Passat (B5) :: 1st To 2nd And Reverse Won't Engage With The Engine Running At Idle
Jul 22, 2011
So I did a fairly hard 1st to 2nd gear pull on my way to lunch today. Got to a stop light and I had to slam the shifter to get my car in first. Same with 2nd and reverse. Third, fourth, and fifth seem fine. With the engine off all gears select fine. With the engine running at idle, when I engage first the engine jumps. I can definitely feel it engage. I have the ecs ra4 stage 1 kit with about 40,000 miles on it. The clutch doesn't slip when driving. This seems to be the only symptom. I'm going to bleed the slave cylinder when I get fluid. Fork? Synchros? Worn pressure plate spring thingys?
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I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
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I got in my car this morning to drop my sister off to school and when I put the RX in reverse nothing happened for a second or two and then all of a sudden it jerked back. I continued to reverse off the driveway thinking what the heck just happened. When I put the car in drive the reverse camera stayed on as I drove off.
When I noticed this, I pulled over to the side and put the RX back in park and turned it off. I then turned it back on and the area on the dash that shows what gear your in, never turned on. My sister was getting late so I dropped her off and came home.
I turned the car off and waited 30 seconds before turning it back on. This time the reverse camera didn't engage in reverse and the small screen that displays what gear your in, displayed no image. Then a few seconds after that, the check engine light came on and so did the symbol of a car and squiggly lines under it. My RX350 is a 2010, and has just under 85k.
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I got a 99' Jetta gls 5 spd. I just replaced the transmission and now the car won't engage reverse from inside the cockpit. Reverse can be engage from inside the engine bay, but when the shift knob is depressed nothing happens. Linkag cables are in the correct spots.
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2008 Passat Komfort... Pump sound for about 5 sec. When going into reverse or drive.
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I own Camry 2008, 4 cyl, 2AZFE engine, 2400cc.
I recently, started facing strange issues,
No matter whether engine is stone cold or oven hot, it does not idle where it used to be (2 weeks ago). The car idles at ~800 RPM and the rpm suddenly drops to ~700 and engine flushes in more fuel to rev it up to 1100 rpm. Will take another 10 - 12 sec to reach ~700 rpm and the same story continues.
This however, sometimes go away, in Neutral. Once I put it in Reverse the problem becomes worse with RPM dropping every other second, as if the current in the coils is failing.
All this fuss continues, even when car is at 30 mph. However beyond 30 mph I feel nothing.
Services done in last 2 weeks:
1. Throttle body clean-- complete removal of all the gunk.
2. PCV valve changed from toyota dealer.
3. Mass airflow sensor cleaned.
4. Spark Plugs changed with new Iridium plugs from toyota dealer.
5. New Ignition Coils.
Nothing solved the idle problem - missing in the car. The mechanic convinced me that Head gasket is blown. He was indeed right as the Head Gasket had crack b/w cyl 2 and cyl 3. It was changed and car was much better. But now I am again facing issues.
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I have a 1995 Chevy 2500 with a 454 engine with 72K miles. The engine won't stay running (won't idle). There is fuel spraying into the throttle body. Not sure about the pattern being correct. If I spray starting fluid into the throttle body the engine starts running fine for a short time(until the fluid is consumed). So, I'm assuming it is a fuel delivery problem. The fuel filter is O.K. Don't know about the fuel pressure.
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I have a 2004 Trailblazer LS with the 4.2L I6 and this problem just recently started and I found this video on youtube of someone having the exact same problem. [URL] ....
This noise is only there in reverse and drive. If you put it in park or neutral it goes away. Also goes away if you give it some throttle while in gear.
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OK--2001.5 1.8t Tip, 85k, nothing but Mobil1 since day one religiously. At around 81k miles the t/belt tensioner seized & let the belt jump and bend a few valves. Had VW do the repair under the p.t. warranty. Engine now runs very well again except there is a knock noise that sounds an awful lot like a crank or rod bearing. The noise is worse with the engine fully warmed up and in drive or reverse. Took it back to VW, they said it's a bearing in the a/c compressor. Sounded like B.S. to me, since the noise is no different with or without the a/c on. I picked up the car & removed the a/c belt at home & found the noise was exactly the same. I've about had it with VW on this issue. Been back 3 times with the noise complaint, & the noise is getting worse!!
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I have an 07 with the 3.3L and on start up the engine runs really rough and while driving when warm it keeps losing power with a regular rhythm. It almost feels like and injector or ign coil is dropping out. I have no CEL and have recently changed the spark plugs and rear upper O2 sensor.
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I just bought a 2013 Elantra GLS last weekend. When the engine is running at idle and I'm standing outside of the car, the engine seems to be noisy. Maybe to the point where there is a small exhaust leak somewhere. I don't notice the noise when I'm driving the car - interior noise seems normal. Is it normal for the 1.8L engine to be a bit noisy at idle? The car just turned 100 miles.
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Filled tank with 8 gallons of 91 octane to top off. One hour later noticed car running rough at idle then check engine light comes on. Could it be the coil pack? Car has been running very well until now, and this Gremlin appears. I don't think it's the gas.
2004 -V8 Treg
52,000 on the odometer
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Went to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
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my 91 525i wont engage 1st gear..fluids fine..nothing smoking...fluid levels great. color correct in fluid appearance..reverse works..no funny noises from rear end..car just will not shift above 1st. i have replaced transmission filter and fluid.
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MK7 GTI - I was driving along yesterday when I got a warning message that said "cannot engage reverse," accompanied by a CEL and the transmission downshifting into 1st gear (luckily I was only going about 20 mph.) I tried pulling over and restarting the car, and tried shifting into the different transmission and engine modes, but the transmission continued to only be able to engage 1st gear or neutral. Luckily I was five minutes from my APR dealer, and cruised over there at 15 mph so as to not over-rev the engine in 1st gear, a lot of pissed off traffic was flying by me honking.
They ran the codes, flashed it back to stock, and the codes and CEL persisted in stock mode. I drove back to my house at 15mph, took my intake off, and called roadside assistance to tow my car to the dealership. They are currently waiting on a rep to come out and authorize a new DSG most likely.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited w/3.3 engine with 41414 miles. I was driving along and the car lost power but the engine kept running at idle. Check engine light came on so I took it to a shop.They said the throttle control showed up bad. The whole throttle control system has to be replaced. This would cost @$450.00 Does this seem right that a car with only 41 thousand miles would need a major part like this replaced? The bumper to bumper warranty ran out in Jan 2013.
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I am having a problem with my 1997 f150 4.2 v6. The engine is running rough at idle and while driving. It's running so rough that it vibrates the entire cab of the truck. I found water in the oil when I was trying to fix the problem. I have since had the heads redone and replaced all of the gaskets thinking this was the reason for the rough idling and rough driving. It wasn't; doing this fixed the water in the oil but still I have the rough running engine at idle and driving.
I have replaced the EGR valve, plugs and wires, pcv valve, replaced the coil pack, fuel filter and air filter (everything has been replaced with ford recommended parts because I have read that the engine I have doesn't like after market parts). While driving the engine vibrates and sound as if it's going in a cycle in a rhythmic sort of way (like a washing machine goes in a cycle), best way I can explain it. I have come to the end of what I think it is?
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Just got a new GTI two weeks ago, and wow. I love it. It's like a dream come true to me to own a GTI. It's everything I've imagined and more. Anyways, while driving my girlfriend to the store last night I received the "Transmission error: Cannot engage reverse" error while driving down the highway (and obviously not trying to go into reverse). I have seen a few others with 2015 GTIs that have the DSG transmission with the same issue. Unfortunately my night ended in me limping the car home, and having it towed to the dealership today. Sadly the car only has 2800 miles on it, and it's my baby. Even the girlfriend says I love it more than her.
Now my question is, how was it fixed? Total replacement of transmission? Electronics issue? As you can imagine, I am super bummed about this. I can honestly say, 75% of the time I drive the car in manual mode, and very rarely take it over 4k RPM and have never redlined the thing. My mother and my girlfriend insist that I got this transmission error by driving an automatic in manual mode so much, however Volkswagen and the dealership insist that driving the car this way will do no harm whatsoever to the transmission.
So again, my question is, how is this issue resolved? Is driving my car this way really not good for it? Until then, I will be driving around this rental Passat, that feels like a boat compared to my GTI. But the sunroof and leather seats are pretty nice.
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After receiving the car from the body shop from a rear end collision. Noticed that when we put the car in reverse sometimes you hear a clicking or vibration noise while going in reverse.
Open the hood and had my wife put it on reverse and could not determine where the noise was coming from. You can hear it better in the cabin with the doors close. I thought it was coming from the serpentine belt at one time but could not determine if noise was from there. Did notice that when is engage in reverse the engine really moves.
2006 2.0t Camshaft, follower and HPFP replaced at 86K miles.Just replaced Vacuum Pump.
A/C System replaced at 84k miles.
Catalyst converter and downpipe replaced.
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98 Honda Accord with 2.3L has 354,000 miles on it and up until recently ran like it was still new. Have developed erratic idle speeds. When it is cold it idles around 1100-1200 rpm. When the radiator fans are on or the A/C compressor is on it runs around 800-900 rpm. These are normal speeds and great. However, when the engine is warm/hot, in PARK, radiator fans are off, and A/C compressor kicks off, the idle speed drops to what appears to be about a rough idling 500 rpm's and the engine can barely stay running. I've attempted to look for the obvious. I own the Honda Shop Service manual if there is a particular component or most likely suspect area I should start at.
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Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
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