Passat (B5) :: 1999 - Idle Rises And Drops Constantly When Hit Gas Pedal
Jul 30, 2011
I have a 1999 passat 1.8t and its having problems accelerating. When you hit the gas pedal the idle rises and drops constantly. What this is?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 passat 1.8t and its having problems accelerating. When you hit the gas pedal the idle rises and drops constantly. What this is?
View 3 Replies2010 F150 5.4V8... At altitudes 9000 ft and above the engine RPM rises and drops while at idle and while driving slow. It also burns more gas.
View 1 RepliesIf I dont constantly keep my foot on the gas pedal then my car will die.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a 99 f250 super duty with 6 speed and it has clutch problem the clutch pedal goes about 1/3 of way down then drops to the floor and stays. I pulled slave cylinder and it has just as much resistance as a new one. my other thought was a spring internally in transmission. any other thoughts or do I just need to replace the clutch?
View 2 Replies2004 ford f250 superduty v10, truck has a cold run miss, no matter the temp. (0deg. or 100 deg.) when i start truck it misses for about a mile or so until temp. rises, after that it runs fine all day even if i park it for a few hours,next day same thing. I have changed all 10 plugs, gas filter, air filter, cleaned mpf censer, throttle body. Also it shows no codes, and there are no codes in history.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 1999 1.8T Passat B5 about 10 months ago. The BRAKE and the ABS lights both were constantly on. The car also beeped at me everytime I turned it on. Obviously, the ABS control module was bad. Then, I bought an used ABS control module online, replaced it and the BRAKE light went off and the beeping stopped as well. The ABS light still stayed on.
Next I had the car scanned (VAGCOM). Below is what it reads. Both right front and rear ABS sensors were bad. I replaced them. The ABS light still stays on. I am wondering what this means:
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ECU
P1850 - 35-00 -
Is the replaced ABS control module still non functional?
Should I have the car scanned again and reset the light since I replaced both faulty wheel sensors? Is it obvious that the ABS control module still needs to be rebuilt?
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.4
Data version: 20110418
Tuesday,07,June,2011,18:29:06:63737
Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 35 36 37 46 47 55 56 57 58 75 76 77
[Code] ....
I have a 2001 Ford F250 V10 with about 70,000 miles on it and now the gauge indicates low pressure when my warmed up truck idles around 1000 RPM.
I went off road the other day into some mud and since then I have had my oil pressure gauge reporting low at idle and normal when moving.
I was a quart and 1/2 low on oil which I filled and the next day I changed the oil. I then had taken it Ford shop who replaced the oil sensor and said all fixed. It wasn't and I took it back in ... now the mechanic indicated it is probably the crankshaft bearing based on his experience and I should replace the engine.
This seems drastic? Wouldnt' the next step to go check/replace the oil pump?
I have a 2013 F550, v10. At idle, the oil pressure gauge drops and the red oil light comes on. If I hit the gas, the gauge pops back up. I swapped out the oil pressure switch. That didn't fix the problem.
I thought maybe the gauge was faulty, so I bought a 2 inch mechanical oil pressure gauge and hooked that up, leaving the factory gauge disconnected.
I watched the oil pressure start around 50 psi cold, and it slowly fell to 10-15 psi as it warmed up. The truck has 65k miles on it. There is no knocking, no ticking, no loss of performance.
I cannot imagine that at 65k miles, that it would be a worn engine. Right??
Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
99 passat with 160,000 miles. I am having a issue with my instrument cluster panel. RPM gauge keeps flickering and when i brake it drops all the way to zero. Also when i brake the oil light starts flashing. I had it in a shop and the guy said the oil was fine and that he though the cluster panel was bad. I got a new cluster panel and still same thing happens.
View 2 RepliesWe have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
Just got the 2010 passat two days ago. As you know, when you press the accelerator, the E brake releases. When i do this, the back of the car rises up just a bit as the brake hasnt fully released, but can this wear out the brake quicker, since im effectivly driving with the e brake half on for that half second. Im pretty sure it wont as I think it uses the rear disk brake for the E brake, but curious what others think.
View 13 RepliesI drive a 2006 Scion tC with 96000 mileage. The car has been getting a lot of problems lately.
1. P0741 torque converter engine light
2. Lost in power
3. Lost in MPG
4. Shakes a lot inside
5. Low Idle
6. engine shuts off on reverse and d mode
7. Noisy strange sounds
8. Gear slip around 2-3
9. RPM goes high at low speed.
I Replaced,Spark plugs, coil plugs, engine oil, coolant, steering fluid, brake fluid. I need to to replace the transmission fluid. I was told by a couple of shops to get a transmission rebuild....
I also read someones comment online: "It's your transmission. Your torque converter is bad. There is too much torque as a result. When your car is in neutral or park there is no torque being created. When you leave the in gear idle state, the torque is relieved. That is why the problem will go away when you hit the gas."
Drove the lady's car out on some errands today and ran into a problem on our drive home. Car was pinging really bad (low rpms in 1st and second) and car seemed as if it couldn't get out of its own way. Was driving for some time on the freeway (after a blistering 0-60 time of 20 seconds ), and noticed that the brake pedal was really spongy (felt like a mk1 when you try to brake with the car off). Found that the e-brake handle was up (negligibly up (perhaps 1mm raised)). Didn't have power brakes at all and had to use a lot of engine braking to slow the car off of the freeway.
Rear of the car smells like copper (wet pennies) and found that the brake reservoir is cracked (but fluid still at max level). Also noticed that as of late, when the car is at a stop (sometimes in gear, and sometimes in neutral) the car will rock/bump a little almost as if someone were giving it a bumper kiss with their car.
After replacing several front end suspension parts I noticed an issue with the brakes. The car stops fine and in a straight line but right before the car comes to a complete stop the brake pedal drops about 1/2inch and if I am not holding the wheel, I see it move to the right ever so slightly. It does it every time and I am thinking that a component was either damaged or is not installed correctly.
View 8 RepliesSo this has happened a few times pedal drops with no back pressure then give a bit pull it back up by hand and it's fine has happened 4 or so times in the last year. I'm reluctant to replace slave and master cylinders could it be anything else? 87 Ford F-150 hydraulic clutch
View 10 RepliesThis happens to me again on a very hot day. The symptom is: all of sudden, the brake pedal becomes stiff. I mean I can only depress down the pedal just a little bit. Then when I want to accelerate, the engine works very hard and speed picks up very slowly. RPM will shoot to 3000. When I remove my foot from the gas pedal, the speed drops very fast. The car slows down much sooner than usual. So my feeling is the brake is dragging the car. The dealer cannot duplicate the problem during short test drive. So what can be wrong? The brake booster was replaced a few months ago. Is it possible it provides too much boost?
View 17 RepliesI have a 2005 VW jetta 2.0 engine 5 speed. Just replaced right control arm spark plugs wires and coil pack. I had a misfire only when it rained and it got rid of it! Driving home in stop and go traffic and My car stalls out a hear a bang and my clutch pedal drops to the floor. I had noticed some fluid loss but nothing was low I checked everything before I left work. I finally get it towed but I can not shift to first I can shift to 2 3 4 5 and reverse. I was in first when it stalled out during stop and go traffic while it was in first gear and i had the clutch pressed in. Everything Ive google says it is more than likely the Slave cylinder that is right below the air box. I found some that said it could be the release bearing in the gearbox for the tranny...
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Ford Ranger 4x4 that developed an odd problem almost two years ago that no mechanic I've taken it to has been able to find and fix, and I and my more car-savvy friends haven't had any luck with either.
About maybe 50% of the time when I sharply turn left (only left, never right) the brake pedal goes "soft" and the vehicle's braking power drops dramatically (but not entirely). Because of the sharp angle required to make this happen, and the low speeds I have to be moving at to even handle that sharp of a turn with this vehicle, this has only ever happened when I pull into a parking spot, and the vehicle still manages to come to a complete stop safely before being in danger of hitting anything. It never ever happens at any other time, and brakes like a champ normally.
I've had numerous other issues with the brakes in this vehicle in the last two years, all of which I've fixed. This one eludes me and every mechanic I've taken it to, though. I've replaced both calipers, both rotors, the brake pads, bled all four brake lines, and had the ABS control unit and ABS motor replaced.
At the time the issue first appeared, I had two damaged calipers caused by shoddy brake pads disintegrating on me (almost new, barely worn, but covered in pockmarks, looked like a Michigan road) and clogging up the calipers. That caused the vehicle to lurch to a halt with screeching tires if I so much as barely tapped the brake pedal. Replacing the calipers and brake pads fixed that issue, but did not fix the soft pedal issue when turning left. I ended up with the same screeching sudden stop problem recently when the ABS module went bad, replacing it fixed that, the brake pads and calipers are still in good condition, and replacing the ABS did not fix the soft pedal issue.
Is it possible to have an intermittent injector problem I am having the same problem with my 2004. Its not all the time its rough only at idle constantly. If I keep the rpms up it doesn't do too bad...
View 1 RepliesWhen I turn the A/C on in my 1994 celica gt 2.2 engine the idle drops and will die,
View 4 Replies