Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Stammer On Acceleration - Gas Light / CEL Came On?
Oct 7, 2009
When I bought my car (used of course) the guy told me that they had replaced the water pump and the timing belt. When I test drove it everything felt great. turns out that after about ten minutes (cold motor) when the temp gauge reaches midway it starts to stammer on acceleration. this was last friday. yesterday on my way home from work my gas light had come on. I was going up a hill when the CEL lit up. I got gas this morning on my way to work. at one point i had to hammer it a little to get out in front of someone. thats when the once solid CEL began to blink.
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Just bought certified preowned 2009 Prius from dealer. Never had one before. I did test drive it for 20 minutes before purchase. But on the way home from buying it today I noticed a constant and subtle "stammer," on the freeway at speeds between 50 and 80 mph, like as if the car was very slightly and frequently shifting in speed even though the accelerator was in a constant spot and the road was flat. I watched as the display constantly shifted, like many many times per minute, where and how power was being generated/used.
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I have a 2006 Jetta with a 5 speed manual transmission and 35,000 miles. The engine randomly misfires causing it to stutter or stammer. The check engine light is on and has been for several weeks. Occasionally the check engine light flashes. I took it to a local mechanic who ran a series of diagnostic tests (no vacuum leaks) and they recommended having all the ignition coils replaced for all 4 cylinders. They also replaced the fuel filter. I did so but the problem soon returned to which they referred me to the dealer.
I decided to take it to a VW specialist in town and they replaced the spark plugs for all 4 cylinders. They noticed that some of the plugs were black with a buildup and some were clean. The problem soon returned. The VW specialist also recommended that I take it to the dealership as they too had no clear idea as to what the problem is.
The car did suffer rodent damage in 2007 but was still under warranty so all the wiring that had been chewed on was replaced. I experimented using premium gas and regular gas. Premium gas seems to make the problem worse. Also, the misfires seem to lessen as the weather gets warmer. I would like to fix the problem to avoid any catastrophic failure but am trying to avoid throwing money away on any more guess work.
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Lately I've been experiencing a howling noise upwards of 2000 rpm when accelerating under a certain throttle position... Basically makes a WOO type of sound coming from the drivers side of the car.. very noticeable and annoying. When I step on the gas harder it goes away, and if i just rev the car in neutral (no load) the noise will not happen! This makes it impossible to figure out where it's coming from with the hood open. Checked the IC hoses, air box and a bunch of vacuum lines and no luck...
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My '99 Passat (1.8t) shakes and jerks violently during acceleration. If the terrain is smooth & flat I don't seem to have a problem. The problem gets pretty extreme during acceleration especially if going uphill. Also, it seems as if it really kicks in when the transmission shifts gears. I have replaced the fuel filter, dump valve, & all 5 mounts to include the front snub mount.
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I have a kind of weird noise and feeling when I turn left with my 1999 1.8T Passat. It sounds like "clac clac clac".
It almost only happens when I'm stopped and I'm accelerating to turn left (U-turn or street crossing). I was wondering if it could be the left universal joint? I don't think and am pretty sure it is not the wheel bearings, but tell me if I'm wrong.
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I have a 99 VW Passat with 2.8 V6, FWD, Automatic tranny and it currently has 94.5K miles. Under semi hard or hard acceleration from either a rolling or standing start, the car vibrates something terrible. Steering wheel has bad vibration and the whole car shakes. If you back off and accelerate very slowly its pretty smoother.
I have had the tires balanced 3 time but the last 2 times the dealer and Sears didn't even move the weights. When cruising at amy steady speed on the highway there is no vibration whatsoever. So I don't think tire balance is the problem. The dealer then put in two brand new half shafts but its no better. I asked them to check the motor mounts but they said they are fine.
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So i replaced the faulty injector and the truck starts up great and runs great. The only issue is that now when i accelerate, the SES light comes on until i let it up a little. If i am at cruising speed or just a steady speed the light goes off. I havent checked for codes yet because the light didnt stay on. I have AE and know how to use most of it. Is there something i should be looking at? Could it have something to do with the Blue/Gray CPS i installed or maybe there could still be an air bubble in the oil rail from when i drained the rail ? I have a DP tuner and stage-1 injectors. Regardless it sure is nice to have my truck back out on the road. It was a horrible 3 weeks without it.
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I started to notice my battery light comes on during a hard acceleration. So I have been keeping track of it. When the rpm's hit 3200 and above the light comes on bright but never at any other time. I put a volt meter on it and I have 13.4 volts at an idle, as the engine revs up the voltage climes to 13.9 then when it hits the 3200 mark voltage drops right off to 12.4. It seems like a regulator issue to me. The parts store says my 5.4 has an external regulator is that so or is it built right into the alternator?
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I have been reading several past post regarding the misfire while in OD and going up a small hill with light acceleration around 45 to 55 mph. Everything points to the COP so I replaced it today. Still getting the code after 20 minutes of driving around. My truck shudders and looses power. I can either let up on the throttle or hammer down on it to eventually smooth it out and everything goes back to normal.
Check engine light flashed but didn't stay on. My scanner does report misfire on cylinder 7 (P0307). Haven't owned this truck very long so I don't know much of it's history except OASIS report shows nothing alarming. Guess next step is a new set of plugs.
Another first today, is the tachometer is stuck at 4500 rpm. Shut the truck off and let it sit for an hour, then went back to start and tach. acts like 4500 is the new zero and running engine at 1000 rpm now indicates 5500. 2007 F250 SD 5.4 ....
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I hooked up the computer P 14 came up. I have a 1999 v6 passat .....
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Its a 1999 graphite blue v6 passat. She was pulling away one night to head home and her coolant light went on. I popped the hood and a bone dry reservoir was staring back at me. i wasn't sure what color coolant to add so i put in some water for her to make it home. two days later it was dry again. She put down cardboard and nothing showed, nothing in the exhaust smoke and well I am not sure if these engines are known for this but its weird shes been driving all these years without filling up other than routine maintenance and now its disappearing. I bought the blue vw coolant and will fill it up tomorrow but in the meantime...
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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so i just bought a brand new 99 passat 1.8T... with 112,000 one it and for some reason the overhead light isnt working. the previous owner said he had tested the bulbs but for some reason he couldn't get it to work. is there a fuse or something that might be the cause of it not working? Also the sunroof dial works just fine which makes me wonder if it is something as simple as a fuse.
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I purchased my 99 vw passat 1.8t about a year ago with 108k miles, currently i am at 128k. Unbeknownst to me since I have owned it my mechanic was changing the oil with regular oil.
One year and 20k miles later....1 month after an oil change my oil light came on. I took it in and it was dry. There are no noticable leaks (my driveway and radiator fluid are clean). I understand using regular oil instead of the recommended synthetic can destroy your turbo, and that regular oil can get burned up in the turbo and emitted into the exhaust.
Does this sound like a turbo problem? If so how do I know if it is completely destroyed or not? I am monitoring the oil everyday now and switching back to synthetic this weekend...I am hoping that there may be a smaller issue I can get fixed rather than replacing the entire turbocharger, if that is in fact what the problem is.
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My 1999 Passat B5 Wagon with only 46K miles (a great used deal) has the yellow airbag light on in the dash. What usually has to be done to diagnose the problem? In other words, what sort of damage am I talking about at the dealer?
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I have a 99 VW Passat wagon with 140K miles. 4,000 miles ago, the oil pressure light was triggered and I had about $1200 worth of work on the engine (oil change replaced with syntec, replaced oil filter, washer, pump, restrictor, sealant, and gasket). Last week, the oil pressure light was blinking again so I took it back to the same service shop at our local dealership. They said that I need a new engine.
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I have a 1999 passat gls 1.8t with an intermittent ABS light code 1203. i cant find a description for it anywhere. Many passats are infamous for abs modules going bad but this is an intermittent problem that the code is not always set so I am trying to pin point it down.
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My 1999 GLS Wagon died on me at a stop light. The motor turns but won't start. Replaced fuel pump, filter, fuse, and relay on advice from a few friends. Still no go. Another friend recommended I check the crank sensor.
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I got a 99 1.8t. Here's the deal, misfiring at idle, flashes battery light. alt and battery was checked and there great. it has a maf code, so I unplug the maf and still get the same misfiring. maf was fine be4 i tried cleaning it, now it throws the code. it had misfiring be4 i clean it also. next problem is it stutters and misses if i go wot in 4 or 5 gear and the batt light flashes it doesn't throw a misfire code. Also if I am idling and i floor it, it stutters and misses at lower rpm rage and then is fine at higher rpm range. i replaced plugs and gapped em right, i did a power balance test and the coils all are firing so is the injectors. I don't got vag but i do got a good obd2 scanner i was looking at the data wen car was off and i seen that if i floor it the tps only reads 77.7% . Also my timing says its 12 degrees and idle fuel pressure is fine i checked with a gauge. Pretty much misfiring with no codes thrown and flashing battery light.
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I found out today that my left rear brake light bulb is out. How do I replace it? And where do I buy the light bulb? The manual doesn't say the model # and instructions.
I drive a VW Passat 1999 1.8 T
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