Passat (B5) :: 1999 Needs Some Throttle To Start / Low Idle Speed And Misfires
Jul 2, 2007
When I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
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Carburetor: Autolite 4100
Fast Idle Speed: 1250 RPM
Curb Idle Speed: 600 RPM (At normal operating temperature)
When I cold start my truck, the fast idle speed holds the throttle at 1500 RPM. I will let it idle about 30 seconds or so, and then I will tap the gas to bring the idle down.
When I do this, the idle will immediately drop all the way down, and too low for a cold engine. The engine won't stall, but it will hover just below 500 RPM, which is a bit too low to idle smoothly.
But when the engine is at operating temperature, the idle speed is 600 RPM and the engine will happily idle smoothly.
Shouldn't there be an "in between" speed? When I tap the gas pedal at 1500 RPM to bring the idle down some, shouldn't the speed drop down a little lower, like 1000 RPM since the engine is still a bit cold?
If so, what do I need to adjust? The Autolite 4100 works PERFECTLY otherwise.
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My 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
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1999 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 5 Speed, 162K miles on car, 50K miles on replaced head after a timing belt snap.
Okay, first issue, car accelerates smoothly, and holds interstate speed just fine. BUT, when you lift off the throttle at speed, you get a shimmy-shake out of the front suspension like the tires are suddenly out of balance. Back on the skinny pedal, smooths back out. Never touching the brakes during this whole cycle.
Second issue is what I found tucked into the rear storage compartment with the first aid symbol. No first aid kit (should there be one?) but two extra quarts of oil. 10W-30, uh, dino oil. Not synthetic. I got no maintenance records other than a copy of the repair invoice for the head work, so I'm not sure what oil was used in regular oil changes, but at least the "top-off" quarts are not the right stuff. Should I be overly concerned? Should I immediately do an oil change to Mobil 1 like I was planning? What about some kind of engine flush?
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My 2000 1.8t passat is quiet sick and i am unsure of where to start. here are the symptoms:
- rough idle for a minute or two when started cold
- occasional erratic idle
- low power
- the CEL would blink for 10-20 seconds on startup
- checked and cleared the codes at autozone, and now the car seems to be in limp mode. engine has NO power, cannot get speed above 20, misfires
when you try to go faster
Where are the codes that were stored:
-P1136 Air/fuel metering
- P1128 Air/fuel metering
- P0507 Idle control system, RPM high
- P0300 Random Misfire
- P0301 Cyl. 1 misfire
- P0302 Cyl. 2 misfire
- P03011 Cyl. 4 Misfire
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So I took a trip from Dallas to Florida, and on the way back my check engine light came on. The car shakes at idle, almost like it wants to take off. I drove it back to Dallas like that since the car runs normal on the high way. I got it scanned at autozone and the code said it had multiple random misfires. I'll be taking to the dealer in the morning, but what it could be? The car jumped over 50K during the trip hopefully the dealer will be nice and cover it.
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I have an 03 vr6. I'm getting codes p0300, 0303, and 0304. I changed the plugs and the coils and still has changed nothing. In the morning when I first go to start the car it has a rough start and idles rough. But after letting it warm up it is fine. It drives perfectly fine, no misfires. None of this started happening until the car ran hot a few weeks ago. Did a compression test and everything came up fine. So would could my issue be? I'm at a loss here. I was thinking fuel issue but if it was a fuel issue, wouldn't it run rough all the time?
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I am trying to track down a problem for a friend with a 2001 Passat, 1.8L. The car has 150k and had a timing belt about 50k ago. About 3 weeks ago, it started misfiring badly on idle. In gear driving around, it purrs like a kitten. I scanned for codes and got:
Address 01: Engine
Controller: 4B0 906 018 CL
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 16551
9 Faults Found:
[Code] ....
At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak, but it looks like when he took it in 2 weeks ago they replaced all the vacuum hoses. It is unclear when he last had sparks and coils. I understand the likely culprits are:
sparks
coils
ICM
I am hesitant to blame sparks/coils if he is getting misfires on all 4 cyl. It seems like they might have screwed up the timing belt install given the camshaft sensor error, but he's been running for 50k miles since the change, and this idle issue just appeared recently.
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My 2.0T 06 Passat misfires sometimes during cold start after 6-8 hrs of parking. It happens very rarely. I have had the car for 4 years (bought it brand new) and the misfire has happened about 5-6 times. Is this normal? Just wondering if they get logged in the computer system so VW Service can see it? My car has got 47K miles on it.
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My accent 2006 has the check engine code p0171. AT mornings I have to start the car like 5 times until it revs up and do not stall. Also when the car is running, If I press the gas too much it starts misfiring and have really slow acceleration. I have already change the 02 Sensor, spark plugs, TPS and maf sensor, and PSV valve, cleaner the throttle. I really don't know what else to look for.
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Finally had a chance to pull the coils for inspection, and give the truck some very needed plugs. anyways, since i got it, the truck on initial start will rev itself up to about 3k rpms. it will almost always die after that rev. with the MAF sensor disconnected, it will rev to about 2k rpms, and the idle, if you can call it that, around 1k rpms. it will buck, jump, spit, burp, chug, pop, blow, and phew noises the whole time. I can rev the truck at this point but the throttle repsonse is poor. it does rev with a slight misfire, but no popping like what it does at idle. the exhaust has been dropped before the cat, so i know its not a plugged cat. i feel it could possibly be a sticking idle control valve allowing air past behind the MAF sensor causing this crazy scenerio
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I have searched a decent amount on this and it seems like there is a whole list of items that could cause these problems. The car is a 2008 Passat 2.0T with the tiptronic. It is the early 2008 so it still has the FSI motor. It only has 53k on it and literally just came out of warranty a month or two before this all started happening.
It all started with the CEL coming on and the went into limp mode. We shut it off and turned it back on, the car went into limp mode again but upon the 3rd restart the car started and ran just fine. Then for a few weeks we just had a CEL (I don't know what code it was because I never scanned it at the time). Now as of lately the car is have a terrible rough idle, and at stops it will start kinda shaking and lurching forward. Sometimes it will also have a noticeable misfire upon start up. Also after going at highway speeds for some time the car will start to produce a squealing noise when not producing boost.
A few days ago I scanned it and these codes came back:
P0110
P0101
P0102
P0104
P0108
P0171
The first 5 IIRC are related to misfires and the P0171 is a lean code.
At first I thought this was the PCV valve because I had read about the lurching and the squeal that someone else had from that but after reading up more on things I am worried the P0171 is from the cam follower.
At this point I am just very tired of hearing my wife constantly complaining about the car. I want to try and figure this out without throwing part after part at it. I can't afford to buy items just to find out they aren't fixing it.
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The other day I disconnected battery, then removed and cleaned the throttle body. Now cold-start idle is high, and erratic,
goes to 1,600, drops to 1,000
- back to 1600, drops, up to 1,400
-- wavers there, and then finally,
starts to taper down to steady idle of about 650-700 rpm.
Since battery disconnected, does not seem there would be a chance for TB to "un-synch" with cars computer.
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My fathers truck starts, runs, idles fine but once on the highway at constant speed, the engine misfires or hesitates causing a small buck or jerk but continues on down the road. The SES light is on. He took it to O'Reilly and they put some kind of computer on it and (I think) it said misfire in a cylinder. He replaced one of four O2 sensors, pickup in the distributor (not sure what this is called), wires, and plugs with no cure. This problem is very strange as again, it only does it a constant speed; truck runs fine at idle, acceleration, deceleration, startup, etc. There may be a slight sulfur smell during idle and there is a decrease in gas mileage.
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I bought my 3.6 in november with 2k miles on and now have 15k, in the last month or 2 I've noticed that at odd times it idles high. It normally idles at 500-600 id say and will randomly peak to 1000-1100. It wouldn't really bother me except it sounds like hell and I have to practically stand on the brakes for it not to jump forward. I've had 13k miles and 6 months of problem free driving
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I have a 99 F450 with the 7.3L in it. I brought it home the other day and parked it. Later I went to do something with it and I had no throttle response at all. I checked the wiring going in and coming out of the throttle position sensor. I have approx. 5 volts going in and the voltage sits at about .5 volts and rises as the accelerator is depressed on the outgoing wire. The other switch on the pedal is open and does close when the pedal is depressed, so it seems those are fine. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to have on the 3rd wire that goes to the TPS.
I have a Bully Dog tuner and it shows an exhaust back pressure sensor error and a couple of voltage errors to the accelerator pedal. I read somewhere that someone had an exhaust sensor short out and it starved the accelerator pedal from voltage or something like that but I do have good voltage at the pedal going in and out. I ordered a new sensor and tube.
If the exhaust pressure sensor was shorting out and I unhooked the wires could that make the pedal work if the sensor was the problem or would the accelerator pedal not work at all without that sensor being connected? (The old tube was somewhat plugged up and I saw it had a small rust hole in it)
If it's not the sensor, what else can I check? Where can I check under the hood to see if the wires from the TPS are getting power to where they need to? I assume they go to the computer and that tells the pump or whatever to give more fuel.
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High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
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In the last few months, I've been having misfires at idle. I didn't realize at first what the vibration was, since I had cams installed over the summer and had my flywheel replaced a couple of weeks ago. I have replaced the plugs and coil packs and for a couple of days, it ran fine. Tonight, they started up again, mostly in a single cylinder. I swapped out coil packs - no change. Switched plugs between two cylinders - the misfire followed the plug. Swapped in an old plug - things improved, misfires went from 2-3 per second to maybe one every 5-10 seconds. Few to no misfires when revs go up. My battery is 5 years old, could that be an issue? Wire harnesses - do they go bad?
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I have a 2005 F350 diesel, 54000 miles. I was at a red light today, engine is idling normaly.. light turns green and I step on the throttle and get nothing. My truck is rolling (in drive) as if it were in nuetral. I shut the engine off and it does not start for 10 to 15 min. Then it fires up and seems to be running as if nothing happened.
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I've got a R32 with nearly 100K miles on it. Several days ago I was adjusting my shifter cables and am not sure if i accidentally leaned up against any sensors or their associated connectors that are in that vicinity. I took the car for a drive to feel how the shifter adjustment had turned out. I was building engine RPM from 2500-4000 RPM, I let off the acceleration pedal and felt a small and new kick as if something got loose, popped off, or backfired. Not sure what it was but my engine started to misfire in what seemed to be in several cylinders. It idles rough but the needle doesn't exceed 1000 RPM during idle. When driving calmly, there is sporadic misfire. If pushed hard to build RPM, it will misfire heavily.
I scanned the vehicle and got the following codes,
P0300
P0301
P0303
P0305
I've checked
- Every hose I can see and feel for Vacuum leaks
- Checked all my fuses
- Swapped coils from banks 1,3,5, with 2,4,6
- Disconnected, cleaned and reconnected camshaft hall sender sensors and tightened the bolts.
- Have erased the coded and the same codes are back.
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Bought my 2006, V6, about 2 months ago. This morning was the first really cold once since I bought the care. When I started it today, the idle speed was about 1200 RPM. It took a few minutes to warm up and then the idle speed dropped to normal. Quick question. Is this normal?
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