Passat (B5) :: 1999 VW Key Fobs Complete Dead?
Jun 20, 2006
So my two key fobs ran out of batteries and I didn't do anything for it for over half a year. I finally decided to do something about it, got new batteries, replaced them, and tried to do the manual thing. Stick one in the driver side, turn it click it or whatever, and it didn't work.
I tried all different permutations, switched the key positions, different button clicks, nothing .. so I left it for another half year or so just manually opening my doors.
Today, I'm sitting in the VW dealership, finally having been so fed up I was just going to pay for the reprogramming. They just told me that the keys are completely dead and I need to buy new fobs.
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The dealershhip told me my 12volt battery may be dead. the symptoms are the car has now power and the key fobs do not work. I tried jump starting last night. The first time I hooked up jumper cables up my alarm started going off. I lost connection and reconnected and only the orange light came on on the power button, and check engine light came on and green light came on on park button.
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my car will not start. The fobs won't unlock anything or open the trunk. The controls in the door don't work (power windows, trunk release, gas tank door). The stereo works
The lights work
when u put the key in the door and like open/close the windows it works
tried jump starting it and push starting it
i drove it to the grocery store and i went to turn it on again when i pulled in the driveway it wouldn't work...
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Three weeks ago I left my lights on while at work. After I jumped it, everything was running terribly. I had absolutely no power and it felt like the engine was going to fall out at any time. I got it home and had a roommate look at it. After not seeing anything wrong, I tried starting it again and everything ran perfectly fine. I'm assuming it was something with the computer and it just needed reprogrammed.
So last week a friend of mine drove the car and also left the lights on. When we went to jump it, it would start for 2-3 seconds then stall, even with a little gas. After a few attempts, it stopped starting. Now, it'll turn but nothing else. We pulled the battery and put it on a charger. The battery held 12.6V and is only 6 months old. Put it back in and got the same result.
The fuel pump is turning on and I've checked every fuse. It is around 20 degrees out but I had a full tank so I don't believe it to be a frozen fuel line. It seems like an electrical problem since there were no mechanical problems before the dead battery. The only complaint I had was a lack of power sometimes, but I don't think that would have a great deal with this.
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When coming to a complete stop, whether from 5 mph or 50 mph. After I've been stopped for about 2 - 3 seconds, the transmission feels like it gives a little jerk. It feels something like a car coming out of gear without the clutch pushed in (not quite that severe but that's the general feeling).
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I have this horrible metal clunking noise coming off of my front end. I just had new brakes put on the car and the mechanic said everything looked good around the assembly. But now when I am approaching to stop, right as I apply a bit more pressure to the brakes before stopping, I get a soft clunk inside the car... but I feel it through the pedal. When the windows are down and I am going slow enough, I can hear it clink (clink, not clunk). It's a very metal on metal sound.... I thought of my control arms, however there is no sound what-so-ever when I steer left to right....
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Wierd new noise from my brakes - No issue when I press the pedal, and they work just fine. However just as I'm about to come to a complete stop the brakes feel like the ABS starts kicking in. I can make it not stop by lightly pumping the brakes but this can't be right. What it could be. I just had CV boot replace if that could have done something.
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Associated symptoms include no power steering, complete lack/absence of stability and traction control. This has happened to me a few times in the past, but has never stayed in after multiple start ups (and other remedial action). 2-3 times it's happened on startup, and cleared after a restart, one time while driving, and cleared on its own. This is going on the list of issues with less than 7k on the car.... 2012 3.6 sel
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I got new brakes pu ton lats month (semi-metalic). Any way I was driving to work and it was raining , roads were wet and my car was shifting weird after coming to a complete stop. once i went it would shift into first gear hard. I took it to a mechanic but he couldn't find a problem.
Then it was fine, no problem but today it was raining an dmy car did the same thing. Anytime I went when a light turned green or his the gas after being at a stop sign. the car would stutter as it shifted into first gear. like it would go , then act like it was stuck and then shift
It has only happened twice and its both been raining. Also my tires are really really bad.
Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
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My girlfriend has a 2006 prius with two fobs, one fob works just fine opens/closes doors and red led illuminates, the other fob does not; I have replaced the cr 2032 battery, and verified that the battery works with a voltmeter. no battery energizes this fob as determined by depressing the membrane switches and NOT seeing any red led illumination. I could possibly fix the circuit if I could separate the two plastic housings.
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I've got a UK 2003 Phaeton (78Kmiles). Picked it up 6 months ago and have put 8K miles on it with no issues at all until...
The key fobs just stopped working. Car was supplied with two fobs and both stopped working. Replaced the batteries to no avail. Press any of the buttons = light on the key works but the car ignores it totally. (even right next to it)
I can use the key for entry / lock /,alarming, but it's really not cricket for such a fine automocar.
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A few months ago I'm key fobs stopes working the I switched out the batteries and still no progress. What it could be?
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I replaced the batteries in my key fob yesterday, and now it doesn't work. My car has no accessible exterior key holes, due to the trunk lock being seized as long as I've owned it, as well as the drivers door lock having the exterior plastic cap(is there a lock still hiding under there?) So instead, I hopped in through the sunroof since I had left it open, and once I opened the door the alarm went off. I disconnected the battery, and when I reconnect it, the immobiliser resets. I assume that my fobs have reset, so with there being no exterior locks and no fobs programmed, what should I do? The car is not driveable at all right now, and I can't even close the sunroof in case it rains.
Some additional details:
2000 Golf 2.0 VIN WVWBA21J0YW745218
Fobs are HLO 1JO 959 753 F
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My Mom used my Ex to take the kids to the park today. When I went to unlock it with the fob.... NOTHING! I thought maybe a bad battery, but when I got home and tried the other one it didn't work either. Is there a fuse or something that would have gone bad? Everything else in the truck is working fine except for the remotes.
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I have a problem with my 2007 Prius. The low beam and both FOBS for the car quit working at the same time. It worked the previous day as always, then the next morning, the car would not automatically unlock and had to use the FOB mechanical key for entry. Then I noticed that the headlights (LOW)would not turn on, but the high beams worked fine. Just an FYI I have changed the headlights on this car at least 3 times in the past 4 years.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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I had my wallet and key stolen and my spare has somehow gone missing too. A dealership has quoted me half hour to program and an hour and half to reseed.
One of the things I was told is I need the reseed to cancel any previous fobs the car was programmed to. I don't care if the old fob is out there and could be used for my car. If this is the only reason for reseed I don't want it.
I am confused. Somewhere I think I read that if you don't have any keys then you'll need a reseed no matter what.
I had the black logo fob, not a proximity one.
Why a reseed needs to be done when you have no key to go off, or why you don't.
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Smart key fobs do not work in touch mode.
Replaced batteries in both fobs.
Both fobs start the car and lock,unlock and alarm sounds when buttons pushed.
BUT... touching the lock slot on the door or trying to unlock the door by touch does not work.
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Tonight the wife when she got home set the car's alarm off and after she turned it off none of our remote starter fobs will function (lock, unlock, alarm..)
The factory fobs still work fine.
Am I stuck going back to Hyundai to get the remote starter fobs fixed ?
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Have an 06 F250. When I slow down to make a turn then accelerate it's like the drive shaft spins half a turn before it catches. Been doing it for awhile now. Now I'm get a clunk when I come to a complete stop. When you stop then truck settles there is a little clunk. Does this sound like the slip yoke problem?
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New batts in remotes (remotes do nothing but do start the car when inserted in dash).
12 volt batt removed and tested good at autozone.
Tried the "key" button under steering wheel in both positions still not working..
Checked all fuses under the hood, all OK ...all other items in the car seem to work..
None of the exterior black buttons work..
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