Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Less Movement In Drivetrain When Accelerating
Apr 10, 2008
OK. I have done some searching and see that there are a few different options for motor, trans, and snub mounts. I am going to have them all replaced on my 99 1.8T wagon that currently has 130K with a manual trans. The only mods so far are Meyle HD control arms and 16" rims with Continental Extreme Contact Tires. I am looking for less movement in the drivetrain when accelerating and I want to get more power to the wheels. I am looking for an upgrade from OEM but do not need something track stiff. I care more about handling and performance than I do noise and vibration. But my wife also drives this car so it can not be ridiculous. I am thinking of the RS4 mounts mostly because they are an "OEM" upgrade. Which mounts do you like and WHY? Cost is not a factor.
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I want to reduce engine movement when accelerating, so is is good enough to get the ECS Dogbone Mount Kit With Stretch Bolts or should i get the ECS Tuning Ultimate Dogbone Mount Kit which includes the dogbone itselft?
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2007 3.6 Wagon Sport. My wife has the 18" Samarklan wheels and automatic transmission. We have complained to the dealer since the beginning with only the "you need new tires" response. Well we got new tires last year and the noise was the same. I've had 18" on my old '00 S4 and current '00 A8 with nothing near this amount of noise.
The sound is most like a groan and doesn't seem to be coming from the engine. It's seem most noticeable at lower speeds coming/coasting to a stop, but does not seem to vary with or without braking. It doesn't seem to vary based on turning either.
I don't ride in her car much, but am always shocked how loud it is when I do, as it's so dramatically louder. Also the HVAC 'percolates' constantly which is generally only noticeable at idle. This is a small, secondary concern. I everyone's Passat really this loud?
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My Passat is a 2006 v6 and I am having a problem with the power seat. They seem to have a life of their own. Can I just disconnect the wiring?
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I have a 04 F350 srw , 6.8 . Recently developed loud whine from the rear . I had the differential (10.5 sterling ) completely rebuilt . It quieted way down . But I still had a couple of high pitched whines . Took it back and had the rebuilder ride with me . At first he couldn't hear it ( it can be faint but gets louder under a load , I pull a 40' trailer and didn't have it with me), when he finally started hearing it he said it might be a planetary making a little noise, just watch it . So I made a short run (450miles RT) . Same noises but I noticed that sometimes when I stopped and got fuel , it would quiet down for 50 or so miles . I got to thinking maybe it could be a rear wheel bearing going bad and the sound transferring through the axle to the drive line . It only did it accelerating ( before and after rebuild ) and got louder going up a hill .
Today I drove it in to town and parked it ( still the same ) and a couple of hours later after a cold front came through ( maybe 10 Deg. temp change) I got in and the noise was about 90% gone , but at 45 to 60 mph. it vibrates . Let off the gas , vibrates ,, Put it in neutral- vibrates, revved the engine in neutral - vibrates and no change from rpm diff. . As long as its rolling between 45-60 , it vibrates . Hit the brakes- vibrates.. I have had 3 mechanics check it out ( 2 good ones and one that the other 2 take what they cant figure out ). Left them all scratching their heads. Checked the driveline and I changed one U joint (prior to the short run ). All seems tight .
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I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
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Drivetrain noise I cannot diagnose. I have a 2002 F350 diesel and have noticed over the past couple thousand miles a noise from the drivetrain that is hardtop identify. It is not brake related ( new and unaffected by brake application) and not rpm related. Most noticeable at around 50mph. Not tires and they are new and noise persists.
Front end has been apart for new hubs, brakes, rotors, wheel bearings. Noise continues. It has an oscillating quality and is somewhat like a lower pitch whine which gets more prominent as speed increases. Wondering about bearings associated with drive shafts? Are there some things I can check underneath to diagnose the issue?
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From the first day i bought this car i had a strange noise coming under the hood. Every time i leave my car for at least 2 hours parked and then started, when i do a few meters i hear a noise like a hydraulic valve comes in place and my brake pedal does a small movement. After that everything is normal.
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Will move if n 4low and give some rpm's. Reverse is fine, disassembled and clutches look fine.
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I have a 1999 Passat 1.8t manual transmission... My car shakes like it's going to stall and sometimes actually stalls when I come near to a complete stop. The car drives really bad... it jerks when downshifting and on accelerating... The performance of the car is crap. also When i put the car into neutral and coast to a stop, the revs will bounce up and down. I posted a couple months ago about this problem and I was told to clean the throttle body. I then cleaned my throttle body and replaced the gasket. This problem went away for about 5 days and then was back again. This problem is the worse when I go to school, which is when it's about 45 degrees outside.
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With my A/C turned up on max A/C and fan speed set on highest setting, I get very little air movement through the air vents. I have been told that starting with 2000 year models, there is a filter on the A/C fan motor. If this is true, I am sure mine needs to be changed. Looking for procedure/schematics for removal and change.
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Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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I have a 2005 F250 6.0.. I'm the third owner, only 146,000 miles on it. Had most of the front end replaced. Ball joints, tie rod ends, track bar bushing, front end alignment done...
Still likes to walk as I call it side to side while driving down the road. Factory size tires, factory rims. A little excessive movement in steering wheel while driving, side to side and not transferring to pitmen arm. So I think the gear box shot. Got to looking closer and the power steering box has a re-manufactured sticker on it, so thought about rebuilding it. I do not know where previous owner got gear box at.
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I've been chasing this for longer then i can remember. At 40-45mph the rear end feels like its bouncing. no movement from the steering wheel, just a pulsating bounce. Little information about the truck: Has had Napa Gold shocks, Bilstein 5100s and currently Monroe reflex shocks. Installed readylift 4inch rear block kit about 2 years ago. Had 16x9 rims, currently has factory 16x6.5. Tires are 285/75s. New pads rotors and calipers. It's just driving me nuts to have it bounce all the time.
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Should there be any play on the backside offront hubs (knuckle)? When I grab the knuckle where the sticker is theres alittle bit of wiggle/play especially on left side, little less on right. The truck is 2009 and has only 11,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2008 F250 5.4 4x4 supercab long box (68,000 miles) that has a little bit of movement in the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Made it through inspection OK but it will need to be changed soon. Just asking for everyone's thoughts on brands they prefer. I have had great luck with Moog brand products in the past. I put SKF hubs on my wife's 2010 Explorer and they I would say are top quality also. Not interested in a conversion kit or cheap junk. I want a good quality unit. What brand has everyone had good results with? Are Moog or SKF the way to go?
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I have 2004 Ford, thought it needed injectors because it was struggling hard almost a side to side movement. Had a friend recommend replacing the FICM, did that now it stumbles, less often, less movement like it's muted. I noticed it again yesterday after hard breaking, but also really likes to do it in heavy traffic.
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Just noticed when driving home tonight that it feels as though there is some kind of slack in the drivetrain when shifting from 5th to 4th under load. I thought it might be the driveshaft is loose but it doesn't seem to happen from 3rd to 2nd or 4th to 3rd.I have always felt like the trans on the car felt weird (hard to change form 1st to 2nd under full load) but this is different...
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I recently noticed squeaks and some vibration on my drivetrain and to my surprise i must change my axles... now i have looked around and pricing is between 300 and 400$ for each (passenger and driver side) this was at ECStuning and UroTuning. both say its a genuine VW part. front axle 1.8t 6speed gli....
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I have 70,000 miles and this weird rattling somewhere in front, probably drivetrain, only audible at 60-70 mph, medium load, so no pinging. worse on high speed right turns, like highway entrance, and in this circumstance audible at about 50mph.
I recently did cleaning of intake manifold, EGR pipe, and TB and an oil change and no change. The noise is totally absent in city/suburb style of driving with speeds up to 50mph. what could that be? It's clearly getting worse. could it be connected to the CV clicking noise i have at slow speeds?
I searched some more and there are few threads about noise that sounds like pinging, but doesn't behave like pinging. no resolution except for the standard advice about higher octanes and gas additives:
-Engine ping under load
-Higher octane gas for fuel pinging
-Engine pinging
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I was wondering if 1979 Dodge Vans had regular 727 transmissions, or 727 with lock ups? I was told that Chrysler switched to the lock-ups in mid year. How to confirm this? I was also told that if you use a trans on a 318 that had a lock up it would cause a vibration in the drive train at high speeds, and might damage seals in the engine and trans.
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