the rear brakes more rapidly than the fronts; usually the rears are much more lightly utilized to reduce the tendency to skid. Is there any way to adjust brake bias? I'm getting ready to change rear pads and flush brake fluid.
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I have a 99 volkswagon passat. I've replaced the alternator once a month for the last three months. Other than the belt, what could cause me to go through alternators so quickly. Also, this may or may not be related but as the alternator deteriorates my drivers side window which is automatic becomes more difficult to roll down. Then works perfectly after the alternator is replaced.
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Something strange happened this morning and I can't find anything .
Got out of the car (2007) and locked it with the remote. The alarm light flashed quickly multiple times, almost like something was wrong, door not closed tight, etc. The doors locked, but it would not give me the audible beep that it normally does. Went around and opened and closed all doors and trunk to make sure they were closed tight, and they were.
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I have 2008 VR6 4 motion wagon with about 98K miles. It has been relatively trouble free and I love the car. To try and make it last I am trying to stay on top of maintenance. I had a VW warranty until 72K and got several things fixed along the way. But, I had asked about the one weird thing it does well before it went out of warranty to no avail ("no trouble found").
The weird thing is that sometimes it sort of stutters when I slow down from a high rate of speed quickly, like exiting a freeway. I described it to my new mechanic (no longer beholden to the dealership mechanics) when I was speculating a new transmission might be in order at some point and he said it was probably an issue with the program that tells the transmission when to downshift and to ask about a software update. I did; none available.
Is it firmware related, how to get it fixed?
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Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
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