Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Intermittent Starter / Does Not Always Crank Over
Apr 10, 2012
I have a '99 Passat with the 1.8T and auto trans. that does not always crank over, when you go to start it. Most of the time it cranks over and starts just fine, but there are times when you turn the key to the "start" position and nothing happens. Sometimes you have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to start and other times just holding the key in the "start" position for a few seconds and it will start.
I've checked the starter and every time that I applied 12 volts to the terminal 50 at the starter, it worked, but if I go back to start it with the key it goes back to random cranking. I removed the ignition switch and bench tested that with an ohmmeter and it works every time. Do I have something going on with the Starter Interlock Relay?
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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So months ago, my wife reported the starter wouldn't crank, but after a few tries it did and the car started right up, no issues since then. I figured she didn't push the clutch in far enough.
Two weeks ago, the car threw a code for the Cam position sensor and was making some funky noises (hard to describe, almost like a rattle inside/beneath the engine) and started bouncing at idle. I replaced that within a few days and cleared the code, but the noise persisted as well as the idle (but not all the time).
Then last week it was still ratting around with no codes, but died on the highway and had to get it towed home. It would turn over, but wouldn't start. After fiddling a while and trying to start it a bunch, it would no longer turn over, so I figured the battery didn't have enough juice. Trying to jump it, I got sparks like you wouldn't believe. I actually started a small fire, and I hooked up the cables correctly too! I checked all the cables, made sure I was doing it correctly and tried again, same thing. So then I researched and saw that can be caused by a failing battery. Sure enough, the battery was 7 years old, so I went and replaced it. Still no start.
A few days later, checking more at home, it had spark, I can hear the fuel pump turn on, timing belt is in good shape, and the throttle is opening (electronically controlled). Still confused I bought a HEX+CAN and here's the results for Engine:
3 Faults Found:
16497 - Intake Air Temp. Sensor (G42): Signal too High
P0113 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent
17951 - Angle Sensor 1 for Throttle Actuator (G187): Signal too Small
P1543 - 35-00 - -
17580 - Angle Sensor 2 for Throttle Actuator (G188) Signal too Low
P1172 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0110 1101
So after taking apart the throttle to check it to make sure that it indeed was opening like the vag-com said it was, I put it back together and now the car won't crank. Well, I've been testing it for a while, so I figured the new battery was starting to get low, so I went to jump it and I almost started another little fire. The jumper wires heat up like crazy too. Their is no continuity between the negative and positive terminals on the battery, so I'm not sure what's going on.
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I have been struggling with an intermittent no crank situation. I finally got stuck and crawled under the car and found the wire to the solenoid has been repaired (poorly) 2X in the past. Is it possible to get this harness as a spare part? And if so, how can I find the part number? 2012 Passat 2.5 SE
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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2015 F350 6.2, 4 door 8' bed FX4...... 17,200 miles.
This morning when outside to start it (nice sunny morning) and turned the key and all the dash lights went on and also went crazy. Said it had all kind of problems on the dash, Trac system, Over heating and so on. The starter did not crank over at all. Tried this about 8 times in 45 minutes, no worky. Call Ford, they towed it to the dealer. I last drove it 2 days ago. All stock, no programmer.
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Got 01 F350, 7.3
Started having issues with starter bogging down my batteries. Slow crank, it would catch anyway and runs great. I have spare used starter in the garage, threw that on and it cranks fast, but occasionally just free spins half way thru the cranking.
My question is, can I make one good starter from these two? Monday AM buyer is coming to get my truck, and I don't want to have to buy brand new starter if I can avoid it, but I want him to have reliable used starter.
What causes free spinning (not flex plate related), and what causes power drag and slow crank? I was thinking throw solenoid from fast starter onto slow one, since slow one doesn't spin out but it bogs down my voltage?
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way I can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood.
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I have an 02 F250 6.8 with 51,000 miles on it. I recently replaced the battery about a week ago, and only actually drove it yesterday for the first time since replacing the battery. I drove it about 25 miles, parked, and when I went to restart, it wouldn't. The starter doesn't crank, so I mean its not a cranking issue as in cranking, and not starting. It only clicks at the relay when turning the key. It acts like when you try to use a wrong chip coded key.
All of the dash lights came on, and I can hear the relay clicking, but that's it. I swapped the relays around, and no luck. If I let it sit a while, about an hour, it will fire right up. The battery cables are tight and free of corrosion. I am curious, since I just put in a new battery, could this be the culprit? Why will it start fine cold, but not hot? I have NEVER had an issue with this truck until now.
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I have a 2005 f-250 King Ranch 5.4 triton engine...my problem occurs when i turn the key to start the pickup....i get a clicking sound and then nothing....when i use a portable jump starter, it fires right up...on the other hand, when i try to jump from a running vehicle i only get a clicking sound from the starter...
not sure what i should be testing...also, when i bought the vehicle it had been sitting for several months...for my test drive, they used a commercial charger/starter to fire the truck...i drove it about 10 miles, stopped, turned off the motor and 10 minutes later it wouldn't start...when i contacted the owner, he drove to me and "reset" the kill switch under the fuse box in the cab and then jump started the truck...
I drove it 40 miles home and for 4 days had no starting issues...on day 5 forward, i have had to use the portable jump starter every time...my battery shows 13 amps resting and drops to 5 amps when i try to start without portable jump starter...when i start it with the portable jump starter, it only drops to 10 amps...
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1999 XTL 4.0 auto, was doing fine, replaced Interior light bulb, now wont crank over!!! i suspect the anti theft system... how do i fix or ByPass the security system, i can start the truck by Manually engaging the starter Relay under the hood.
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2002 F450 7.3 Turbo
Ok first problem : Starter Motor fuse kept blowing and I spent weeks trying to figure it out. No luck. so wired up a push button just to get the truck started, its a work truck so it was needed asap.
2nd problem : he truck stopped starting completely. Wont start in Park or neutral and after a NEW STARTER (because I thought the solenoid on the starter was bad I replaced it) Everything work correctly for one start with the key. After the second time trying to start it blew the starter fuse again. So I tried the straight wiring to starter. still nothing. I was wondering if there are any shims or anything at the transmission housing to correctly position the starter. I am thinking that maybe the gear is stuck or gets stuck sometimes. when I straight wire the starter it does nothing but the wire gets hot so I know its pulling.
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Anyway, I went out to start my truck just now and I'm getting a weird symptom.
The truck gets partial revolution and then to me it seems like the starter bendix pulls back in prematurely and this nasty clank and then a slight "zing". all within a second.
If I try a few more times, it seems to fire. But all the attempts before it fires sound pretty nasty to me.
Does this sound like a symptom of a bad starter/bendix?
A little further history, my excursion was broken into several years ago and they stole my pioneer head unit, in doing so, they forced the shifter down and since then it has been a little "loose". I'm wondering if it could be a neutral safety switch on the transmission?
Anyway, I'm getting ready to order a new neutral safety switch but wondering if I should go ahead a purchase a new starter as well?
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I did a bunch of reading before I bought this truck, and the seller said it really just needed a new battery as far as he could tell... When I bought it, I drove a considerable distance with no problems, other than it seeming to be a little sluggish with acceleration.
I have not seen any leaks anywhere, and all of the visible reservoirs appear to be nominal. No odd exhaust (really clean/invisible, in fact). No weird sounds, and running engine has a pretty even sounding cadence.
I initially changed all of the shocks because the old ones appeared to be original and were severely corroded/rusted. There is some surface rust elsewhere as this truck was apparently used in agricultural setting.
I replaced the battery and it was starting fine for a few weeks, but it would intermittently crank with no start, and would sometimes die within a few minutes after starting. I also charged the a/c with 134a, and it is blowing cold.
So... yesterday, I changed the oil, and installed a Fram Tough-Guard filter and precisely 15 quarts of oil (dipstick shows right level). I also changed the air filters, and disassembled and reassembled the air-cleaner to turbo hoses. While the hoses were disassembled, I took off the relays (AIH/GPR) and reinstalled an aftermarket GPR (crappy foreign-made one). No start. Several times. I reinstalled the original GPR. No start. Several times.
Even tried to jump it from my running Explorer. Still no start. (When I say no start, I mean that it will crank, but not turn over).
I am scheduled to take this truck into the dealership tomorrow for the recall issues (CPS), but I can't drive it there right now. Did I mess something up with the crappy GRP? Why wouldn't it start after reinstalling the original?
Another observation -- I had my batteries tested just now, and they are around 60%. I have ordered a new Alternator because this one looks original and is likely not charging the batteries. Still, I figured if I jumped it, it would start.
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This has happened only 4 times in the last 4 years till about a month ago. (happened twice in 2 days). With key on i get the glow plug light and CEL on but no power to the pump (FASS) and obviously no fuel pressure. it will crank, but nothing on the tach. I've tried plugging in a scanner and it doesn't make a connection with the pcm. all lights work and gauges work (tach and speedo are at zero obviously)...
Before I couldn't pin down when it happened due to being so intermittent. But the last two times it has happened it was when I started it and drove somewhere close before it was at full operating temp. (and in retrospect the previous times was a similar situation). She'll start fine cold, and when at operating temp.
When it happens I pull the battery cables let it set. Reconnect and within a few tries works fine. PCM going bad? Is there a sensor I need to check? New motor has about 25k on it.
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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My wife has been telling me our '01 E-350 (Econoline) with 7.3 is taking several attempts to start in the mornings, like it's not even trying to fire. It will crank like wild but no fire and then it will fire usually and sometimes run a little rough but no always.
Tonight she called me from across town and it won't start at all, cranks like wild but won't start, chug or anything.
The WTS light is working fine, the truck runs great and idles smooth all other times, just been giving grief when starting in the mornings (warm outside 70 degree plus ambient temp). I haven't had the truck do it to me but she has explained it well enough.
I do get a SES light for overboost when I run it hard (PHP tuned) but it always goes away and hasn't caused any issues. Could this be the ICP acting like this? If so, is it true that I can just unplug it and the truck will start by using default pressure?
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5.4L... So like many this winter, I had an intermittent crank no start issue. Thought it to be fuel related, based on low fuel pressure readings.
Now all new - battery, iac, cam sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, air filter. Cleaned maf, temp sensor and throttle body. Engine starts, but I don't know if the problem is solved.
Fuel pressure is 40 with key on, falls to 35 on start-up, (which seems ok) but then after a few seconds, the pressure drops to 26 where it seems to want to stay. Hitting throttle hard makes it fall to about 20. I can't find any leaks in the fuel lines. Truck seems to run fine while driving.
To me, this doesn't seem good. Engine is not throwing any codes, but the ST fuel trim is running 0 to +3, and as high as +9 on occasion.
Does the consistent drop to 26 sound normal? Should I dig more into it, or just forget about it since truck seems to be running fine?
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. The starter does not crank at all. I put the key in and turn it and nothing, just a click. I have replaced the starter/solenoid with a new one and I have charged the battery and it is good (battery is only 8 months old). It still does not crank, nothing.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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Removed battery cables and held together to clear ECU ... Re-attached and no crank not even a click ...
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