Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Intermittent Heater Fault While Driving
Dec 17, 2008
I have a 1999 1.8t 20v sport passat and the heater will sometimes come on while driving along and other times it wont come on at all ?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 1.8t 20v sport passat and the heater will sometimes come on while driving along and other times it wont come on at all ?
View 5 RepliesGot the CEL Bank 1 Sensor 2 heater circuit fault. Is that the rear right post-cat oxygen sensor? What is correct part number or possibly a link? 2002 2.8l Passat V6...
View 3 RepliesLast week, temps. dropped so tried heat on `02 GLX few months out of warranty. took to dealer (concerned with locals and the VW climate control), dealer said clogged heater core, they asked if it had overheated (no), $1500
VW kicked in $500. nice weather when I picked it up, next door cold, turned on heat, but there was none. took it back to dealer, they said it was an air bubble and said they "bled" the system, and viola, had heat in 1/2 hour. Worked fine for couple of hours. Couple of hours later, again no heat.
Any clue? Did the dealer know what they're doing? Did I get ripped? Can others work on the VW climate control or is it related to the actual mechanics of the heater?
For several months, my 2004 VW Passat (1.8L Turbo FWD) has been making an intermittent squeal while driving. The noise is brief (lasting usually a fraction of a second), is loud, screechy and high-pitched (like a belt slipping), sounds as if it's originating from the rear passenger's-side area, and always occurs just after I begin to drive after being stopped at a light or stop sign. It occurs most frequently when I make a left turn (never a right turn) and sometimes when proceeding without a turn. When it's heard while driving straight, it's accompanied by a momentary hesitation in speed, but whether this is just engine hesitation or active deceleration I cannot tell. The problem began in the fall of 2011, stopped during the cooler months (I live in southwest Florida), and began again once ambient temperatures climbed again into the 80's. It usually occurs once or twice per day (but some days not at all) and typically in the afternoons when the air temperatures are warmer. I never hear it when the brakes are applied, and the brakes do not squeal. The noise is not accompanied by any dashboard warning lights.
My local VW dealership claimed that the cause was rusty rotors (as I had recently moved to FL from New England), and I spent several hundred dollars having the rotors replaced, only to have the problem reoccur as I was leaving the dealership's parking lot. I now have an independent mechanic who has been road-testing the car for several days and has heard the squeal once but is puzzled as to its cause. There is no uneven brake wear to suggest that the calipers are being applied unevenly. About 2 months ago, when the squealing noise was absent in the winter months, my mechanic removed a 6mm piece of aggregate which had become lodged beneath the vacuum plate of the rear driver's-side brake assembly. However, a month later, the squeal returned as before. My mechanic is truly puzzled and at this time can only suggest having the rear brakes and calipers replaced.
I have an 07 6speed MT w/ 82K on the clock. Today it was snowing on the ride home and I noticed a few occasions where the car felt like it was bucking for just a split second. No warning lights came on at any time. The RPMs and speed never changed when it bucked. I was driving between 35 - 55 MPH when it was occurring in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear. No correlation to accelerating, decelerating, or coasting on highway that I could figure out.
Given that the snow was covering even the treated road surfaces, I suspected it might be connected to the ESP, so I turned it off for a while. Still happened.
I didn't notice any abnormal engine noises and it was fine on my ride to work in dry conditions earlier in the day.
I haven't had any work done on it recently and I am getting the 80K service done next week. It has no engine mods done at all. All stock.
Could it have been the tires slipping on wet spots? But happening so quickly the traction light never came on? Or should I look for other issues in the engine?
I have just joined, and posted as below, not sure where it went though so here it is again. As I suspect with many others newbies I am posting to try and solve a problem. I have a 2005 Hyundai Accent diesel (with only 54000 on the clock) which worked OK for over a year. I now has an intermittent starting fault. It played up in the winter, fiddled with the fuel filter and was OK for months, also had it serviced beginning of year. It then played up again a few times recently so had the fuel filter changed. Now worse than ever! This model does not have glow plugs, apparently a fuel heater. If starts 1st time works perfectly. Otherwise it can take up to 10 times to start. Seems no particular circumstances. Usually starts from cold but I do a lot of stop start driving. Took back to local garage and they couldn't get it not to start! Started ok 3 times this morning only to stop on the 4th. I fiddle with the fuel filter and connections and it goes, but this could be pure co-incidence?
View 2 RepliesI am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid I bought the car from had an alternator put in. I see a terminal closest to the front of the car on the alternator that has no thick wire attached to it and when I was at the junkyard they had wires connected to them. I cleaned all other grounds on the car that I can access so I think that could be the issue but I don't know where the wire should lead to and how the alternator should be grounded!
View 1 RepliesSeems like issues with my 06 prius battery are back, however this time it is rather strange but very predictable. I cannot read any trouble code as the red triangle on the dash (and "problem" on the display) never stays on more than a few seconds (1-5 seconds at most).
At first it was doing this only after long downhill driving (like my 1.5 mile downhill street at 25 mph) - charging the battery and once getting to the last green bar I would get a Bip, red triangle and "problem" on the display. This has been going on for 4 weeks roughly.
But it's gradually getting worse, the same symptoms would appear after shorter downhill driving. And now it does almost every time I get the foot of the accelerator (assuming the car has decent momentum to regenerate).
I am guessing a module is starting to fail but last time I had a failed block, it didn't do that. One day I got the red triangle along with a bunch of other lights and that was it.
I have a 1999 Honda Accord 4 cylinder w/ manual transmission that will intermittently kill while driving. Obviously its distressing, but its been a couple months in between incidents, so its hard to take it seriously, because the car will operate normally for long periods of time, but when it kills, especially on the freeway, it can be frightening.
Luckily the car will start again - pop it into neutral and turn the key, stick it back in 5th gear, and keep driving. Previously, but not lately, from a cold start the car would start up briefly (1 second or so), then kill, and if then if you crank it again it would start right up. Not sure how it relates to the issue while driving, but it could be relevant.
I have heard it might be the fuel pump going bad slowly. Not sure on this, haven't replaced anything there yet (cost/time)I have heard it could be an electrical relay (can't remember the exact name) but I did replace that, and still having the issue.
My 2014 Super Duty, the accessory delay relay is starting to acted up. When driving my instrument cluster and heater/AC will cut-out momentarily once in awhile. I guess Ford has known about this problem for years and hasn't done anything to fix this known problem in their Super Duties. My truck is almost out of warranty and I guess to fix the accessory delay relay is to replace the whole instrument cluster with a new one with the same defective part. Of course, the accessory delay relay will never acted up a the dealership because it's totally random. Plus, I don't trust the incompetent people who work at my local dealership to do a good job on tearing out my trucks interior and to get it back together like factory. I'm at a loss.
View 10 RepliesSo I picked up a 337 a little while ago, which I absolutely love, but there are some fault codes I have to deal with. Pretty sure I took care of the ABS hydraulic pump code. The ABS and ASR light came on after driving in some snow, but I found a thread about that, cleaned the fuses and the light is no longer on.
The following are the problems I am experiencing while driving the car:
I am seeming to have a power drop in 1st gear at low rpms. I have never driven a turbo'd car but I don't believe this is just turbo lag. It isn't a quick increase in power, rather a brief decrease, sort of like it's bogging down. I thought it was just me at first, but I have noticed it too many times and my gf even noticed it. I am not sure if this is related, but I thought I would mention it.
On occasion the dash lights will flash off then back on and reset my trip odo and clock. This has been happening more frequently as of late. It normally happens when I turn the lights on, or switch the brights on. The engine has completely turned off once at a stop light. I am currently searching all the codes online and am hoping to find a solution, but I am definitely concerned.
Also the AC/heater controls dials lights are out (just the three dials), and the 12v power outlet is not working. I tried switching the fuse but it isn't that. Thought this might connected. Final bit of info, the instrument cluster had a problem and was replaced by a dealer on November 29th. I don't know much more about it, I bought it right after that was done. Here are the actual fault codes.
Address 01: Engine
Labels: 06A-906-032-AWP.lbl
Part No: 06A 906 032 ML
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT G 0001
Coding: 07510
[Code] ....
Just started the truck after not running for a few weeks and drove around fine. Looked down and suddenly a CEL was indicated. Checked it with my Edge Evolution diagnostic mode and Code P0161 came up 2nd bank downstream heater circuit fault. I've also have an exhaust leak in the right passenger side exhaust manifold for about the last year. I've been waiting to install my newer 03' used engine when time and funds permit.
View 3 Replies2002 ... I've been getting a soft engine fault all three lights on and reduced power. This usually occurs if I accelerate hard but also happens if I take a small pot hole in the front, a little bump seems to trigger it as well. Also engine resets to normal after removing key.
It's not logging the fault as had dealer read ECU and said was not logged.
I bought a used 2011 Ford Escape Ltd. which now has 21000 miles on it. The tire pressure sensor indicated a tire was low (it was), and I filled it. Now I intermittently get a message of "Tire pressure sensor fault." The dealer checked it when they changed the oil but it's still coming on, usually when I'm at high speed. It goes off again by itself. Is it important for me to do something?
View 5 RepliesI've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
What can be done regarding these faults? P0037 and P0057
Description:
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1, Sensor 2)
Oxygen Sensor Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2, Sensor 2)
The catalytic converters have been removed but the fault was present before that anyway. All I want is the VSC function to work again and the lights to go off. I have heard you can put dummy sensors in.
My truck at idle sounds like it has aftermarket cams and the exhaust coming out of the tail pipe smells really rich. when driving down the road my heater controls default to defrost. Also when I fill up with gas it takes forever to get it to fill all the way. I am lost on where to begin with the problem [ I did check the tank vent hose and their is no blockage] Possible vacuum issue?
View 10 RepliesI have a '99 Passat with the 1.8T and auto trans. that does not always crank over, when you go to start it. Most of the time it cranks over and starts just fine, but there are times when you turn the key to the "start" position and nothing happens. Sometimes you have to turn the key back and forth a few times to get it to start and other times just holding the key in the "start" position for a few seconds and it will start.
I've checked the starter and every time that I applied 12 volts to the terminal 50 at the starter, it worked, but if I go back to start it with the key it goes back to random cranking. I removed the ignition switch and bench tested that with an ohmmeter and it works every time. Do I have something going on with the Starter Interlock Relay?
1999 F250 SD Ex 4x4 V10 has been intermittently not starting, both cold and warm, began last fall but only happened once a month or so or longer. Would then start after trying again either right away or after waiting a bit. Now it is doing it on a regular basis. Sometimes it will start right away, sometimes won't but if you keep trying or wait awhile it starts, sometimes using the extra key will start it right away after the first one didn't, sometimes neither one. It does not try to turn over, make any noises, no warning lights flashing, just won't start.
Now also on two occasions within the past week, it just stopped while driving. Radio, dash lights, etc., stayed on. I got it to the side of the road with the little power steering left where it started up again right away.
No codes showed up. First mechanic couldn't find anything obvious or replicate problem. Changed air and fuel filters (fuel filter really needed changed), plugs. Got truck back and it wouldn't start next morning. He checked it again and got a code related to ignition, tried the spare key and it started up. Truck back home, next day same problem.
Mechanic 2 checked, no codes, kept several days but, of course, couldn't replicate problem. I'm not even sure what all they checked, used to be an excellent repair place but now they seem to only really on diagnostics and throw up their hands, very disappointing. Replaced solenoid and starter last year myself. Otherwise, have had no problems until this.
I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 passat gls 1.8t with an intermittent ABS light code 1203. i cant find a description for it anywhere. Many passats are infamous for abs modules going bad but this is an intermittent problem that the code is not always set so I am trying to pin point it down.
View 1 Replies