Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Overheating / Stuck Thermostat?
Oct 19, 2012
I have a question regarding a overheating problem I have with my 99GLS V6. I had the dealer do a timing belt, water pump, thermostat etc on my Passat about a year ago. I also have coolant leak in the metal pipes under my intake, which I haven't had a chance to tend to yet. I noticed recently that my car overheats and there was alot of pressure built up in the hoses. If I remember correctly, the thermostats are designed to fail in the open position. So I am wondering because of the leak, what's the chances that my thermostat could have failed in the closed position? I'm hoping its just air in the system and lack of coolant is causing this. It's been more than a year so I'll have to cough up the dough for this one.
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I have a 2004 Honda Civic Lx and I was driving one day and I look down to see if I was speeding or not (easy to do) and I see that the thermostat is almost all the way to the red line. So I pull over to a store and check my fluids. The oil was low so I put two quarts in. There are no signs of leaks anywhere. I also topped off the coolant. Ever sense the care has been fine so could of it been the low fluids?
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My engine started overheating, and because I was stuck on a bridge during rush hour (George Washington Bridge in NYC), I couldn't get stop the car. I drove it for approximately 30 min (slow crawl), and this happened: [URL] .....
Yes, I know how stupid it is, but there was not even a shoulder to pull over to the side. The only good thing is that this happened pretty much soon as Igot off the bridge, and not on the bridge.
Hose by the radiator cap (is that the overflow hose?) popped out and spewed steam for good 5 minutes. The car did not start at this point. I left the car by the gas station after the bridge, and came back later on in the night. It started and I was able to drive it home (about 10 min away) at crawl speed without it reaching the red zone.
Today, I just did the oil change, topped off on the coolant, and also replaced the thermostat. But the engine still overheats (to the red). The upper radiator hose is burning hot and the bottom radiator hose is not. Also, the fan is working, but it blows out pretty hot air.
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I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
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So my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
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problem is the my 1998 Legacy (142K) overheated this past weekend. It shut off and I had it towed to a "new" mechanic around the corner from my house. He diagnosed the problem as being a faulty thermostat. He replaced the thermostat and returned the vehicle to me. Two days later my wife was driving home and the car had a major overheating incident with resulting serious mechanical failure. I did a little research and within about five minutes found that this problem is quite common for this car and is more commonly related to a head gasket issue. My question is should this mechanic be held responsible in any way for the misdiagnosed problem? If so, what would be the best course of action? The car was otherwise running fine and in fact I recently had the transmission rebuilt.
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Bought this truck at auction a few days ago. Started drive home and noticed temp gauge almost pegged full hot. Stopped and left it and pickup up later that day with trailer. Got home and started and ran it. Will not overheat at idle. Gauge fluctuates between full cold and 1/2 at idle. Rev up and temp drops to full cold. Drive around town under 35 and it stays between 1/2 and 3/4. Get on the highway and Pegs full hot. Replace thermostat and flushed system. Lots of rusty water and chunks of rust/mud poured out.
Upper rad hose is firm and hot. Lower rad hose is warm soft. Bypassed heater core and still over heats. I can run water hose from top hole on radiator and water crosses threw radiator and pours out the bottom so I don't think it's clogged. It's not the head gasket, I have no smoke, no milky oil and no oil in coolant. Fan clutch seems fine, I can spin it with the engine off and feel resistance. Truck hasnt boiled over while running hot so the gauge may be wrong. If it means anything the truck runs very rough and pulled up a misfire on cylinder #1 and had a iac code.
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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My son has a 2002 Jetta, we just changed the water pump and the thermostat. The car will sit at idle and the temperature will stay around 190. When you drive down the road the temerature will rise and when you let off teh gas the temperature goes back down. What this could be, I have tried everything I can think of to fix this car.
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My thermostat is stuck closed so it needs replacing. I searched and couldn't find a DIY but there was a thread that says you need to take the whole front end off?
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02 Camry 4 cyl.
If the thermostat ain't opening and is stuck shut, will the temperature gauge climb pretty quickly? right? I am in the process of flushing my radiator.
- I drained radiator, changed the T-stat with new OEM one and then filled with distilled water. (Ensured the jiggle valve is at 12 o clock)
- I idled the motor with cap off, heater on and purged the system of air... topped off with distilled water, waited till the fans came on etc...
- Temperature gauge reads in the normal range... even after 15 mile drive...
But, I expected the water to mix with old coolant left over and change color that hasn't happened... hence wondering.
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder and the thermostat seems to be stuck partial open. Gauge does not reach what was normal operating level before. Has not thrown P 0128 code yet. I was thinking changing the thermostat. When checking on replacement it shows 2 gaskets, one paper or rubber gasket with holes and an one o ring. Is this correct and if so where does each go when installed. Looking at the housing it does not look to be to hard a job.
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It's pretty cold these day where I live (about 2 weeks of -20C and lower). I know that winter can affect gas mileage but right now, I'm averaging about 13l/km (18mpg). I believe this is not normal.
I just bought the car and I noticed that the engine temp looks low to me (see pic attached). Is it supposed to run this cool? I also went to the garage and he checked with a obd2 scanner and nothing was wrong. Could a stuck thermostat be the cause of my poor gas mileage?
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If I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
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1)Reverse lights stay on all the time. Tranny is an automatic. The gearshift indicator in the dash works normally. Is it the tranny electrical switch thats bad?
2)Engine just started overheating. I know for a fact the belt to the water pump is loose. Whats the proper way to tighten up that belt? I know how to take the front off the car...just don't know how to tighten the water pump belt. Its the motor that has the separate water pump outside the block, AEB engine.
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So recently my car has been starting to over heat. not to the extreme but the temp needle is going past the middle. only happens when stuck in traffic but as soon as I start going it goes back down.
As far as iv noticed only thing getting me puzzled is my fans are not running when running and starting to overheat. they run when I shut the car off though. The radiator is less then a year old. fresh oil change and the coolant is fine
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My 2002 Jetta VR6 is overheating. The car only overheats when the car is not mobile. If I get stuck in straffic or just let it idle it will over heat. What could it be?
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I have automatic transmission VW Passat99 V6 and it gear is messing up. I am unable to shift my gear, it stuck in parking..car is running and even i can take the key out. The brake red icon still in parking mode even if i press the brakes it wont disappear by any cost.
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Yet another problem with my 2001 VW Passat V6 4Motion... This time it's the Thermostat.
My heat stopped working, and I brought it to the mechanic I always go to, and after a few hours of testing different pumps and hoses he's narrowed it down to the Thermostat. This is great it's only a 35 dollar part... BUT he says it takes a good 5-7 hours to replace due to the location. Is this true? He said the timing belt has to come off, which also means the bumper does...
He's not charging me labor for the initial diagnosis, since he didn't fix anything. (That's how he works), but I'm going to get charged for the 5-7 hours it takes to replace the Thermostat. My question is, is there an easier way to do this, or is 5-7 hours realistic?
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I have a 99 Passat 1.9 Automatic with door lock problems .The LR door is stuck in the shut position and the passenger doors front and rear can not be closed the latch doesn't hold the door close ,I have to tie them up with a rope to drive.The only one that works normally is the driver's door luckily. Where to start ?. If I force the lock knob on the Left rear door from inside goes back in and I can't open that door at all.
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Facts: 1999 Vw passat 1.8t
1 year ago, clutch pedal would not come up off the floor, no life in the pedal.
Problem: Clutch master cylinder, replaced.
6 months ago, clutch finally went bad. Took car to clutch shop, replaced clutch kit(found out after i payed that they only turned the dual-mass flywheel... ). Get car from clutch shop, the clutch pedal came up only 2-3 inches off the floor by itself but you could lift the pedal with your hand or foot, and it would come back up all the way, but it was life-less. It was not pulling fluid in. It was catching extremely low. I called the shop, they said that it was just because it was a new clutch and it would get better. I didn't believe them.
Two days ago, I got into my car and couldn't get it into gear. Clutch pedal would go down with the same amount of force as before. Took it back to the clutch shop and explained the history with the clutch master and then them doing the clutch kit. They said it wasn't bleeding properly and they're not sure if its going to have problems again. Car is working now, but I am concerned that it will have similar problems again.
The tech who fixed it said he pumped fluid into it extremely hard, and that's what made the pedal come up all the way (no longer stops 2 inches off the floor) and its going into gear just fine now. What the problem might have been? Block in the hydraulic lines? If this is the case, does forcing fluid through it fix it?
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