Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Throttle Body Malfunction Code P1545
Oct 16, 2011
I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
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I have a 1999 B5 Passat GLS V6. It's been running well, though I had to replace the CCM last winter due to water intrusion. Recently, the battery needed replacing, and I swapped it out, then the car wouldn't restart normally. I can get it to start by holding a bit of throttle, but it still runs rough and won't idle. The Check Engine Light is on, and my OBDII reader gives me the P1545 code. The car will run in 'limp mode', but it maxes at about 15mph, and I need to keep a little throttle on constantly to keep it from stalling. I think I could make it the mile or two to the local VW dealer, but maybe late at night, with no traffic - it's certainly not driving normally, or even just 'poorly'.
A bit of Googling says that I need to do the Throttle Body Adaptation by opening the hood (and maybe the driver's door, turning the key to the 'run' position without starting the car, and then waiting for the whining noise that indicates the throttle servos are running through their range, and then I'll be fine. However, this procedure has not worked. Am I doing it wrong? Or does it not work with this make/model/year?
I walk up to the car, unlock it, pull the hood lever in the footwell, go open the hood fully, then sit in the driver's seat, leave the driver's door open a bit, and turn the key to 'run', without going all the way to 'start'. I've tried this procedure after clearing the code with my OBD reader, with and without cycling the key to off, and various other ways. If I can't make this work, then it's off to the VAG-COM list, and see if there's someone in North Seattle who can assist. I can also take it to the dealer, but I'm not thrilled about trying to drive it even that far.
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Started my car this morning to warm it up, idled for ~ 20min. weather conditions. I returned to my car, and it was misfiring and threw the p1545 throttle body code. There was a mk5 tsb for a similar problem involving wiring. 49k miles, stock tune, w CTS catted dp.
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I have a 2000 GTI GLX VR6 and when I start it in the morning (ie cold) after the initial "choke" and the revs drop it becomes erratic. Sometimes it will stall out. If I restart the car it will throw a check engine light and go into limp mode. If I let the car warm up it runs fine. If the car has been driven and is relatively warm it runs fine. Initially there were several codes but after replacing the MAF and the fuel pump relay the only remaining code is P1545.
My mechanic seems to think it may be the coolant temperature sensor. The code seems to indicate the problem is the throttle. "Throttle position control malfunction". Not sure why warming it up makes a difference (unless of course it is the temp sensor). When I replaced the MAF sensor I did clean the throttle body. I was very careful in doing so. Problem existed prior to my cleaning it as well. After changing the fuel pump relay things were better for a few days but then the problem returned.
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I recently purchased a 1999 vw passat gls 1.8t. Initially the guy I bought it off of told me that when he was rebuilding the turbo he stripped the main shaft bolt, so it needed a new turbo. So I bought a k-04 off of ebay and installed it. The battery was dead so I replaced the battery as well. When I first tried to start the car it would start for a second kind of chugging and then die. I went to my local auto parts store and rented a scan tool and it gave me 2 codes. The first code was P1545 and the other was P1818. As far as how many miles the engine has on it I don't know for sure as the engine has been replaced and apparently no one knows how many miles it actually has.
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Would a corroded throttle body cause a false code P0332 knock sensor.
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not working with diagnosis. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. How to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims. [URL] .....
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Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
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Throttle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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Checked for leaks around intake, vacuum lines, etc. found none.
Tried the relearn procedure and still no luck. Car idea higher than normal ( just over 1000 rpms warm). Also feels like it wants to pull even when stopped.
So I figure I have either:-damaged the throttle body somehow cleaning it- Have incorrectly implemented the re learn procedure- missed a vacuum leak ( possible but doubtful)- or something else I don't know about
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I have a 02 1.8t passat that if I don't start it for two days the battery will be totally dead. I have taken it to two places and they cant find what the draw is. The only thing that i could think of is my horn that sometimes when I am in the car it goes of randomly and my right side mirror that sometimes runs on. And my other problem is that when I drive it and I get to 3500rpm the throttle body shots of and I loose all my boost. I got a new turbo installed trying to fix the problem but still keeps happening. The only thing I could think of is that i have a stage 1 revo flash and when I took the old turbo out it may have erased the memory of the flash.
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2006 Honda CRV, throttle by wire. How can you get the throttle plate open to clean the throttle body etc.
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Back in March I started a thread regarding my 04 Santa Fe 3.5 which would not start after a spark plug change.
After a ton of research, & a smoke test on the intake I came to the conclusion that there was an issue with the throttle sensor as I unknowingly opened it when I was removing the intake to get to the last bolts behind the manifold. Shortly after my post, I decided to bite the bullet & buy a junkyard TB out of another Santa Fe 3.5.
After installing the new TB, the car now starts but runs extremely rich. I am now getting the code p2135 for Electronic Throttle Control System Malfunction.
Luckily up until this point I haven't needed the Santa Fe as it is mainly a winter vehicle. However, winter is quickly approaching & I would like to have her running before the snow starts to fly.
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High mileage 1999 4.6 4wd 5 spd: Needed to replace the rear ABS sensor and decided to clean the throttle body too while the battery was unplugged. Cleaned it around the butterfly and not much else. Truck idled at 750 BEFORE cleaning the TB. Now it fluctuates between 820 and 950 rpms. Also tends to stay at a higher rpm after pushing in the clutch and taking it out of gear.
Did a thorough check for vacuum leaks, nothing. After research, I cleaned the IAC and re installed (battery was disconnected then too). No improvement. Unplugged the IAC while running- ZERO change in idle. Installed new IAC, no change whatsoever. Unplugged NEW IAC, no change whatsoever. Is there an issue with the PCM needing time to fully re learn? Am I missing something.
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I have a 2015 F250 with a 6.2L and want to clean my throttle body. I have done several before on other vehicles but, just figured I would ask before I just jump in there. Cleaning throttle body on their 6.2L?
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Read about and want to clean my throttle body. Why have to remove it from the truck ? 2009 f-250 5.4 .....
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So while driving yesterday I had a EPC and Check eng light come on and go away shortly after... maybe 1hr of drive time. Any way I took into dealer today to have them scan and they stated it was an issue with my throttle body.
Now as soon as he told me that he also said he can not do any work under warranty on my engine due to Stage 2 software and intake/down&mid pipe...... no big deal as I figured he would say something like that anyway. Should I take it apart and try to get it cleaned..... or what?
Its a 2010, with roughly 21k miles.... Had APR stage 2 for a few months now and this is the first thing that has come up.
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I've recently started popping up a random P2181 performance malfunction in cooling system.
It's so random and shows no signs of any other problems that I'm confused. Temp gets hot, stays exactly where it should be, 200. Never gets a tick hotter, or even close to above 200. Air works, heat works fine. No loss of power. It only seems to come on when I really put my foot down.
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My mother has the code to the radio, but when she was entering it she did it wrong. It now says "2 SAFE" or something similar and won't allow any other info entry. We even disconnected the power again and it still says the same thing. How do yo uget it baack to the point of allowing the 4 digit code to be entered?
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