Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Shakes When Lift Off Throttle At Speed - Bad Oil
May 22, 2008
1999 Passat GLS, 1.8T, 5 Speed, 162K miles on car, 50K miles on replaced head after a timing belt snap.
Okay, first issue, car accelerates smoothly, and holds interstate speed just fine. BUT, when you lift off the throttle at speed, you get a shimmy-shake out of the front suspension like the tires are suddenly out of balance. Back on the skinny pedal, smooths back out. Never touching the brakes during this whole cycle.
Second issue is what I found tucked into the rear storage compartment with the first aid symbol. No first aid kit (should there be one?) but two extra quarts of oil. 10W-30, uh, dino oil. Not synthetic. I got no maintenance records other than a copy of the repair invoice for the head work, so I'm not sure what oil was used in regular oil changes, but at least the "top-off" quarts are not the right stuff. Should I be overly concerned? Should I immediately do an oil change to Mobil 1 like I was planning? What about some kind of engine flush?
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When I start my 1999 1.8 petrol passat it needs some throttle to start, low idle speed, misfires, drop in idle, so boot the throtle full - still no pick up and sits on 1000 rpm busy backfiring away! It started after fitting a new windscreen wiper motor, battery was disconnected but went back ok, all other electrics work and no warning on the dash. Didn't touch anything in the engine bay nor were there any issues before I changed the wiper motor.
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Just installed a 4" lift sunday, with a BDS drop pitman arm and then i retorqued it to 185 ft/lb. I now have this extremely low speed (<2mph) or stopped clunking whenever i turn the wheel. I just replaced the upper and lower tie rod that goes from the pitman arm, and its still doing the same thing. Steering box is shot?
Clunk after lift install - YouTube .....
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I just did a stage 1 remap on a 2010 golf r, everything is works like a charm. However, when I lift-off the throttle the car jerks hard. This only occurs on the first start and cures itself after a drive. I could simply replicate the problem by shutting down the engine and turning it back on. it doesn't have to be cold. it seems to be the ecu forgot everything it learn after i switch off the engine. Happens in all gears including reverse. noticed that during reverse, the car seem to go fast with light throttle , and back to normal once the problem is cured after a drive. Had no issues before the tune.
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I am getting a vibration when I lift off of the throttle and again when I press the throttle. What causes this. Also what is the normal operation of the 4x4 system is this a true all wheel drive system with a 2 speed t-case or is this the normal old control trac that I had in my 98 4.0.
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I have a 93 F250 diesel 4X4 with the automatic, the transmission was rebuilt by a reputable shop les than 10000. miles ago, every few months it will act up, it will act like I put it in neutral then it slams back in gear, then it shifts very hard, sometimes it will not shift until i lift the throttle. Sometimes I can shut it off and when i start it again it will be back to normal, other times it will do this for a few days, then work fine for another month or two.
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I drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
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My 98 1.8t Passat is throwing a P1565 Idle Speed Control Throttle Position Lower Limit Not Obtained. I have cleaned the throttle body with no improvement and cleared the code many times with no luck. The car only has 114k on it car runs fine although some times will give me problems starting it ill have to sit and crank it for 40 seconds or more and also will idle on rear occasions 1300 vut normally between 850 and 900.
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I have a 1994 Black Ford F150 and i was wondering if i could lift the truck 6 inches only using lift blocks (or any other cheap way to get my truck off the ground)....
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I just recently got my truck back, My father and I switched vehicles due to need and distance's being driven. 2005 F350 6.0, 164,000 miles
I couldn't wait to drive it again, I spent hours detailing and cleaning. Well I go to start and noticed it struggled to start, and didnt seem to be idling right. I looked under the hood and it was leaking fuel from the Regulator. I left it parked and never drove it since he last did. I read around on these forums and I bought the blue spring upgrade kit.
Now I notice it shakes at idle a lot more than it used to, pretty bad at times. Then upon driving it shakes even worse upon acceleration attempts, and has very poor throttle response. I have to put it nearly to the floor and even then the acceleration is nothing like it used to be. Most of my trip was highway at 60mph, and anytime it would start climbing a hill it would shake pretty bad with the acceleration. When i let off the gas to slow down before braking it stopped the shaking.
So I read around on here and I went back and used the factory bowl and valve for the regulator, still had the issue. Next I went back and replaced the blue spring with the original, still have the issue.
I just checked the FICM and it is reading between 48-49 during key on, cycle, and cranking.
Batteries are great
Alternator only reads 13.6 at 2k rpm idle, but have not had charging issues.
My father says he never noticed anything wrong with it other than it occasionally missing out. But I don't see how changing the fuel pressure regulator would have caused this. Especially since I tried every combination of oem and aftermarket parts, ensuring that all the connections and parts were installed correctly.
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A buddy of mine has a stock 1.8t auto with some miles on it. THe car sputters after you come off full throttle and then the check engine light comes on. we have replaced the blue coolant temp sensor and the 4 coils and plugs. car is still doing this.
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I have a 2008 Chevrolet with a V8 5.3 liter engine. When idle or at low speed the car shakes. When accelerating there is a drag. What could be the problem? And how can I resolve it?
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I own a Passat-07, i need to change the window lift switch on the driver's door. The black color on it has fall of.
My question is how to remove the cover ( so i change the switch. Can't see any screws or clips.
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I'm an Mk3 guy but I've gotten the hang of these beasts when I started to fix my brother's '99 B5 AEB. I got a VCDS scan from a friend and got this.
5 Faults Found:
18010 - Power Supply Terminal 30: Voltage too Low
P1602 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-00 - -
17953 - Throttle Valve Controller: Malfunction
P1545 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17952 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Large
P1544 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
16507 - Throttle Position Sensor (G69): Signal too High
P0123 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
Readiness: 0110 0101
I'm thinking either the throttle body is toast or maybe the ECU.
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I've noticed my car starting to shake when I'm in the speed range of 40 to 50 but really feel it at 45. I don't think it's a balance issue with tires because anything faster or slower it doesn't shake. The shake sensation I feel is on the front left side and I feel it mainly in sterling wheel but you can feel it throughout the car.
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Taking my car to get the brakes serviced this week. Every time I brake at a high speed the car shakes. I am guessing best case scenario I get the rotors resurfaced and worse case new rotors.
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I drive a 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8T 6speed which in South Africa is called 1.8T-R. The car shakes at idle and after driving for a while it cuts off power, when restarting it takes some time cranking before starting. After starting the EPC light comes on and the rev goes up to almost 2000rpm. It runs on an AUQ Engine.
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I have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
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My old car has this problem when it's on highway the steering wheel shakes quite a bit. Is it a wheel alignment problem or wheel balancing problem? Since I've just fixed the transmission I am driving this car more often(to save gas) and this problem is really annoying.
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I have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. Last year I had new brakes and I think the rotors were worked on. I also got new tires on all 4 wheels. I have noticed a shake when I brake, mostly from high speeds. I just had the tires rotated and the shake is still there.
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Every once in a while (maybe once a week) I notice that my transmission will slip (fails to engage for about half a second after hitting the throttle). Usually this happens after I have slowed down to almost a stop and then accelerate. The last time this happened I was on a slight incline (maybe 4%).
Is this something to worry about? Any easy way to test if this is an indicator of a big problem coming up down the road? The car has about 130k miles on it now and the transmission fluid and filter was changed at about 90k, the fluid level was checked by a VW tech so I assume it is correct.
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