Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Loud Backfire While Down Shifting
Aug 23, 2013
OK about 3 months ago I bought my first vw, a 99 Passat 1.8t. Car was great. Only problem at the time was a loud backfire while down shifting no clue on y either. Let me say this is my first turboed car too. Anyway after about 2-3 days my cel came on. I threw my scanner on it and got evap leak. I filled her up right after that and smelled real bad gas. Found a screw hole in the trunk patched it cleared the code an she ran great again. Well for a few days now after every fill up I have to keep my foot on the throttle or it stalls out. Keep getting same code. Also when I go to jump on it it'll like studdar an hesitate before going. No more gas smell either. The kid I bought her from did some work an I'm getting 15lbs of boost but at times will jump to 17-18 lbs. I have no problem doing the work to get just need some guidance on what to do. I've been told change charcoal canister, fuel filter charcoal canister purge valve, I guess there's 2 cause I was told to change both. I love this car, this is the best and my favorite car I've ever had. J wanna get her all nice and healthy.
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1991, F-250, automatic, 150,000 miles, two tanks. Used mostly for towing an RV plus some pleasure. Not in daily use. A month ago I parked it and a few days later cranked it up and found it wouldn't run over thirty MPH. There was some high pitched backfire in the engine compartment and the trans. wouldn't shift. I parked it and the next day it wouldn't start. When I turned the key on the fuel pumps (either tank) ran continuously. Towed to a garage (I am not a Mechanic). They have replaced the fuel pressure control, checked all pressures and it still won't run right. The problem is intermittent. My tranny man said the trans was good. My mechanics don't know what to do. I bought it in 1998.
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I have a 2002 bettle with about 150k on it. was running fine and one day while the wife was driving it she heard a loud pop/bang and it started missing and has low power. Starts fine just dosent have much power and is missing on one cylinder.
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I own a 1988 Camaro Iroc-Z with a 5.7 350 TPI motor. I was driving the car onto I-95 at a speed of 65 when I heard a loud boom under my car, and pulled over to see what had happened. I couldn't see what happened, so I drove the car slowly to a friends garage to find the exhaust pipe from the converter back to the muffler had split and blew apart. I took my car to another shop to repair the pipe, but when I left the shop after the repair, I accellerated to about 40 mile per hour, I get another loud backfire and loss of power. The pipe is still intact, but I cannot figure out what is causing the backfire. My friend from the first garage says it is a failing fuel pump. I never heard of such a thing to be honest.I am at a loss and I have to correct the issue soon, as this is my only car to drive.
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I have a mkv r32 turbo. It had C2 910cc software, car ran great. I had to change to UM 870cc software and injectors in order to get UM dsg stage 3 tune. I had it out for test ride, ran nicely for 2 miles. Then i started to increase throttle, a loud back fire, so i pulled over. It stalled, i restarted it, ran for about 5 secs at 14.5 afr, then sputtered to 10s afr, the stalled out completely.
Had it towed home, all 6 plugs were black. VCSD mobile log states multiple misfire and misfire #6. I put new plugs and switched coil packs, same issue.
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My 99 5-speed Ranger sometimes makes a loud squeal when shifting up. Sounds like a belt slipping. It's intermittent and annoying, and has been there forever. The truck has less than 50k on it. Seems like it does this most when upshifting from 2 to 3, and never from 1 to 2 or 4 to 5.
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So, I was driving down the road one day at like 50mph or so and had the loudest backfire I've ever heard. As I was putting my car on the dolly to tow home I heard a bunch of rattling and thought maybe it was a rod bearing or something. I pulled the oil pan and found chunks of my upper chain guide (rod bearings were fine).
I replaced the chain guide and checked the timing hoping it would fix the problem, but it didn't. The rattling was gone but I was only running on 3 cylinders. Did a compression check and had 0 compression in Cyl5 and about 60-70 in Cyl2. I don't remember exactly what the compression was for the other cylinders since it was a while ago.
Started thinking it was bent valves, so I just recently pulled the head off to check them. They all looked like they were seating properly and none looked bent from what I could tell. I'm about to try to put some compressed air through it to see if the valves are leaking anywhere. the plugs, wires, and coilpack are all functioning properly.
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Wanted to ask B6 owners first, from time to time I hear what I think is a backfire after doing a hard pull in 3rd but never in 2nd. Now I'm not sure its a backfire but after I shift to 4th I hear a small pop from the back of the wagon. Don't know if this will happen in 4th after a pull, have not had enough road or balls to do this. ( In Oregon you get a huge ticket and license pulled for 30 days for anything over 100.) Everything runs fine, I only have the Neuspeed intake for the autos and thats it. Any thoughts you B6 owners have B4 I go to the 2.0 fsi page would be great. Here are some pics from the big snow storm we had here in Portland back during xmas. The Thule chains worked great when I was not high centered.
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New truck 11000kms ago thats done medium amount of work but nothing heavy or sustained for long periods of time. I get the feeling of clutches slipping especially when truck is cold but also when normal temps. Doesnt make any weird noises or anything. I can really notice the difference in torque if in manual mode being much better, but still not perfect if i stomp on the gas pedal and go through the gears in manual mode will still slip. Also is really harsh shift if i come to a halt in 3rd manual mode with the brake pedal depressed push minus button the truck makes very loud clunk noise into gear 2 then 1. Took it to ford they couldnt find anything ? Thinking of trying another dealer.
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Looking for a good diagram of the complete vacuum system on the AEB 1.8t 99 passat. I am throwing a 1136 code which is indicated as a "Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering". I recently finished a complete rebuild and engine is finally back in but running in limp mode. During the rebuild, I used mobil 1 synthetic as an assembly lube for all internal components including valve train.
I immediately wet fouled O2 sensors and spark plugs. After repeated removal and cleaning for plugs and O2 sensors i have progressed beyond seeing the "wet" fouling but plugs are still very rich, black in color but dry. Engine starts and runs at idle(lumpy) consistently and will run for as much as 5 minutes but very rich. If i rev engine to 3000-3500 rpm it will "POP" or backfire and immediately stall.
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What would cause a 1999 jeep cherokee 4 liter inline 6 to backfire every now and then.
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I picked up a Automatic 1999 Passat V6 with 15k on it and if I let the car sit out all night the car doesn't wanna shift outta 1st gear in the morning. Its fine if I let the car warm up 5 minutes but any earlier it has to think about it...
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My passat is a 1.8t automatic with roughly 170k on it and lately i have been encountering some issues with the tranny. I have had this problem for a while and as of late it seems to be getting worse (especially with the AC on????). After driving up a hill the car seems to have difficulties shifting into the next gear on its own, typically 2nd to 3rd but sometimes 1st to 2nd, sometimes I even have to switch over to the triptronic and up shift manually.
Also when i am driving along in 4th or 5th and encounter a hill the car doesn't want to downshift on its own without giving it some pedal play, or sometimes I have to play the same game and switch over to the triptronic and downshift manually (hoping to save to tourqe converter). I dont know much about the tranny on this car, but i do know that their not cheap!
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I have a 1999 Mercury Mountaineer 5.0L V8. It just recently began acting up. After warming up the engine goes through heavy power loss and inability to climb ANY hill. Usually cannot get above 30-35. I just recently replaced plugs and wires for a tune up and a faulty coil pack (approximately 5-6 weeks ago) causing a misfire on 8. Today in troubleshooting I attempted the "Backyard Mechanic" trick of unplugging the MAF sensor and took it down the road, no change at all in acceleration issues or on idle, truck runs the same. Unable to spot any exhaust or vacuum leaks or issues, recently cleaned MAF housing and changed Air Filter as well. All of these issues arose after a heavy ice storm, do not know if this had any impact or was just bad timing.
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I posted a few days ago about my 99 Passat Wagon getting stuck in 1st and then suddenly (with a lurch) shifting into second after a few blocks of driving. After three weeks of investigation my mechanic, who is a VW certified mechanic, changed the Transmission Input Speed Sensor Assembly (automatic transmission) but a day later the problem continued.
I've now discovered that when I shake the gear shift between neutral and drive, it jumps into gear. I'm taking it back tomorrow (10-15-07). What is this?
When I called him last week after his repairs didn't work he started talking about replacing the entire transmission which scares the heck out of me. Every other gear seems fine after getting out of first and I really don't want to spend thousands of dollars because his diagnostic won't register the real problem.
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On the way home today upon medium acceleration I heard a pop kinda like a backfire ......now black smoke pours out on acceleration.no much in line of power either. Hoping I haven't screwed the motor ...
6.0 ltr turbo diesel 2004 f-350 super duty crew cab 4x4 ....
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Started my truck this morning. 2000 F350, V10, 153000 on the clock. Immediately sounded like a shotgun went off under the hood, now it sounds like it's running a cutoff exhaust. Had a tiny manifold tick prior to this, but can it backfire hard enough to crack/destroy the manifold?
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I was driving my bosses f550 with a 7.3, and while towing a loaded 40' flatbed of hay, it started bloing white smoke and lost all power and had almost no pedal feel. It wouldnt even go past 2500 RPM. Then, all of a sudden, it started billowing black, and BOOM backfired and shot flames out the exhaust. Then, I pulled over at a parts store and replaced the fuel filter, which worked for a while, but then it started blowing white smoke again. Once I limped it home and unhooked it, I took it out and let her rev a bit and it seemed to stop blowing smoke, but it still has less than the normal power it used to have. It has 226000 miles and is completely stock.
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When driving there is a loud rattling noise coming from the exterior of the car but when I put on the brakes the noise stops. I'm not sure if its a brake shoe or some other cause...
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I know it will get a little notchy when its cold out, but shifting from 1st to 2nd is really notchy, and the shift box is pretty loud on that shift. I don't think its a trans issue, the noise seems like its only in the shift box. and goes away after 5-10 minutes or so, but it seems a bit excessive, especially for a new car. Car has 3500 miles on it, and has been doing this pretty much the whole time on cold starts.
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Whenever I start my 99 passat a really loud vacuum noise is heard. along with the noise the engine idles higher than normal. when the noise goes away after a couple minutes it idles at the normal speed again... what the problem is?
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