my 99 passat 1.8t has lost power. it shakes at idle and when u give it gas it doesnt respond too good. kinda feels like it has a disconnected spark plug wire...what can be the issue?
View 4 RepliesEvery once in a while, while idling at a light/stop-sign/etc, I get a shudder in the engine... usually all is smooth as silk, and then its like some fat kid just jumped inside the engine compartment (I'm exaggerating) ok, a very small fat kid its like weight shifted somewhere and you feel the ripple from it.
I did find this old thread [URL] .... but doesn't look like much came of it. I don't really suspect its a big problem, but definitely nothing I've experienced since 4-5 VWs ago, when I had a throttle that would race up (but the engine revs don't seem to be changing during this).
Car is in the shop for 10k today anyway, so I figured I'd have them take a quick check. (gotta see if they can do anything for the lackluster AC too).
It's happened since new, I figured maybe it would work itself out, but it hasn't. On the first start up of the morning, It will start fine, rev up and as it is reving down it will chugg, miss, and shake, for about 5 seconds or so until it reaches idle. If I put it in gear while it does it, the whole car will lurch and shake. It operates fine after that.
View 1 RepliesDrove into work this morning (2 hour trip)...after the truck warmed up and I was cruising on the highway at around 80mph and 2100 RPMs the truck started to show a drop in the MPG rating. Usually around 19mpg...it was displaying 13-14mpg. I stopped to take on some fuel..when I did realized the truck was shaking pretty bad at idle and had an almost lope like sound. I shut the truck off and got some diesel...after starting her back up, the lope and shake was gone. I started on the highway again...running smooth and then it started to show low MPGs again but no shake...I accelerated thinking that I could unfreeze whatever was being restricted (turbo, injectors..) and it immediately loosened up and I started getting the MPGs I usually do and felt the truck gain more power. The last hour of the trip was completely normal. Did something just get stuck?
View 7 RepliesTruck all of the sudden out of no where started to shake at idle my first thought was that it is a miss. Then on hard acceleration blows black smoke with NO tune on at the time, plugged reader in and got code P0278 cylinder 6 contribution/balance. I'm assuming it is a dirty nozzle on the injector. Shake/miss clears out at about 900-1000 rpm. Truck as 247k on it. 50k on injectors. Has ported and o ringed heads, studded, and fully deleted, with bullet proof ficm. Would my assumption be correct?
View 6 RepliesI recently bought an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat crew cab FX4. It has an EGR delete, ARP studs, and the updated oil cooler. It has 138,xxx on the clock.
Randomly, only when it is at normal operating temperature it will have a slight shake to it at idle. when i try to take off from this shaky idle it feels like it is "missing" i guess you could say. it clears up about 1/8 a mile down the road every time. And i will go ahead and say this does not happen everytime it idles. Only maybe once or twice in a 30 minute trip.
What might be going on? I have not added a coolant filter yet, and it does not have synthetic oil in yet either (just bought it) I plan to use full synthetic Rotella 5w40 very soon. I think this might be a stiction problem? but i read it is uncommon to have stiction when warmed up. I do not have anything yet to pull codes or read the FICM yet. both batteries are good.
I have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesIts going into overdrive to early causing it to shake at around 40mph but when I get to 50mph it go away or under 35mph it not there either what could that be??? Just got torque converter and trans done and checked it wasn't that.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 SC430 with 170,000 miles on the odo. When at idle, the car shakes a little. I notice it the most when at a red light. But if I put the car in N, the shaking goes away. It happens with the most severity when in D and with my foot on the brake. I'm assuming the shake is normal for a car of this age and mileage, but i'd like to eliminate it.
View 10 Replies4 cyldr has very rough idle along with engine shake. Just started doing this. I replaced the cam sensor a few months ago and all has been well. But it started running so rough, almost like it jumped time. I was disconnecting sensors to see if motor idle changed and when I unplugged mass air flow sensor on air filter intake tube, nothing changed. Could this cause such a dramatic idle ?
View 2 RepliesHere's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
When my Camry is in DRIVE and sitting at a red light for example, my car will shake. It feels like it idles rough. If I put it in neutral the shaking goes away... only when in drive.
I took it to Firestone who mentioned I had a dirty throttle body. So I get this cleaned and the shaking has significantly reduced. However after a few months I'm back at square one. Dirty throttle body and care is shaking again. (Yes air filter is clean)
I noticed two things that I think might be contributing... After 5,000 miles my oil is pretty black and very low. (Time for an oil change) When I swipe my finger on the exhaust pipe, its really black but no black smoke comes out. I don't see any oil leaks outside of the engine, its actually pretty clean.
So two questions, is the low oil and black exhaust pipe normal? Why would my throttle body keep getting dirty?
So, I've had my car for about 4 years now. It's a 2008 basic PT Cruiser. About two years ago it started to make this weird noise whenever the AC was on. My car would shake and rumble if the AC was on during idle and the AC wouldn't be cool anymore. Whenever I was driving, it was fine. We charged it and then it quit doing that. A little after that, it started making this weird noise when I turned it on-kind of sounding like something was being banged around under the hood of my car. It also started to make this loud kind of screeching noise, and some gas or steam would sometimes (not often) come out from under the hood.
Then I got in a wreck and they said they fixed it when they repaired the car. Now, 2 years later, it's starting to make that same noise. The rumbling has continued, but when I charge it, it goes away. I just charged my AC about 5 weeks ago, but now it's starting again and the noise just started again this morning. I was told that there was a disc (something like that?) that may have cut my belt, but they said that they fixed that when they repaired my car from the wreck. If that was fixed, then shouldn't it not be doing this?
I have a 2007 F150 with the 5.4 FFV. Early last summer my truck started acting like the harmonic balancer was going bad, when it was hot out my engine would shake at an idle. Then in October it threw a check engine light, wouldn't get over 20 mph and was shaking the entire truck. The codes said my timing was out so I replaced the timing chains, guides and tensioners, which were bad on the passenger side. When I started it back up it ran rough, and the check engine light came back on with a "bank A over-retarded" code.
So I went back in thinking I had put the chain on one tooth off. Got it back together and it ran the same way. After doing some soul searching on this website I determined the VCT Solenoid for the driver's side may be bad, and I went back in a third time and replaced the solenoid. Now it runs worse than it did the first time, it won't even idle and it is nearly impossible to start in the first place... This truck only has 103,000 miles and was running great before this...
I have a 05 gli I just put a k04 turbo on. It runs on stock ecu but I have been told that's not the problem. When I start the car the rpm's spike to around 3 grand then slowly drop to normal idle rpm's when it gets under 1000 rpms the car starts to shake and idle hard. Idk what it is Cel is on and read misfires in 3 of 4 cylinders but checked plugs and everything they r fine. I'm thinking maybe vacuum leak or something along those lines.
View 6 RepliesI've had my 2010 GTI for 8 months now and have really only had one issue with it. When I start the car, it shakes before I start moving. Like, the steering wheel, body, pedals, gearshift, etc... It's not a violent shake, but definitely something I've never noticed in any other car I've owned including my MkV GTI. It doesn't seem like a normal feeling for a brand new car. I took it back to my original dealer at 4,000 miles and they said there was nothing wrong with it and they didn't feel any vibrations.
Well lately it's been vibrating more intensely and more often (at almost 8,000 miles) It now does the same thing while stopped in traffic or at lights. It's really annoying to me. I took it a couple days ago to a new dealer (I moved) and just talked to them on the phone. They also said there's nothing wrong with it and it's normal.
I forget exactly what they said it was because I was walking to the gym, but basically it was some cooling pump/fan that kicks on to cool the engine down and that's what is causing the vibration. But, they said it's normal and all VWs do it. I'm not quite sure why a fan needs to cool a perfectly cold engine in the morning though.
I have a 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport edition, automatic transmission, about 100k miles. Recently, when I turn on the engine -- sometimes -- it is very loud, and the car really shakes back and forth (in place) with the engine. It almost feels like the car is going to die. It feels like a very bad idle. If I wait, nothing changes. If I turn the car off, wait, and turn it back on, nothing changes. If I hit the gas, it continues, but decreases very quickly and by the time I hit a stop sign or red light (let's say 100 yards away), the car is more or less fine; no more fear that it's going to die, although there's still some noise that seems like it's coming from somewhere between the transmission and engine. I had the starter replaced last June (when it went kaput) and replaced the idle control valve a couple of months ago (the car kept dying when I came to a complete stop). I mainly drive it to/from work, about 50 miles each way, going 45-80 mph on a hilly freeway, and there have been no problems while driving.
View 2 RepliesI recently picked up a 2004 Mercury Mountaineer, 4.0 with 113,000 miles. OBD reader says misfire on 3 cylinders.. Installed new plug wires first.. nothing.. going to install plugs next when she is cold. Now, am I really looking at replacing the coil pack to end the misfire codes? She likes to buck and shake and idle around 400 rpms.. I know that is too low..
View 4 RepliesI drive an automatic transmission. After driving about 10 miles, when I come to a stop sign/stoplight in drive 4, the car will "brake" but will idle and then violently shake back into gear. It doesn't seem to happen in Drive 3, so what I do before a stoplight etc is slowly shift down to D2 or D1. Is the transmission totally shot? I had it replaced once.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
My wife was driving this morning and she said that the car engine started to hesitate and shake a lot, engine light came on, started to bling. Called road assistance and they did a great work towing the car in less than half hour. Also noticed a rotten egg smell from the exhaust or engine.
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