Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Ticking In Valve Train
Sep 20, 2006
99 Passat 1.8 Turbo 4 cyl. Noticing a ticking in the valve train. Louder @ cold start. Can't hear it on acceleration, just when sitting. Sometimes it won't do it at all. But most recently it's constant. The other morning I cranked on and the CEL came on.
Took it to mechanic, he let it set for while to cool down, restarted and the CEL was off (hasn't come back on), he could hear the ticking, thought maybe the timing belt needs to be replaced or adjusted, the 02 sensor or possibly week lifters?????
July 06' VW did a "desludge" (for free!) and replace all parts having to do w/ oil and filled w/ synthetic. So that's not the problem. My mechanic isn't familiar with VW valve trains, belts, lifters, heads etc. He's done a great job on everything else, but acts like he's really scared to open this can of worms.
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Dad has a 2010 F150 CC SB. it has the 5.4 in it. Ever since day one it has had a noticeable tick in the valve train. But it can only be heard inside the truck when there is no other noise... Open the hood and its not there. Ford dealer told dad that it was normal, and that the firewalls are just not thick enough where it gets really close to the engine and that the sound is transferred to the firewall.
NEXT question... Not always, but sometimes when the truck is started cold, it will puff white smoke.... Every time dad has had it at the dealer they say they cannot ever see it. Curious if any of your trucks have this issue, before I take it back there with again, asking to go start every truck on the parking lot listening for the tick and the smoke...
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I bought a used 2008 Rx350 with 75,000 miles 2wd ... The car runs great, gets the advertised fuel mileage etc.. The engine seems (is)noisy to me at idle. Can't hear it while driving. sounds like poorly adjusted valves.
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I have an 02 Eddie Bauer V8 AWD that is making a ticking noise at low speeds ( under 10mph ) on the pass. side. It sounds like a rock in a hubcap noise. I have pulled the wheels and checked the CV boots and they are fine.
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Lately I have noticed a sound when turning left but not right. It sounds sort of like when you go across a steel deck bridge, it's wheel speed related, not engine speed. Could it be an axle? I have 148,000+ miles on it. any diagnose/fix? As soon as it gets above freakin cold here.
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Bmw 735il 1988 : Car has been sitting for 4-years I have done all the maintenance including the Valve adjustment .012 cold. I hear a louder then normal ticking in the valve train seems like its coming from the intake side towards the rear. I double checked all the gaps several times and they are correct. Could this be a carbon build up, plugs were black due to a bad coolant sensor everything tune up related has been replaced. Before the adjustment I started the car for a few minutes and did not hear the ticking, does it need to go for a long drive or am I missing something? Is there a way to narrow with valve is causing this, could it be the oil tube blocked on the rear section? Can I remove the valve cover and observe with out taking an oil bath?
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Where is the PCV valve on passat 99?
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Finally pulled the trigger and traded our 2008 santa fe SE to 2.0T with leather pkg, haven't had time to do proper intro and didn't want this to be my first post... We have less than 1000 miles and engine is ticking quite badly, not always and doesn't go away when engine warms up. Will take it to dealer next week so that they can diagnose it more in detail. And no, it's not GDI system, noise is clearly coming from valve or vct system.
I know it's covered by warranty, but this stinks big time and frustrates like... Not a good start.
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Ok not that last part, but I'm working on grandma's 08 Taurus V6, light blue. The first symptom was the check engine light, flagging P0011 camshaft adv timing bank 1. When I popped the hood there was a bad rattling/ticking noise from the valve covers. Upon checking the oil, I found coolant in it and the coolant reservoir empty. I figured it would be the head gasket so I topped off the coolant and started the car. No bubbles from the reservoir and compression check was good.
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I have a 2010 f-450 with 87K miles. 6.4 engine, auto trans, 4wd, and 4.11 rear. All seems fine in the earlier gears....in the later gears...at around 40mph...there's a very noticable shudder...enough to cause you to slow it down...since the shudder shakes the truck...then at about 35mph...it stops. repeat the speeds...shudder repeats.
Trans fluid is clear and all vehicle fluids and filters have been changed during the 4000 miles I have owned the truck....with the correct fluids, filters, and additives. There's also what sounds like a coasting whirling noise in the torque converter area while in neutral....which may or may not be related.
The last time all was normal...a bang .....as if I ran over a cinder block (which I did not) occurred...leading me to believe a bolt or part sheared. There is no metal in the magnetic drain plug of the tranny filter.
There are no codes indicated other than ODBC drive cycle incomplete. I do not see any obvious damage on any of the universal joints...
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Having trouble with a shutter upon take off in there drive train. It only happens when I am going straight. It does not do it when I am turning or anything. I just bought the truck used sat. It has around 18000 miles on it. I haven't had a chance to put a load on it yet to see if it does it then.
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ok so about a year ago and 7 thousand miles ago (abouts) I did a engine build and rebuild I had brand new injector cups, injectors (180/100's) and new o-rings......now I've got fuel in my coolant and smokes like a freight train in the mornings white/grey I believe (its dark) but never black smoke but not the smell of coolant like unburnt fuel truck starts up amazing at 10 degrees' when I had the machine shop building my heads for my stg 1 cam I had told them not to install my cups well they did anyways and used red locktite when I keep hearing and seeing recommended to use green and have used green in the past
I know most situations are cracked cup, cracked heads, my biggest question is ya think the red locktite will hold? And since the cups are new could it be a injector o-ring? dosent the fluids on the injector go botton to top (coolant-fuel-oil) and a bad oring mixing the two I did notice my fuel psi was sittin higher liker 75 psi iv lowerd it since then
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I have a 2006 f250 superduty crew cab longbed with the v10 gas motor. it has 201000 miles on it and towed great up until last month. I was towing a 5000lb trailer down the interstate at around 68mph,suddenly it was like the drive train disengaged and the motor had nothing left, check engine light on but no overheat condition or lack of oil pressure. we put a new fuel filter and pump on and maf, took trailer out again and same problem, pulled to the side and turned off, immediately restarted and ran fine. It has a cat not cleaning code in it now!
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So on my 2003 F250 SCLB 4x4, I I was driving 70 or 80 miles to Huron in Ohio, to pick up a boat for a buddy with my truck. On the way up I heard a new clattering noise coming from the suspension or drive train, and we couldn't figure out what it was. After picking up the boat and coming back home without a problem, I looked under the truck and couldn't see any U-joints loose, But I saw that my right rear backing plate was disintegrated and gone. I took the truck to the shop and they said that the noise I'm hearing is the guts of the emergency brake pads and pins bouncing around in there when I drive and that my rear wheel could lock up at any time.
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My V6 4Motion Passat has a CEL for an N80 valve... tried cleaning, didn't do anything. But its only getting 400-430 kms to the tank, even for winter that's pretty bad for 95% highway driving.
Could that cause bad fuel mileage?
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I have a sneaking suspicion my PCV valve is out, having never had this happen before it is merely an area i want to check off if it happens not to be (although I'm about 98% sure it is).
I have an 06 2.0T and yessss i know i could take it to the dealer and all that good stuff, but i like messing around w. these issues myself to build some confidence w. the motor.
Symptoms include:
V8 style gas mileage (about 21-23 if i'm lucky)
No pep in its step
Abnormal idle and when switched into Neutral idle gets smooth, yet RPMs begin to shudder some
No CEL
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Just wondering if I will know via a check engine light if when my Diverter valve may act up. I don't really want to add a boost gauge if I can let the onboard diagnostics do the work for me. So if I loose boost will I know?
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There is a black plastic cover that is on the passenger side of the engine, it is visible from the top side of the motor and is right behind the alternator and next to the coolant resivoir bottle. There are three hoses that run right next to it. I hope that is a good description. anyway, there is a pretty loud ticking noise coming from behind that cover. I just bought the car and when I took delivery of it i noticed it and the dealership had the techs look at it. they said everything is normal. were they right? this is on a 2006 2.0t.
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I've had my 2000 V6 Passat in for service three times with Secondary Air System issues - the dealer said that the whole thing needed replacement. The indy shop identified a couple of things to repair but said total replacement was unnecessary. A secondary airs system valve has been replaced twice (same one both times). Check engine always comes on within a day - we took it to another dealer for their opinion and again. Said that I need to replace the valve (third time!).
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Our 2007 Passat 2.0T had the 30K service and the fuel pressure sensor and pressure regulating valve (PCV valve) recalls done several months ago. Several weeks ago the check engine light came on so we took it in to the dealer yesterday. By the way, the car also felt subtly sluggish, had a slightly unstable idle and sometimes seemed to "stick" in gear on deceleration (ie, not shift down normally).
Here are all the DTC codes that were stored:
P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P2187, P2279, P3138, 02635
The service adviser said the problem was that the recall valves that VW sent them were no good (I think he said it was the -F valve) and that they now have an updated valve.
The new part number is 06F-129-101-K
By the way, our Passat is driven "conservatively," ie, no high boost levels or anything else that would stress the PCV valve.
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I want to have my oil cap sit close to the valve cover rather then have that long funnel.
I want to go from this:
To this:
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