Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Pressure Going Down - Oil Leak?
Jul 12, 2009
on Friday i was down 2qts of oil so i topped it off and went for a 40-50 mile drive. as i got to my destination, i noticed the pressure going down from 190 to maybe 170? and when i took off from a stop light, i noticed that it just accelerated for awhile like the car was in neutral, then it caught the gears and continued on my way. when i got to the destination, i had some oil leak/tranny leak. not sure yet and also smoking in the engine bay like oil spilled on the exhaust manifold.
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I can smell oil buring on the engine untill the oil level gets more than a quart low. The dealer says there is pressure building up in the crankcase that is forcing the oil to leak out the seals. There is some kind of plastic relief valve (y shaped) that tends to plug up and I've had several of them replaced. But the oil continues to leak. Dealer is down to last idea. He thinks that exhaust blow by is causing the pressure & plans to replace the rings to eliminate that. Does this sound like the correct solution? There are 94,000 muiles on the car.
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I just replaced my injector cups a month or so ago and also injectors with some lower mile injectors. but now 3 weeks later still not getting any pressure at icp. I have dead headed pump got 3k plus but when i block off ether head i get no pressure. i have pulled injectors and checked for orings and they are fine...
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My uncles 1999 v10 started to leak from the high-pressure hose on the gearbox. Replaced the hose which lasted for a short time but is now leaking at the same spot. The hose swivels, is this normal, seems like a dumb design for a pressure hose. Also is there a certain trick to doing this hose? He also insists on using PS fluid instead of the ATF it calls for. Could this cause a problem with the seal?
Edit: Also the truck has been lifted on 35s since 16k miles and its now roughly at 170k. He tows with it as it is his work truck. But the truck is well taken care of.
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I recently came a cross a no start issue with my truck. It is 2005 ford f350 6.0 ... Found out I have a leak in the high pressure system. When I was taking out the bolts out from the manifold I stripped out two bolts. I know ford part # w301383 is the ford bolt. But I was thinking why use that same bolt and had have that issue again later.
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My in-dash sensor is going off, beeping three times, flashing for three more, then off. Oil level is fine. I am unsure about how to check oil pressure, and am interested in determining if the sensor is bad. How do I go about doing this? (1.8T, 1999).....
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I have a 99 VW Passat wagon with 140K miles. 4,000 miles ago, the oil pressure light was triggered and I had about $1200 worth of work on the engine (oil change replaced with syntec, replaced oil filter, washer, pump, restrictor, sealant, and gasket). Last week, the oil pressure light was blinking again so I took it back to the same service shop at our local dealership. They said that I need a new engine.
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a buddy of mine suggested I get a res delete recently but i inquired earlier about this to a sears auto mechanic and he said i'd have problems because of the loss of down pressure, is that a big deal? i have a 2.8 30 valve v6.
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This is strange but every so often, my 99 V6 Passat decides to piss out a few ounces of fuel overnight while parked in the garage. I usually smell it as soon as I open the garage door and it is always in the same location, just in front of the passenger rear tire. It will smell gassy for a few hours that day and then miraculously clear itself up.
This happens every few months and there doesn't seem to be any pattern to it, ie; just tanked up, low fuel level, hot day/cold day/humidity/car driven hard the night before/driven conservatively. It is a head-scratcher for sure and I don't want the car to suddenly ignite when I am on the highway.
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I have a 2005 Toyota Highlander. Ever since I got 4 new tires (~1 year ago), my low pressure light goes on about once every 6 weeks. Each time, there is at least one tire that's dropped about 2 lbs below recommended psi. Had it to the dealer (where I purchased the tires) and they told me there's no leak in any of the tires; that the low psi is because of fluctuation in the weather temps and subsequent fluctuation in tire pressure. I've never had this issue on any other car before. Are they pulling my chain b/c they don't want to replace bad tires or is this a legit reason?
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I have a 2010 VW Beetle. I did not use my car during the Christmas holiday and when I came back home I got 4 flat tires. Then I had it towed to the mechanic but they said they didn't find any leaks or punctures in any of the tires and it was just because the freezing cold weather. After 2 weeks I had flat tires again and I went to another mechanic, they told me the same thing but a few days later the low tire pressure light keeps showing on the dashboard and the tires become pretty flat every other day (about 15 psi). This is really bothering me because I have to go to the gas station to put air in the tire everyday.
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I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
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My'97 Lincoln has developed a non pressure transmission fluid leak. It shows up on the street, but I measure it with the car sitting for a week and it amounted to about 2 teaspoons but the dipstick still shows "do not add". When it gets to the "add" point on the dipstick, how much transmission fluid would that be?
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My AC went last fall. I saw signs of a leak in the high pressure line. Took it to the Nissan dealer last week and they diagnosed the same problem. They changed the HP line. Told me it was good, but when they pulled it up, no AC. They took it back in and said the low pressure line was leaking as well so they changed it. Still didn't work, although it was a little cooler but the compressor seemed pretty loud. Told me they thought it might be the thermistor. I bought the sensor and replaced it myself. AC seemed to work, but sure enough, it only blows slightly cool air and the compressor is still making a bit of noise.
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I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
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Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
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I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
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My local dealer (who seems very good) suggested they repair an oil leak at the timing chain cover before my 60K warranty expired. Kept the car 2 days waiting for parts. Then some very odd problems developed.
First I noticed the AC wasn't working: fan runs but will not blow cold. Dealer said must be something else because they didn't touch the AC. Then after a half hour of driving the AC suddenly starts blowing cold.
Maybe an hour of driving later, the dash beeps, alerts, and "low oil pressure" comes on the screen. Shut it off & have it towed to dealer.
While checking the mileage at the dealer, the service adviser and I both see the dash beep, alert, and ABS and Trak alarms go off.
Tech resets the computer but says he can't find any error codes. Systems and oil pressure all seem ok.
I drive 10 min, and.... beep, alert, "low oil pressure".
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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I recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
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I have a leak in the fuel pressure regulator housing. Seems like a common problem. I ordered the new kit from FICMrepair.
While I wait for the new kit to arrive, is there any risk other than loosing a few mm of diesel fuel driving the van? Will the leak damage injectors?
It's not gushing out. I have smelled diesel fuel for the past 3 months and could not locate it until last weekend.
The kit is coming next week and I like driving the diesel van over my under powered 6 cylinder E150.
I want to clean out the EGR while I have everything apart. I have heard that some people just disconnect it. There is a write up about in the tech folder and it went way over my head.
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